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TheWolf

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Posts posted by TheWolf

  1. Rinseless Wash has polymers in it, and the residue could affect the behavior of the coating.  If you do a rinseless wash, or a waterless wash with diluted Rinseless Wash, then I would go back and do a quick wipe-down with Ceramic Waterless Wash to remove any RW residue, and this will also give a little boost to the coating.

     

    Since you are not actually cleaning with the Ceramic Waterless Wash, you can use much less product for the final wipe-down.

  2. 7 hours ago, them240i said:

    In my car, I have Alcantara inserts on the E-brake boot and the side panels on the doors, and on all of the other leather surfaces. I use the Leather Conditioner regularly, but I'm unsure about how to clean and protect the Alcantara. Is there a special conditioner that I should use? I know that BMW sells their house brand cleaner, but it seems fairly expensive for the amount in the bottle. 

     

    Check out this guide:

     

    https://adamspolishes.com/how-to-clean-suede-interior

     

  3. Apply the product and remove the haze only with very careful motions parallel to the edges of the vinyl.  Do not apply or remove product by crossing the edge of the vinyl, or with circular motions.

     

    With most products, it won't look like there is any problem by not following this advice, but any product that gets built up along the edges of the vinyl will eventually turn white after a few days, and it is very difficult to remove.

     

    After a few years of not being careful enough with the vinyl lettering on the hood of my truck, I had to remove the vinyl because I could not stand seeing the residue built up along the edge.

  4. Do not use APC as a waterless strip product.  This is a strong degreaser and the product instructions state to not allow it to dry on the paint, as it can etch some finishes.

     

    Use Surface Prep, the older Coating Prep, or make you own solution of 50% Isopropyl Alcohol with 50% distilled water, to strip clean paint.

     

    Trying to combine cleaning and stripping into one step is not advisable.  For waterless cleaning, you need the lubrication in Waterless Wash or Rinsless Wash, but this lubrication is provided by polymers, which is going to remain on the paint.  The follow-up step would be to use Prep or IPA solution to remove these lubricants and any old wax or sealant.

     

    Trying to do both at once and the two products are working against each other. The Prep or IPA will immediately dilute and break down the polymers making it less safe to clean (ie reduced lubrication), and the polymers will still be left on the paint, so the surface is not truly stripped.

  5. 18 hours ago, Kraterer said:

    Someone on another post suggested that I could make a waterless wax stripper by "using 50% APC and 50% Waterless Wash (mixed from Rinseless Wash with distilled water or RTU) to make sure you have some lubrication." (Not sure what RTU is). 

     

    I only ask because I missed the sealant step between polishing and waxing (followed by DS, Brilliant Glaze then Spray Wax over the course of a month or so of car shows, etc.). I'd like to strip everything, apply the paint sealant, then hit it again with Patriot Wax. 

     

    Thoughts? Suggestions? 

     

    Do not use APC as a waterless strip product.  This is a strong degreaser and the product instructions state to not allow it to dry on the paint, as it can etch some finishes.

     

    Use Surface Prep, the older Coating Prep, or make you own solution of 50% Isopropyl Alcohol with 50% distilled water, to strip clean paint.

     

    Trying to combine cleaning and stripping into one step is not advisable.  For waterless cleaning, you need the lubrication in Waterless Wash or Rinsless Wash, but this lubrication is provided by polymers, which is going to remain on the paint.  The follow-up step would be to use Prep or IPA solution to remove these lubricants and any old wax or sealant.

     

    Trying to do both at once and the two products are working against each other. The Prep or IPA will immediately dilute and break down the polymers making it less safe to clean (ie reduced lubrication), and the polymers will still be left on the paint, so the surface is not truly stripped.

     

     

     

  6. I understand the frustration, as many of us are used to 2-day shipping from Amazon, which now has 1-day shipping on many items. 

     

    Order backlog during most sale events can take a few days to process for standard or free shipping options, and the free shipping option usually means Smartpost, which adds another few days for the USPS to handle the final delivery.

     

    I have found that having a gallon refill in the order usually results in standard ground shipping and not Smartpost.

     

     

  7. 14 hours ago, DonJuan692006 said:

    Are you still running the same pressure washer/DI setup? If so, how have they held up?

     

    Yes, and it works great.  On Saturday, the truck was covered in pollen, so I did a touchless wash by pressure washing with DI water, and then let it drip dry.

  8. On ‎6‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 9:59 AM, bowtie said:

    Can I use the ceramic coating kit on my flat vinyl stripes? I've strip washed, clayed, paint corrected. Now I'm ready to use the ceramic system just not sure or can't find anything on flat colored vinyl?

     

    Yes, you can use Ceramic Paint Coating on matte vinyl, but it will make the appearance slightly darker with the possibility of adding some small level of shine.

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