KSRegalGS

I second this technique. The cockpit brush and leather and interior cleaner does amazing things. It effortlessly removed ball hitch grease from my plastic trim and leather. I would think it would cut through the baby oil without a problem. Wipe up any excess with a dry mf towel and apply leather conditioner.

That's how sticky the new Adams adhesive is. Your truck won't fall off your driveway

Never thought of upping the flow to do a 1 bucket wash. Sure it's more soap through the gun but I'm not spending soap in both my bucket and foam gun. Thanks for the tip!

I see if I try to buy one bottle it shows $5.99 shipping, and if I update quantity to 2 it adds $0.50; makes sense. If I add a second product; I'm paying the full shipping amount ($11.98) for both.

Any way you can offer free shipping on eBay items? No way am I paying 5.99 per product.

Import export compliance. ...Potato chips and diapers

Staying up to date on Adams specials I suppose. Doesn't really have a specific purpose other than an internet browser hiding within open Excel files.

VBA is a script editor for Excel. Excel has a Web Browser add-in and the script tells the Excel browser which page to load. I have a drop down list which has every Adams product link. I dont have permissions to add these file types to the forum as I was hoping, so I'm just showing it off for now.

I am not condoning the use of such a file, but lets say someone created an Excel file to check websites between the hours of 5 am - 6 pm.

Honestly, unless you've done many modifications and splicing of wires on your own I wouldn't be too worried about the electronics and water. Even a factory connection into an aftermarket component would still mean you're using the factory seal on the connector. You're engine bay is open to the elements, there are water seals and grommets within each connection point. A Master Blaster Sidekick will be your best friend here. If you dont have an air mover, you could use a compressor or the blow side of a shop vac. I have a 1.5 shop vac which I've removed the canister and used the blower side of the vacuum unit to blow water away from an engine bay. you'd be blowing outside air, which I know many people will say is like sand blasting, but you're blowing water out of an engine bay and not off your clearcoat.

up town

Why not offer the product for sale everywhere but exclude sales to California? Bootleggers used to truck grain alcohol all across the country. Surely some Adam's addict could drive a couple hundred miles out of or into the state.

I would follow-up any tint polishing with a razor blade and a fresh application of new window film! I'm not a polishing expert by any means, but in all seriousness I would advise against. Try polishing the underside of a CD and see what happens. While they aren't made of the same material, I would anticipate the 'plastic'/polycarbonate material to behave similarly.

Not all the components freeze at the same temp. That being said, once you get it to room temp just make sure you give it a good shake as you should before you use any product left to sit.

i would suggest the Woolie with deep wheel cleaner. I am a little disappointed with the turbo stick. The flexible design doesn't allow you to clean off anything other than light brake dust, and it doesn't do the best job in corners where the spokes meet the wheel barrel if you're going for a full clean. And then you need to reverse the drill so the cloth doesn't form to one direction. Plus it'll really whip the product off and out of the fibers if it spins while out of the wheel.

Bosch Icon or Rain-X Latitudes, they both form to the windshield nicely.

Non-Adams cleaners typically 1)wash 2)dry 3)spray wax 'Round here, we 1)wash engine bay 2)wash wheels 3)wash car 4)clay entire car 5)VRT plastic trim 6a)revive and hand polish 6b)paint correction 7)paint sealant 8)glaze 9)wax 10)tire shine 11)vrt engine bay 12)in&out spray hard to reach plastic 13)glass cleaner 14)glass sealant 15)grin ear-to-ear

Would the forum 10% discount "SHINE ON" work better than the 15%. You have a sizeable order so the 15% may be better. I'm not trying to sound like a dummy since 15% is more than 10%, but I thought the forum discount included polishers where the others typically do not.

Thanks for the replies; gotta love the support on this forum! The temps have been in the mid 60's recently. After I made my last attempt to wipe the car down I let it sit overnight and then topped it off with Buttery Wax the following morning. I didn't notice any marks after the wax application. I recalled the "thin is in" w.r.t. applying LPS, but there's limitations to applying thin with a microfiber pad.

Has anyone ever noticed a film left behind from LPS? I did a strip wash and clayed the surface before applying so I know the surface was properly prepped. After applying a thin layer of LPS by hand I could see an oil like film left on the paint. I could take a fresh microfiber, wipe in any direction, and at the right angle I could see smear marks going in the last direction I wiped. The product was allowed to haze. I'm just curious whether the product properly adhered to the paint as a sealant should.

Check out rinseless wash as well. It's amazing. Hands-down.

You certainly are entitled to your opinion. I enjoy using plasti-dip, as do many others. On the reverse side, there are people who don't. Anyhow, I'm glad to know BG removes dip; I'll be sure to apply with caution if a said Mystery Box reveals it to me.

If there was a "Dislike This" button, I would click it.

I don't like it. I like the concept of a cartoon-like rendering, but not this. Consider doing the same effect on the Adams logo as well. The original Adams logo over this rendering looks out of place. But it's a great start, and that's what it takes to make a great product. You have to start somewhere.

^This! I wish I wouuld have bought a spacious 3000 sqft garage with an attached bedroom and kitchen.