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Adamized the Raptor


TheWolf

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  • 4 weeks later...

I made a wheel shield to keep Tire Shine overspray off the wheel.  With the sidewall tread blocks on these truck tires, I have to spray the Tire Shine to get coverage, and then level it out with the Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator.  No matter how carefully I spray the product, there is always a little overspray on the wheel which has to be wiped off.  With this shield, I can spray and then use the applicator to get the portion of the tire behind the shield.

 

I made the shield out off a lightweight plastic planter saucer and a plastic handle.  To attach the handle, I used some screw posts and plastic screw head covers.

 

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The shield is about 1" bigger all around the wheel, but since the TS has to be spread evenly with the applicator, I can spread product onto the portion of the tire behind the shield with the applicator.

 

And yes, the tire is dirty...been nothing but cold and snow for the last month.

 

Here's some links to the parts on Amazon.  I got the screw posts and covers from the hardware store.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQ62E5S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VBT5CA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

 

Both the plant saucers and handles come in different sizes.  I ordered the plant saucer that I though would be a good fit for my wheel, and once I had it, I measured the distance between the flat ribs to match the correct size handle.

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Incredible write up! I learned a lot even though I have only read through page 5 haha.  I have it bookmarked to finish reading later though; I am working on compiling all the information I need so that I can put it all in one place for my use while detailing my truck.

Edited by James__
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  • 2 weeks later...

Can plastic staining from liquid paint sealant be removed?

Yes it can. I have had good results with IPA and a MF towel. If the trim is textured plastic, you will need to use a small brush like a stiff toothbrush to get into the texture. Just make sure to tape off the paint adjacent to the trim so you don't scratch it with the brush. Any IPA that gets on the paint will strip off the sealant, so reapply as needed.

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  • 1 month later...

Get Up in Your GRILL

 

Many of you may have found that cleaning the grill can be challenging, and dirt and/or stains often remain after washing because the grill pattern or fins are difficult to clean with just a wash pad.

 

With a little extra time a few special tools, the intricacies of the grill can look just as good as the rest of the vehicle.

 

The condition of the grill after a week of driving and a few rainy days.

 

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To start, a good pressure washing to get most of the loose dirt blasted off.

 

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Since it is not possible to reach all the visible areas from the outside, I started by raising the hood and cleaning the back side of the grill.

 

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Soaked everything with a Rinseless Wash dilution using the Venus Foamer.  I also added a few ounces of Car Wash Shampoo to the mix to give it some foam, which provides some cling time for scrubbing.

 

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Using the Long Handled Wheel Brush, scrubbed everything I could reach.

 

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While the hood was up, I used the Trim & Lug Nut Brush to clean the portions of the bumper and headlights that are inaccessible with the hood closed.

 

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Closed the hood, then soaked the grill again with the same mixture.

 

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Scrubbed the whole grill with the Trim & Lug Nut Brush, paying attention to the nooks and crannies.

 

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To address some of the tighter areas that the brush does not completely clean, I used a foam detailing swab to scrub each little opening in the grill.

 

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After scrubbing just one row, the swab had picked up a bit of dirt that the brush had missed.

 

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Into the bucket-o-suds for a rinse.

 

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Then finished out the entire grill a row at a time, rinsing the swab after each row.

 

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A final rinse with the pressure washer.

 

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Used the Master Blaster Revolution to blow most of the water off.

 

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To finish, I partially raised the hood and used a microfiber towel that was damp with Waterless Wash to wipe any remaining areas that still showed any dirt.

 

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Shiny grill...

 

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...looks better than new!

 

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GAUGE CLUSTER POLISHING

 

Not really sure why I waited so long to fix the scratches on the gauge cluster cover.  Most of them were there when the truck was new, and a few were added when I made the mistake of vacuuming the sand off with a less-than-soft brush attachment.

 

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Tools for the task: Paint Finishing Polish, Brilliant Glaze, Single Soft Towels, blue painter’s tape.

 

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Started by taping off the adjacent plastic, to keep the polish from getting on it.  Taping was easy since you can slide the tape behind the edge of the plastic, then wrap it around the front.

 

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Put a small amount of Paint Finishing Polish on the Single Soft Towel.

 

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Then polished by hand with just the portion of the towel that has polish on it.  I wrapped the rest of the towel around my hand to keep it from catching on the tape.

 

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After polishing for about 15 minutes, I wiped the residue off with a clean portion of the towel, then checked with a strong light to make sure all the major scratches were gone.

 

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I did see some minor scratches on the back of the cluster cover, but they are not that noticeable.

 

Next up was some Brilliant Glaze applied with a clean Single Soft Towel.  The Brilliant Glaze contains fillers, so it will help hide any scratches that did not come out with the hand polishing.

 

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After the glaze hazed up, wiped the residue with a clean portion of the towel.

 

A significant improvement!

 

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