MF vs. Foam Cutting pads?

[chops1sc]

I thought I saw an Adam's video comparing microfiber and foam cutting pads, but I guess I am mistaken. I bought the 6.5" MF pad a while back but have yet to use it.

 

To those who have used both, which do you prefer? I plan on using both but I can't help but wonder which one is "better". I know it all depends on the machine, the user, the polish, etc. Maybe a list of pros and cons? Any help is appreciated!

[egott_91]

Microfiber is a lot better for cutting while foam is better for finishing down. That's at least what I've experienced.

[AmyAtAdamsAustralia]

Hi Chris,

 

I had a quick search and I believe the video you're referring to is the comparison of the Gen4 pads. 

 

When it comes down to defining which pad is "better" it will depend on the job at hand and the level of defects/damage on the paint. I personally prefer having a few of the microfibre and foam in my detailing arsenal as the damage on paint is never completely identical.

 

Usually a good rule of thumb is to start with the least aggressive method possible first i.e White Foam with Finishing Polish and see where that gets you. If you need more correction you can step it up to a Microfibre cutting pad and Paint Correcting Polish.

 

For our mobile detailing side of the business here in Australia, I'm finding the orange microfibre cutting pad with PCP followed by the white foam pad with PFP yields great results correcting 85-90% of defects.

 

Usually I think of it this way. Correction= microfibre, and Refinement/Glossing = foam. At the end of it all it is a case by case basis. As long as you perform a  test spot with the least aggressive combo the paint will let you know what it needs.

 

On a side note, we use the Flex, Rupes 21, Cyclo and PC on different occassions but the polish/pad combo usually stays the same. Varying the type of polisher changes the speed and aggressivness of the pass.

 

I hope that helps you.

Edited August 20, 2015 by Joseph@AdamsAustralia

[Ricky Bobby]

Comparing MF cutting pad to orange foam pad, the MF cuts more but doesn't always finish down as well. Sometimes you need to follow up with a finishing foam pad.

 

However I have performed jobs where I was able to do a one step with an MF cutting pad and correcting polish (compound). It's all dependent on the paint and skill of the operator, as well as the color etc

[rkj4243]

Chris,

 

Joseph pretty much nailed it with advice related to pads and polishes.

 

Microfiber will correct more easily than foam, but foam finishes down better.

 

Typically, I use microfiber with Paint Correcting Polish, until I get desired correction results, and finish with white foam and Paint Finishing Polish.

 

Also, as Jason stated, darker colors tend to require both, as defects typically are more readily seen.

[Chris@Adams]

Hi Chris,

 

I had a quick search and I believe the video you're referring to is the comparison of the Gen4 pads. 

 

When it comes down to defining which pad is "better" it will depend on the job at hand and the level of defects/damage on the paint. I personally prefer having a few of the microfibre and foam in my detailing arsenal as the damage on paint is never completely identical.

 

Usually a good rule of thumb is to start with the least aggressive method possible first i.e White Foam with Finishing Polish and see where that gets you. If you need more correction you can step it up to a Microfibre cutting pad and Paint Correcting Polish.

 

For our mobile detailing side of the business here in Australia, I'm finding the orange microfibre cutting pad with PCP followed by the white foam pad with PFP yields great results correcting 85-90% of defects.

 

Usually I think of it this way. Correction= microfibre, and Refinement/Glossing = foam. At the end of it all it is a case by case basis. As long as you perform a  test spot with the least aggressive combo the paint will let you know what it needs.

 

On a side note, we use the Flex, Rupes 21, Cyclo and PC on different occassions but the polish/pad combo usually stays the same. Varying the type of polisher changes the speed and aggressivness of the pass.

 

I hope that helps you.

 

Bingo!

[chops1sc]

Many thanks for the replies guys! As I said before, I plan on using both. My experience so far tells me I'm going to need the cutting power of the MF. My technique needs the most improvement though.

[Chris@Adams]

Thank you Chris for your business!

[Adam]

Perfect explanation Joseph!!

[TheBurninator]

Comparing MF cutting pad to orange foam pad, the MF cuts more but doesn't always finish down as well. Sometimes you need to follow up with a finishing foam pad.

 

However I have performed jobs where I was able to do a one step with an MF cutting pad and correcting polish (compound). It's all dependent on the paint and skill of the operator, as well as the color etc

 

I find myself using foam pads more and more. The whole equation isn't cutting power or finishing ability. Sometimes foam just works better with certain products. But that is more outside of this forum for discussion.

[Ricky Bobby]

^Agreed.  Foam is tried and true.  Some compounds gum up MF cutting pads (not the case with Adams PC polish) but there are definitely some compounds that should not be used with microfiber.

[marquez93]

Some compounds gum up MF cutting pads (not the case with Adams PC polish) but there are definitely some compounds that should not be used with microfiber.

 

Definitely true.  When I first got the Rupes 15 for my shop and before I started using Adam's products, we were trying M brand MF cutting pads with a bunch of different compounds and it always matted the fibers and gummed it up.  The pads had to be brushed out constantly and didn't even produce great results.  I started looking around for foam pads at the same time that the Gen5 pads were released, so I got some of those and the Adam's polish and all of my guys love the pads. even though they're not Adam's addicts like me.  When I re-ordered some more foam pads, I got some MF also and they are so much better, at least when used with Adam's PC polish.

[Ricky Bobby]

^Its definitely the product for sure that helps (Adams PC polish), Megs MF cutting pads are actually a great pad as well.  The horrors come from the days of gummy compounds like D300, I still shudder as I had such a bad experience with it a few years back when it first came out, however, I am thankful because it taught me that MF cutting pads can do super awesome on harder to polish defects.

[TheBurninator]

^Its definitely the product for sure that helps (Adams PC polish), Megs MF cutting pads are actually a great pad as well.  The horrors come from the days of gummy compounds like D300, I still shudder as I had such a bad experience with it a few years back when it first came out, however, I am thankful because it taught me that MF cutting pads can do super awesome on harder to polish defects.

 

Hmmm I didn't really have a problem with D300 getting "gummy" on me. It has a better work time than M105. Although if you overwork megs compounds they tend to turn hard as a rock because they don't breakdown like a DAT polish.

[AvsBest]

Is it me or with the MF, the swirls and haze remover (I know I know) just won't flash... I ended up doing back and forth, up and down, back and forth, up and down (2 passes I guess) then stopped there. With the foam it flashes almost after the 1st pass.

 

I tried more passes just to see where it would get me and it still won't flash. I am using the flex. Thoughts?

[The Guz]

Hmmm I didn't really have a problem with D300 getting "gummy" on me. It has a better work time than M105. Although if you overwork megs compounds they tend to turn hard as a rock because they don't breakdown like a DAT polish.

 

I agree with you on this.  Humidity and temperature play a role in how compounds and polishes behave. 

[AmyAtAdamsAustralia]

Is it me or with the MF, the swirls and haze remover (I know I know) just won't flash... I ended up doing back and forth, up and down, back and forth, up and down (2 passes I guess) then stopped there. With the foam it flashes almost after the 1st pass.

 

I tried more passes just to see where it would get me and it still won't flash. I am using the flex. Thoughts?

 

It's difficult to imagine what results you're looking at without photos. How are you priming the pad? Also are you having difficulty flashing the polish on a test spot or is this later in the detailing process?

 

Keep in mind Swirl & Haze remover was designed a developed when Adam's didn't stock MF pads, so it is no surprise that it works really well with the Foam pads. I'm sure we can get it working for you but more insight into your priming process and quantity of polish used is needed. Or you can sacrifice the S&H and pull the trigger on some PCP, no fuss with MF there.

 

I have some S&H left and I'm more than happy to test some processes out for you and report back on what works if you are still keen on using S&H

[imcrazy]

I agree the MF is great for cutting an its more agressive than the orange foam pad. I couldn't quite get the amount of correction I needed with the orange foam pad on my 2014 Sierra, so I went to the orange MF pad and got 95% of all of the defects out and 100% of the swirls using paint correcting polish. I then went to the white foam and finished with fininsing polish. My truck looks awesome!

Edited August 23, 2015 by imcrazy

[AvsBest]

It's difficult to imagine what results you're looking at without photos. How are you priming the pad? Also are you having difficulty flashing the polish on a test spot or is this later in the detailing process?

 

Keep in mind Swirl & Haze remover was designed a developed when Adam's didn't stock MF pads, so it is no surprise that it works really well with the Foam pads. I'm sure we can get it working for you but more insight into your priming process and quantity of polish used is needed. Or you can sacrifice the S&H and pull the trigger on some PCP, no fuss with MF there.

 

I have some S&H left and I'm more than happy to test some processes out for you and report back on what works if you are still keen on using S&H

I didn't think of taking pictures at the time. According to Adam's video, there was no need to prime the MF pads with detail spray. I put a bit more product on the MF pad, without priming and just went at it. The results were still good, I just found it weird that it wouldn't flash.

 

I still have about half a bottle of H&S and Fine machine polish and they still give me decent results so I'll do my best to use it up then upgrade the products and get those new pads as well.

[Guest washemup]

Which pad works better? Depends on the type of defects your trying to remove, and the hardness/softness of the paint. On harder paint, like ceramic, microfiber is almost a necessity if your using a RO polisher. On soft paints, often a light cutting foam pad with compound will do the trick.

 

Pro's of microfiber pads.

 

Increased cutting ability.

Faster defect removal.

Ease of cleaning afterwards. They can be cleaned in your washing machine with microfiber cleaner.

Durability

 

Con's of microfiber pads.

 

Require more product for initial priming.

Have to be cleaned every section to remove product and paint residue.

Generally don't finish down as well as foam. Especially on softer paints.

 

Pro's of foam pads.

 

Ability to one step a wider range of paints.

More options in terms of cut ranges. From heavy cutting to no cut.

Achieve a higher level of gloss when finishing.

 

Con's of foam pads

 

Slower defect removal on medium/harder paints vs microfiber.

Clean by hand vs washing machine. Of course if you have a pad washer this saves a lot of time in cleanup.

Not as durable as microfiber.

[JohnnyDev]

Help me understand something - I see the term "soft paint" a lot. What's this mean and how would one know? I have a black 2013 Ram 1500. What would the paint be on it?

 

I'm thinking about diving into the world of machine polishing, but i'm unsure about a few things like above mentioned paint hardness, holograms, etc etc

[mc2hill]

Help me understand something - I see the term "soft paint" a lot. What's this mean and how would one know? I have a black 2013 Ram 1500. What would the paint be on it?p

 

I'm thinking about diving into the world of machine polishing, but i'm unsure about a few things like above mentioned paint hardness, holograms, etc etc

 

Hard to say if specific vehicles have 'hard' or 'soft' paint without prior experience.  Someone here may have corrected one.

 

The terms 'hard' or 'soft' refer to how easy the paint is to mar and how quickly it corrects.  'Soft' paint will mar easily, but will correct quickly.  'Hard' paint will be harder to damage, but will also take more work to correct.  

 

The paint on my black Frontier can be damaged with a hard look, but it does not take too much to get smooth again - foam pads and PCP/PFP.

My son's pewter colored Civic could not be corrected with the most aggressive foam pads.  Once I had MF pads I was able to correct it easily.

[Guest washemup]

Help me understand something - I see the term "soft paint" a lot. What's this mean and how would one know? I have a black 2013 Ram 1500. What would the paint be on it?

 

I'm thinking about diving into the world of machine polishing, but i'm unsure about a few things like above mentioned paint hardness, holograms, etc etc

 

Soft paint is easier to correct, but sometimes tougher to finish down. Hard paint is tougher to correct, but generally finishes down easier.

 

The best way to find out is to do a test section on your paint. If a light cutting pad (foam) / compound isn't making a dent in your defects it's hard. If your defects are removed somewhat it's medium, if most of them are removed, and/or the paint has a haze after compounding with this combo, it's soft.

 

Most Dodge paint I've done polishing on is medium/hard, but I can't honestly can't say which yours is, the only way to truly know is to do a test spot and find the correct combo with the compound to remove defects, and same with finishing polish, to bring the paint to a high gloss. Once you've achieved the desired results, complete entire car with same technique and pad/polish combo.

 

Holograms are generally caused by improper finishing using a rotary polisher, but usually are easily removed with finishing polish and a DA polisher. They can be scary to look at the first time your confronted with them, after you take them out, you'll smile when you can wow a friend or customer by easily removing them.

Edited September 16, 2015 by washemup

[JohnnyDev]

Soft paint is easier to correct, but sometimes tougher to finish down. Hard paint is tougher to correct, but generally finishes down easier.

 

The best way to find out is to do a test section on your paint. If a light cutting pad (foam) / compound isn't making a dent in your defects it's hard. If your defects are removed somewhat it's medium, if most of them are removed, and/or the paint has a haze after compounding with this combo, it's soft.

 

Most Dodge paint I've done polishing on is medium/hard, but I can't honestly can't say which yours is, the only way to truly know is to do a test spot and find the correct combo with the compound to remove defects, and same with finishing polish, to bring the paint to a high gloss. Once you've achieved the desired results, complete entire car with same technique and pad/polish combo.

 

Holograms are generally caused by improper finishing using a rotary polisher, but usually are easily removed with finishing polish and a DA polisher. They can be scary to look at the first time your confronted with them, after you take them out, you'll smile when you can wow a friend or customer by easily removing them.

 

 

Thank you. I'm more than likely going to hold off on purchasing a machine until next spring, but I believe i'm ready to take that step.