Skywalker

Besides relearning your washing and drying technique, it is also possible not all of the swirls were removed the first time. If you detail with poor lighting or simply overhead lights that are not strong enough the finish can look perfect, but without halogens or high powered lights it is very hard to see the smallest of marring. After polishing and waxing it might be hard to see the swirls until the polishing oils and wax have disappeared.

I would do like the other guys said. For your personal process, I would use at least use it after FMP for the purpose of inspecting the paint and preparing the surface for Americana. Personally, I use it after each polishing step to ensure I got the correction I need before moving on to a finer polish.

Bingo. 2 different ways to get from point A to point B.

I kinda feel like I have to answer now, not because of you though. I actually viewed every one of the Junkmans videos before I started getting deeper into the world of detailing. That IS how I learned, but like he and many others have said, you also learn by putting the polisher in your hands and doing it yourself. I started reading all of the detailing websites, this one included, and found what (consensus said) to be the best polishes and pads and that is what I started with and have learned to do better with. I do support Adam and his mission, and I believe he got where he is because of his faith and beliefs. And I have no problem with Adam's products, but when you have a chance to try out hundreds of products side by side, one brand does not work the best (in my experience) in every area. And I certainly don't have to use every Adam's product to contribute to this forum. 90% of detailing is technique and not product, it just so happens that Adam's makes great products and some people choose to use them alone. I will continue to use some Adam's products as well as other detailing products made in the USA

No problem! And they were also 1 ounce exactly per pump. Not a bad idea to cap it either, I never thought of that...

I'm gonna get killed again for this, but I purchased a couple of 1 gallon pumps a couple of years ago (from United States Plastic) and have used them for 3 different car shampoos of different viscosities, a rinseless wash and All Purpose Cleaner. When you make your last pump about 1 drop might residually come out of the pump (darn gravity). If you have something small under it there should be nothing to worry about, especially with the Adam's brand who guarantees satisfaction.

Beautiful job! Did you seal them when you were done?

I use the detail spray, undercarriage spray, apc, svrt, interior cleaner, glass cleaner, waterless wash, but not the "polishes" themselves. Better?

Oops! I should have been more thorough with my question. Yes I am aware of the uses of detail spray, through the last few years I have used almost every brand in the [affordable] industry and tried every different polishing method. I honestly forgot that Adam's suggests misting the pad with DS to prime it, I don't use Adam's polishes and have different methods. With a DA or Flex polisher it works to just prime the pad with the product itself. Not saturating the pad [as that reduces the cut provided by the pad itself] but to create a lubricating barrier to avoid marring induced by dry buffing. Distilled water can be misted onto the pad or polish to extend the life of the polish and reduce dusting, but that would only be used if you needed either more working time or less dusting. My only suggestion to the OP is to wait for the DS spray to arrive or pick up some OTC Detail Spray. When it comes to priming a pad during polishing the brand of DS isn't incredibly relevant.

I'm kind of confused, why do you need detail spray after claying?

Looks great! Wetsanding definitely helps, but polishing alone does wonders.

On older "less frequently washed" vehicles, it is usually a pain to remove bugs from the finish once they have had time to sit. When I bought my car I decontaminated the bumper and I wash it as often as I need to, not allowing bugs and contamination the time to bond. Obviously protecting the paint is key to shedding dirt/bugs/debris/etc.

I'll add a picture or two here as well. I spent a week in Colorado with my fiancées family. We spent a considerable amount of time in the mountains and I merged some pictures with my P&S canon. Sorry the images are large, the original of the first image is about 62 megapixels And these are from the top floor of the Hyatt (I think?) hotel in downtown Denver.

You can get a perfect finish with a PC. You just need the right pads and polishes, but it may require expanding your horizons.

Same here I should say. They are not the best wash mitts, but they are cheap and I still feel they hold more water and allow more lubrication versus a traditional wool mitt. I guess I to need to be more careful as to what contamination lies on my paint and how well I pick it out during the wash routine.

These mitts seem to hold of lot of contamination compared to MF and Wool mitts, but they keep the soap and suds in the fibers better. After I dry my wash mitt, I brush/comb through it to ensure it is clean before I need to use it again.

It's scary how much this happens, but heck, professional detailers make a living off of these hacks.

Yessir! I also use a Detail Spray/Quick Detailer as a drying aid.

Not sure what you mean by eliminate the swirls, but it is cool how DS's will leave *something* behind that causes beading. The DS's that I use do the same thing which causes me to be careful in trusting how well my LSP is doing.

Any chance you can make one with a bend for better access behind wheel spokes? If I had one with a 90" bend it would be perfect for the barrels behind the spokes and behind the spokes themselves, etc.

I would look into a more durable LSP and use Buttery Wax as a topper. Although I haven't used it before, it seems like it would be more beneficial to lay down a layer of QS, MSW/S, Americana, etc before applying Buttery Wax.

I have been using the original Wheel Woolies [from another manufacturer] for a couple of years and have had great results. Assuming they are made similarly you will get thousands of uses out of them. Even with wheel cleaners they look like new after a couple of years.

I used it on my grill and it works awesome. I made it through a Michigan winter too. I don't usually dress it [as it matches the OEM plastic perfectly without dressing], but I did use SVRT on it with no issues.

I think I asked this in another thread too. My primary tire dressings that I use are all diluted and in spray form and I figured SVRT would be able to as well.

I hate badges on vehicles [unless it is subtle]. The day I got my car I began removing the badges I didn't like. I started with the emblem, model, and the stupid E85 sticker. And left the Avenger one. Something to watch out for is fading of the paint and having it "known" that there were badges present. Usually machine polishing and leveling of the paint in the area will disguise it. That holds very true for molding as well. A lot of moldings can leave stains or be faded [or the terrible bubbling paint problem]. That is why removing moldings sooner is often better. I use a stoners product for the removal of tar and rubber. The rubber literally falls of, but the use of an APC and IPA works as well.