Kickerz71 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Can someone explain the order to protect my paint after it's been corrected? Wash Dry Clay Correct paint Polish ? ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Thorsager Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Wash Dry Clay Adams Paint Correcting Polish Adams Paint Finishing Polish After these steps you could use one of the following for protection. Adams Liquid Paint Sealant Adams H20 Guard and Gloss Adams Americana Wax Adams Buttery Wax What type of car are you working on? What does the paint look like? Do you have a polisher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 BluedogGMC Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) I would add that if you are going to clay you do not have to dry. Just go right from wash to claying with detail spray as a lube. Edited December 20, 2015 by BluedogGMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 How should I go about removing bug guts on the front, and rail dust on the rear? My truck has it the worst on both ends, and I still haven't found a way to SAFELY remove all of that. I would assume I need to remove all of that before correcting/polishing, correct? I don't want to apply too much pressure getting the bug guts off, what chemicals will help get those off? That's the only part holding me up on correcting/polishing that vehicle. My other 2 are in better shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 stripesace Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 How should I go about removing bug guts on the front, and rail dust on the rear? My truck has it the worst on both ends, and I still haven't found a way to SAFELY remove all of that. I would assume I need to remove all of that before correcting/polishing, correct? I don't want to apply too much pressure getting the bug guts off, what chemicals will help get those off? That's the only part holding me up on correcting/polishing that vehicle. My other 2 are in better shape. Check the Youtube Channel for the shine doc series on paint decontamination. It involves a 1:1 dilution of Deep Wheel Cleaner. There are lots of threads on removing bug guts on the forums. Waterless Wash or Rinseless Diluted seems to be the chemicals of most effective of softening them up and breaking them down for easy removal. What that and a microfiber can't take care, the clay bar should get the rest. I personally have small piece of clay dedicated to remove bug guts that the chemicals don't get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 mc2hill Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 And remember, you are doing the decon before the correction, so if you do have to use pressure you can get any marring out when you polish. For removing bugs, I often soak thin MF towels in my wash solution, then lay the over the 'buggy' area for 5-10 minutes. After the soaking they bugs should remove easily. This method preserves the LSP. You could try diluted APC on the bugs too. Just do NOT let it dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 What is LSP? I think dilluted All Purpose Cleaner might do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rkj4243 Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 James, LSP is Liquid Paint Sealant, and typically is used for finish protection. All Purpose Cleaner can remove it from your vehicle surface, and then it would be left unprotected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Ricky Bobby Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) LSP = Last Step Product - This can be a wax or sealant product of choice LPS is usually abbreviated here to mean Liquid Paint Sealant - but LSP is used often by us casual and/or professional detailers to encompass many more different protection products Edited January 12, 2016 by Ricky Bobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 mc2hill Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 What is LSP? I think dilluted All Purpose Cleaner might do the trick. Last Step Product - sealant, wax, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 mc2hill Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Great minds think alike!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Ha, I knew what LPS was, so I was just curious what LSP was. No worries, all on the same page now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I know there will be a few places my polisher can't get to (under door handles, tight spaces.....). How should I address those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Dan@Adams Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I know there will be a few places my polisher can't get to (under door handles, tight spaces.....). How should I address those? For those areas that even the Rupes Mini may have trouble reaching, I will hand polish them with the Orange and Blue Hex Grip Applicators - Orange Hex with Paint Correcting Polish if there are heavy scratches under the door handle, then follow it up with the Blue Hex with Revive Hand Polish. http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/buffing-pads-applicators.html We also have some of the orange UFO applicators available while supplies last in the Clearance section of the website. They are even lower profile than the Orange Hex Grip: http://adamspolishes.com/shop/specials/clearance.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I picked up one of UFO pads last night! I also have LPS and the accompanying 6" pad for application. How should I apply the buttery wax? I have the MF applicators.....but I also have the PC 7424. Are there any machine pads (and speed settings) you recommend for wax, or should that be done Mr Miagi style? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Dan@Adams Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 You can use our Gray Foam Pads to apply Liquid Paint Sealant or Buttery Wax with a machine no problem, but I would recommend maybe having a different pad for each product. Both are perfectly fine to apply by hand as well. You would want a low speed setting on the machine to apply either (speed 1-2), and you do not need to apply a ton of downward pressure on the machine, since all you are trying to do at this point is spread the sealant or wax thin and even, not paint correction. Ricky Bobby 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chris@Adams Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I like the MF pads for hand application of LPS too...... http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/buffing-pads-applicators/adam-s-microfiber-applicator-pads-2-pack.html Ricky Bobby and Dan@Adams 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
Kickerz71
Can someone explain the order to protect my paint after it's been corrected?
Wash
Dry
Clay
Correct paint
Polish
?
?
Thanks
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