Advice on product layering on new car

[oski83]

Hi guys and girls!

 

Been reading and watching videos for Adams products and would like to expand my arsenal and try more of them. As of now I've tried the new glass cleaner formula and there's simply not enough GREAT things I can say about it! I'm absolutely in shock every time I use it after so many years of trying others.

 

So my questions/concerns are....I've done a paint correction back in May on my new 2015 WRX to correct some overspray and swirls from the dealer, factory, etc. At the time, I had applied a competitor sealent which seemed to work great for about a month. After which I started noticing beading had diminished to almost nothing and I had begun to even get water spots from simply rain on a clean car. Fast forward to light polishing to clean it up, and a light coat of wax couple months ago, I'd like to get something on it soon. I think the wax has thinned out and sealent is not "sealing" as it should IMO.

 

Im now really interested in trying out HGG but had some questions regarding the application or products to layer. I'd like to try it along with Adams sealent, followed by Adams glaze and then a wax. Maybe it's overkill but I'd really like to add some protection on my new car for the upcoming fall/winter as it will sit outside 24/7.

 

Should I apply HGG, then Adams sealant, then glaze (for filling in any very minor imperfections) and then wax? Or can i apply glaze for said purpose then sealent and wax? Is all this overkill?

 

Thanks for the input. Any advice is appreciated!

[marquez93]

Do a strip wash first or wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any old protection that might still be there. Then do the sealant first, 1 or 2 coats. Then you can maintain it with the HGG. The glaze or wax isn't really necessary if you're using the other 2 products. But you can use them if you would like to add some extra shine. Not too many people on this forum would accuse anyone of overkill.

[rwisejr]

I personally use seal with The Adam's Sealant then top with HGG every other wash . If I top with anything else I use the Americana.

[Chris@Adams]

If you apply a coat of LPS and like mentioned every couple washes apply HGG you will have plenty protection. Now as far as for looks if your car is a dark color, let's say black or even red you would benefit from a top coat of BG and Americana. Post up pics when done & don't forget to go to the site and do some reviews. ????

[oski83]

Thanks guys!

I'm thinking a wipe down on IPA should work as I know there isn't too much layered product down from what I can see.

I'd like to try Adams Brilliant Glaze to maybe fill in the <5% of imperfections, if any, and finishing with a wax for extra pop at the very end.

 

Could I glaze prior to sealing?

 

Once sealed using HGG would be great too so long as I can add some wax over it?

Edited August 18, 2015 by oski83

[Performance Auto Detailing]

Is your car is silver? You shouldn't even really be able to see the last ~5% of imperfections in the paint if so. Sealant should always be the first layer of protection on your paint, allowing the sealant to bond to bare paint gives you the best durability. If you want to use glaze, apply it after the sealant. It will only last a couple of weeks but if you also through a coat of wax on top of it then it pretty much lasts as long as the wax does. 

 

My recommendation: Strip wash the car and do a thorough IPA wipe down. Seal the car with Adam's Liquid Paint Sealant and then maintain every couple of washes with HGG. I personally don't use waxes or glazes on any of my vehicles or my customer's vehicles. 

Edited August 18, 2015 by lax

[oski83]

Yup car is silver....and you're right on the "noticeable" micro swirls to the average person. I just know they are there since I did a thorough inspection recently under lighting.

Thank you for the tips and advice. I'll try doing an IPA wipe down, then sealent, followed by glaze and topped off with a nice wax. That should last me until old man winter sets in here in NJ around November/December. Or at least until it's too cold to maintain in my driveway! Hopefully I can sneek in a few HGG washes afterwards to get me through until spring.

[seattlelife22]

What does Isopropyl really do? I am assuming it's safe but does it get all the waxes,sealent off?

[rwisejr]

Its used mainly to prep the surface after polishing. It removes any residual oils from the polish. This way the sealant or wax has a clean surface in which to bond.

Edited August 19, 2015 by rwisejr

[Ricky Bobby]

Yes it does.  You don't need it full strength you can cut the 70% IPA 50:50 with distilled water

[TheBurninator]

Yes it does.  You don't need it full strength you can cut the 70% IPA 50:50 with distilled water

Add an oz of D114 and it isn't grabby anymore.

[Ricky Bobby]

^I actually use 1/4 oz of another rinseless, non wax additive product to achieve the same results in a 16 oz mix but yes I'm with you there

Edited August 19, 2015 by Ricky Bobby

[seattlelife22]

This is pretty much rubbing alcohol right? Whats d114?

I haven't been on in awhile and my mind is blown.

[Ricky Bobby]

If you google it D114 is not a product sold by Adams and is not rubbing alcohol.

 

We are talking about a way to make an IPA wipe using approx 60-65% water, 30-35% IPA, and about 2-5% of a rinseless type product (Adams has some wax in it so I might not recommend it) or a product with some sort of "lubricity", which would keep the IPA wipe from being "grabby".  All the pros know what I'm talking about.

 

Probably the best product to add a bit to the IPA concoction out of Adam's line is the RTU Waterless Wash since it has no wax and just lubricating polymers.

[TheBurninator]

If you google it D114 is not a product sold by Adams and is not rubbing alcohol.

 

We are talking about a way to make an IPA wipe using approx 60-65% water, 30-35% IPA, and about 2-5% of a rinseless type product (Adams has some wax in it so I might not recommend it) or a product with some sort of "lubricity", which would keep the IPA wipe from being "grabby".  All the pros know what I'm talking about.

 

Probably the best product to add a bit to the IPA concoction out of Adam's line is the RTU Waterless Wash since it has no wax and just lubricating polymers.

 

WW would work well for this... a TINY TINY bit of Car Wash Shampoo would also work to add lubricity.

[oski83]

Thanks for all the info and tips guys! I just did the "baggy" test and wow! Despite the paint 'looking' flawless, shiny and sparkling (ice silver metallic paint), it definitely needs to be clayed. Luckily I had on my recent order placed a new Adams Blue clay bar. As far as lube, I do have detail spray and a small bottle of ONR I might be using first before placing an order for D114

 

Once I clay is it absolutely necessary to do an IPA wipe down to remove any residual LSP? I'm assuming YES?

 

Also, I'm debating on products to use and protect the front grills on my car. Top grill is an imported grill from Japan as they come in the Japanese Subaru WRX. It's a basic grill with a glossy finish that looks like some kind of dipped metal grill finished in like a powder coat with a piano black surrounding frame.

 

Bottom grill is a stock black non-textured plastic grill.

 

Would Quick Sealant in spray work once cleaned properly? I'd like to protect them from road grime and help in removing bug splatter etc. I'd prefer to stay away from a spray VRT type to avoid any product running down the bumper. Knocking down VRT in the lower grill is almost impossible as it has a thickness. Grill is almost 1/2" deep and knocking down every little bee hive opening after every wash is a PITA!

Thanks again for any advice!

[Beemer]

Have you tried In&Out Spray on that lower black, plastic grill?  It would be just the ticket...

[TheBurninator]

Thanks for all the info and tips guys! I just did the "baggy" test and wow! Despite the paint 'looking' flawless, shiny and sparkling (ice silver metallic paint), it definitely needs to be clayed. Luckily I had on my recent order placed a new Adams Blue clay bar. As far as lube, I do have detail spray and a small bottle of ONR I might be using first before placing an order for D114

 

Once I clay is it absolutely necessary to do an IPA wipe down to remove any residual LSP? I'm assuming YES?

 

Also, I'm debating on products to use and protect the front grills on my car. Top grill is an imported grill from Japan as they come in the Japanese Subaru WRX. It's a basic grill with a glossy finish that looks like some kind of dipped metal grill finished in like a powder coat with a piano black surrounding frame.

 

Bottom grill is a stock black non-textured plastic grill.

 

Would Quick Sealant in spray work once cleaned properly? I'd like to protect them from road grime and help in removing bug splatter etc. I'd prefer to stay away from a spray VRT type to avoid any product running down the bumper. Knocking down VRT in the lower grill is almost impossible as it has a thickness. Grill is almost 1/2" deep and knocking down every little bee hive opening after every wash is a PITA!

Thanks again for any advice!

 

I love me some D114.... smells like Hawaiian Punch.

 

No, you do not need to use an IPA wipedown after claying... I really don't feel like an IPA wipedown works for anything other than removing polishing oils or maybe a pure carnuba wax.

 

For stronger sealants the only way to remove them fully is to polish (if they haven't degraded over time naturally). There's been a few tests on this that are pretty interesting.

 

I'd use QS on the top grill. If it is raw plastic on the lower you can use QS or In and Out spray. If it is painted then QS would be a good idea.

 

In and out doesn't run, but will probably only last through one wash.

[oski83]

Great idea! Didn't remember In & Out! But yes lower grill is raw or unpainted black plastic

[Ricky Bobby]

I mean you can spray the lower with In and out but don't drive yourself crazy, I had a honeycomb on my 2008 GLI and only sprayed it every few washes.  Quick Sealant would be great on your whole car actually since its silver.

 

And agreed with Kyle, after you get all your claying and decontamination done, you can do an IPA wipe, but its going to need a few wipes to get rid of sealants if there are any on the surface, and truth be told if your decon process is solid enough, you shouldnt have much if anything remaining on the surface anyway.  IPA wipes are good fore removing polishing oils and traditional waxes for sure.

 

Polishing over a sealed surface is not going to impede polisher performance like it would if you had waxed the surface, but it would remove the sealant in the process.

[LFairbanks]

You guys do awesome jobs of making people spend their money....lol

[The Guz]

Thanks for all the info and tips guys! I just did the "baggy" test and wow! Despite the paint 'looking' flawless, shiny and sparkling (ice silver metallic paint), it definitely needs to be clayed. Luckily I had on my recent order placed a new Adams Blue clay bar. As far as lube, I do have detail spray and a small bottle of ONR I might be using first before placing an order for D114

 

Once I clay is it absolutely necessary to do an IPA wipe down to remove any residual LSP? I'm assuming YES?

 

Also, I'm debating on products to use and protect the front grills on my car. Top grill is an imported grill from Japan as they come in the Japanese Subaru WRX. It's a basic grill with a glossy finish that looks like some kind of dipped metal grill finished in like a powder coat with a piano black surrounding frame.

 

Bottom grill is a stock black non-textured plastic grill.

 

Would Quick Sealant in spray work once cleaned properly? I'd like to protect them from road grime and help in removing bug splatter etc. I'd prefer to stay away from a spray VRT type to avoid any product running down the bumper. Knocking down VRT in the lower grill is almost impossible as it has a thickness. Grill is almost 1/2" deep and knocking down every little bee hive opening after every wash is a PITA!

Thanks again for any advice!

 

 

I love me some D114.... smells like Hawaiian Punch.

 

No, you do not need to use an IPA wipedown after claying... I really don't feel like an IPA wipedown works for anything other than removing polishing oils or maybe a pure carnuba wax.

 

For stronger sealants the only way to remove them fully is to polish (if they haven't degraded over time naturally). There's been a few tests on this that are pretty interesting.

 

I'd use QS on the top grill. If it is raw plastic on the lower you can use QS or In and Out spray. If it is painted then QS would be a good idea.

 

In and out doesn't run, but will probably only last through one wash.

 

Agree with this.  It's optional to IPA wipe.  If you do pick up some D114 you can mix it at 15:1 and use that as an IPA replacement.  You would use it in a spray bottle.  It can strip wax at this strong dilution ration. 

[oski83]

Finally got my order delivered and went to town on my car.

Started with detail wash of wheels with various brushes, Diablo gel and APC on tires, dried with metro handheld and towels. Washed car with foam gun and 2 bucket method, dried with metro big boy and waffle weave towels. Clayed with Adams big blue clay, followed by Brilliant Glaze, Adams Sealent and topped off with Adams buttery wax. WOW! BETTER THAN EVERY!

Great products, great smell, and easy on/off application.

[TheWolf]

Post up some pics!

[marquez93]

Next weekend, I'm going to detail my dad's black '99 Mustang Cobra convertible and it needs some serious polishing.  After I polish, would it be better to do the IPA wipe or does Revive clean it well enough?  I've got plenty of Revive and don't use it very often, so that would be easy to apply.

 

After polishing, I plan on doing Liquid Paint Sealant, Brilliant Glaze and Americana.  It should keep me busy for a while.

[oski83]

Will post a few pics tonight for sure!

 

@ Marquez I also did an IPA wide down just to make sure everything from before was off. Did it after my clay and before the glaze/sealant/wax