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Detailed: 2010 Honda Accord


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This one was actually a family favor for my brother. His girlfriends car was in need of some attention and I was able to free a day up this weekend to take on the car. Also gave me an opportunity to play with some new toys we're working on.

 

The car arrived in what I'd call average shape, with some more severe damage here and there. Since I wasn't going for outright perfection I decided I was going to do 2 passes of correction, sealant, glaze, wax. To maximize results and address some of the deeper damage without having to go to a separate machine I broke out the Flex PE 14-2 150 rotary.

 

TOTAL TIME: 6h 15m

 

INTERIOR:

  • Vacuumed using Adam's Shop Vac Pro
  • Carpets/Seats cleaned with Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner + Carpet Brush
  • Matts were removed and extracted with Bissel LGM
  • All interior panels cleaned with Adam's Leather & Interior Cleaner + Interior Brush
  • All interior panels conditioned with Adam's Leather & Interior Conditioner + Red Foam Interior Applicator
  • Interior glass cleaned w/ Adam's Glass Cleaner and Glass Towels

 

WHEELS/TIRES:

  • Tires were cleaned 2x w/ full strength APC and Fender Brush
  • Wheels were cleaned w/ 1:1 APC and Wheel Brush

 

ENGINE BAY:

  • Light hosing w/ Adam's Ultimate Fire Hose Nozzle on broad fan setting
  • Sprayed with full strength APC and allowed to dwell
  • Scrubbed with Boars Hair Brush
  • Broad fan spray on hose to rinse
  • Blaster Sidekick / Waterless Wash / Waterless Wash towels to dry
  • Dressed w/ Super VRT & In & Outs Spray

 

 

EXTERIOR:

  • Strip wash with APC + Car Wash Soap mixture / 2 bucket wash
  • Clayed wet with Adam's Clay + Detail Spray
  • Rewashed with APC + Car Wash Soap mixture / 2 bucket wash
  • Dryed w/ Great White Drying Towel + Metro Blaster Sidekick
  • 1 pass Swirl & Haze Remover + Prototype Orange Pad via Flex PE 14-2 rotary
  • 1 pass Fine Machine Polish + Prototype White Pad via Flex PE 14-2 rotary
  • Removed residue with single soft towels
  • Paint wiped with 70% IPA to remove polishing oils
  • Prototype Adam's "Quick Sealant" applied to all paintwork and wheels
  • Removed with Single Soft towel
  • Brilliant Glaze applied w/ Gray Pad + Porter Cable 7424xp
  • Removed with Single Soft towel
  • Americana Paste Wax applied
  • Remove with Double Soft towel
  • Post application wipe down with Waterless Wash to discharge static buildup
  • Adam's Glass Sealant applied to all exterior glass
  • Trim dressed w/ Adam's Super VRT / In & Out Spray
  • Exhaust tip polished w/ 0000 steel wool + Adam's Metal Polish #1
  • Finished with microfiber applicator + Adam's Metal Polish #2

 

 

BEFORE:

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This thing was definitely in need of clay:

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Polishing complete, but not sealant/glaze/wax yet:

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AFTER:

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Even got my reflection shot in silver!

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The turnaround on the exhaust really impressed me:

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Thanks for looking. I have a couple of vids I need to touchup first that show the sealant in action, but I'll upload those later.

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dylan whats the trick to getting the lines in carpet so straight. your using a brush and they come out that straight ?

 

Using a Carpet Cleaner it's easy, just alternate the pulling the nozzle towards you, then push away from you. If you use just a brush, same theory.

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About 3oz APC + 1-2oz Car Wash seems to be the sweet spot. Lathers up really well, pulls wax from the finish, and even helps degrease the trim if its gotten any silicone junk on it.

 

Gotcha, thanks. I'm going to strip wash the RS soon since I just got the PC kit and all the Adam's pads. I was curious what would be the best ratio and that answers my question!

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WHEELS/TIRES:

  • Wheels were cleaned w/ 1:1 APC and Wheel Brush

So why not the Green Wheel Cleaner?

 

 

 

 

EXTERIOR:

  • Strip wash with APC + Car Wash Soap mixture / 2 bucket wash
  • Clayed wet with Adam's Clay + Detail Spray
  • Rewashed with APC + Car Wash Soap mixture / 2 bucket wash
  • Paint wiped with 70% IPA to remove polishing oils
  • Post application wipe down with Waterless Wash to discharge static buildup

 

I noticed all of the washings were shampoo+APC, never just shampoo. When would you choose a mix over straight shampoo?

 

What's the benefit of the IPA wipe down after polishing? If the oils aren't removed, what's the effect?

 

First time I've heard of the WW washdown for static. Is this common? This is to repel dust I suppose?

 

 

Great writeup! Very clear and informational. Thanks! :2thumbs:

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I noticed all of the washings were shampoo+APC, never just shampoo. When would you choose a mix over straight shampoo?

 

:2thumbs:

 

I'm sure you would rather have Dylans answer, but....

 

The Car Shampoo is PH Nuetral, so it doesn't cut alot of the grit and grime on abused paint. On well maintained paint, your fine. So if your going to do a full paint correction like Dylan did, you want to add a cleaner into the mix to advance the PH. This will ensure your working with a totally clean surface before/after claying and before polishing.

 

Browsing 3 or 4 detailing forums, I've discovered most use 1 of 3 ways to accomplish this:

 

1. IPA Wipedown

2. Dawn Wash

3. Dilluted APC Mixture

 

I think the 3rd is what I'm going to go with also.

 

I also bought some Iron Cut that I will add after the APC wash and before the clay.

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So why not the Green Wheel Cleaner?

 

There wasn't a lot of brake dust, but she had run thru a freshly paved street and some tar/slurry had gotten onto the wheel face. APC is much better for stuff like that GWC is better suited to brake dust clean up.

 

 

I noticed all of the washings were shampoo+APC, never just shampoo. When would you choose a mix over straight shampoo?

 

When the car already has wax or some protection on the finish that you don't want to diminish. Pretty much anytime you're not doing a full detail you should be using only soap. Since this car was going to be fully corrected I washed twice w/ the APC/CWS mix to be absolutely positive the paint was bare when I went to polishing.

 

What's the benefit of the IPA wipe down after polishing? If the oils aren't removed, what's the effect?

 

Just gives you a 100% clean look at the paint. Polishing oils can sometimes hide imperfections... I just wanted to see how far I had gotten with 2 straight rotary passes and nothing else.

 

First time I've heard of the WW washdown for static. Is this common? This is to repel dust I suppose?

 

Its mentioned occasionally. Rubbing on a car with pads and towels builds up a charge... sometimes its very noticeable and this was one of those times. I could feel the static on the car. To knock the charge off WW works really well.

 

Great writeup! Very clear and informational. Thanks! :2thumbs:

 

No problem. Glad you enjoyed.

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Yeah, I mini-detailed my wife's A4 today finally with my Adam's shampoo (poured out the little bit of remaining Gold Class).

I'll post a writeup on Monday. My freakin' laptop won't recognize my camera so I can't import pics. Grrrr.

 

Anyway....., the paint is not corrected yet, but not in awful shape. I foamed the car and then prepared my two buckets, all with Car Shampoo only. I used two 9x9 Adam's wash pads, one for the top and the other below the rub strips.

It really didn't seem to cut much. I had to go back and use APC quite a bit to clean up below the rub strips, particularly below the doors.

Since I wasn't polishing or waxing, I didn't want to strip everything. I guess until I get the paint corrected and sealed, I shouldn't expect much.

 

The A4 paint correction is next in line after the A8 is done. I have a ways to go on the 8 still. I must be the slowest detailer ever. :loser:

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Hey dylan, great job. But i gotta ask, how the heck did you do all that in 6h15m................i;ve been detailing cars for family friends and randoms all summer and time is always my issue. i can never complete both interior and exterior in one day. I usually tell ppl paint correction takes me the day alone, and i'm not using a pc. when i do happen to tackle both, i'm usually 12-14 hours into a car. You are lighting fast lol......................can i buy some of that speed from adams!!

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Hey dylan, great job. But i gotta ask, how the heck did you do all that in 6h15m................i;ve been detailing cars for family friends and randoms all summer and time is always my issue. i can never complete both interior and exterior in one day. I usually tell ppl paint correction takes me the day alone, and i'm not using a pc. when i do happen to tackle both, i'm usually 12-14 hours into a car. You are lighting fast lol......................can i buy some of that speed from adams!!

 

two words: rotary polisher

 

Cuts the time down for correction a ton, BUT it also increases the risk of damage 10x if you don't know what your doing with it. That said, even if this were a job done w/ the 3401 I'd probably have the whole thing done in 9-10 hours. I've been doing this for 14+ years now... I've got lots of practice so I should be fast :D

 

Does the new Flex take the same pads as the current Flex?

What are your thoughts on it (Flex rotary)?

 

I was using some prototype pads, but it could use the current ones. The PE 14-2 is the nicest rotary I've ever used. Runs really smooth, is really light, and feels really well built. I've used it a few times already and I know my makita and dewalt will probably never see the light of day again.

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Fonda ain't got Shine like that in the back of her Honda!

 

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Great work Dylan!

 

Mook

 

Seriously? Sir Mix-A-Lot reference? That is priceless! :lol::lol::lol:

 

 

DYLAN.. Im getting kinda tired of telling you great work.. Could you please post a SCREW UP once in awhile? Be nice to know your a man not a machine! :lolsmack:

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Hey Dylan would you consider the Bissel to really aid in the cleaning process? In Adam's carpet cleaner demonstration video he gets great results just by using microfiber towels and the carpet brush. Does the Bissel help get even better results? Or is it simply a time cutting tool?

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