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I just pulled out the BSG again. After a few months of not using it and instead trying out Buttery and Americana, I decided to lay-down some BSG on top of a coat of Americana. And I needed to coat the glass, too. ...all I can say is WOW! I love this friggin stuff. Its amazing. Its the easiest thing to use you could ever imagine and it leaves a super glossy and slick finish. Its so impressive, it makes me wonder why I mess with anything else. I mean, I know there are other products that provide other protection and BSG is no substitute for wax and blah blah blah...I just think that when it comes to pure shine and slickness, it is second to none. Adam, you have a home run with BSG...ever think of selling samples of it? I would love to give some to my brothers, dad, etc.

I believe that the spray glaze is best as a final step, regardless of the wax being used.

Agreed...I'll know better the next time around. All this is more reason why there should be instructions on that card that's in the container.

I used the APW for the first time yday. I can say that you definitely want to go light with the product. I usually follow the idea that if a little is good, then a lot is better, but that is not the case here. It required a lot of effort to remove, but I am convinced its b/c I used way too much. However, it still wasnt _that_ hard to use. Much easier than some other pastes i have used. Also, I didnt use the white towel b/c I hadnt washed it yet. I used te blue MF and perhaps that led to the need for so much elbow grease when removing the wax? Perhaps, but i am still sure that I used too much... I have yet to see the truck in natural light, but even still I am impressed. the finish is slick as snot and looks awesome...cant wait to pull the truck out of the garage

from that pic, it looks like it is only a clear-coat scratch. at best it would only take a porter cable, orange pad and some Swirl & Haze remover (followed by the rest of the PC process with FMP, etc). At worst, it would take some minor sanding (again, as someone suggested, checkout the Junkman videos on wet sanding). all in all, I wouldnt be too concerned about that one...

Jim, I know that some have created a diluted VRT/water solution and used a spray bottle to apply to certain areas. I dont do this, but I think you can find some threads to this point. I have used those cheap foam paint brushes to get into some tight spots with VRT and I think its easy and effective.

I have wanted a pro to answer this questions as well, but I can speak from my own experience: it is not a problem to get VRT on a painted/finished surface. With a little DS and a microfiber towel, it comes right off. Like any other dressing, its slick and may take a little effort to wipe it off, but it does come off. I guess I, too, would like the opinion of someone who understands this issue at a more detailed/technical/chemical level...

I drove a prius (as a loaner) for about a week. it was not cool. felt like I was driving an over-sized golf cart. and once I got on the interstate, it really sucked...I just new i was gonna get squashed like a grape in that pos... Also, if there is such a thing as negative torque, that Prius had it. no acceleration whatsoever...lame

I have a VRT story of my own...sorry to hijack the thread, but it does fit-in. Preparing for the driving I was gonna do for the holiday, I spent a ton of time detailing my truck. Interior and exterior. It looked great! But....I ran out of time and had failed to put VRT on the tires. Five minutes before we started the drive (350 miles in 85* weather), I decided to take a chance and apply the VRT. I thought this might backfire on me, and the VRT would sling all over the sides of my truck, but....at the end of the trip, not a single drop had been slung! the tires looked perfect and so did the rocker pannels, etc. I was really amazed that this worked...not to doubt Adams stuff, but just b/c I have been burned by so many other tire dressings in the past.

Isnt there a concern that using a vac will blow some debris - from the junk it has been used to suck up in the past - on to the finish?

Chris, you ever try removing some of the VRT with a MF? I use a non-Adams MF to do this on my interior and would certainly use the same on tires.

I cant seem to make up my mind on which I prefer: shiny-as-can-be and almost greazy looking or a more flat or matte black. Its like it depends on my mood or something. So what I usually do is lay the VRT on nice and thick, live with it super shiny for a couple days and then go over it with a MF to remove some of the gloss...

I assume the same rules apply to the triple white towel? Can it be washed with the blue MF? I dont really care if it turns blue as long as it performs the same as when it was white... Junkman, you ever do the 'boil MF in vinegar water' thing? I have a couple that are losing their fluffiness (wow, thats a word I hope to never use again).

I vividly remember my Java final (back in 97). It turned out to be nothing related to the language and instead focused on recursion and the math that supports recursion. Looking back I see why the prof did it that way, but it was a shock to not be tested on any of the semantics of Java itself.

here's my good news: I have Americana Wax sitting on my doorstep waiting for me.

One tip that helped me to overcome my frustration was along the same lines of using too much product...the tip was to not try to use the same pad for the entire vehicle as it may become saturated with product and cause the pad surface to not effectively touch the finish. I think it was that 'Valentine' guy who said that he either focuses on one area of the car and washes the pads before changing areas, or he uses multiple pads as he goes... There are lots of good tips and techniques described on here. As I am still a novice with the PC, I get the feeling that using it is a lot like playing golf...it's all about technique.

Am I the only one who finds the jumbo pad to be too big? Its great for the roof and hood of my truck, but its a bit unwieldy when doing the sides... Am I the only one?

I agree with whoever said to stay away from HP. My last two laptops were from HP and I have had issues - which I attribute to poor design (IMO) - with the power supplies on both of them. That being said, I would go with (in order) Toshiba, Dell and Sony. The Sony is pricey, and Im not sure its worth it. If $ is not an object and you are set on a PC (not a Mac), I would go with Lenovo/IBM...even though they have had a dip in quality recently, they still use the best components and have clean design...IMO

Sorry if there is a different thread which addresses this. How does this compare to the other Adams waxes in terms of performance and applicability?

this is the best use of Adams products I can think of. I love this...its what sold me on Adams in general

you know, I still receive emails for the threads I posted in prior to disabling the auto subscription. I dont get emails for the new threads that I post in...

I think Adams used to sponsor ToyotaNation.com. That's where I first heard of Adams. I think the forum has really gone down lately in terms of new content quality, but still a good resource.

I would certainly be a member of that support group...but I would NEED more support than what I could give. We could find some old junked car hoods and try to bring them back to life. Actually, that's not a bad idea....good therapy...let me make some calls...lol

Perfectly stated! It took me a long time to come to this realization, but I am much happier now that I have. I love to see a 'perfect' showroom finish, but that's just not practical for me. I have too many other things to do to spend every free hour chasing swirls and webs. I use the 80/20 rule here - get to a point where the finish is 80% the way you want it, and learn to get over the other 20%.

wal-mart does suck. I hate it in every way and for many reasons...