stripesace

Step One - Wheel and Tire Cleaning: DO NOT work on wheels and tires that are hot, and avoid direct sunlight as best as you can. Liberally spray your tires and fender wells down with All Purpose Cleaner. Spray your wheels down with Wheel Cleaner - Allow to dwell. Use the Fender Brush to scrub your wheel wells. Use the Tire Brush to scrub your tires. By now Wheel Cleaner has started to really work. Using your Wheel Brush, agitate all of the Wheel Cleaner around the wheel. Cover the entire the wheel with your wheel brush. Allow Wheel Cleaner to finish working. Rinse wheel wells, tires and wheels completely. You want to make sure all product is rinsed from the areas. Rinse all of your brushes out well and move on to the next wheel, until all wheels are washed. Step Two - Rinsing and Washing Your Car This process works best if you are in the shade, and have shade to go to go. Avoid direct sunlight washing the best you can. Sometimes its just un-avoidable. When putting water on your car, always start with the shady/cool side first. Apply about 2oz of Car Shampoo to your wash pad and place it in the bottom of your bucket on top of your grit guard. Fill the bucket up with water by first spraying water into your wash pad creating a nice sudsy lather in the bucket. Once you have the shampoo activated in the wash pad, drop your nozzle below the suds and finish filling the bucket with water to about 3.5-4 gallons. With your soap bucket ready, make sure you have your next steps ready. If this is your first time washing/detailing the car, have your Visco Clay and Detail Spray ready to go. Start rinsing your car down. Work from the top down. Giving your car a good rinse down will knock all the loose dirt and grime off. Getting as much off as you can helps ensure a safe wash. Remember, start with the shade/cool side of your car, working towards the sunlight. Once your car is rinsed, take your wash pad out of the bucket, allowing the water to run off back into your bucket. Once most of the water has run off the pad, lightly work your wash pad across the roof of your car. Most times, I hold onto the edge of the wash pad and let the lubrication of the soap do its thing and just move the pad around front of car to back of car in straight lines. I typically only use one side of the wash pad for the roof of the car. If your car is REALLY dirty, you might want to switch sides for half of the roof. Once the roof is done, I like to switch sides of the pad and wash the windshield and rear glass with the clean side. If the car is not super dirty, I will go ahead and finish the "greenhouse" of the car, starting with the sunny side/hot first, then moving to the shade/cool side. The greenhouse (a NASCAR term) is the top of the door to the top of the roof, A, B, C pillars. By this point your wash pad is probably very dirty. Move the fresh wash pad in your bucket out of the way and drop your dirty wash pad into the bucket. Agitate the wash pad against the grit guard to pull all of the dirtiness off of your wash pad. Inspect the wash pad to make sure it's clean. This is where you have a choice. You can continue to use this wash pad to complete the top portions of your car (from the top of the door down to half-way down the door) or rotate to the new pad. With the wash pad, I like to move to the hood. Flip to the clean side of the wash pad and then start working my way to the back of the car on the sunny/hot side. I typically split my door panels to the halfway mark. Keep an eye on your pad. If it's getting dirty, go back to the bucket, agitate it on the girt guard, cleaning it off and getting fresh soap in the pad. Now that your car is covered in PH neutral shampoo, its time to get ready for the next steps. Detail Spray ready? Shaded spot ready? Garage ready for you to pull into? RINSE you're car, again from the top down, shaded side first, making sure all of the soap is being washed off and out of cracks and crevices. Once your entire car is rinsed down, move the car to the shaded spot or garage.

The 'less obsessed' Adam's Approach. First off, I am not a writer, and I'm sure there are PLENTY of errors. I'm also not a detailer to the level of Mr. Wolf, Pitale, Tyger, or MANY MANY other here's. If you see something that you feel might need to tweaked, shoot me a PM. Let's face it. Some folks just aren't wired like the rest of us. Some come here just looking for quick, easy, and visible results to car care. Not everyone is going to the lengths of strip washing, claying, paint correcting, and what not. Some come here looking for quality products because they want a complete system of quality products Wal-Mart or the local auto parts store can't provide. But they still have the mentality of quick and easy. My goal is here to simplify the system, and help you build you're first shopping cart. For starters, you'll want: 1- Adam's Daily Driver Detailing Kit. (Link) Includes: 1 - Visco Clay Bar 1 - 16oz Detail Spray 1 - 16oz All Purpose Cleaner 1 - 16oz Car Shampoo 1 - 16oz H2O Guard & Gloss 2 - Borderless Gray Towel (for H2O Guard & Gloss Application) 1 - Fender Brush 1 - Wheel Brush 2 - 10" Wash Pad 1 - Bucket w/ Grit Guard & Gamma Seal Lid I would add the following: 1 - Adam's New Spray Nozzle or Fire Nozzle (Not required if you spring for the Foam gun) 1 - Tire & Trim Combo (Link) Includes: 1 - 16oz All Purpose Cleaner 1 - 16oz VRT 2 - Foam Block Applicators 1 - 16oz Wheel Cleaner (Link) 1 - 16oz Tire Shine (Link) 4 - Single Soft Microfiber Towels (Link) 2 - Great White Drying Towels (Link) 1 - Deep Clean Tire Scrub Brush (Link) OPTIONAL (For fun...) Adam's Foam Gun Wash Process: FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS & WARNINGS AS PRINTED ON THE BOTTLE. The instructions in this write up are not all inclusive. Watch Adam's Daily Driver Detailing Video. It's full of great instructions is a great overview of the process. Before you start, have a plan and be prepared. Have everything staged and ready to go! Don't start the step until you've got everything ready to go.

The only concern is the amount of rinsing it would take to get all of the soap residue out.... Dawn is very foamy....

Ya know what happened? I copied a link from raptorforum and it didn't paste before I clicked save. http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f209/adams-polishes-detailing-guide-45736/

hose or pressure washer?

And if I had to guess, this is probably rock solid because TheWolf himself wrote it.

From 2011.... >>>DOWNLOAD YOUR COPY BY CLICKING HERE<<<

CR Spotless says 300gallons per resin. Who all are you looking at? CR Spotless is probably pretty wasteful without a pressure washer thats only pulling 1.2-1.6GPM. By that standard 300 gallons will last a long time if you're using it for rinsing only. The cost is the only thing keeping me away right now.

Some just went up on the website yesterday with the new sale.

People want everything for very little. What they don't understand (and this is judging by appearance and the previous nozzle) is this fire nozzle is made by an actual fire nozzle company in the USA. Its just the society we live in today. I'm struggling with wether I want one or not. Does it have a shut off integrated into the nozzle? or do I have to go through the range of the sprays to twist it off?

And much more quickly!

Janee - this isn't really the appropriate venue for this type of customer service. I would strongly suggest sending an email to Orders@adamspolishes.com and letting the customer service team work with you. You'll get much more expedient service and personalized attention going that route.

TheWolf and Dan are working on one.

Abilene. Spent some time in Sweetwater as a child. Welcome to the community.

I'm sure that would probably be frowned on by the Adams staff. And I'll help you out. 15% discount right now... going to be tough to beat.

You're probably going to have to work the new stickers in over time.

Original boxes in a plastic tub. Pads separated in tubs by pad type/size.

LSP = Last Step Product... For most of us that is LPS (Liquid Paint Sealant or now... Paint Sealant) topped with H2O Guard & Gloss.

Couldn't resist but I'm extremely flattered.

I go back and forth... Would it be nice for detail spray and waterless wash? Sure. I have almost everything in the 32oz Tolco's and that trigger is really quite easy to squeeze.

It can replace 75 to 80% of towel drying. Especially once you get a good LSP layer on. I still find myself going back around with either a waterless wash towel or single soft and some detail spray and getting whatever might be or still "dripping"

Xpel has a temporary film product. There's a few others out there too I've seen discussed on another forum.

There's two sides to the glaze under or over the sealant. It's been discussed ... a lot... some searching of the forums will take you to lots of passionate posts on both sides of the debate.

screenshot? I tried having snapchat and never really say much from Adams so away it went.