Dan@Adams

Hi @kaj41354, I just spoke with Kourtney and she said the developers are working on it, but no ETA yet. Sorry for the inconvenience!

Yeah, they aren't meant to be an air freshener, but more of a cleaner with a little bit of scent while you're working. The Interior Detailer scents tend to dissipate quickly for me, just like Odor Neutralizer, since they're trying to clean and eliminate odors, rather than mask them with new smells 🙂

Quick update: The Cedarwood scent is very pleasing to me. It's subtle and not overpowering, but I do like it a lot 🙂

I would agree that most Japanese cars I have worked on have been fairly easy to paint correct with soft clear coats - with the exception of the Nissan GTR, which has an extremely hard clear coat (at least the early model years...I worked on a first-year to the U.S. 2009 that even had a warning sticker under the hood What color is your Mazda 3? I don't think too many car washes out there would have a sealant strong enough that clay and compound would not remove (Iron Remover may not necessarily remove a sealant since it is not a strip wash and mainly targets iron content in the paint). If it is black, I would try a small area with a White Foam Pad and Polish/Finishing Polish to see if the paint is indeed soft like chops1sc mentions. It's possible that the compound is marring the finish and putting in smaller swirls while it removes the larger imperfections.

Yes, for Hambo and anyone else, a slightly damp or damp towel method with water can aid in removal of CS3, Ceramic Boost, and even ceramic coatings. You do not want the towel dripping wet with water - just a few mists like Dave explained is enough to help out. Ceramic Boost and CS3 can be a little more tricky on darker colors like your dark grey Camaro, and sitting out in California sun is most likely making it a little more difficult to work with too. If you can, try to apply them in the shade, use the product sparingly, and work in smaller areas at a time, a quarter of the hood instead of half of the hood for instance. One full-pull trigger spray should be enough to wipe down a quarter of the hood if there is light dust, or a few sprays if there is a little more dirt build-up. SiO2 products like Ceramic Boost and CS3 do require more "working into" the surface than something like Detail Spray or Waterless Wash too, so you will have to wipe the product more than you are used to if you use Detail Spray a lot.

Bruce! Great to hear from you! How is everything on the west coast? I hope you are staying safe and shining up some rides.

While we certainly do not recommend smelling chemicals all day, our chemists do try to make the scents as safe as possible in most cases. Stronger chemicals that we would recommend that you refrain from smelling would include UV Ceramic Paint Coating, UV Ceramic Wheel Coating, UV Ceramic Spray Coating, UV Leather & Vinyl Coating, Ceramic Spray Coating, Ceramic Coating Wax, Wheel Cleaner, Surface Prep, Hand Sanitizer, and Fabric Protector.

I really like the Eucalyptus Mint, but my bottle of Cedarwood should be here tomorrow - Jackie in our shipping department said that Cedarwood is her new favorite, so I'm anxious for my shipment to arrive 🙂

Hey everyone, we launched 3 new products today and an update on a current formula! Adam's Interior Detailer with Microban Cedarwood Scent, Adam's Enzymatic Cleaner, Adam's Stainless Steel Cleaner, and an update to Adam's Glass Cleaner - now with a small amount of sealant protection added, similar to the Glass Sealant and the Part B Glass Coating Wipes! You can check them all out HERE: https://adamspolishes.com/collections/new-just-in Thanks for looking! We hope you enjoy these new products!

Yep, I using the Eucalyptus Mint Interior Detailer with Microban on electronics like my cell phone, tablet, and computer keyboard too. I spray it into an Edgeless Utility Towel first and then wipe it onto the device.

It's not finished. Lol.

My second favorite new-gen GTO, and I almost like it more than my own! Yours is definitely cleaner than mine though - I don't go as thorough on the undercarriage or engine bay as you do 🙂 Thank you for the share as always Dave. Not sure how I missed this thread, but your humble apprentice bows down to you, Master Jedi

Awesome! Keep us posted if the issue comes back up.

Absolutely embedded from previous washing before he brought it to me. My mind was boggled when I was wiping with Waterless Wash and clean waterless wash towels and the streaking and spots did not reduce at all! I should have clarified that. I will edit the post now 👍

The White Foam Pad would not correct as well with the blue Compound, so I would stick to the new Blue Foam Pad, or the old Orange Foam Pad if you still have them. To me, the new Blue Foam Pad operates very similar to the orange pad; however it does have improvements over the orange pad. The cell structure of the new blue pad allows the chemical to spread much more evenly over the face of the pad, rather than have it remain blobbed-up in 3 or 4 spots where you apply the pea-size drops of Compound. The new blue pads also handle heat better, meaning they do not get as squishy as the orange foam pads do once they get some warmth in them. I understand your hang up on the word "compound", but I think you will find that the new blue Compound works and operates very similar to the old orange Correcting Polish. The new Compound does cut a little more, but it is still very easy to use, very low dust, wipes away easily, and finishes down great on most colors using the Blue Foam Pad, as Dave mentioned above. I'm using it with our Microfiber Cutting Pad and the One Step Pad on a very neglected black C5 Corvette at my house right now, and with as much pressure and speed I'm having to use to cut through this clear coat, it is leaving significant haze, but the White Foam Pad and white Polish took care of that no problem. Out of the hundreds of cars I've detailed in the last 15-20 years, this one takes the prize for most neglected and difficult vehicle I've ever worked on 😮 If you want to see some pictures, check out my thread here:

Hey everyone! I've been working on a Corvette this past week in the evenings. It's for a friend's uncle. I think it is safe to say that in 20 years of detailing, this is the most difficult vehicle I have ever worked on. It's GM gloss black on a C5 Corvette - most will agree that this combo requires a lot of work to get right, as the clear coat is very hard and can be tough to get it to finish down just right. It looks like this particular vehicle spent most of its life under a car cover, that was pulled on and off the vehicle, creating a lot of deep scratches in the process. Below are a few Before/After shots and explanations so far. Compounding is now complete, so I will move onto Polish and then our UV Ceramic Paint Coating Kit this weekend. These first 2 pictures were how the car showed up to me, almost as if soap and water had been left to bake into the surface at some point. These pictures are AFTER washing and drying with Waterless Wash and clean waterless wash towels - it was far too cold and rainy outside to do a bucket wash, and there actually wasn't much dirt...this was all "baked in" to a degree. In other words, all of this spotting was so dried/etched into the surface that Waterless Wash did not remove it: This was after claying the passenger-side hood, roof, front fender, door, and rear quarter with our Fine Grade Clay: Claying did remove the majority of the streaking, spotting, and staining on the surface. In this photo, the passenger side was after clay, driver side untouched yet: Here are some before/afters of Compounding different areas of the Corvette. I initially started with the Blue Microfiber Cutting Pad and blue Compound, but that combination was not strong enough to accomplish what I wanted in a time-efficient manner, so I moved up to the One Step Pad with blue Compound. For those that have not used it, the One Step Pad is a hybrid design microfiber and wool pad that has strong cutting capability: The rear panel had spots of clear coat over spray in several areas, as did the lower portion of the passenger front fender. It appears these two areas and a few more appear to have been repainted at some point and not fully sanded and buffed out. Deep vertical scratches in the passenger door from another door hitting into it. There was paint transfer too, but the clay bar took care of that: It looks nice in this picture, but there is still significant haze in the paint when looked at under the Color Match LED Light. The White Foam Pad and Polish will take care of that though: Stay tuned for more. I will try to update this thread throughout the weekend

Haha no way! You got them fair and square. In related news, I placed my order on the 5th and it shipped out yesterday - less than 2 business days for processing! The team is catching up on orders, and we thank everyone for your patience over the last month and a half or so 👍

Wow, our customers are amazing! You guys and gals rock - it sold out in less than 24 hours!

CS3 and Ceramic Waterless are indeed similar products, but they do have their differences. To clear up some confusion, both can be used on coated and non-coated vehicles alike. Ceramic Waterless was initially made to serve as a ceramic-infused waterless washing and maintenance product, fitting in with the rest of the white bottle ceramic line to keep things together and easy to understand, more advanced than our normal product line if you will. CS3 was released a few months back as a very easy to use product for the consumer/hobbyist that might just be getting their feet wet with ceramic products. This is why we put it in the normal product line label, along with Ceramic Spray Coating - I think that anyone that has used either product will agree that they are much easier to use than applying a full 2-3+ year ceramic coating 🙂 You can think of Ceramic Waterless as being a Waterless Wash with ceramic-infused protection in it, almost like Waterless Wash + Ceramic Boost = Ceramic Waterless. To answer Cedric's initial question (sorry I missed this thread when he posted it last week), CS3 has just as good cleaning and protection, but it also has shine enhancement too. So you can think of it as Waterless Wash + Ceramic Boost + Detail Spray/Brilliant Glaze = CS3. These are not the actual combination of chemicals or makeup of the products, but this is the easiest way to explain them using comparisons. You are not losing any cleaning ability as a trade-off for increased shine - my SS had more than light dirt a few weeks ago from a rainstorm and I cleaned it with CS3 just to see if it could handle it. In my mind I wanted to at least do a Two Bucket Wash, but it was too cold outside. I used I believe 5 Blue Waterless Wash Waffle Weave Towels and they got filthy, but the car turned out great. I took the Color Match LED Light to it afterward and noticed no increase in swirl marks anywhere (there are a few swirls in some key areas of my car right now since I purposely haven't done much to it other than wash, boost, and CS3 all winter to see how the UV Ceramic Spray Coating would hold up). Three or four of the towels were used for lifting dirt, and the fifth towel was used to dry and make sure there was no streaking. I folded them in half 3 times, giving 12 working 'sides' per towel. As a side comment in regards to percentages, some may get caught up in the numbers (I'll admit that I do sometimes too), or think that the higher the percentage of a chemical such as SiO2, the better the product (Ex: "This product has X% but this one has Y% - it has to be better!"). Yes, it might mean a little more durability, hydrophobic behavior, etc; however, just increasing the percentage higher and higher can also make a product more difficult to work with - streaking, smearing, and so on. There is a lot of chemistry and testing involved, and for a product like a waterless wash that we want to work safely and easily, making it a very high percentage may not always be the best option 👍

In keeping with tradition, we just launched a new limited-run Cinco De Mayo Detail Spray! It's Sweet Jalapeno Lime Scent and limit 4 per person. We also put up 3" Green Holographic Stickers (going very fast) and got a restock of our keychains too. You can check them all out in the Just In section of the website. CLICK HERE TO SHOP NOW! Stay safe and keep on shining!

I agree with Brian. H2O Guard & Gloss is primarily used as a wet application method, but the dry application with a damp towel works well too! The current version (which has the red "With Hybrid Technology" on the front of the label) can now be used with a dry towel very similar to how Detail Spray is applied too; however, with your Camaro being a darker color, I would recommend using two towels - one damp and one dry - to avoid any smearing or streaking. For me, I'll use the Air Cannon first to quickly remove most of the water from "high drip areas" like side mirrors, gas cap, trunk/door jamb/light seams, and grill inserts, but I do not dry off the entire vehicle. Then I'll apply H2O Guard using the wet method, one panel at a time.

I would agree with others in that unless there was haze that was not fully removed from the Glass Coating Wipes, they will not impact functionality of any cameras. If you have any white Finishing Polish or Brilliant Glaze, put a drop on a plush microfiber towel and wipe back over that specific area, to make sure there are no high-spots from the coating. I would also check any wiring connections inside of the front bumper, especially if there were high winds and rain. A piece of tire flew up from a truck in front of me and hit one of the parking sensors dead-on in the front bumper of my car - it didn't come unplugged, but it did bump the whole housing loose, so it was constantly beeping like I was going to have a collision until I pulled off the road a 1/4 mile later and snapped the sensor back into place (luckily nothing broke). Maybe check the adaptive cruise settings and auto high beam settings in the vehicle settings - perhaps something accidentally reset to a default configuration?

A quick update: We're getting close to being caught up with orders at the moment, and hopefully you have noticed processing times are decreasing some! The shipping teams (we have been running two shifts) have made great progress in processing the overwhelming amount of orders that came in, and we're now at 3-5 business days for processing orders rather than 7-10 days. We waited to put up mystery buckets and launch the new Towel & Pad Revitalizer until we started to catch up on orders, so as to not overwhelm the shipping teams even more. The oldest orders in the system right now are at 3 or 4 days old (not counting back ordered items or very large bulk orders of home care items). We thank everyone for your patience and business!

Good memory reward to Steve! But the McLaren was still hiding out back then too...just back in The Shine Stop:

Hi there, what browser are you using for the forum? Are you on a mobile device, desktop, or laptop? You should not have to keep resetting your password each time. I would recommend to clear your internet cache settings in your web browser, then login to the forum using your Username (it will no longer accept email address for login), and then enter your password and select the remember me check box. Let us know if it's still a problem after that, and we can reset it and email you the new password if necessary. Thanks!