Here we GO! Cyclo! And Question

[PT3]

Ok guys... so after seeing how easy it was to apply Patriot  and the results recently, it made want to give paint correction a try.

 

So, I thought I'd first monitor the Garage Sale section for a couple weeks to see if one popped up.

 

Well, timing is EVERYTHING.  I picked up a LIGHTLY used Cyclo, with pads and correction and finishing polishes for a VERY fair deal.

 

Here's my questions... to minimize clean-up, what do I need to tape off?  

 

I have an area in the pillar that goes into the rook where it's a VERY small (10cm?) wide strip of rubber.  What do I do with that?  

Do I tape off the panel seems/gaps?  Won't that cover a strip of paint that I won't hit with the cyclo?...that would then not look the same since it won't be corrected?

 

[Beemer]

In my opinion it's hard to answer that question. You'll learn what you need to tape off and what you don't as you gain experience.

 

For me - I tape off vinyl stripes, badges and some trim.  I don't tape panel gaps and seams as I find it easier to clean them out afterwords.

 

It's a trade off - taping everything takes a lot of time whereas if you tape nothing you have more cleanup after polishing.

 

Just give it a try and see what works for you.

[PT3]

In my opinion it's hard to answer that question. You'll learn what you need to tape off and what you don't as you gain experience.

 

For me - I tape off vinyl stripes, badges and some trim.  I don't tape panel gaps and seams as I find it easier to clean them out afterwords.

 

It's a trade off - taping everything takes a lot of time whereas if you tape nothing you have more cleanup after polishing.

 

Just give it a try and see what works for you.

 

fair points... thanks Red!

[Feets31]

I taped over the seams that would be hard to clean.  I barely tape over the edge where I am polishing and then switch the tape when I do the other side.  I don't bother with door and hood, truck seam.  Just the stuff I know I am going to be looking for a stiff piece of something I can use to fish the polish out of that won't scratch the car. 

Edited April 27, 2015 by Feets31

[PT3]

I taped over the seams that would be hard to clean.  I barely tape over the edge where I am polishing and then switch the tape when I do the other side.  I don't bother with door and hood, truck seam.  Just the stuff I know I am going to be looking for a stiff piece of something I can use to fish the polish out of that won't scratch the car.

 

Thanks Jim!

[mc2hill]

I tape emblems, vinyl trim, and window & sunroof weather stripping - anything that can tear or dirty my pads,  

As for panel seams, I start polishing the farthest point from the gap and work towards it, so the excess polish is on the paint and in the pad by the time I get to the seam.  I taped the seams the first few times I polished before learning this technique.  

[rkj4243]

If you follow the steps of applying VRT to all the rubber trim first, should eliminate or reduce the need to tape, as long as you are careful with how close you actually get to the edge of it.

 

Cyclo is super easy to use and control, so take your time and pay attention to the little details, and you should be fine!

 

PS: A lot of great tips in the replies above too!

Edited April 28, 2015 by rkj4243

[Ricky Bobby]

Phil have fun with the Cyclo man I'm sure it will do you well.

 

I personally usually just skip taping and dress my trim prior to polishing, and spend a bit more time after polishing and before applying LSP to clean up any dust from between panels and to reapply VRT to trim if needed.

[PT3]

Phil have fun with the Cyclo man I'm sure it will do you well.

I personally usually just skip taping and dress my trim prior to polishing, and spend a bit more time after polishing and before applying LSP to clean up any dust from between panels and to reapply VRT to trim if needed.

How do you dress the real small rubber around the windows (for example) without getting VRT all over the window / body panels???

[redneck08sierra]

it's hard not to get it on the window but if you do, just wipe it off

[Ricky Bobby]

^^This.  Or In and Out Spray or a sprayable version of VRT, whatever you prefer.

 

I'd rather have a bit of VRT smear on the body/windows etc and if i'm polishing over it I'm wiping down the area afterwards anyway, before LSP.

 

So less redundancy that way if that makes sense (I.E. dress and wipedown all streaks, then polish and wipedown all residue etc, thats 2 wipedowns, I'd rather do 1)

[PT3]

^^This.  Or In and Out Spray or a sprayable version of VRT, whatever you prefer.

 

I'd rather have a bit of VRT smear on the body/windows etc and if i'm polishing over it I'm wiping down the area afterwards anyway, before LSP.

 

So less redundancy that way if that makes sense (I.E. dress and wipedown all streaks, then polish and wipedown all residue etc, thats 2 wipedowns, I'd rather do 1)

 

got it.  thanks!

[2quikta]

How do you dress the real small rubber around the windows (for example) without getting VRT all over the window / body panels???

Buy one of the block sponges. They're cheap and have lots of uses! I cut a small cube or a corner off and use that to apply vrt to thin molding/trim areas.

[Chris@Adams]

How do you dress the real small rubber around the windows (for example) without getting VRT all over the window / body panels???

If you do get SVRT on your glass or paint it won't hurt a thing......it will wipe off.

[PT3]

Buy one of the block sponges. They're cheap and have lots of uses! I cut a small cube or a corner off and use that to apply vrt to thin molding/trim areas.

  

If you do get SVRT on your glass or paint it won't hurt a thing......it will wipe off.

Thanks guys!