RayS

Welcome John. There is nothing better that getting one of these cars and seeing it brought back to life mechanically and visually.

Design engineer

Hopefully, your order isn't caught up in the storm. Fedex used to be pretty good about getting info back to the shipper when something happened, but it is possible that they are overwhelmed with the holidays. My last order sat in Kennessaw, GA for 5 days at FedEx and just arrived today. The orders page showed where it was at, but the delivery date was marked as Delivery Date Unknown and then it made it to Columbia last night and was delivered today. I know that there is nothing that the Adam's team could do about it, it's just the way Fedex operates sometimes.

You are most certainly welcome Jacob. While I'm thinking about it, if the vehicle looks a little dull after your two bucket wash going over it with Revive Hand Polish before reapplying the should bring it back to life. Revive is not only a polish, it is also a cleaner and don't forget to do the tail lights.

I have a couple of daily drivers that I used it on and it works good for a month+ during the heat of the summer and upwards of 2+ months for the cooler months. As @mc2hill said, two panels is a good surface to do, but that can fluctuate according to the weather. On high temp and low humidity days, it may be one panel whereas for cooler or high humidity days, you might get 3 panels. I always consider the hood to be two panels in itself and have found that if I lay the way on one side, go to the other and lay the wax, the first side is almost always ready to be removed at that point. If the body panel is warm to touch and humidity under 40, which is rare for South Carolina, then I do a panel, wait about a minute and remove it and I only do 1/2 of the hood at a time. For the BG, it sure does make it pop and if it starts looking a little dull and you're going out for the night or weekend, you can put a coat a BG over the wax and it will look great for a couple of days. The link below is of the daughters Range Rover and she parks under trees at work. The America in that the tree sap does stick to is and I don't need to do much to get it clean up again. Although, I will say that it is sitting in my driveway right now and probably needs a bit of a touch up.

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Welcome to the Forum Andy.

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Nice wheels and I agree the power cone should be ideal.

I have a metro-like device that is old and on its last legs, the place that I have found it it really work great is for the outside mirrors. It is the one tool that has worked to get them to stop dripping. Given the condition of my old one and the point that I take care of the kids vehicles, I put one in the Christmas wishlist for the kids and they are pretty good at reading the hints, knowing it benefits them. The hint may not be overly subtle since it states “needed for Spoiled’s Mustang and Rotten’s Evoque that Dad details”.

My process is very similar to @red94chev but I let the vehicle sit for about an hour after I have removed it, usually over lunch, before applying the wax. I have found that by giving it about an hour, any spots I have missed are more easily seen and corrected. The missed spots are pretty easy to find with a double-soft wipe down. I found the towel into quarters and give over the vehicle. It should glide easily, but if you missed a spot either during application or removal, the towel will still a little, letting you look it and it and taking the appropriate corrective action.

I have done several Mustang wheels, based on the year or model range, GT vs LX, there are options. If you post a couple picture, I maybe able to tell you what I tried and what worked and didn’t work.

Hi @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin Juan, given that both of us get some pretty neglected vehicles to work, I really appreciate you taking the time to write up the details on your restoration. You did a great job on bringing the vehicle back to life and providing details...Thank you. we need to get the Carolina and Georgia contingent together. Thomson is about 1/2 way between Atlanta and Columbia and I bet we could get a good discount on a group rate at the Hampton inn for a weekend Meet-N-Greet any weekend or than Masters weekend... I am a little behind on the forum and slow responding, I’m in Greenville, SC meeting with folks from Dallas, Denver, Michigan, Tampa, New Jersey and Bangalore, but give some thought to a spring Meet-N-Greet.

I have used glass sealant and didn’t see a difference. What I have found that helps is making sure I go over them Ceramic Boost when I am doing the monthly maintenance wash along with the back window. For the non-ceramic vehicles, I use Spray Wax on both.

Good info and news - I know I provided feedback on the original small sprayers after breaking a few. I have also used the method that @Nickfire20 told us about and that has helped a bunch going forward.

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Please post how they turn out and if they are slick. I have the Chevy and GM floor mats in the Colorado and Terrain and made the mistake of trying Tire Shire on the ones in the Colorado - Wow, did that ever make them slippery. I did as @falcaineer noted and used Tire Cleaner to get it off. They really looked great with Tire Shine, but it wasn't safe to drive the vehicle that way.

Since you are also a fan of Red Vehicles, I've owned one or two myself. If you take a look at this thread it has vehicles from the last few years and if there is one that you like the results of, let me know and I'll provide the details or link on what was done to it. There are many shades of Red and options available for the care.

Welcome Andrew, nice looking ride. I am an absolute fan on Ceramic Paste Wax and when the Ceramic Spray Coating came out it really upped the options. The latest rendition of the Mustang was to remove the Ceramic Paste Wax that had been on it for 10 months and replace it with Ceramic Spray Coating and then after it sat overnight I went over it with Ceramic Paste Wax and then just to really make it pop for a couple of days, I hit it with Brilliant Glaze. With how your car looks in the picture, I tend to think it would look great and hold up well to the Vegas sun with CSC topped with CPW.

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Welcome Clint. We have multiple Florida members on the Forum and I was just in your area last week when I stopped by Clermont. My normal Florida area is in Dade City and Ridge Manor when I'm not in South Carolina. In case you ever run low on the basic supplies Don Mealey Chevy has a decent amount of product available.

Hi Juan, I've done two that had clear coat failures. The Mustang was a total failure and there was no saving it and a complete waste of effort to even protect it until we could get it repainted.. The Lexus was a different story, it had a clear coat that had peeled in multiple areas and after consulting the paint shot, it was recommended to protect the car since all it needed was a wet and and new clear coat. Here's the link to the Mustang and when you look at the first picture it is pretty obvious how bad the paint was. I looked for a picture of the clear coat peeling and don't have one. What I can tell you is the below the rear windows and above the door on the roof there were patches where the clear coat was gone. When I say gone, it was completely gone and you could catch your finger nail on the edges. I cleaned it up and put wax on it to protect the paint itself until it could go to the paint shop. In all honestly, it never made it to the paint shop as a buyer came along and offered the right amount - so we said Good Bye... If the paint itself is good or can be fixed with a wet sand, by all means protect it, your wallet will appreciate the difference between a clear coat replacement and complete repaint. The price difference can hit the $6,000+ range. Faded paint, not the clear coat, does not mean it has to be repainted, it could just be oxidation which according to deep it goes, can be corrected with wet sanding and then the clear coat provides the long term protect for the paint.

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