LFairbanks Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Will you come do mine next? TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 FALL DETAIL, PART 2 Seal, Seal, Seal The second afternoon session included the following steps: Sealing all the glass Sealing the trim, graphics, and running boards Sealing the paint Products for today: Glass Sealant, Quick Sealant, Liquid Paint Sealant, Glass Cleaner. Tools for today: Cyclo Model 5-Pro Polisher, Microfiber Applicator Pads, Foam Applicators, Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel, Borderless Gray Towel, Double Soft Towel. Sealed the glass by applying the Glass Sealant with the Microfiber Applicator Pad. To start, I applied a line of the sealant along the narrow edge of the pad, then wiped it onto the glass, going horizontally first, then vertically second, to make sure no areas were missed. I applied the sealant to all the exterior windows and side mirrors, then went back and removed the haze and residue with the Glass Cleaner and Glass Cleaning Towel. I used a couple towels, to make sure I was using a clean portion of the towel on each window. Next up was the Quick Sealant on all the plastic and rubber trim. For areas like the air vents, I sprayed the product onto the surface and also a little onto the foam applicator, then leveled everything out with the applicator. I then removed any overspray on the adjacent paint with the Borderless Gray Towel, before moving to the next area. Do not let the product dry without leveling it with the foam applicator or wiping it off with the towel. I also used the Quick Sealant on the vinyl graphics, applying with the foam applicator and wiping with the towel. For the rest of the trim and plastics (window trim, door handles, bed rail caps, bumper pads), I sprayed the product onto the applicator, spread it onto the area, and then wiped with the towel before moving to the next area. I then finished by applying the Quick Sealant to the running boards. For each of these areas, I started on the upper areas, and then worked to the lower areas, to make sure the applicator did not pick up any contamination. To seal the paint, I first applied the Liquid Paint Sealant by hand with the foam applicator to all the panel edges and around the trim and emblems. This helps prevent getting the sealant onto these adjacent surfaces with the machine. Then, using the Cyclo polisher and the gray foam pads, I applied the Liquid Paint Sealant to all the painted areas. I started with an X of product on each pad, then added a few spots of product for each additional panel. Using the machine polisher allows the product to be spread nice and thin, and also makes reaching the roof and hood easier. The Cyclo is so smooth, you can run it with just a few fingers holding the end of the grip. The Liquid Paint Sealant can be applied to the whole truck before wiping any residue. Unlike a wax, it is actually a little easier to remove the residue once it has dried for a while. To remove the residue, I used the Double Soft Towel, switching to a clean towel surface for each panel. Dan@Adams, Mongosg8 and SgtLip 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 SEALED AND PROTECTED Shiny, Shiny, Shiny SgtLip, Dan@Adams, zapdon and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 THOUGHTS AND COMMENTS Details, Details, Details Not everyone is going to take the time to do some of the extra steps, and not every vehicle may warrant the extra time spent. I will include some of my reasons and thoughts for the way I have chosen to accomplish the detailing, while trying to eliminate or minimize any potential damage to the paint. Even though this truck is a daily driver, I want to keep the paint in good shape, and only do paint correction in the spring. Any time that I am going to apply a product to the paint with a machine or even by hand, I always want to make sure the surfaces are super-clean. A stray bit of dirt hiding out in a crack or along some trim can get picked up in the applicator or towel, and cause scratches in the paint. A good rinse after the wash and before claying is important. Washing with the wedge or a pad does not remove all the dirt, most just gets loosened up and is encapsulated by the lubricants in the shampoo. This means there is still dirt on the vehicle, so rinsing all this away before claying also prevents scratches. Using Detail Spray on a wet vehicle requires a good deal more product to prevent water spots while you are working, and also to provide adequate lubrication to the clay bar, since the water remaining on the surfaces dilutes the Detail Spray. If you are looking to save some product, do a quick dry and then use just enough Detail Spray to lubricate the surface. After claying, I use a rinse then a strip wash to remove the residue. The clay bar is not magic, it does not remove all of the contaminates from the surface. A good portion of the bonded contaminates will stick to the clay bar, but some and possibly a lot can just get knocked loose by the clay and remain on the surface. If you then removed the residue with a towel, these containments could possibly scratch the paint. With a machine, any loose contaminates on the surface can get into the pad and cause a lot of damage. For me, a quick rinse and wash is cheap insurance, and takes much less time than polishing out damage to the paint. This is also why I waited until the second wash to clean the nooks and crannies with the Trim Brush, since the clay residue is going to get into these areas and leave some contaminates. For the sealing, I did the glass first to make it easier to remove any overspray or other products. I sealed the trim and other plastics next, to ensure that any accidental bumps from the Liquid Paint Sealant did not result in staining. Since Quick Sealant has been discontinued, if you don't have any you could use Super VRT to protect the trim and plastics. Since the Super VRT only provides short-term protection, add some longer lasting protection to these surfaces with the H2O Guard & Gloss after a few washes. All of the sealants will bond better to clean paint, so making sure the surfaces are free of any residue from claying and any polishing will provide more longevity to the protection. Make every effort to keep the Liquid Paint Sealant off the trim and plastics. Being a darker product, it may not be very noticeable at first, but after a few weeks any residue will dry out and become much lighter in color. Same is true for the edges of vinyl. While this product can be applied to gloss vinyl (do not use on matte vinyl), do not allow the product to build up on the edges, as it will eventually dry out and look bad. If you are going to use it on gloss vinyl, apply by hand and wipe on and wipe off in the same direction of the edge, rather than back and forth across the edge, to reduce build-up. Mongosg8, rkj4243, SgtLip and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkj4243 Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Dan, Excellent write-up and details! I spend most of the day in my garage, getting my Corvette ready for winter hibernation using a very similar process. I am just going to finish it off with a coat of Patriot Wax over the Liquid Paint Sealant before I place the cover on, as the wax will offer a little additional protection from any potential damage due to being covered. TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirahnah3 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Thanks for the writeup! I just spent a fair amount of time doing alot of this myself. Dan is certainly correct in what he days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blcksilv08 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Great write up, I always enjoy reading through these. You have the most well protected Raptor anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 Will you come do mine next? Yes. Dan, Excellent write-up and details! I spend most of the day in my garage, getting my Corvette ready for winter hibernation using a very similar process. I am just going to finish it off with a coat of Patriot Wax over the Liquid Paint Sealant before I place the cover on, as the wax will offer a little additional protection from any potential damage due to being covered. Thanks Robert! I love the PW over the LPS, but that's a spring-thing for me! Thanks for the writeup! I just spent a fair amount of time doing alot of this myself. Dan is certainly correct in what he days. Thanks Jim! I tend to go to the extreme on some things, but I am definately not trying to say this is the only "correct" way to detail. People have different methods and do what works for them, the vehicle, and the time required. My intent was just to provide my thoughts on why I did the steps that I did. Truth be told, I have been known to take a shorter approach to the wife's Jeep, because its not worthy! Great write up, I always enjoy reading through these. You have the most well protected Raptor anywhere. Thanks Eric! A shiny Raptor is a happy Raptor! SgtLip, pirahnah3 and blcksilv08 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirahnah3 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 People have different methods and do what works for them, the vehicle, and the time required. My intent was just to provide my thoughts on why I did the steps that I did. Truth be told, I have been known to take a shorter approach to the wife's Jeep, because its not worthy! Different methods are what are so great about these products you can do it a bunch of different ways and still get the same great result. LOL about the jeep. TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFairbanks Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) So reading post #7 here. And Dan's humorous comments in this thread and on the Forum have me convinced that he has a night time job. Thanks for the chuckles, Sir. Edited November 30, 2015 by LFairbanks TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 So reading post #7 here. And Dan's humorous comments in this thread and on the Forum have me convinced that he has a night time job. images.jpeg Thanks for the chuckles, Sir. Hahahaha...this forum stuff is my night job, no time for standup! But, adding some humor makes everything more fun, even my day job. Thanks Chris! Dan@Adams and LFairbanks 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFairbanks Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 If more people laughed and tried to see the humor in everyday life, this world would be a better place. Dan@Adams, stripesace and TheWolf 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirahnah3 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 I agree we all need a good laugh. I am getting close to putting seat covers in my truck due to the amount of time I have passengers that have to dust off to get in. I was at the mechanics dropping her off for a plow install and they asked if they should try to wash her after they were done, I think the look on my face told them everything lol. TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 FALL DETAIL, PART 3 Scrub, Scrub, Scrub The third afternoon session included the following steps on the wheels and tires: Pressure wash wheels, tires and suspension components Wash the wheels and scrub the wells Remove the wheels from the truck Wash the wheel barrels Scrub the tires, back and front Clean the brake calipers and shocks Products for today: Car Wash Shampoo, All Purpose Cleaner Tools for today: Adam’s Pressurized Spray Bottle, Kwazar Venus Sprayer with foaming tip, Fender Brush, Wheel Brush, Lug Nut Brush, Wheel Woolie, Microfiber Waterless Wash Towel, pressure washer, undercarriage lance. Started by pressure washing the wheels, tires, wells, and suspension components with the angled undercarriage lance. Washed the wheels first using Car Wash Shampoo with the Wheel Brush, Lug Nut Brush, and the Wheel Woolie. After the wheels were cleaned, I sprayed the wheel wells with All Purpose Cleaner. Using the Fender Brush, scrubbed the wells and all the suspension components that I could reach. Once the wheels and wells were scrubbed and rinsed, I then washed the entire truck. After drying, I pulled the truck into the garage and put it on jack stands to remove all four wheels. With the wheels out on the driveway, I scrubbed the barrels on the wheels and also the backs of the tires with All Purpose Cleaner and the Fender Brush. Note that I had cardboard under the wheels to prevent the front of the tires from getting scuffed on the driveway. After rinsing the backs, I flipped the wheels over to scrub the fronts of the tires. The Kwazar Venus Sprayer with the foaming tip adds some suds to the All Purpose Cleaner. Rinsed the wheels good with the pressure washer, making sure the fronts and backs were free of suds. Moved the wheels into the garage and dried them front and back with the Waterless Wash Towel. With the wheels off, I was then able to scrub the brake calipers with some All Purpose Cleaner. With a plastic bin underneath, used the Adam’s Pressurized Spray Bottle to rinse them clean, and also wiped down the rear shocks with a damp towel to remove any overspray. Left everything to dry overnight. SgtLip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 FALL DETAIL, PART 4 Seal, Seal, Shine The fourth afternoon session included the following steps on the wheels and tires: Liquid Paint Sealant on the fender flares Liquid Paint Sealant on the barrels of the wheels Tire Shine on the backs of the tires Quick Sealant on the plastic wheel wells, shocks, and mud flaps Remount wheels on truck Quick Sealant on the fronts of the wheels Tire Shine on the fronts of the tires Products for today: Liquid Paint Sealant, Quick Sealant, Tire Shine Tools for today: Single Soft Towel, Utility Towel, Foam Applicators, Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator. Started by applying the Liquid Paint Sealant to the faces of the fender flairs with the foam applicator. After applying to the faces of all four flares, went back and applied to the underside of the flare. Doing all the faces first prevents picking up some dirt from the underside and scratching the face that gets seen. Applied the Liquid Paint Sealant to the barrels and backs of the wheels with the same applicator. The sealant is to protect the barrels of the wheels from salt and deicers. Again, working from cleanest or most visible surfaces to the dirtier or not visible surfaces prevents damage. For example, do not do the barrels first, where the applicator could pick up dirt or brake dust that might be hiding out which would then scratch the faces of the flares if you did them afterward. To seal up the plastic well liners to make it easier to clean off the winter gunk, I applied Quick Sealant by spraying directly on the plastic and then leveling it out with a new foam applicator. Also applied the Quick Sealant to the plastic mud flaps. A coat of Quick Sealant on the shocks, leveled with the Utility Towel. Removed the residue from the Liquid Paint Sealant with the Single Soft Towel, ding the four flare faces first, then wiping the flare undersides. Used the Utility Towel to remove the residue from the barrels and backs of the wheels, then remounted the wheels on the truck. To protect the faces of the wheels, a coat of Quick Sealant sprayed onto the wheel. Then immediately wiped with a clean Utility Towel to level the product before moving to the next wheel. Finally, some Tire Shine applied to the tires by spraying into the tread block, then spreading it and working it in with the Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator. If you do not have any Quick Sealant (it has been discontinued), use H20 Guard & Gloss instead by applying it using the “wet method” shown in the demo video. SgtLip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 SEALED AND PROTECTED Shiny, Shiny, Shiny zapdon and SgtLip 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 THOUGHTS AND COMMENTS Details, Details, Details The angled undercarriage lance for the pressure washer makes cleaning the backs of the wheels, tires, suspension and undercarriage much easier. Having the wheels off makes cleaning up any road paint much easier. A plastic razor blade works good on smooth plastic. The foam applicators end up dirty, despite all the scrubbing. I don’t think it is worth the time to try and clean them, so I just toss them in the trash. Spraying the Tire Shine on the tire does result in some overspray on the wheel. With a fresh coat of sealant on the wheel, the overspray wipes right off. Applying the Tire Shine to the back of the tire is not really for appearance. Rather, it seals up the rubber so that it does not get mud stains, and also makes it easier to clean the mud off. Having two floor jacks makes it much easier to get this truck up and onto the jack stands. I don’t like crawling under the truck when it is on the jacks to get the stands out (Craftsman jacks ain’t what they use to be), so I use a magnet with a handle to pull the stands out. mc2hill and SgtLip 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirahnah3 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Great way to pull the jack stands, I have never liked climbing under and pulling them out. Great writeups all around. TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkj4243 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Awesome write-up Dan! Anyone who really wants to learn the "how to's and why's" of cleaning and detailing could read any of the posts you make, and be well on their way to complete understanding how to make any of their own vehicles as good as it possibly can be! TheWolf and mc2hill 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlainOleS5 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Wow! Loved the write up!!!! Truck is looking amazing! TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cweidert03 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 What are your thoughts on use Liquid Paint Sealant instead of Quick sealant on the wheels. I know it will take a lot of time to apply and remove the film. I would assume that LPS will last longer than Quick sealant. TheWolf, CG3141 and pirahnah3 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirahnah3 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 What are your thoughts on use Liquid Paint Sealant instead of Quick sealant on the wheels. I know it will take a lot of time to apply and remove the film. I would assume that LPS will last longer than Quick sealant. I do this on my clear coated rims on my F250, works great. I have to thank the folks here for the idea on it after reading threads on the QS being discontinued. Easy to apply and works great. TheWolf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 What are your thoughts on use Liquid Paint Sealant instead of Quick sealant on the wheels. I know it will take a lot of time to apply and remove the film. I would assume that LPS will last longer than Quick sealant. Absolutely! LPS will last longer, and I almost used it instead of QS, but these wheels would require some extra time in application and removal of the LPS due to all the bolt heads on the bead ring. Once my can of QS is done, I will take the extra time to apply LPS to the wheels twice a year, then use HGG once a month to keep the sealant protection strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NG13 Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Dan, I have read portions of this thread here and there but I just took the time (3-4 evenings!) to read it from start to finish. Needless to say, I am even more blown away by your passion for all this than I was before. That will be a nice one owner truck for someone to get when you upgrade. As others posted here in the past, I appreciate being able to reference you when trying to explain to my wife how I'm not as crazy as some people. Dan@Adams, TheWolf and SgtLip 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Dan, I have read portions of this thread here and there but I just took the time (3-4 evenings!) to read it from start to finish. Needless to say, I am even more blown away by your passion for all this than I was before. That will be a nice one owner truck for someone to get when you upgrade. As others posted here in the past, I appreciate being able to reference you when trying to explain to my wife how I'm not as crazy as some people. Thanks Nick! NG13 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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