camaro2ssblack

Skip the sealant if its a garage queen.  You paid $250 for a wax, use it as a stand alone LSP like it was intended to be used.  Putting a sealant underneath is a waste of time & money and there's always the possibility that you will induce damage on your paint during application and removal of the sealant.  If your paint is corrected and stripped, apply Patriot and sit back and enjoy.

Very well could be. Does it feel as soft as it did new? Does it have ragged edges or loose threads? I switched to a plush type drying towel instead of waffle weave because of the durability issues and loss of softness that most waffle weave towels experience (not just Adams). Plush is also safer on the paint (in theory) in case you encounter a random particle of dirt while drying.
I would really like to see Adams offer a plush type drying towel with similar softness and construction of the border less blues, it would be a winner.

Good choice.

Everything went perfect Nick, I was very pleased. Carrier dropped it off to me around 48 hrs after leaving Colorado and absolutely no damage on the ride. All it needs is a good bath.

Rex - you are on the right track.  Although it would probably be fine, I might hold off on using any detail spray with wax additives (such as Adams Detail Spray V2) until you have allowed the new paint to fully cure.
I recommend a sealant if the vehicle is a daily driver.  Two coats of a sealant will be a good layer of protection and then you may add a coat of glaze and/or wax of your choice to boost the shine at your discretion.

Maybe I stand corrected then... It then seems that I only used cheap knobby mitts in the past then, because they swirled from day one despite thorough cleaning and care. The ones I bought were from local stores, but were not cheap. But it might also be due to the nature of that mazda clear, like Mook once said, if you just sneeze ... it swirls!
 
And no, just because Adams sells a product doesn't mean I think it is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I do think it is just backed up by the best customer service and support. There are products I have tried and didn't like or think were that good, and many of those are now gone from the Adams store.

+1 - perfectly said.

That knobby mitt will not cause swirls (smh). Geez it's amazing what people say on here.
Quality wash media and good technique will prevent swirls, whether it be wool, microfiber or foam.
 
There's a simple reason why you would use a wool mitt on the top 1/2 of the car , it's because it's the most expensive and delicate wash media so you want to use it on the least soiled areas of the car. The other type mitts are more "disposable" so they get used on the lower halfs and dirty areas.
There are some high quality knobby microfiber mitts out there. If Adams sold them, the two responses above would have been way different.
Just my $0.02.

Chris, mitts like that are generally frowned upon because there are so many junk-quality ones out there. They are usually what you would find in big box stores and auto parts stores.
 
If you take the time to search out one that is high quality, then they are a perfectly fine option for washing. If you find/found one at the local Auto Zone....I'd save that one for cleaning plastic fender liners.

That knobby mitt will not cause swirls (smh). Geez it's amazing what people say on here.
Quality wash media and good technique will prevent swirls, whether it be wool, microfiber or foam.
 
There's a simple reason why you would use a wool mitt on the top 1/2 of the car , it's because it's the most expensive and delicate wash media so you want to use it on the least soiled areas of the car. The other type mitts are more "disposable" so they get used on the lower halfs and dirty areas.
There are some high quality knobby microfiber mitts out there. If Adams sold them, the two responses above would have been way different.
Just my $0.02.

A little tip, only fill them about 2/3rds full as they can be quite heavy when completely filled. I absolutely love them for waterless wash. Perfect amount of product laid down with just a few pulls.

The 36oz. sizes were discontinued because there were too many sku's vs what the 36oz. sales were providing.  Add in, that in most juices at that size, Adam's margin probably wasn't quite where it need to be to justify stocking Labels, Sprayers, Bottles, etc, just for one size.  To boot, the straw extensions for the 36oz Foaming heads were discontinued.
 
Offering a higher quality bottle, that is unlabeled, in that size, allows people like me to fill it with the Juice I actually need in a bottle that size.  APC, DWC, GWC.  I do keep one with DS in it, for clay purposes.

I have used them for a few years and they have their pros and cons. I only use them for products that are meant to fully saturate the surface, like waterless wash. I don't like them for lightly misting products (like detail spray) because a full spray lays down too much product for my liking. If you try a half spray, you lose the fine mist qualities and get an uneven spray pattern.
 
However, they are built to last and work as advertised.

Lol. Back to hand polishing...

Lol. Back to hand polishing...

Lol. Back to hand polishing...

+1.

I have used them for a few years and they have their pros and cons. I only use them for products that are meant to fully saturate the surface, like waterless wash. I don't like them for lightly misting products (like detail spray) because a full spray lays down too much product for my liking. If you try a half spray, you lose the fine mist qualities and get an uneven spray pattern.
 
However, they are built to last and work as advertised.

Sounds like you dry rubbed clay on your paint until it started to stick, then threw away a perfectly good bar lol. Maybe it could have been a bad batch but I've never heard of that. Always use lots of lube while claying and never clay outside the area of the lube.

Welcome Ryan. I think you will enjoy claying and the results you get. Clay after a thorough wash and remove the clay residue before moving to the next step. You can remove the residue in a multiple of ways - 1) remove it as you go with waterless wash, 2) rewash the car after claying, or my favorite method, 3) do a rinseless wash after claying. After removing the residue proceed to apply your favorite wax or sealant. You will be amazed what these three simple steps (wash, clay, seal) can do for a cars finish. Claying will require no more strength that what is required to wash or wax, same motion and pressure. Good luck and have fun with it.

Think about that one for a second. I'm confident the correct answer will become clear.