Dan@Adams

Employees and moderators are excluded from all contests 😎 Thank you for everything you do Chris!

Strip Wash may not be 100% necessary but it would help to remove any current wax layers or weaken any sealants on the surface before claying and polishing. Yes you do want to use Surface Prep before applying the Ceramic Coating. A 4oz bottle of Surface Prep is included in the Ceramic Paint Coating Kit, which should be enough to prep at least 3-4 vehicles.

Yep, you may find that some areas may not need the microfiber pad, or that if you do use the microfiber pad you might be able to skip the blue foam pad. Just make sure to do a small test area first on the hood or trunk since every vehicle can be a little different 🙂

Hi Tom, if you have Ceramic Spray Coating on your vehicle, I would recommend CS3 for the drying agent since it's in the same product family (ceramic-based). Detail Spray won't hurt a coating, but you're adding a different type of polymer on top of a ceramic coating, so you may notice a slight degradation in performance in terms of water-repelling behavior.

That should be perfect! Our Finishing Polish was updated and renamed to just "Polish" back in November. It's still white in color to match the white foam pad. We released "Compound" at the same time, which replaced both the Heavy Correcting Compound and Correcting Polish in your picture. The orange Correcting Polish you have finishes down very nicely with the orange pad in most cases. On a brighter color like your red, or silver, white, etc, the white Polish (or older Finishing Polish) may not be needed. It is typically used on darker colors where the orange combo might leave a tiny bit of haze behind, so the white Polish is the step to get things looking as flawless and most gloss as possible. You can certainly use it on your car, but you may not notice too much of a visual difference as you would on a darker color.

Hey Seth! Absolutely! We recommend about 2-3oz of Wash + Coat in the Foam Cannon. Fill the canister mostly with warm water first, then pour in the 3oz of Wash + Coat. Carefully thread the barrel on and then shake it up a bit to mix the shampoo around evenly. You can see it demonstrated in the video below: Edit: Embedded a better video link!

Hey Chris, thanks for stopping by the forum again - that's a beautiful truck you have there! I'm very sorry for the loss of your father. Losing a family member to cancer was one of the hardest things I've dealt with in my life, but it's very admirable that you are helping out your mom however you can too. We're happy to have you back, keep on shining!

Hi Seth! I would recommend to do a test spot with the orange Correcting Polish and Orange Foam Pad first, as you may not need the Heavy Correcting Compound and Microfiber Cutting Pad on the whole vehicle. I paint-corrected a friend's red 2001 Camaro SS several years back and some of the car had been repainted. Most of the factory paint was medium range in terms of hardness, and I was able to polish the majority of it with the orange combo, so I would say you would be fine with the products you have and may not need the newer Compound in this case. If your old bottles have been stored in a relatively room temperature area and still seem ok after a good shake, I would say to use them up first. The Heavy Correcting Compound will make some dust, and it will most likely leave a bit of haze, so I would definitely follow it up with at least the orange Correcting Polish and Orange Foam Pad before moving into the ceramic coating process. If it's a dark color like black or blue, I would recommend our White Foam Pad and white Polish as well, but if it's red like in your avatar, you may not need to do that final finishing polish step.

And a quick reminder to comment in this thread by Midnight Mountain Time to be entered into this week's giveaway!

Thank you for your business and patience! Our shipping team has been incredibly overwhelmed, but they're trying to ship as many orders as possible each day! Hopefully we'll start catching up soon, but we're still at 7-10 days for processing orders...I don't think we've ever been this busy in the history of the company 😮

The Hand Polish can be used to bring out more gloss and depth to the surface. As for a pre-cleaner, what he meant is that it can be used to essentially polish away any types of Detail Spray or waxes on the surface to then re-apply a new layer of protection. The Hand Polish isn't a replacement for claying the surface, but it could be used in between claying if you want to take off a few layers of wax or even possibly cut through Paint Sealant without having to put a machine polisher to the surface. A clay bar or a clay mitt will still be more effective at removing bonded contamination more quickly and safely than polishing the area multiple times by hand to try to get the same result (and possibly grinding in the contamination with the foam hex grip applicator). I hope that clears things up 👍

Hi there, welcome to the forum, and beautiful Z06 you have there! I see some other nice rides hiding in the background too! What black pad are you using? Our dark gray (some people call it black) pad is zero-cut and made for applying Buttery Wax or Paint Sealant, so it will not remove even very faint scratches. I would recommend trying the White Foam Pad and Finishing Polish in those areas. Also keep in mind that C5 and C6 Corvettes have fairly hard clear coats, so while the scratches might seem very light, they might take a little more effort to remove. If you've already polished 4 or 5 times per panel - were you using a more aggressive compound each time? If so, you may want to consider how much clear coat is left on the panels too...I would hate for you to strike through the panel, but at least the Orange Pad and a Porter Cable isn't too aggressive of a setup. My opinion, maybe try to go over a few of the fine scratches in one small area with a finishing polish to see if they improve. Use a new plush microfiber towel to remove the polish, with very light pressure, and flip the towel to a fresh side after doing the initial wipe. I love our Borderless Gray Towels for this - we use them almost exclusively on a lot of high-end and delicate paint auction vehicles that we detail at Barrett-Jackson. Use a light mist of Surface Prep to aid in removal of the polish residue if necessary. If you can get the finish to 90% improvement or more, that is usually when I'll stop and ceramic coat the vehicle. There comes a point where trying to get it near 100% perfect can drive you bonkers or end up hurting the finish in the process. I hope that helps out! 🙂

The new version has been out for a few months now and the name was changed to just "Hand Polish" 🙂 https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish

Hi there, unfortunately I don't have any experience with that particular product. As a reminder, this forum is primarily for Adam's Polishes products, so we try to limit discussion of other brands here. I would recommend to send a followup email to them, and to search to see if maybe they have any type of groups for their products on social media like facebook. I cannot speak for their products directly; however, most ceramic coatings can be layered, but you may not be receiving much more protection with additional layers. With our coatings, we recommend doing no more than two layers, with about 1-2 hours of cure time in between the first and second layer, then allow it to have the full 24-hour cure time indoors after the second layer.

Stunning! One day I'll have a G8 or Ute to complete my Holden collection...one day many years from now most likely 😂 I deleted your duplicate post as requested too 🙂

Yep, they're producing so many bottles that sprayer style will depend on what we have in stock at the current moment until new shipments of bottles and sprayers arrive.

Good evening everyone! We just uploaded our fifth episode of One Take Tuesday! Sorry we missed last week - it's been incredibly busy at the office. This episode will have a slightly different format, to discuss some of the new products we have shifted into our manufacturing process. Adam's Polishes had the ability to change our focus in manufacturing and created Hand Sanitizer, Home Surface Cleaner, and Hand Soap. With every two bottles sold of Hand Sanitizer, we added a third bottle to a donation pot. We were then able to donate crates and cases of Hand Sanitizer to local and national First Responders as well as Emergency Service Workers. Adam's Polishes is extremely proud to show our appreciation for the Heroes on the front line during this COVID-19 situation. We are thankful for their hard work and sacrifice to keep everyone safe. From the Adam's Polishes Community we want to say, "Thank You!" As with our previous One Take Tuesday Videos, anyone who comments in this thread by Midnight next Monday will be entered to win a small kit of the products in this week's video - Hand Sanitizer, Hand Soap, and Home Surface Cleaner. Only one entry per person, but feel free to comment as much as you want! Once a winner is selected next week, we'll move this thread into the Detailing Library section with the other videos. For more in depth content and education, make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Leave a comment or question to engage with one of our Adam's Team Members. Thanks!

Thread moved to appropriate section.

I will agree with Rich; however, if you have the newest version of H2O Guard released about a year ago (has a red oval on the front of the bottle that says "With Hybrid Technology") it is infused with some SiO2 and would be perfectly fine to use as a topper for a ceramic coated vehicle.

Moving this one to the Feedback section. Where did you have these bottles stored? Some of our chemicals can lose dye coloring from exposure to direct sunlight over time.

Thank you for your business @PacificNWBuckeye we certainly appreciate it!

Iron Remover is a more thin formula that spreads more evenly and works very effectively, but both chemicals are very strong, so you do need to exercise caution when using either 👍

Hi Chris, yes I would recommend to dilute Deep Wheel Cleaner at least 1:1 for iron decontamination. Do not use it in direct sunlight, only decontaminate one panel at a time, and do not let the cleaner dry onto any surface - rinse very thoroughly!

As Michael mentioned, we would recommend to contact Rupes directly for any warranty or repair work. It could possibly be a few different things, as mentioned in the original replies in this thread from 2016 - power outlet, extension cord, machine internals, a short in the power cord of the machine just to name a few. My hunch would be that if the machine is powering on and off after a few seconds, it could be an issue at the power cord connection where it goes into the handle. If you gently move the power cord a small amount, you may see the machine cut in and out as it loses and regains power. I have witnessed this on a few of our Swirl Killer Polishers, so that is why I mention it. It's a fairly easy fix if that is the case 👍 I cannot find any account in our system under your email address John - was the machine purchased through Adam's Polishes? We stopped carrying the Rupes 15 more than 2 years ago, so I'm assuming that it was purchased from another source?

Hi Greg, Sorry about that! It looks like the Wishlist functionality might be disabled at the moment. I'll talk to the team to see if they can look into it and post here as soon as I hear anything back!