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egott_91

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Everything posted by egott_91

  1. Both, MF and foam. MF for cut, foam to finish down.
  2. In my experience, the Adams MF pads teamed up with the Rupes 21 cut really fast. It does tend to create quite a bit of heat in the process too. If this is the only machine you have, you'll have a difficult time correcting smaller panels as the throw is just that much more significant. Like Joseph mentioned, the PC with a 4" backing plate or the Cyclo, are awesome compliments to the Rupes. I personally have all 3, which isn't necessary for a novice, but I seem to always run into a situation where I need one of the 3.
  3. AIO product?! That's the only thing I can think of where you'd need to inflict swirl damage. I think the PCP and PFP are set and sticking around for a little while, so shouldn't be any new formulas to those.
  4. Depending on how long they've been on there, they could require some elbow grease while claying. If repeated claying doesn't remove them, they might be etched, which could be reduced/corrected with machine polishing.
  5. Claying is the most effective. If you soak them with waterless wash before the wash it'll help soften them up so that they're somewhat easier to remove. If, however, you plan on claying, don't waste the waterless wash in the first place. Just my opinion though. More cost effective.
  6. ^^ not a yellow fan on cars, but I love '69 Camaros.
  7. I think the GNX will be on that level.
  8. The new Regal GS's are pretty nice. Other than those, I'm not a big Buick fan. Rumor has it there will be a GN and GNX coming out in the next couple of years.
  9. Great to see that it didn't need to be repainted! Looking forward to the video!
  10. 1991 Camaro Z28. Bought used in 2007. 1998 Camaro SS. Bought used in 2009. 2005 Colorado. Bought used from my grandma after my grandpa passed in 2010. I've also "used" a 2002 Durango R/T and a 1988 Fiero GT as my own vehicles (Fiero was my step-dads before I bought my '91 and the Durango was my dads (after buying it from my step-dad) that I drove in the winter)
  11. Welcome! It might be tedious and seem like a PITA to begin with, but the results are so rewarding! Last year during the 4th sale was when I picked up my Cyclo as well! Enjoy!
  12. Looks good. And it's about freaking time for a dedicated bug and tar remover! I've only been wanting you guys to produce one for the past 3 years! Now, when will it be available? Lol.
  13. Looks good. I'm afraid of single stage paint. My dad's nova has single stage paint and there are so many defects I want to remove, but I'm not sure how thick the paint is. I attempted to polish a section with the Cyclo and PFP and just did not feel comfortable at all.
  14. Like others have mentioned, polishing will make it less noticeable, especially if you use a 4" focus pad with a drill. However, it might be too deep that it either needs wetsanded or repainted.
  15. Hmmm. There's one in town that is its twin then.
  16. Wow! 3 awesome cars. Is it a real Cobra R or a replica?
  17. Get a free photobucket account, upload it to there, copy the IMG code and then paste it in your post on here!
  18. I've seen the '55 in town a few times I believe.
  19. Nice! The revive in that order isn't beneficial, however, if you moved it to after the machine polish before the sealant, that would be beneficial as it's a cleaner polish so it would remove the oils left from the other polishes. I prefer using revive over doing an IPA wipedown like some do. Although, I don't use it everytime.
  20. I don't believe anything from Adams can be used to protect/seal it. As far as cleaning, take soapy water and with a horse hair brush (in other words, the Adams leather brush) massage the top.
  21. Take a cheap towel, spray some APC on it and scrub the tire with the towel.
  22. You quoted the first one out of context. He was referring to SVRT with that comment and the new Tire Shine in the second comment.
  23. Could be that it's extremely soft paint. I remember there being a post a little while back and the person was dealing with extremely soft paint and they actually had to use a black pad with FMP to finish down, I believe.
  24. Looks good! I want the label on the BG! However, isn't it supposed to be seal --> glaze --> wax? If you apply the glaze to the PFP residue wouldn't the sealant not want to adhere to the glaze, rendering it basically a wasted step and product since glaze doesn't last long...
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