pirahnah3

You should be able to use your plush towel and buff the residue once you "wipe and roll" with the WW towel as the WW towel should pick up the dust and dirt. Maybe this is what you are doing and I just misunderstood your statement but "buffing" the residue may eliminate the streaking. I Have never tried WW but I do use diluted RW with the WW towels and have good results.

Typically they will use a rotary style buffer on the side that they worked the paint as they wet sand and polish it out etc... I have had my car worked on and it has tons of holograms where the work was done due to this. I didn't call them back if the guy that put the marks there is the guy fixing it were just asking for more disasters in my book, I will polish it out myself and make sure it gets the adams treatment not some busch league junk they got from the lowest bidder. It seems starnge that your marks showed up on the opposite side though. Some shops will wash a car if it's dirty so they can see what they are working with though, if they did that then I would say they didn't use a 2 bucket princess bath and they used old wore out junk to wash it with if you ask me. Not trying to pint fingers but seems you are better off just giving the rover a special spa day with adams products to get it back on the right track to beauty. You could call and ask if they washed or polished it if it helps you sleep at night though. Good luck and sorry to hear anout your situation.

+1. No sense going back to a body shop, they (typically) aren't equipped to get the paint perfect and swirl-free.

Usually a body shop will only do what they have to. They will make it look good enough to get it out the door. I know a painter here in my home town that HATES running a buffer and he has perfected spraying clear to the point that he doesn't have to very often. If there are no holograms on the side they fixed I would be surprised if they would have touched the other side unless it was rough enough that they needed to try to match the new shiny side by shining up the other side. On the other hand, it sounds like you have spent a little time with this vehicle so I think you would have noticed them before so there is only one place they could have come from. I also think that going back to the shop to have it fixed is not the best idea. As stated above, if they did that in the first place that is what you will get as a "fix" also.
 
If you need to set your mind at ease about it you could call or stop in and ask if they did buff it. They will probably tell you how they did it at no charge and "doesn't it look great?" type of BS. At least you would know you need to find a new shop for next time.
 
Just remember not to seal or wax that new paint until it has fully cured out. the shop should have given you a time frame (usually around 60-90 days).

I would have to agree at least on the going back, your not really going to get much better if that is what they did to start. Honestly most of us will never be happy with anyone elses work due to the levels of care we put our vehicles thru. 
 
Seems like a good excuse to ride thru the winter with her and give her a nice weekend at the Adams Spa come warmer weather. This would also let the paint finish curing and a good time of year to clean up the vehicle. 

Those two things. 
 
I do almost ALL of my work outside currently and the polarized sunglasses really help. Unless I am about to apply liquid paint sealer and spent the time removing a bunch of clay bar lube residue or polisher residue I always follow up my wax removal with a detail spray double soft towel wipe down. Personally I just feel that it give that nice one little last pop and cleanup of any of my OOPs spots of wax or even LPS removal. 
 
As to the OP here, I drive a white F250 and I agree it is not always the easiest to find all those spots but with the above mentioned methods I rarely if ever find a spot I have missed. 

Bingo!
 
Reducing your detailing spending?  Rubbish! 

Welcome to the forums, a lot of great help on here and very willing to answer questions so you can get the result that these products can deliver. 

I appreciate it, i was reffering to the haze up being that i know when dylan did it in the vid you could really see the product on the vehicle, with mine i really couldnt see anything going on other than on the glass or on the dark trim so i had to assume that it was going on the pannels.
 
I noticed that in several posts it was listed as being something that could take longer times to activate and cure in colder temps so i had an assunption that i would see a bit of a haze when it was drying on the panel as i was waiting for things with the barely 50 degree temps i was working in.

Pull out of the garage into the sun and then put on polarized sunglasses while you remove the residue in order to reduce the glare off the paint so you can see if anything's left, this will also help you squint less.

Another thing to bring up here is time spent vs. expected results. There is nothing wrong with wanting perfect paint, but I am not going to spend all of my time on a daily driver that will never be perfect (RIDS, orange peel, etc.). I get compliments on my truck everywhere I go and it is FAR from perfect. The orange peel can be seen from 20ft away! Drives me crazy! So, knowing that I will never have super slick scratch free paint allows me to spend the least amount of time dusting my truck without going into freak mode about messing up the paint, lol. I simply have better things to do with my time.
 
Now, when I get my Camaro painted I WILL get perfect paint. I WILL take the time to ensure I don't introduce any swirls. And I cannot wait, LOL!!

Looking forward to seeing how it works, even if it doesnt take them all out its a great benchmark for folks to learn from. 

I do this on my clear coated rims on my F250, works great. I have to thank the folks here for the idea on it after reading threads on the QS being discontinued. Easy to apply and works great. 

What are your thoughts on use Liquid Paint Sealant instead of Quick sealant on the wheels. I know it will take a lot of time to apply and remove the film. I would assume that LPS will last longer than Quick sealant. 

You can always dilute Rinsless Wash and use it as Waterless.

she is sure purdy. 

Thanks Dan. I think that is missing a bit from some of the vids is descriptions or comments like that. Really helps as Adams has done AWESOME vids for the products that really help. 

oh that is just purdy she will shine up nice, have seen a couple out there at shows. 

I'd used a California Duster in the past, I've discontinued its use. I'd even gotten Junkman's instructions first hand at a Detail Clinic I'd attended years ago. It didn't seem to matter how lightly I drug the tool across my perfectly corrected paint, I'd induce marring. It's made of cotton fibers, like a mop, and those fibers have been soaked in paraffin wax. Yes, as advertised, the dust picked up is absorbed into the fibers, but not until its been dragged across my paint for a bit.
 
Now, I liberally spray one panel at a time with either Waterless Wash, Rinseless Wash, or Detail Spray and carefully wipe that off with a Waterless Wash microfiber towel. These three products help to encapsulate the dust and lift it away from the paint, so when carefully wiped it has less of a chance of inducing any type of marring. The Waterless Wash microfiber towel helps quite a bit too. By the nature of its waffle weave dust is pulled up into the towel, not just left on it surface.
 
The less you touch your paint, the less of a chance you have of induce any marring.

^this.  Sealant bonds best to clean paint.  Polishing leaves behind oils that will interfere with the bond, and can possibly cause haziness.
 
Here's a few posts on this topic. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

great write up, would love to try one....im not that small lol. 
 
 
 
EDIT: I would honestly love to try one, the more I read the more I do like these, Just dont fit me. 

Great way to pull the jack stands, I have never liked climbing under and pulling them out. 
 
Great writeups all around. 

I actually love the 1L Kwazar bottle for my foam cannon (bottle portion only) because I can put it down and it stands up and its tough heavy duty plastic.  the 16 oz bottles are fine and ever since they switched to the black sprayers that were the heavier duty Mixor the reliability has been better, those old low profile spray heads never lasted worth anything.
 
Btw Jason, I totally believe that a carabiner would need to be thrown out, same as a motorcycle helmet - I learned that in my beginner rider class years ago and I am extremely careful not to drop my helmet when I go on rides places - If you technically drop it, the inner liner has taken "impact" and helmets are meant to be one impact only items.  I wouldn't screw around if I dropped it and try to keep it, I would buy another one.  Also, motorcycle helmets are really only rated for about 5-6 years (don't quote me but its something like that) before the internals have degraded enough to where it isn't guaranteed to protect in an impact.
 
With my dome, I don't mess around.

Should be fine. Heck anything is most times better than nothing.