scratches help

[RLucky82]

Im having trouble removing these scratches , i resulted to wet sanding but created different scratches of lesser value using, 1500, 2000 then 3000 grit followed by green, orange, white Adams polish. Is M105 more aggressive then Adam's green?

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks

[Captain Awesome]

are you using PC or FLEX?

[RLucky82]

PC

[Blue04SSS]

Do u have the 4" focus pads? I can still see what looks like wet sanding marks in the first pic. If u have the 4" focus pads it will make shorter work of removing those marks, if not it might take a couple passes to get those marks out. Not sure on the m105 i never used meqs stuff.

[RLucky82]

No I do not. Looks like I will be getting some

[Chris@Adams]

Randy, Does your finger nail catch in the scratch? If so you won't be able to remove them completely....

[Blue04SSS]

Good point chris. I was more refering to the sanding marks. But chris is right. If your nail catches the scratch most likely it is too deep to remove without damaging the paint

[camaro2ssblack]

Yes try 105, it is much more aggressive than Adams

[tony97gt]

Go least aggressive and get the focus pads and use a few passes with ssr. I had a similar issue and it worked for me. Just keep an eye on the temp of the panel and if it gets too hot back off and let it cool down.

[BRZN]

OP, I wet sand scratches with 1500, 2000, 2500 and finish with 3000. You have to make sure each step in progression removes the previous grits marks or they'll remain. The Green pad with SSR on the Flex will completely and quickly remove 3000 grit sanding marks. The PC will remove them with the Green pad and SSR; just takes a bit longer. I then just follow up with the Orange pad/SHR and White pad/FMP. I'll save the courser compounds for use on oxidized paint.

 

Check out this post I threw up on a thread earlier this morning:

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/358080-post4.htm

 

As Chris stated above, if your nail catches in the scratch you may not be able to completely remove it as it might be through the clear and into the base color. From the below picture you can see where I had to call it quits. The first shows scratches too deep to contine sanding and the second shows cracked clear; neither of these could be completely removed without further damage.

Edited January 14, 2013 by BRZN

[RLucky82]

As far as the fingernail catching , I'm not sure cuz I hit it a few times with severe swirl remover before I learned of that test, thinking I may have rounded the edges my nail does not catch. So its hard to tell.

 

Thanks BRZN it sounds like I need a flex or a rotary?!?

 

This is what I did today

 

 

After hand sanding to 3000 grit and polishing with m105 on a 3" orange pad on a drill (cuz that's all I have on hand) I could still see sanding marks. So i went back to 3000 on the PC speed 4 - 3.5" backplate. then repeated m105 and things look a heck of alot better. I can still see some 3000 hand marks but its at a point of "good enough". Then went severe, swirl, polish.

 

Cellphone pics,

In this pick you can see where I stopped polishing on the second rafter in the reflection from the right and on the far left was not sanded.

 

The fender on the right was sanded and polished as stated above. The hood was only polished.

 

That process takes way too long. I need to get from 2000 to severe swirlremover much faster.

 

Thanks everyone for the input

Edited January 15, 2013 by RLucky82