FrozenWS6

Cleared the 7" of fresh snow from my driveway.

For a car like that you'll be fine with just Americana, it will give you more shine then G&G. That said you won't hurt anything by using both. I did a black GTO for a friend I G&G then topped with Americana and it looks really good too.

I received mine yesterday also and did a quick test. First thing I noticed was it's pretty quiet, then second was it has a fair amount of vibration. Which is hard for me because my hands are pretty hammered from arthritis and carpel tunnel. It did make quick work out of my black plastic puller pieces.

Yeah this one from flex worked for me. I just haven't put it on yet until my new pads come in this week.

I agree with the need for a better tire brush. I get better results from a stiffer and shorter bristled brush also.

I got a McCullough and have been pretty happy with it, but Medic hit everything on the money.

I have one also. So nice getting all the water out of the seams and cracks so there's no water trails down the sides or water blowing out of the mirror housings.

I'd be surprised if that isn't noted in one of the posts here about the paint coating. I did find this in Q&A. It states no chemical will remove it.

You won't need it. Adams says not to put anything besides the Boost on the paint coating. It can lessen the effectiveness of the coating.

Nice write up. I'm curious to see how well it holds up. I've been thinking about doing my wheel liners too. Just can't have my truck down for 2 days and we have a lot of rocks to beat it up.

Look at boat seats. There designed for all kinds of weather and can usually be mounted easily by running bolts or screws up from the bottom.

Butters. If you do the paint coating you will use the boost about once every 6 months. You won't need the G&G any more on it. I've been trying the Boost as a standalone but it's an extra step because it has to be dried before application. Where the G&G you apply and dry in one step.

I decided to do a test. After my recent experience with the paint coating, I noticed the prep was pretty good at removing road tar. So I waterless washed the fender on my DD for the test which has some pretty good tar on it. (During my last wash I used the Boost for my top coat). So that is the only thing in it. First some new Visco clay. Using it for the first time since I had a tub of blue I had been trying to finish off first. This worked really well. Better then I expected since the blue clay wouldn't even think about removing any tar. Then I tried just straight ceramic paint prep. Which worked very well also. But took a bit more effort then the Visco clay did. So it is a nice option to have if needed.

Thanks. It was good for about 100 mph with that setup. That was the base setup. I had built that big block for a blower. But wanted to get it dialed in before I put it on. One fall I didn't get enough fogging oil in it and it got moisture in it and rusted the cylinder walls some so I took it apart to build a bigger engine and decided to sell it back to one of its previous owners and friend after my son was born. He's doing a nice 468 big block now and should easily go over 120 with it.

Same here. I've even used G&G every wash (which was every weekend) all summer long and didn't have any build up issues. Except this last time I washed I didn't use anything so I could try the ceramic boost as a stand alone.

My black gel coat was pretty much grey it was so bad. Hadn't been touched in about 10 years before I cleaned it up. No sanding needed. I just used a heavy cut compound with a foam pad. I know it's pretty dusty but you can see that it's got a nice black gel under it.

You should be fine starting with the heavy if it's real bad. Depending on the color you might not have to use correcting polish. I had a black 1983 v drive drag boat that needed some serious help and all I did was use some heavy cut compound. It cleaned up nice.

I found the 4 3/8" flex backing plate which works with a 5-5.5" pad, on amazon for $36. With shipping of $45, which is the only option they give me for Alaska. I'm into this for $81. To beable to use the new pads. Since there isn't anything available through Adams to fit anymore. Adams might want to check into carrying some that would have gave me the one stop shopping I like some much here. One of these days I might add some Rupies stuff but for now I'm good with my Flex.

I didn't try spraying more boost on it. I was going with the less is better theory. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks.

Tried this today on my DD. I had the same experiance as everyone else with it being sticky as I wiped in spots. I gave it about an hour before I took it out into the cold and back in the 68* shop. I'm not sure if this needs any kind of cure time or not. But I have wipe marks that will not come off now, also on my side glass were I tried to wipe the slightest bit of overspray off. I didn't notice anymore gloss then I already had so my only gain will be possibly better paint protection. I am still on the fence about the Boost as a standalone. Maybe I'll like it more after I get it mastered. If I were to go off of my first try. I would not be using it again, I would go back to HGG, but I'm going to give it another try before I do that first. Here are the marks I can't get off. Sorry for the bad photo editing.

It dose. In the video Adam has for it, he says that it is tacky before the boost is applied. I could only feel that when I tried to wipe across it with my single soft. I couldn't really feel that with my hand. If it's slow today with work I'm going to wash then try using Boost only on my DD to see how that does.

Got the Boost applied this morning. (it smells better then the other 2 parts). Couldn't really see much of a difference between before and after. So I decided to try putting some water on it. The water instantly beads up and was running off. So that should help keep the bugs and dirt from sticking this summer also. In all, the process doesn't take as long as I thought it would. But the most important step is the Prep Work before you apply anything. Now I am just waiting for April to get it out and let her drive it.

Anytime. The hard part for me is my DD is likely to get wet some how within the 24 hour cure time because I have to drive it every day no matter what. So it probably won't get any paint coating even though I'd like to apply it.

Jason. My thought is even if I have to boost it every 6 months. That's still less then I'm doing with HGG over Sealant. Plus it saves me time on this car when I have 3 of my own plus she has another one I maintain regularly on my days off. Which means I have more time for my son.

Since I havn't seen many posts about the Ceramic Paint Coating I thought I'd post my experiance so far. My test car is our Pontiac Solstice. I chose this one to try it on because it lives outside all summer and gets driven in all weather conditions, and right now it's stored in my shop so it's plenty warm and won't get wet. Also being a darker color I thought it would be easier for me to see the coating turn Rainbow so I knew it was good to wipe down. I had already single step polished, and sealed it this fall. So I created a bit more work for myself in having to strip all that off. I also decided I could get the paint closer to perfect. So another 6 hours of 2 step buffing and polishing I was ready to start the process. First thing I noticed is each product has a pretty strong smell. The Prep works great on any left over tar and cleans it up pretty quick. Then I applied the coating and it goes on pretty quick also. Now I'm waiting for it to cure so in the morning I will apply the Ceramic Boost and see what it looks like and post a pic. Here is a couple pics of it waiting to cure. I'm liking how wet the paint is looking so far.