RayS

I do miss a good Hoagie every since I left the north - at least I get trips up there every once in a while to get one. In the south you get Subway, Jimmy Johns and Substation II, but nothing like a Pudgies, Vincenzo's, Rico's. Anything from Williamsport, PA up through the Finger Lakes region of NY has some of the best Hoagies you could ask for and a lot of Pizza places that still have real brick ovens. Now, I'm hungry - Thanks Rich.

That is a good investment and beyond the action return on investment from not having to replace and reship leaking bottles the biggest investment is in customer satisfaction which is truly measured by repeat customers.

Hi John, I'll let the experts chime in on which ones are best to use when and where. However, the one thing I have really learned from this site is to always start with the least aggressive method first. That simple rule has saved me countless hours and left the vehicles in better long term condition.

Size matters

District champion

Plasti-dip applied properly works and looks good and it is usually rather easy to clean up when mistakes are made. I wouldn''t let the person who had the overspray touch the car again - it is obvious there was no concern about the vehicle or customer, but I would find out if he's an authorized installer and send it in. As for the removal, Dip Dissolver is best, Goo Gone followed and last WD-40. If it peels off and leaves a film like a piece of tape would, just go with the WD-40 and it will come right off. If you do need to use a plastic razor blade, I recommend a little Waterless Wash for the lube. Good luck.

No, it does not end, there are just short breaks between sessions.

Thanks for posting the pictures, now my daughter expects me to shine the pony on her Mustang. To be honest, I never thought about hitting it metal polish, but I guess that just means I've go to place another order - that sure breaks my heart 😉 Have no worries, it is time to put another coat of Ceramic Wax on it and I'll post the pictures when I'm done - the car not is not ceramic coated.

Fast mover (300k LE spray or for Chris - Air Force Aircraft)

Ahead flank

Welcome Paul, I use the Glass Cleaner, Sealant and Boost on multiple vehicles and like them. The Sealant is only used on the windshield and about 2 or 3 months and I go over it with boost every few weeks according to how much it rains. I also use Boost on the outside mirrors since we have a lot of humidity and dew. The rest of the windows just get clean with Glass Cleaner and I have not had any streaks. For the inside of the windshield, I use Brilliant Glaze and it keeps the film off the windshield and helps prevent it from fogging up.

Besides what @Firebuff17 said about warming it up, having a higher end hose reel also helps when you have a higher end hose like the Adam's one to go on it. I have the Eley portable reel and in the back of the house the wall mounted one. They are expensive, but after replacing the $50/$75 ones every couple of years, I decided to go and at least get one with a long warranty and absolutely love it. I use quick connects on all my attachments and the 100' foot hose fits with not problem. I especially like that is has a built in adjustable brake so you can lock it or set the tension.

From afar

I have done multiple vehicles with BG first and BG after and the longevity has been the same for me either way. The one advantage to BG first is that it will hide minor flaws and personally, I like the little extra pop gives it. I also use BG on the weekends if we are going out or to a show as it will really make the vehicle pop. I see you have Ceramic Boost in your collection, I have done a couple of vehicles, including my truck with Ceramic Boost over American and it looked great and lasted for a while. From my various vehicles, I've used HGG on some and Ceramic Boost on others and am completely satisfied. With the various products that you have, you can look around and see what others have done and picture your top coat. As for the actual top on the Mustang, according to which variety you have, there are multiple options for keeping it looking good and reconditioning it if that is needed. Good luck with the truck and car and don't forget to post pictures.

Don't forget to put the bottle of wine in the fridge before you start so you can sit back and sip it while admiring what you accomplished.

Point break

Absolutely beautiful, congratulations on the win.

@thomasfxlt first let me welcome you to the forum. As @Rich indicated, the top should be cleaned and conditioned and whether you go with the Ragg Topp kit or 303 Convertible kit, they will both do an excellent job. From the picture your top looks to be in pretty good shape, so I think you'll like the results of either. With both products medium humidity and the sun are your friend to get it smooth. My preference is to put the product on in the garage and then move the car into the sun for a few hours. I try not to let the top get wet, even from dew, for 24 hours after I condition it and I don't put them down for a couple of days. As for the wax, I have used Americana, Patriot and Ceramic and after working with Ceramic a couple of times, I'm sold. I wax entirely by hand and the Ceramic takes a little more work, although not much more, but the results are fantastic. No matter which wax you go with, when you are taking the car out for a Sunday drive or to a show, knock the dust off with Detail Spay and then go over it with Brilliant Glaze and it will really pop. To the see the results of a top clean and condition and Ceramic wax, there are plenty of picture in this thread on a Mustang restoration I recently completed. The Mustang took 3 coats to get from Grey to Black and a paint job to actually make it Red again.

I get laptops and computers that I recondition and donate to students in need. I've found a little WD-40 followed by Waterless Wash and Interior Detail spray will make it look like new and smell good. The GooGone tends to be a little harsh on many of the laptop boxes and APC will leave some residue that takes a bit more work with WW to get evened out. For the sticky spaces, just put some WD-40 on a cheap cloth and then rub the area. You shouldn't need much force, but you may need to do it two or three times according to thickness of the sticky stuff and roughness of the case. Packing tape used to cover a business card, especially gorilla tape that has been on there for a few years is usually the worst to get off. Don't be afraid to use a plastic razor blade with WD-40 or WW as the lube if you find something really stuck on there. Once the sticky stuff is gone, I do the entire case and keyboard with Waterless Wash and using a Waterless Wash towel, always spraying WW on the towel and then wipe the area. The screen gets two cleanings, first with Glass Cleaner spraying the towel and wiping the screen and then with Brilliant Glaze. Finally, I go over the entire case and keyboard with Interior Detailer, spraying the towel and wiping it down. The interior brush works good for getting between the keys and if you don't have one of them, a real soft 1/2 inch paint brush works. The most difficult place is where the screen closes and for that I use Interior Detailing Swabs as they tend to fit in there perfect - I wish I had of found them 10 years ago just for this purpose. Since I am a Mac person, the cleaning technique for a Mac is a bit easier with the standard, slick case. Pre-2017 with the illuminated Apple on the back, all I ever needed was Interior Detailer and then GC and BG on the screen. 2017 and newer Mac's react better to WW for the body and then the screen still does good with GC and BG. On some Pre-Retina Display Macs where you see the keyboard marks on the screen, they will clean up with GC, but you also have to clean the keys. The marks aren't indents, they are the dirt and oils from your fingers that are sticking to the screen. Following these steps, the systems come out looking new, minus any real abuse, and there is no residue left over that is sticky. For those who dilute Rinseless Wash to make your WW - I cannot confirm whether or not that works the same, since I have never tried it.

Here lies

Like @falcaineer I have had some good luck with Auto Trader and more recently with carvana, https://www.carvana.com/

Although the pollen count was at 10.5 today, I had to knock to get the vehicles back to being Red instead of Pollen Yellow. The pollen is already accumulating again, but I know they were clean earlier. The truck was so bad it required a 3 bucket wash - I had to change the rinse bucket during the wash. The Range Rover and Malibu were not that bad.

As a former resident of Kodiak, Ak - Welcome to the forum.

Band leader

Welcome Andy, What are you keeping Shiny? We do appreciate pictures.