RayS

@stalebreadjr Great job on the engine bay and interior Matt. I appreciate the time to do the detailed write up since it gives all of us an opportunity to see how others are doing things and pick up a new method or two. I absolutely love your Floor Mat Rack and hadn't thought of using the plastic wardrobe hangers for holding them, great idea.

I'm behind on my posting of what I did over the weekend. If it wasn't for being a friend, I'm not sure I could have handled this one. Sometimes, you have to go against your better judgement and do what is best for the person. The first picture is as delivered, the second picture is after it had some "shine" put to it. The rains came in on Sunday, so I didn't get to take an outdoor picture before it departed. The Dodge paint is rather soft and there are plenty of stone chips for being a 2018. I offered to correct them if she picks up a Paint Pen and then I'll put CSC on it to try and keep it looking decent a big longer. At this point, I know the vehicle is clean so as long as nobody else touches it, it shouldn't be too bad to get get prepped for CSC.

My drink of choice is "Cold" Lemonade, is the "Cold" part that counts, not what the content is. Although, I don't hide the fact that I also like a nice glass of wine with dinner once in a while.

Excluding the windshield, all the other windows are tinted to maximum allowed by South Carolina law and I didn't like the way they came out with BG applied to them. After a couple of attempts and the many vehicles that have extra tint, usually applied by whoever and wherever, that I was better off sticking to the windshield since knew that there was nothing negative going to happen.

Did you do a 2 bucket wash and were using CB as a drying aid, also referred to as the Wet Application method? When I use Waterless Wash in the garage, I don't use CB at all. I either clean the windows with WW or more often than not, use Adam's Glass Cleaner. CB is it a product where less is more, which is good, that means you don't have to buy as much product.

I use three different applicators with Brilliant Glaze according to what I'm doing with it. For the inside of the windshield, I prefer the Interior Dressing Applicator: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-premium-interior-dressing-applicators For the body of the vehicle, I like the Patriots Wax applicator, it is so much easier to grip: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-blue-red-patriot-applicator For the odd places, somewhat rough surfaces, the microfiber applicator: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-microfiber-applicator-pads-2-pack The Interior Dressing Applicator works nice for getting along the edge of the windshield and I do that last by putting the BG on the edge and going around the windshield. It also washes easily to keep it clean and reusable. Also, I've found it easier to use a spray nozzle in the BG and spray it on the applicator, this seems to get it more even compared to using the squirt nozzle. That last bit of info was originally passed to me by @Rich

I have various vehicles that use ceramic and non-ceramic options, as @Nickfire20 stated, if you are going with ceramic, stay with ceramic, otherwise stay with non-ceramic. The windshields are all Glass Sealant with Glass boost applied every 2-3 weeks. Once we know the right combination, tolerance and results of the new ceramic glass coating wipes, I'll get that applied to at least one of the vehicles. The exterior mirrors, get Glass boost only, I didn't care for the results of Glass Sealant on the mirrors, so I just go with Glass boost and it seems to work very well. The inside windshield gets Brilliant Glaze and the other windows gets Adam's Glass Cleaner on the inside The non-ceramic vehicles, get Spray Wax on the outside once they are cleaned with Adam's Glass Cleaner. If it is right after a full wash, I just the Spray Wax as a drying aid on the windows, except the windshield. The ceramic vehicles get Ceramic Boost once the windows are cleaned with Adam's Glass Cleaner. When I am using Ceramic Boost as a drying aid, then I go over the windows at the same time that I'd doing the rest of the vehicle, except the windshield. Don't forget to do your tail lights, marker lights and 3rd brake light if exterior with the same products being used on the windows.

According to what you have for Shampoo and whether you're in one of the restricted (no car washing) housing developments, I would recommend you get both shampoo and/or Wash + Coat. It is my intent on one of my outdoor vehicles to alternate washes between Wash+Coat and Ceramic Waterless Wash as a drying aid and Shampoo + Ceramic Boost as a drying aid. The garage queen will get regular CWW and about once a month a real wash and CB.

Do you have any Revive hand polish or Brilliant Glaze? If so, try them. There are multiple methods, you just need to find the one that works for your situation.

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We've all gone though the learning phase even if it was coming from other products and we learned through reading and asking questions. As for your water spots, if Detail Spray won't take them off, the next thing is Waterless Wash or Brilliant Glaze. Sometimes the city water will leave water rings and if it sits too long will actually cause etching. Try the DS, WW and BG before doing anything else. Once you hit the vehicle with Brilliant Glaze, you'll want to do the entire vehicle because it will look so good. Just one note, BG will only make your vehicle really pop for a couple of days, but wow does it ever make it pop.

Yours is rather easy to clean and you have a few options. 1. If you have a camper and already have awning cleaner or awning soap as it is sometimes called. 2. Adam's All Purpose Cleaner, diluted to about 20% 3. RaggTopp cleaner is another good option 4. Car Shampoo and good brush, but not too stiff to leave scratch marks Once you've picked your method of cleaning, get it cleaned and let it dry. Look for any spots that did not come clean and get the corrected. Don't use APC full strength, it may leave a light colored patch. Now make sure it is out of the sun. Get your bottle of Adam's Leather Condition and apply a small amount of LC to a Red applicator and go over it in a cross hatch manner to get all the pits and valley's covered. Let is stand a couple of minutes and then go over it with a Microfiber towel and repeat as needed to get it even. Once you are satisfied, let it sit for a couple of hours and don't use the Surface Prep, just apply the CSC using a microfiber applicator to the tonneau cover, I split mine up in 4 sections to. Wipe each section down as per the instructions, even through the rainbow effect may be hard to see. Then leave it out of the sun for 4 hours and you are done. Finally, don't forget to post pictures.

Nice job on the SS., However, I don't understand this October and getting ready for that thing called winter? Thankfully Adam's gave us two products for those type of events, Rinseless Wash and Waterless Wash. Being from upstate NY originally, near buffalo, I sure know how the cold and snow can hit. I still remember taking the kids out for Halloween and we got 6 inches of snow that evening. I do not miss being up north at all. I also have no doubt that it is painful for you to have to put such a beautiful car into hibernation for a few months.

The first thing to look at is whether or not is it is clean. There are multiple cleaning options and you need to choose the right one for the material that your tonneau cover is made from. You can also check your manufacturers web site for their cleaning recommendations. Once the tonneau cover is cleaned, you can use a thin coat of Adam's Leather Conditioner. If you apply it thin and then wipe it down with a microfiber towel until it is smooth. If there are streaks or it look uneven, that is an indication that it was dry and needs to get a second coat or even third coat. You'll want to wait an hour or so between coats. Once the top looks good, going over it with Ceramic Spray Coating will give you the best results and longevity. The first picture shows the effect on the color as you can clearly see the coated dark side vs the lighter uncoated side. The next two pictures are tonneau's that I've recently done this with and the last picture shows how the water just pushes away once you have CSC on it.

Since everyone is showing off their white vehicles, the current project is pictured below. The engine should go in within the next month or whenever the Mazda 3 transmission gets completed and it goes away. The Mazda is not a project car, it is the son-in-laws sisters and needs a body shop or hand grenade... The 300's engine is built and the car is in the son-in-laws garage along with the engine, he just needs to get the time to get it dropped in, then I get it.

Leather Conditioner is my go to product for interiors and some tonneau covers.

It most certainly does.

Welcome Tate. What are you keeping shiny?

Welcome David. That is a good looking car.

Non-LED headlights get hot and can make a mess out of the wax. I am hesitant to put any sealant on non-LED headlights just because of the heat that some of them generate.

Thanks Chris, I updated my thread to note the recommended usage model.

CWW on the stainless steel appliances is awesome and then add some Brilliant Glaze and they look better than new.

If you soak them immediately they will be fine to use again on non-paint surface tasks. However, if the CSC dries on them, then they are still good for engine bays, exhaust tips and such. (Edited) to add Adam's recommended use model.

Flask filler

I'd recommend picking out a test spot and hitting it with the correcting polish and an Orange pad to see if it diminishes the cloud. It may be just far enough gone that it will need something more aggressive like wet sanding and the test spot should give you more information to go by. For reference, I didn't have any problem seeing the pictures at all, not sure why @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin had an issue - you might want to try again Juan. As for your preference for yellow, I can understand the desire for particular color vehicle, it's not like I haven't or don't have a few Red vehicles - ^^^Chris^^^ gives me a hard time when I say a couple, so I'll stick say a few for now. I have post of Red Through The Years and it sounds like you could do one on Yellow vehicles. If you ever find a real Camaro done in yellow it really did look sharp, as in 1969 or 1970 dark yellow.