stalebreadjr

Chances are you've encountered tire blooming and you don't even know it. Blooming is what causes a tire to look brown. That new set of tires that you have to scrub over and over again to get them to look black, or the tires on a car you detail less frequently that are closer to the color of chocolate than they are black. Modern rubber compounds are becoming increasingly complex, far more than most people realize. Tire manufactures are continually pushing the envelop with chemistry and design to create tires that can keep up with the demand of todays cars and drivers. Higher mileage, more miles per gallon, better all-weather traction, or high speed and cornering as cars get better, faster, more intense the tires they roll on must change to keep up.

We expect increased performance from our vehicles and tires are an integral part of that, but rarely do we take the time to understand what exactly has changed about tires other than going from bias ply to radial in the late 1960's.

What does this all have to do with your tires turning brown? Read on.

ANTI-OZONANT
An anti-ozonant is probably something you've never heard of. Its an organic compound added to rubber materials that prevents, or at the very least, slows the deterioration caused by exposure to the elements. Anti-ozonants are used as an additive in most all of the exterior rubber and plastic parts to one degree or another, but they are most prevalent in tire manufacturing. The anti-ozonant additive keeps plastics and rubbers from becoming dry, brittle, oxidized or cracking. It does this by preventing the surface of the material from oxidizing and keeps the material pliable.

Thanks to anti-ozonants in rubber compounds we have have high mileage tires, performance tires, and everything in between. Without it sports cars would shred tires incredibly fast after just a few high speed turns or long track runs where the tires were heated up. Even your daily driven commuter car would need tires far more often as the sun and heat slowly rotted away the rubber compounds.

TIRE BLOOMING
Tire rubber compounds are designed in a wat that allows the anti-ozonant to continually work its way to the outside of the tire and as such, continually keeps the outer surface and sidewall pliable and resistant to oxidation.

Once anti-ozonant reaches the outside of the tire and is exposed to air and moisture it oxidizes, the result being a brownish residue. The term for this ugly brownish tire look is 'tire blooming'. Just like metals left exposed to the outside world will slowly begin to rust (oxidize) as it is exposed to water and air, so does the anti-ozonant component of the tire rubber.

Making matters worse is the use of mold releases in the manufacturing processes. These lubricant type chemicals provide a non-stick surface for the inside of a tire mold. The mold release chemical bonds with the tire and hold anti-ozonants onto the surface of the tire.






While some people will point to mold release as the primary and/or only source of tire blooming, it is in fact often times only a part of the problem. Even after the removal of mold release a tire will continue to push anti-ozonant to the surface allowing the brown residue to return.
 
THE ROLE OF COLOR CHANGING WHEEL CLEANERS
Wheel cleaners used to dissolve metallic contamination (Deep Wheel Cleaner among them) can have an accelerating effect on the oxidation of anti-ozonant. The reaction you see when brake dust it turned to a reddish slurry by Deep Wheel Cleaner or a similar product is, in a very simplified way, oxidation. The chemical reacts with the metallic contamination and begins to dissolve it.

Tires that have not been cleaned properly before or have been left uncleaned for long periods of time will have substantial amounts of the anti-ozonant built up on the surface of the tire. When an active wheel cleaner comes into contact with this buildup it will accelerate the browning or blooming. Because of this its imperative to regularly scrub tires to remove the buildup of anti-ozonant and 'dead' rubber - think of it almost like exfoliating your skin. If you are a regular user of Deep Wheel Cleaner or similar color changing wheel cleaners for their ability to remove stubborn brake dust then be sure to spend an extra couple of minutes scrubbing your tires as well.

Does this necessarily mean you should discontinue the use of Deep Wheel Cleaner? No, but it should be used with the understanding that the tire needs deep cleaning after the wheel to remove any residues or prevent tire blooming acceleration as a result of the oxidation process. Abrading the tire sidewall to remove this will prevent the blooming in the first place - the reason your sidewalls brown, but your treads don't is that the treads are continually worn away by driving so the surface never is allowed to sit long enough to display blooming.
 
DON'T BLAME THE SILICONE
For years the prevailing thought has been that silicone based tire dressings are the culprit for brown tires. Read any number of forums and the first thing most casual detailers will point to is the choice of tire shine the person with the issue uses. While silicone can be a messy and sticky solution to making your tires shine it isn't always the main culprit of the brown issue.

Most browning related to silicone will be due to the silicone holding dirt and debris on the tires surface, not the tire itself turning brown. This type of browning is very easy to remove as silicone dressings also remove with scrubbing and a degreaser like All Purpose Cleaner.





Don't think this means you should immediately start to treat your tires with tons of silicone, there are still a lot of reasons it's not an ideal way to dress your tires, but don't believe the story that your choice of tire dressing is the ONLY source for the brown residue. Silicone and water based dressings can be used and the tire can still exhibit blooming... its the tires surfaces and/or lack of heavy cleaning more than it is anything you've treated it with.
 
REMOVING THE BLOOMING
Removing the blooming is really a simple process - the use of a good degreasing agent, like Adam's All Purpose Cleaner, and a stiff bristle brush should be more than enough to remove even the worst blooming within a few treatments. Be sure to rinse the tires extremely well with clean after each cleaning to remove any chemical buildup.

Once the brown residues are removed regular cleanings with All Purpose Cleaner shouldn't need to be as aggressive or frequent, but if you notice the blooming returning just scrub well. The application of a quality water based dressing like Super VRT or a dressing low in silicone content like Adam's Tire Shine will help slow the reappearance of blooming by providing a barrier between the tire surface and the environment.
 
IT WILL COME BACK, ITS JUST A QUESTION OF WHEN
Because anti-ozonants continue to work their way towards the outside of the tire even a car which sees very little use or doesn't have very dirty tires may experience tire blooming when eventually exposed to oxidizers due to lack of cleaning. As such it is recommended that even relatively clean tires be treated to a semi-regular scrubbing to remove the anti-ozonants from the outer layer of the tire sidewalls.

Each tire will have a different amount of blooming it is prone to. Some tires may bloom very slowly, while others will bloom almost before your very eyes. The amount of anti-ozonant and the way the tire is designed to push it to the surface will determine how fast or slow it happens. Regardless, one thing remains true - regular cleaning and dressing of your tires will prevent or at the very least minimize the appearance of brown on your tires.

I said it when released and I’ll say it again: This scent in a shampoo needed a gallon release! It really does smell great. 👍 

The apple cider car shampoo is the best!  I love the smell!  I did suggest it back on Aug. 9th 2018....so How about a free bottle or something?  My other suggestion was cinnamon donut....maybe, next year?!?

My travel kits vary according to where I'm going and what I'm doing.  As @falcaineer pointed out earlier, be mindful of the heat and cold and take it the house or hotel where you are staying.  
 
My personal travel kit has Waterless wash, detail spray, glass cleaner, glass boost, interior detail spray, eco APC and most importantly Brilliant Glaze.  4 borderless Gray, 4 Waterless wash towels, 4 double soft towels, 2 microfiber applicators, 2 Patriots wax applicators, 2 plastic razor blades and finally 4 junk towels.
 
The waterless wash is either Ceramic or regular according to which vehicle we are taking.  The Eco APC can be used for a wipe down of the wheels if needed along with the exhaust tip, it also handy when someone spills a soda in your vehicle...grrrr.  The go to products are Waterless Wash and Brilliant Glaze since between them they will clean the car and make it pop.  The windows get washed with glass cleaner, but added detail spray gives them a very nice reflective property.   The bug or worse tree sap that gets on your vehicle will come with waterless wash and plastic razor blade.   The Patriots wax applicators are my preferred method of applying Brilliant glaze to the exterior of the vehicle while the microfiber applicator works better for the inside of the windshield.
 
The Florida trips require more supplies since I do multiple vehicles when I get there.  I fill the 8 bottle bag with regular products, a crate with towels and applicators and I recently got a softside bag which will carry and ceramic products.  

My day job is awesome!!
Hanging out with some fans at SEMA

Depends on distance and how long I'm going to be gone.  
If it's just to a local show or cruise in, then just Ceramic Boost, or Detail Spray and Glass Cleaner, and a couple of micros.  
For Carlisle (3 days)  I take the Ceramic Boost,  the Ceramic Waterless Wash, Glass Cleaner, Tire Armor, and Leather Conditioner and micros and applicators. 

Howdy gang!
 
I use to be on here years ago when I lived in N.J. as fdresq4.  I had even attended a session that was held by a member here at the time,  @lawson4450
 
Anyway, a friend introduced me to the new Si02 Waterless wash recently and figured I would jump back on!
 
Thanks!

I wasn’t thinking “daily”.. this is my vacation/road trip list!   Daily,  I keep a travel size DS (Someone graciously gifted me😉) and MF in my trunk!! 

I usually have either CWW or DS (depending if car is CC), ID, Tire shine (can’t  drive with brown dull tires!!), and APC....also interior and exterior MF’s.  I also have small ac vacuum I’m able to fit in adams trunk organizer. 

All I'll say is careful carrying them in the car if you experience extreme temps. 

Hi, Eric. Welcome to the forum! Lets see some pics of that silverado!
 

Nice Ray! Great pics and details of work completed. 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the responses from those that have been there already.  Once I got started this morning I decided to take the suggestions and learning opportunities as far as possible today.
 
Not only did I do the running boards and mud flaps, I did the tonneau cover, bed rails, black section of the bumper and tailgate handle along with the bug deflector, which really turned out great.   I had completed a deep clean of the tonneau cover yesterday and did three coats of conditioner after the deep clean, so I figured why not seal it in with Ceramic Spray Coating.   The cover is a hard rollup cover. 
 
Here are the after pictures, just ignore the top of the Bully Step which needs to be pulled apart and plasti-dipped since the white isn't white anymore.  I tried 3 different angles  to get a picture of the bumper and either the sun or reflection from the garage door are showing as white lines on the bumper. 
 
The truck was thoroughly washed yesterday and I had planned on doing the deep clean on the Tonneau along with my 6 month regiment of adding 3 thin coats of conditioner, applied one hour apart. The truck was left in the garage overnight, so this morning I wiped down the running boards and mud flaps with APC just to make sure they were clean and without road grime.  Then I followed up with a wipe down of Coating Prep followed by Ceramic Spray Coating.
 
I really liked the look, so it was time to take risk on the Aeorskin II bug deflector.  Another round APC, Coating Prep and then CSC.   After seeing how well that turned out, I decided I was going to do the tonneau cover.  The tonneau did not get the APC or Coating Prep since I didn't want to take the conditioner off, so I just applied the CSC.  I'm not sure how it will hold up, but it sure looks great for now.  The tonneau and bug deflector have been on the truck for 2+ years and outside the entire time, they still look good since they've had proper care.
 
The bumper and box rails were first prepped with Black Trim Restorer and then because they are so porous, I went with the CSC on a microfiber applicator and then a wipe with a towel.   The tailgate handle and bumper had some areas that almost turning gray, so I'm pleased with how they came out.
 
@Rich  I credit the shine Revive Hand Polish with Ceramic Paste Wax for the outstanding shine that it currently.  I was going to do the Mustang next, but I seriously think that I'll strip the truck, make sure it is well polished and hit it with CSC.  The Mustang can wait until I see how the tonneau looks after a couple of weeks and then I will decide if I want to use CSC on the top of it.
 
 

I was able to cleanse myself today after doing the Blue F-150 a couple of weeks ago and made the wife happy by doing two of our Red vehicles.   
 
I have been using Ceramic Boost on the Running Board and Mud Flaps on the truck for a couple of years and it seems to work pretty good in keep them clean.  The mud flaps are Weather Tech and they do not clean up the same way the floor mats do, but some APC on them works rather well.  For the Running Boards, the rubber treads by the doors get Tire & Rubber Cleaner, but nothing else to keep them from getting slippery.
 
My thought is go use Ceramic Spray Coating on them for the longevity and am wondering if anyone else has do so?

You're ready! The garage sign is essential to the Ceramic Spray Coating. Can't wait to see your results from the job!

Update number 2!
Got my vacation out of the way and final order is on the way.  I think with my stock already (mostly from mystery buckets and organizers), my 1st order and this last order, I have all that I need to get this puppy done!  Wish me luck and competence!   Now I'm just looking for a dip in temps and a couple days of free time.
 
Order 2 details:
Adam's Block Applicator - 2 Pack
Adam's Apple Cider Car Shampoo
Adam's 21" Metal Garage Sign ( Not needed for this job....but you know )
Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener - 32oz
Adam's Blue Hex Grip Applicator
Adam's Revive Hand Polish
Adam's Strip Wash
Adam's Iron Remover - 16oz
Adam's Detail Spray 2 Pack
Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner - 16oz
Adam's Small Barrel Brush
Adam's Tire Brush
Adam's Red Foam Cannon
Adam's Trim & Lug Nut Brush
Adam's Pro Tire Hex Grip Applicator *Tire and Trim*
 

After seeing the videos I’m reminded that the BEST way would be to have Ashley do it for you. Alas, she has moved on from Adams ☹️

This is actually the one I saw, finally found it again.  In this one he doesn't have anything covered and uses a pressure washer, it also has the "VRT milk"procedure in it.  I'll be sure to document my process and hopefully will not have any negative outcome. 

The second video was one i watched and 1 with Adam himself, I'll have to find it.  My vehicles are 2016 dodge ram 1500 and 2018 jeep compass, no after market, no modifications. Thanks for the thread and other video, checking them out now Chris.  Thanks everyone for your input! 

So, I've watched several videos from the Adams team about cleaning and polishing the engine bay, but I'm still left with the question "what do i need to cover or avoid spraying with water?"  In all the videos it is just stated that newer cars are "bulletproof" to spray the engine bay full on with light pressure water hose or pressure washer. 
 
I'm sure I'm not the first to ask so maybe you guys can point me to a thread in the past where this was discussed or give me your method.   Both my vehicles are 2016 or higher. 
 
Thanks in advance! 

The polishing will depend on the condition of your paint. Always do a test spot (2x2 section on your hood works well) and start with the least aggressive (Revive Hand Polish). If you think you need something more aggressive move your way up (Finishing Polish -> Correcting Polish -> Heavy Correcting Compound) until you are satisfied with the results you're getting. This is to avoid cutting too much clear coat unnecessarily. Since your vehicle is new, the paint is more than likely in good condition, so you probably won't need more than the first two listed. See Adams Polishes youtube channel. They have great tutorials. They especially have great tutorials for paint correction.
 
Yes of course, that would be a great idea! Just so you know you don't want to use Paint Sealant on any of the trim or glass - just on paint. Then you can use H20 GG on almost every exterior surface. I just did a white vehicle this weekend with paint sealant and followed up with H20 GG. It's going to look better than when you bought it. Here are some pics:

 

That Brilliant Glaze is fantastic!! I get so many compliments on the finish. Is that a new 2020? Is that special paint? I have never seen a white car with that much depth in the finish!
You can see it there in the side of the car. Anyone can make a black car look good, but make a white car look good is a whole different animal. And I have to admit it is not me, it is all the Adam's products. The polisher and polishes, waxes and that wonderful glaze. The ceramic wheel coating really keeps the wheels looking great. Thanks to Adam's for another award. 

Nice!

Thanks to the great Adam's products  (and my detailing) we are now a perfect 6 for 6 in car shows.

I see we have more that we can teach you about Adam's products, they aren't just for cars.   Here are a few examples:
 
Brilliant Glaze will clean a mirror and reduce the fogging
Brilliant Glaze will leave your stainless steel appliances looking sharp and you can touch them up with Detail Spray
Glass Cleaner on windows is so much better than than the blue stuff you get in wally world
If you are going to wash anything with vinyl, aluminum or fiberglass, Adam's Shampoo works like a charm
Have anything that needs to be cleaned but you don't want it to get wet, Waterless Wash is the answer
APC will clean stains in your sink and work on any product
Wax on the shower walls or better yet, Ceramic Spray Coating will keep them soap free, just don't do the floor
Glass Sealant on the Show Door
Ceramic Boost on your Shovel and underside of the lawnmower to keep the grass from sticking
 
The list goes on and on about alternate uses for Adam's products.