Color Sanding...

[JerseyGator]

I'm detailing a new Shelby and have read on TeamShelby forum about folks that color-Sand the new vehicles to get a show car finish.

 

Recently I got a new paint job on my car and have some orange peel and some imperfections (sand or hairs in the clear) and have been researching this topic.

 

What are your opinions and thoughts on this topic?

 

I have never heard about it here on AF.

[billawd]

The orange peel is from the painting process and as I understand has to be worked out during the painting not after

[Tim]

I have heard about the same thing, but there is no way I'd do it myself.

[JerseyGator]

The orange peel is from the painting process and as I understand has to be worked out during the painting not after

 

Not necessarily. It is in most new cars and can be corrected via color sanding. You just need the chutzpah to do it.

[JerseyGator]

I have heard about the same thing, but there is no way I'd do it myself.

 

I'm kinda with you on this... I'd like to start on a beater and then do my Shelby. This guy's video's on youtube make it seem sooooo easy.

 

Part 1

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57Hd9FO_Kew]Part 1 Color Sanding & Buffing - YouTube[/ame]

Part 2

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7jOpRlXk2M]Part 2 Color sanding and Buffing - YouTube[/ame]

Part 3

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsYkMSjZb08&feature=plcp]Part 3 Color Sanding & Buffing - YouTube[/ame]

[02Xtreme07ss]

Orange peel is a result of the painting process and in most cases it is unavoidable. Some paint systems will lay flatter than others, but in most cases, there will be some degree of peel. To remove orange peel, you must abrade away the high areas of the paint to level it with the low areas of the paint. Color/wet sanding will level the surface of the paint. The sooner it is done, sometimes before the clear has fully hardened or per the paint system mfg recommendations, the faster and easier the paint will level. However, color/wet sanding can be done any time after the paint is fully cured as well.

 

The problem with factory paint is that it is extremely thin, applied by machine in exacting amounts. Obviously the idea is to use as little product to achieve the highest level of finish. That doesn't leave us enthusiasts with much to work with in terms of sanding. If you are going to wet sand or color sand, your best friend will be a quality paint thickness meter and common sense.

 

In the case of a custom repaint (and some repairs), the painter (a human) has less control over how much clear per coat he is spraying. He is a human after all and not metering the paint like a machine. He may also deliberately spray additional coats of clear to achieve the desired thickness required to thoroughly cut and buff the paint. In an instance like this, there is usually enough additional clear to allow for color/wet sanding, compounding, and polishing. There is still a risk of sanding too much clear off and breaking through to the base coat, but there is a higher margin for error due to the heavier and/or additional coats of clear. I would still however recommend having a quality paint thickness meter available to keep you out of trouble.

 

Bottom line, color/wet sanding a factory paint job can be extremely risky and will require the utmost care to avoid any costly errors. I hope this helps a little.

[JerseyGator]

Orange peel is a result of the painting process and in most cases it is unavoidable. Some paint systems will lay flatter than others, but in most cases, there will be some degree of peel. To remove orange peel, you must abrade away the high areas of the paint to level it with the low areas of the paint. Color/wet sanding will level the surface of the paint. The sooner it is done, sometimes before the clear has fully hardened or per the paint system mfg recommendations, the faster and easier the paint will level. However, color/wet sanding can be done any time after the paint is fully cured as well.

 

The problem with factory paint is that it is extremely thin, applied by machine in exacting amounts. Obviously the idea is to use as little product to achieve the highest level of finish. That doesn't leave us enthusiasts with much to work with in terms of sanding. If you are going to wet sand or color sand, your best friend will be a quality paint thickness meter and common sense.

 

In the case of a custom repaint (and some repairs), the painter (a human) has less control over how much clear per coat he is spraying. He is a human after all and not metering the paint like a machine. He may also deliberately spray additional coats of clear to achieve the desired thickness required to thoroughly cut and buff the paint. In an instance like this, there is usually enough additional clear to allow for color/wet sanding, compounding, and polishing. There is still a risk of sanding too much clear off and breaking through to the base coat, but there is a higher margin for error due to the heavier and/or additional coats of clear. I would still however recommend having a quality paint thickness meter available to keep you out of trouble.

 

Bottom line, color/wet sanding a factory paint job can be extremely risky and will require the utmost care to avoid any costly errors. I hope this helps a little.

 

Thanks... I hear you loud and clear.

[mc2hill]

Yes, it takes a large pair to do this to your car the first time! I have played with 3000 grit and removed the sanding marks with SHR on the PC. A junker car or even just a panel would be a good place to start.

 

Rots of ruck Pete!

[The Ryan]

I have done spot color sanding on my personal vehicles, but never more than just a spot to remove a deep scratch in the clear. Doing a whole panel or car for that matter with a factory paint job is pretty risky. Wet sanding at all is pretty risky, I defintely would not take on that kind of project with a paint thickness guage. Without knowing how close you are to the base coat it can be pretty easy to 'strike through' the clear.

[THE Mook]

Orange peel is a result of the painting process and in most cases it is unavoidable. Some paint systems will lay flatter than others, but in most cases, there will be some degree of peel. To remove orange peel, you must abrade away the high areas of the paint to level it with the low areas of the paint. Color/wet sanding will level the surface of the paint. The sooner it is done, sometimes before the clear has fully hardened or per the paint system mfg recommendations, the faster and easier the paint will level. However, color/wet sanding can be done any time after the paint is fully cured as well.

 

The problem with factory paint is that it is extremely thin, applied by machine in exacting amounts. Obviously the idea is to use as little product to achieve the highest level of finish. That doesn't leave us enthusiasts with much to work with in terms of sanding. If you are going to wet sand or color sand, your best friend will be a quality paint thickness meter and common sense.

 

In the case of a custom repaint (and some repairs), the painter (a human) has less control over how much clear per coat he is spraying. He is a human after all and not metering the paint like a machine. He may also deliberately spray additional coats of clear to achieve the desired thickness required to thoroughly cut and buff the paint. In an instance like this, there is usually enough additional clear to allow for color/wet sanding, compounding, and polishing. There is still a risk of sanding too much clear off and breaking through to the base coat, but there is a higher margin for error due to the heavier and/or additional coats of clear. I would still however recommend having a quality paint thickness meter available to keep you out of trouble.

 

Bottom line, color/wet sanding a factory paint job can be extremely risky and will require the utmost care to avoid any costly errors. I hope this helps a little.

 

 

Very well said Jim.

[BRZN]

Sand or Hairs in the paint? They'd have sunk too deeply into the paint while it was still wet to be able to sand out without removing the clear.

 

I've wet sanded, or color sanded all of out current vehicles; from just a spot, to work out a deep scratch to entire panels. I also spot sand customers cars since it's much quicker than polishing out individual scratches that are deep. How do I know if they are deep enough to be through the clear? I don't, some are just minimized: experience, a guess, good luck and whoops are all part of the learning curve.

 

As others have suggested start with a beater to get the feel of it.

[JerseyGator]

Sand or Hairs in the paint? They'd have sunk too deeply into the paint while it was still wet to be able to sand out without removing the clear.

 

I've wet sanded, or color sanded all of out current vehicles; from just a spot, to work out a deep scratch to entire panels. I also spot sand customers cars since it's much quicker than polishing out individual scratches that are deep. How do I know if they are deep enough to be through the clear? I don't, some are just minimized: experience, a guess, good luck and whoops are all part of the learning curve.

 

As others have suggested start with a beater to get the feel of it.

 

I took the leap! Using 3000 grit paper and watched Junkman's video.

 

Started on my wife's van. First I worked on individual minor scratches. Then I started doing entire panels that were scratched. It made polishing much easier.

 

I even took the leap tonight and sanded Dave's single stage '67. Turned out like glass. Only had my cell phone. Will post pics when I can.

[07RS4]

Sweet, can't wait to see your results Peter!

[txredgt]

Any results from this bud? I have some 03-04 Cobra mirrors that I am considering selling that i think would benefit from a wetsand to get some of the minor defects out and allow me to maximize profits from them. Interested to hear any tips or suggestions as well in the process. All you used was 3000 grit?

[JerseyGator]

Here's a before pic of the trunk of the 67 after using 3000 grit sand paper.

 

 

 

After... Those lines are the corrugated roof on the garage.

 

 

 

Passenger door sanded...

 

 

After...

 

 

 

[THE Mook]

That's nice! Looks great!

[JerseyGator]

Thanks... Chris.

[02Xtreme07ss]

Nice improvement!

[Bluezey]

WTG Peter.

Looks good!