AmyAtAdamsAustralia

Great concept! However I'm not too fond of any wash or dry medium "on a steeeek" when cleaning paint and here's why... By constructing something like what is pictured it essentially become a lever and the physics of a lever is to exert a magnified output force from a smaller input force. A lever is the simplest machine that has two material parts and two working components such as a beam or solid rod, a fulcrum or pivot point, an input force (or effort in this case) and an output force. Think of when you have to pry a nail out of a board using a crowbar. Little force input is given for a magnified resistance force to lift the nail. By using a wash wedge or mitt that is extended on a pole, the force exerted at the output end (wash wedge) has the potential to be greater than the input (force from your arms and hands). Without factoring in that your own shoulders, elbows and wrists are levers within themselves, a wash wedge stick may cause extra and unnecessary "grinding" of the paint increasing the odds of inducing swirls. On the other hand it will indeed save you bending to wash the lower parts of doors and rocker panels, I get that completely, but if you're like me, that's the last place I want swirls and scratches as I don't wan't to have to lay down on the floor later on wrestling a Flex Polisher to get them out.

Awesome!!!

Adam! Thank goodness! We did raise potential issues with the pump on first launch, having said that any possibility to have some sent our way with our latest order? Thanks for your support and continuing to trim the fat and making detailing awesome.

Hi Ryan, Welcome to the club/forum/addiction. By the sounds of your post you sound like you're split in thought. If I were you I would recommend that you clean and seal your car until the chips and deep scratches are repaired. Once you are certain no more work is going to be done to the car and won't be visiting any workshops, go ahead on the full detail. Doing a full detail now will be beneficial for you in regards to getting to know the products, the system and your cars response but if you're like me. Having a near perfect car with chips and scratches will drive me more crazy as it doesn't really "blend". From now till Nov-Dec H20 Guard and Gloss, or any of our waxes will keep you well protected with regular maintenance washing. Hope that helps

I have a reverse way of thinking, where usually I use a towel according to the surface. Double Soft/Single Soft/ Waffle MF- paint only Edgeless- engine, wheels, door jambs All Purpose MF- metal polishing Glass MF- glass (naturally) At the end of the day you want to use a towel that will get the job done in as little time as possible while remaining safe.

Paul, you are definitely the forums medic! Nice find, completely forgot about this thread. Some funny posts when reading them fresh.

It's difficult to imagine what results you're looking at without photos. How are you priming the pad? Also are you having difficulty flashing the polish on a test spot or is this later in the detailing process? Keep in mind Swirl & Haze remover was designed a developed when Adam's didn't stock MF pads, so it is no surprise that it works really well with the Foam pads. I'm sure we can get it working for you but more insight into your priming process and quantity of polish used is needed. Or you can sacrifice the S&H and pull the trigger on some PCP, no fuss with MF there. I have some S&H left and I'm more than happy to test some processes out for you and report back on what works if you are still keen on using S&H

Hey Joe, Loved the video! It captured the whole atmosphere of the lead up and the event. It was great to see behind the scenes of the dedication you guys put into these events.

Hi Chris, I had a quick search and I believe the video you're referring to is the comparison of the Gen4 pads. When it comes down to defining which pad is "better" it will depend on the job at hand and the level of defects/damage on the paint. I personally prefer having a few of the microfibre and foam in my detailing arsenal as the damage on paint is never completely identical. Usually a good rule of thumb is to start with the least aggressive method possible first i.e White Foam with Finishing Polish and see where that gets you. If you need more correction you can step it up to a Microfibre cutting pad and Paint Correcting Polish. For our mobile detailing side of the business here in Australia, I'm finding the orange microfibre cutting pad with PCP followed by the white foam pad with PFP yields great results correcting 85-90% of defects. Usually I think of it this way. Correction= microfibre, and Refinement/Glossing = foam. At the end of it all it is a case by case basis. As long as you perform a test spot with the least aggressive combo the paint will let you know what it needs. On a side note, we use the Flex, Rupes 21, Cyclo and PC on different occassions but the polish/pad combo usually stays the same. Varying the type of polisher changes the speed and aggressivness of the pass. I hope that helps you.

Second what Chris has said above, tape of hard lines and edges.

Really a big fan of the wet application method.

It is a bummer when the weather sets in, especially when you detail as a business. I try not to let it affect it too much and take pop up shelter when needed.

Hi Howard, Welcome to the Forums, I'm sure you'll find a lot of tips and tricks on here along the way. Your process looks pretty good as a foundation and since your paint is in good condition it doesn't sound like it will take that much effort to get you back to a nice gloss and shine. This is my personal opinion; I would change the initial wash to a strip wash with CS and APC mix and place another strip wash after the revive polish step. At this second wash step the strip wash will remove the oils from the revive and give you naked paint to follow on with HGG. Be sure to rinse thoroughly or even foam with ph neutral car shampoo to knock down the APC before rinsing. Once it is thoroughly rinsed you are all set to apply HGG. I would probably hold off on the glazing and waxing step until the next day to allow the most time for HGG to settle, however what suits me may not suit you. Regarding the fear of paint correction by machine- Firstly, be sure to invest in a Dual Action polisher like the Porter Cable or Cyclo for starters. These machines have a fairly small learning curve. Secondly, go out to your local smash repairer and see if you can score a test panel that isn't too bent out of shape. Then proceed to go to town on that test panel to get a feel for the machine and the technique. If you can score a horizontal panel and a vertical panel you're winning. This will give you a feel for different handling techniques and how to handle body lines and contours before you even touch your vehicle. Hope that's helpful. Post up some pictures when you're done.

Phil, Not sure if this may help you but I use a 4 litre hand sprayer (garden variety) filled with distilled water to combat any dust/dirt/pollen which may settle during the drying phase of a rinseless wash. I find it to be good insurance on windy/dusty days or even working in basements and carparks of apartment complexes where running water is distant. Joseph

Phil how was your lighting? Did you have a swirl finder or halogens nearby? This helps a ton when trying to find progress of correction on midtoned paints. Also I've found success with the Cyclo and foam pads by placing an X as you did but further spreading the product around with my hand on the face of the pad (detailing gloves are handy here). This will ensure that most of the pad that touches the paint has polish as an interface. Placing an X then proceeding to use a couple of drops for half a hood is quite a bit of product, try to step it back a notch and reactivate dry polish on the pad with a spray of Detail Spray. Lastly, cannot stress the importance of a test panel. Work a smaller section and see the results. You may have to work in smaller sections throughout the car or step up to orange foam (or MF) with PCP to achieve a faster level of cut before the final polish. Smaller sections will also prevent drying as the section is always being worked as opposed to half a hood at a time. Hope this helps.

Go for it! Knock down any unwanted sheen with a clean applicator.

Like most have already said an hourly rate should cover you. Another method is to charge a dollar amount per foot. You should also factor in travel time of a total of 4 hours, that should be factored into your quote. No need to itemize it, just incorporate it into your rate.

Hi All, Sunday the 1st of March was the Cruzin' Rods and Customs show which supports not only a great variety of cars but also the National Breast Cancer Foundation. We joined the show this year to support a great cause and help car enthusiasts discover their shine potential. Enjoy the photos.

Hi All, We have pulled the trigger and made a limited run on premium die cut window stickers. We are shipping free internationally if 2 or more stickers are purchased. Have your ride looking clean and displaying Adam's in spring! They can be purchased right here www.adamspolishes.net.au (made in Australia)

Ryan with all things detailing always try the least aggressive method first. With the trim try a light polish with Revive Hand Polish. If that doesn't get you there you can try machine polishing with Revive or Paint Finishing Polish. These sections of the car don't really need that much more unless really hammered. Regarding the dent/white mark- looks to me you have some paint transfer, again taking the same approach above, try either a light clay with detail spray followed by Revive Hand Polish. This should improve the area. Unfortunately we don't have any product in our range that fixes dents, however it will be less noticeable

Avoid, avoid, avoid unless its for windows.

Oh really! Have fun testing some more.

Nicely done!

You're most welcome! Anytime! Thanks for the opportunity to make it shine like factory new.