cwp2016nd

It is a 2017 GTI. I should be doing the entire car this upcoming Sunday provided the weather is decent. He has some light scratches all over the car as well as scuffs from whoever did the debadging. A one step polish, sealant and glaze he should be good to go!

You're right on that one! Luckily the paint was pretty beat up which means I didn't spend much time on it. I used an AIO and did about 2-3 passes around the truck. It brightened/cleaned the paint and left some protection behind. This was the perfect example of when to use an AIO.

Follow the steps Shane provided and you'll be in business. The Tar X is only necessary if there are tar deposits visible on the paint. If there are traces of tar you can't see, the clay bar will pick them up.

Its always nice to look at I will be detailing the entire vehicle (2017 VW GTI) next Sunday, but he had a meet he was going to so I spruced up the wheels and tires for him quickly. I say quickly, but it took an hour LOL. Those wheels were very intricate and very neglected.

It turned around much better than I expected! The area around the driver side integrated rubber mat had some permanent staining, but other than that the color came back pretty well. Even the seats changed color from grey to blue! Thank you Sir. I definitely busted my butt on this one. It has just about 200,000 miles on it and I can guarantee you it has never been thoroughly cleaned before. The wheel wells had a LOT of dried mud stuck in them as well as the door jambs. The wheels/tires/wheel wells/door jambs alone took me over 1.5 hours! Thank you!

I use the standard pump sprayer with Iron Remover. I don't see a need for the foaming action to be honest. The Iron Remover clings fairly well and provides a long working time to break down ferrous metal contaminants. Be prepared to get gallons of it either way you go. The F350 I just did used almost the entire 35oz sprayer worth of IR.

As everyone knows, this is a tried and true product throughout the detailing community. I put it up against an acid based wheel cleaner and it did very well! I would say they had equal cleaning abilities. The acid based was ready to aggitate immediately while the Adam’s I waited until the color change was done. BUT, the Adam’s had more lubrication while scrubbing. Here’s a nice bleeding picture as well as a dramatic before and after ? The tires were dressed with tire shine.

Since the truck is white, the difference isn’t as dramatic in pictures as it truly is in person. I restored shine and gloss back to the paint as well as cleaned up all the baked on pollen stains. Before pictures, iron decontamination, bumper polisher, trim restorer and after pictures in that order.

Okay guys, it took a total of 8.5 hours. I’m taking the truck back to his house now. I will post before and afters when I get home ?

I’m all set for tomorrow. Plan on starting this at 8am sharp. I will update with pictures tomorrow night.

It sure looks sharp! Job well done Sir.

A lot of times suds = lubrication. Actually in most cases. That is why we use foam guns and foam cannons while washing; to reduce scratching and increase lubrication. While it doesn’t need to be shaving cream thick, suds never hurt anything ?

I use a foam gun and approximately 3-4oz in that as well as 3oz in my 3 gallon bucket. It has worked well for me and never have a problem with "not enough soap". I use an adjustable foam gun so I can turn the setting from very little foam to max foam which is overkill.

To be fair, I did this same process on my Miata which is half the size (maybe a little less than half) and it took 4 hours taking my time and taking breaks frequently. Just a nice detail on a Sunday afternoon. If I really grind and work constantly on this one I think 7-8 hours is achievable. Saturday I will know for sure.

One thing you should keep in mind with ceramic coatings is they are still prone (like any other finish) to collecting traffic/road film. I highly recommend using a powerful soap with a PH ABOVE 7 to help strip the grime off the paint. After a while it will begin to collect and make the paint not as bright. Use caution while using these soaps, don't work in direct sunlight if possible. If you are in direct sunlight just work one panel at a time but I strongly recommend it. To clarify, by "traffic/road film" I am talking about the stuff that leaks all over the road from other vehicles. Brake fluid, transmission fluid, antifreeze, engine oil, hydraulic fluid, chemicals from trucks etc. When it rains, all of these fluids come to the surface and coat your car. The higher PH soap will actually strip these things off the paint whereas a PH neutral soap will not.

That's what I'm thinking as well. I'll be able to wash it fairly quick, then clay while it's still wet. Paint prep is quick and the AIO will be quick as well. The interior will be more time consuming honestly since that is where he wants the majority of the work done.

It's possible they are, but I have quite a bit of experience doing this and just being able to DO instead of think cuts down on time tremendously. Just need to work fast, efficient and hard I will post an update when I finish the job on Saturday. As a side note, when I use an all in one polish I don't work it like a typical polish. I may do 3-4 passes but I use much faster arm speed than normal. It will restore shine and gloss as well as lay some protection behind.

It's hard to tell in the picture if that is wetsanding marks or not but I do see the cloudiness. If it is wetsanding marks it can easily be buffed out.

They do have them, they're just not on the website. Call to order them. I did just that many months ago and have a few at my disposal

Hey Guys, My coworker has an older Ford F350 he is getting ready to sell. I told him I detail cars and would gladly do it for him in order to make it easier to sell to potential buyers. He told me he is mainly focused on the interior but he did spring for an interior/exterior package. He has helped me out a bunch in the past with my personal engine stuff (I work at an engine shop) so I cut him a big discount, but I am still getting paid for this Here are the pictures he sent me. I will be starting this around 8am Saturday morning and hopefully finish up around 3-4pm. Here is the process I am going to do. Clean wheels/degrease tires & apply Sio2 sealant on wheels Degrease wheel wells Strip wash with shampoo that has a PH of 10-11 Clay mitt entire vehicle Paint Prep spray Polish lightly with an all in one type product Top with spray wax Polish glass and use Rain-X on windshield Vacuum interior Deep clean carpet/headliner/seats Clean/degrease all plastic pieces Dress plastic Brilliant glaze on inside of windshield Degrease doorjambs Spray sealant on doorjambs Tire Dressing (Tire Shine) VRT inside wheel wells Polish chrome bumper trim Trim restoration on black plastic by tailgate Give it a once over and call it a day It should be fun. I will post pictures of before and after once I am done with the job. It's a big truck but I plan on getting done in 7-8 hours. Wish me luck!

Waterless/rinseless wash for glass cleaning, brilliant glaze for the inside of a windshield, rinseless wash on interiors.... I've seen and done a neat little trick to clean dirty interiors quickly and effectively that have leather seats. You spray the surface down with APC, let it dwell for a minute or so, then wipe it down with a microfiber that was soaking in rinseless wash. You will have a very clean seat with minimal effort after that

Ditto! I recently bought a 32oz bottle of highly regarded compound for $1.11 an ounce while Adam's heavy compound is $2.50 per ounce. When you're detailing quite a few cars an 8oz bottle doesn't go very far. If you're an enthusiast I can understand. I asked a while back about bigger bottles and they mentioned the "pro-line" was supposed to be out around April. I guess that never happened.

I've only been around here for a short while, but no. The majority of members are enthusiasts

I plan on doing something similar to that. I will play around with different pads/compounds and see how they remove different sanding marks. Everything from 1500 grit to 3000

I'm really not a fan of topping products like that.... I'd say use buttery wax on it's own being it doesn't last a while. Then you can go back to hydro2. If you haven't checked it out yet, Hydro Blue my Mckees 37 is a fantastic product as well. I got a gallon on sale for around $55 and it lasts a long time.