ledger64

My guess would be that you are not logged in.

Follow the directions for the Bissell and use the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner.  I use it on my carpets in the house with great results. 

I keep all my detailing supplies inside my house.  Living in south GA, it gets quite hot in my garage.

I recommend you move them inside. No worrying that way about whatever temps you do or don't see. Would hate to read a reply from you in the future that starts with, "If only..."

As mentioned, there should be no problem. Matter of fact I think freezing temps do more damage, but you can worry about that in the winter lol
 
But just as reference, here where it can get up to over 120 degrees, I keep my americana paste wax indoors, and also heavy correcting compound. The paste wax was by recommendation, and the compound had separated into liquid and solid, but once i brought it inside, it went back to normal. 
 
All my other products have been fine so far in the garage.

I understand your frustration, and I appreciate you trying to trouble-shoot the issue with us.
 
At this point, I think there is either an issue with the application procedure, or the product is defective, or maybe it was stored exposed to higher temperatures.
 
This current version has been out for awhile, and people have found that the residue is easier to remove than the previous version.
 
The PS should be applied with a clean, dry applicator or pad.  The applicator or pad should not be primed with DS.  Doing so just adds water, wax and other polymers into the applied layer, which is not what should be done with PS since it is a solvent-based product.
 
This is seen when washing out the applicators or pads, the leftover sealant does not dilute with water, it takes a strong cleaner like MRB to clean the sealant out.
 
I would try a new application, with a clean, dry applicator and no priming, applying it very thin at 3-4 small drops for an entire hood, and let it cure out for 20 minutes or so.  As you progress with the application, you would apply less product for each additional panel, since the sealant gets built-up in the applicator.
 
 
Sorry for the confusion.  The PS starts to cure as soon as it is applied, as the solvents start to evaporate away.  This curing then continues, whether the residue is removed after it hazes, or left for a while and removed later.
 
In theory, the curing of the very thin layer of sealant that actually links and bonds with the paint (the rest gets removed as residue) would be slower with the residue left in place for an hour of more, since the excess product on the surface would slow down the curing, since it still contains solvent, and the extra layer of haze would slow down the process of polymer linking and bonding.
 
In reality, there are so many variables (application thickness, temp, humidity, air flow) that it is not really possible to say exactly when it has cured enough to be layered, so the general rule of a hour is recommended, whether you remove the haze after a few minutes, or let it sit for longer.  To be safe, I would recommend that the "hour of cure time" begins when the residue is removed, unless you happen to leave the residue on overnight.
 
Many people have reported that leaving the residue on longer actually makes removal easier.  But with this new version that should remove very easily, there may not be much difference between 20-30 minutes and letting it sit overnight.

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 
 
Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.
 
sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 
 
Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.
 
sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

This is why I no longer use Tire Shine. VRT only for me.

The consensus seems to be the new Americana performs just as well over time as the Patriot. I think the Patriot is just more premium because of it's additional carnauba. However, like said above, G&G over Paint Sealant is great for a DD, and far more cost effective. It's also easier to apply because you would just apply using the wet method after a standard wash. But whatever floats your boat, as ultimately, it's your decision.

hmm...I would just put down the sealant and then follow up with H20 GG a week or so later. That should make things POP just fine
 
Keep wax for a show car. 
 
Glaze is a filler application that I would only use if I needed to make something look great for a temporary application like going to a car show or meet.

agreed 100%. or learn to live with them.

Those look like paint gouges down to the bare plastic underneath. I'm assuming that is a front bumper from the picture? 
 
Unfortunately those will need to be filled in with touch-up paint. I would try to fill them with multiple thin layers, allow to cure, then if you're comfortable with it, wet-sand them down, and then polish back out. Wet-sanding can be tricky and damaging if you sand down too far. 
 
Having the area sanded, re-primed, re-painted/blended by a body-shop would be the best solution to making it look new again.

I personally own a Flex 3401. The original backing plate CAN'T be used with 5.5" pads. I was able to order the smaller backing plate that Dan mentions. Flex makes this smaller plate and is sold under the Flex name. Functionality of the smaller backing plate is equal to the original, except the advantages of a smaller pad! It's relatively cheap (considering the price of the Flex) to change to the smaller backing plate. Heck, the savings from buying 5.5" pads over 6.5" pads will pay for the backing plate quickly. I hope this helps you.

Additionally,  I do tend to find better control and usability with the smaller dia. plate and pads on the flex.  Its amazing how just an inch smaller really makes the unit that much more versatile.

Manual transmissions are the latest in anti-theft devices...most kids can't drive them so my Camaro is safe...LOL

A suggestion:  
leave the panel wet from the Rinseless washing, and spray the HGG over it Spread the HGG over the panel with a damp towel (I soak it in the Rinseless wash bucket, then wring out some of the water).  Dry the panel This would save a step or two.

No.  I have been using it that way since I beta tested it, and have had no issues.

I'm with this guy. What is a manual transmission though, are they still being offered in cars/trucks these days?

I think this marketing campaign shows that the traditional gear head is slowing dying.  Changing of the times.  American muscle is dying.  Exotic, and flashy are in.  It shows that you can put a paint job costing thousands on anything, camber the wheels so they wear uneven and make the exhaust sound raspy and be the coolest thing since the other side of the pillow.  Not that there is anything wrong with it but I guess its just not for me.
 
There is a new generation out there,  marketing is geared towards them.
 
Bring me back,
Gas powered lifted trucks with 15" - 16"  wheels on big 35" tires 
old school lowered vehicles that performed as good as they looked
Rear wheel drive cars with v8 motors that have a manual transmission. 
A lumpy cam and a throaty exhaust.

I think this marketing campaign shows that the traditional gear head is slowing dying.  Changing of the times.  American muscle is dying.  Exotic, and flashy are in.  It shows that you can put a paint job costing thousands on anything, camber the wheels so they wear uneven and make the exhaust sound raspy and be the coolest thing since the other side of the pillow.  Not that there is anything wrong with it but I guess its just not for me.
 
There is a new generation out there,  marketing is geared towards them.
 
Bring me back,
Gas powered lifted trucks with 15" - 16"  wheels on big 35" tires 
old school lowered vehicles that performed as good as they looked
Rear wheel drive cars with v8 motors that have a manual transmission. 
A lumpy cam and a throaty exhaust.

When i use a paint sealant whether it be Adams or a different brand i always use HGG when I follow up with a 2b wash or a RW.  No need for any wax at any point.
 
My fav maint. regimen on a vehicle that has had a sealant applied is:
 
1. clean the wheels and tires.  rinse entire vehicle with hose
2. presoak with a WW
3. Rinseless Wash followed by a quick hose rinse off
4. Apply HGG while car is still wet to all exterior surfaces (except tires)
5. Dry
6. Enjoy
 
I can complete this process is roughly 30 - 45 mis depending on the soil level
 
waxing anything other than a show car = waste of time with the level of gloss in todays sealants.

Don't worry Stephen, someone usually screenshots Instagram specific things and posts them here before I get a chance. This thread is a perfect example
 
Sorry I don't have permission to say anything further about this announcement yet. This is something the marketing team was working on that I wasn't aware about. 
 
I believe more information will be released this Friday.

My experience with fb has been rarely seeing a glimmer of worthwhile content hidden in an acre of useless garbage! 

If you don't have Americana or another paste wax, HGG on top of Paint Sealant is great for a DD. I apply HGG once every 6 weeks over the top of my Paint Sealant, and Paint Sealant gets applied twice a year.