mc2hill

15 hours ago, Sam Y said:

I think the key is pressure. I have been using heavy pressure like a newbie thinking that it'll get stuff off. I really should be thinking "passes" and running light pressure with multiple passes. Having plenty of lubricant is also a must.

 

Anyway, the answer is in plenty of other forums. If you can't remove it from a wash (or in my case my fingernail), then you need to repolish. Claying can cause marring if done wrong. Lesson learned.

On some cars you can mar the paint even if you do everything correctly.  I worked on several black Nissan/Infinity vehicles that marred with a hard look.

@Sam YGlad you got that sorted!  The 'magic' with Brilliant Glaze are the solvents in it, that help remove the Boost.  I guess Megs #7 has the same type stuff.

Welcome Buster!

17 hours ago, Captain Slow said:

Michael, you are correct. I’m immensely enjoying the role of being a father to my girls. While it’s fun to sneak off to the garage for an hour or two here and there to keep the rides shiny, I’d rather the girls remember me when I’m gone as being Papa who did things with them and not Papa hiding out in the garage. 
 

Bragging now: They made the cover of their school student/parent manual.

 

I’m  so proud of my twins!

 

Wow, they are so big!  Congrats to you and mom.

@Captain Slow I would call you out on swearing off black cars, but knowing you have 3 lovelies at home to spend time with I understand!

Yes, the Paint Sealant will work fine on the vinyl graphics.  Make sure to remove any extra product from the edge of the stripes. 

@aurikI have not tried the Lilly brush, but have something like it.  I let my wife use it in the house and had to pick up a new one for my detailing supplies!  Try searching for 'rubber pet hair brush' - I got the SM Arnold version, as they are a supplier to most detailing vendors.

Welcome Andre'!  What you making shiney?

On 9/14/2020 at 8:18 AM, MicheleD said:

There is confusion for me what to do after using rubbing compound. In the past I'd wash, clay, wash & wax. I have a 2011 Liberty Renegade I want to practice on before I do it on the nicer vehicle. So I will be washing, claying (not drying), rewashing, drying then using a rubbing compound on the driver door panel that's pretty scratched. After that is where I get confused, would it be noticeable that I did just that part & do I use a polishing compound before waxing or just wax. Some stuff I've read said if not done right the polishing before waxing has done some damage? I may be working on other cars in the future so I want to make it look better & not worse.                                                                                                                                                                                              Thank you in advance for any advice.

First off, Welcome!

You don't say if you are using a machine for the polishing, so I will respond as if you are working by hand.  The rubbing compound should be fairly aggressive, so using a finishing polish to refine the paint more is always a good plan.  Think of it like sandpaper in woodworking - start with a low number grit to remove the 'big' stuff, then finish with a higher number grit to smooth out the surface. 

If you will do more cars in the future, you should look into polishing with a machine - it is much faster and produces better results.  A random orbital, dual action machine (Porter Cable, Adam's Swirl Killers, etc.) is fairly simple to learn to use, and if you are mindful with the operation of them the only way they will damage the paint is if you drop them on the car!

Nice work Rob!

@dodgegirl05I will often use Revive as a paint cleaner on dark cars - after polishing and before applying Brilliant Glaze & American Wax.

Welcome Jordan!

Sadly I guess it is just another piece of inventory for the dealer, but that is a very sad condition to deliver an expensive car in.

Great work on making it correct!

I have a few that I like, but the green or blue 3M tape at the auto part store works well.  Just don't use any of the edge locking tape.  My favorite tape is 3M 06526, a 3/4" light green that has a vinyl feel to it, and is easy to place, remove, and place in a new area.

Welcome Colin!

Welcome Pete!

16 hours ago, Captain Slow said:

Today after Church my mother stopped by for an afternoon visit with her twin granddaughters, my wife and yours truly.

Nice work Paul, but don't kid yourself, we all know it was all about the grandkids!

For a regular maintenance wash I use the left over Rinseless wash for the wheels and the tires.  I use the Adam's Short Wheel Brush on the wheels, then do the tires with the Adam's Tire Brush.  I take out the regular Grit Guard and just use the Grit Guard Washboard insert to scrub the brushes against.  The water is filthy when I am finished, but the wheels & tires at least have the dust knocked off.

Every month or so I will do a full cleaning on the wheels & tires, then a Rinseless wash for the body.  This is what I do on customer cars.

Welcome Ken!

22 hours ago, Dan@Adams said:

Yep I've been using the Carpet Drill Brush that we offer with Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner. Then I'll use an Edgeless Utility Towel to soak up any excess moisture and then vacuum - makes even the worst floor mats and carpet look almost brand new!

I used one on my truck mats recently, and was amazed at how much better they looked with a quick going over.  I have drill brushes and the hook & loop model that I use on my Porter Cable, but the PC version is much easier to use for a extended period. 

4 hours ago, Eswear said:

Yeah an express detail is more of what I was talking about, it seems like I’m pushing 5 hours easy and that’s without shampooing the carpets or seats. Granted I do this as my side hustle/hobbie I wanted to know if I was really falling behind or what the general expectations were on how long it would take. 

Something that can help with the carpet and mats - use a carpet brush to loosen the sand.  I use a non-Adams short bristle tire brush to agitate the mat/carpet to loosen the sand as much as possible before/during vacumming.  I have even started using a hook-and-loop carpet brush on my Porter Cable to help deep clean the mats.

Welcome Matt!

Welcome Terri!

It will be your call if you polish after using the clay bar.  The clay can mar the surface, so maybe do a test spot to know what you will need for the whole car.  It is more pronounced on darker colors, but the same marring can be there for lighter colors, just not as noticeable.

Most would say polish if you are applying any type of coating, as you will be 'sealing in' any defects with the coating, and you want the paint to look it best first.

Nice work Paul! 

A cheaper option maybe cleaning them with the remaining Rinseless wash and hitting them with a few spritzs of CS3 as a LSP?  I use Wash & Wax as my maintenance wheel cleaner to add a quick bit of protection.

15 hours ago, RayS said:

It appears that the wife and I will be about 2 days behind you in our preparations based on today's spaghetti model.

Looking to be a 'little' one this time, mostly a wind and rain event, and fairly quickly moving too.  But they are always unsettling.