Some Problems with Paint Correcting/Finishing Polish

[ticaaal70]

Used the Paint Correcting and Finishing Polish with the new microfiber pads for the first time.

 

Pleased with the results.

 

However, it took me literally 30-45 mins to remove the residue. I did the whole car before I removed it like I used to do in the previous 3 step system and in high heat area.

 

I thought it was just because it was really hot that day. 

 

So I give it a go on a cool day in a shaded area. I did a huge SUV this time.

 

However same results, still took A LONG TIME to remove. It was this time much longer about an hours worth for each Polish. 

 

I also tried removing the Polish right after each section. Nope still completely difficult to remove.

 

Almost forgot to mention that I pretty much have to force the residue off. 

 

Is my product defective or is it just me? I honestly never had this problem with the previous 3 step system (Swirl Haze Remove, Severe, etc...)

 

Please give me some insight. I have always been a fan of Adams Products and I did not want to leave negative feedback.

 

Thank You and sorry for the long story.

[JHL88]

Did you actually feel how hot the surface of the paint was before using the polish?  How long did you work the polish? 

[b_pappy]

I'm not sure I'm clear, you did an SUV in an hour? Or did each panel take an hour?

It seems like sense you have used the old system you woulfd be familiar with teh process, so I'm not sure what is causing your issue. I can say I have been using the new system for a while and have no issues.

A few more details, and pictures would help, What machine are you using, PC, Flex, Cyclo?

Is the product too thick? Use less

Is the product too oily? Work it longer

Is the product just subborn? Try a little Detail Spray

We'll get you through it.

[Ricky Bobby]

After you work a section and the product has flashed at the end of the buffing cycle, it should be easy to wipe clean any residue.

 

If you're overworking the product it could dry pretty tough and be tougher to remove.  However I wouldn't leave polish residue on the car and then try to remove all at the end, you're not removing wax/sealant residue.

 

A spritz of Detail Spray or Waterless would help you when wiping down after each step of polishing as well.  How much product do you use per pass?  If your pad is primed properly, you only need about 2-3 pea sized drops per section pass, assuming you are using PC/Griots and 7" pads.

 

If using Cyclo and each pad is primed, prob only 2 pea sized dots per section pass at most on each pad.

[ticaaal70]

Did you actually feel how hot the surface of the paint was before using the polish?  How long did you work the polish?

It was pretty hot, probably in the low 90s that day. I worked it enough to see it flash. Then I just move onto the next section

 

 

I'm not sure I'm clear, you did an SUV in an hour? Or did each panel take an hour?

It seems like sense you have used the old system you woulfd be familiar with teh process, so I'm not sure what is causing your issue. I can say I have been using the new system for a while and have no issues.

A few more details, and pictures would help, What machine are you using, PC, Flex, Cyclo?

Is the product too thick? Use less

Is the product too oily? Work it longer

Is the product just subborn? Try a little Detail Spray

We'll get you through it.

 

 

Oh no sorry I did this post last night after a long day at work

 

But the SUV took me roughly 6-7 Hours to do. It took about an hour to remove the Polish Residue is what I meant to say. >.<

 

I don't have any photos but I am using a Porter Cable. Hmm I have been using the new Microfiber pads and it seems like the product is too thick after the process is complete. I tried using less and it was still hard to remove.

 

I have also been using the conditioner after 2 sections or so. Could it be I am using too much product? I used about a x sized line when first priming. Then after that I used about 2-4 pea sized dots for each panal.

 

 

After you work a section and the product has flashed at the end of the buffing cycle, it should be easy to wipe clean any residue.

 

If you're overworking the product it could dry pretty tough and be tougher to remove.  However I wouldn't leave polish residue on the car and then try to remove all at the end, you're not removing wax/sealant residue.

 

A spritz of Detail Spray or Waterless would help you when wiping down after each step of polishing as well.  How much product do you use per pass?  If your pad is primed properly, you only need about 2-3 pea sized drops per section pass, assuming you are using PC/Griots and 7" pads.

 

If using Cyclo and each pad is primed, prob only 2 pea sized dots per section pass at most on each pad.

Could be that I have been overworking the product. So I should just remove the polish right after each panal instead of leaving it towards the end?

 

Hmm I may be using too much product then. I am using 7" pad and a PC.

 

I'll try the detail spray trick and see if that helps.

 

I am going to be working on a Truck this up coming week and I was wanting to see what advice I could get to reduce the time of removal.

[ticaaal70]

But it just seems wierd how with the previous system I would leave the polish all till the end and removal all instead of by section with ease.

[Thorsager]

Maybe try a smaller section and then remove. What type of microfibers are you using to remove the polish?

[mc2hill]

A couple more questions:

• are you cleaning the MF pads after each section pass?
• Have you tried misting the 'dried' polish with DS, WW, or distilled water?

I have used the PCP and the MF pads in all different conditions, but usually remove after each section.  I like to review my work, just to be sure an additional pass is not needed.  

[Chris@Adams]

You can leave the PCP residue on and go over it with PFP then when its time to remove the FP residue put a coat of BG right over the residue and when you wipe it off it will come off super easy and you will reap the benefits of BG.

[Ricky Bobby]

Make sure to brush out that pad after each section.

[Team Adam's]

Good discussion here, and plenty of good tips.

Sounds like three possible factors to me:

• Heat/humidity working against you
• Very likely overworking the polish, making removal difficult
• MF pads are a different animal than foam and need to be cleaned out with section. Do you have foam pads as well?  Did this happen with foam pads also?

[GXPaycheck]

Try using a brush and compressed air to clean out the MF pads.

Edited June 9, 2014 by GXPaycheck