blcksilv08
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Posts posted by blcksilv08
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On 7/1/2019 at 4:27 PM, pilatti1 said:
Needing some supplies from Adams I was excited to see they had a trailer at Barrett Jackson this past weekend. Not only was the staff friendly & knowledgeble but the deals were great as well. I just wish you were in New England more ofter as I love all your stuff. Keep up the great work
Thanks for coming and seeing us at the auction! Glad we could help you out and get some deals for you. We definitely are trying to spread out and cover more shows, it's just tough logistically. Do you remember who you talked to at the show?
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Really depends on how much it builds up and what the dust consists of. If it's pollen or industrial waterless or rinseless will work with caution. Like @falcaineer said, waterless is my go to followed by detail spray or the new ceramic waterless (which is amazing by the way).
- LuckyKorean and falcaineer
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22 hours ago, Angelo said:
Well I tried washing my Denali in the shade with the same results. It was 57 degrees outside. Complete shade and rinsed immediately upon finishing and again followed with the Metrovac as soon as I put down the hose. I am attaching some pics to show you guys. If I go back over the entire truck with waterless wash it looks perfect. first pic is the tailgate..second is the left side of bed. Pic of the shady lean to and the fourth pic is of the right side of bed. Last pic is after it is cleaned off with waterless wash.
It is irritating to rewash the entire vehicle. Our water is not that hard and normally doesn't leave any water spots. I just spent over a grand on the ultimate kit and my results are poor. I must be doing something wrong. I have watched all of the videos and read all the directions. Any help would be much appreciated...if I call Adam's right now it would not be pleasant.....
Just trying to get some additional info that may help. How much time would you say it takes to make it around the entire truck while washing? I understand that's a ton of paint area to cover. Also, how much car shampoo are you using? It happens on all the vehicles you wash? I know I have fought this before on large vehicles like the Adams Freightliner and crew cab long bed trucks.
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2 minutes ago, Ls1transam said:
This one was a pain. I don’t have any aggressive clay and I’m assuming this car had never been detailed before. After washing and iron decon. Thepai t felt like sand paper, literally. I had to clay, clay and clay some more.
Been there my friend! It feels so right though when complete. Not sure if it will let me insert this video clip or not from my phone..... Was it like this?
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9 hours ago, Ls1transam said:
I polished a 260k+ mile Corrola.
Those are some of the most satisfying jobs. I've polished everything from Veyrons to rare original cars to new cars and the results on someone's high mileage daily drivers are the best turn around for the amount of work put in.
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20 hours ago, CoonHound693 said:
The coating turned out great. It was just a pain with the static charge and fibers being left behind. I was a little worried about the fibers marring my fresh correction. But the end result is great. Just was curious , thought I was doing something wrong. I never applied anything ceramic before.
Some static is normal and ceramic definitely feels a bit different to remove compared to traditional sealants and waxes. Glad everything turned out great!
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On 3/9/2019 at 9:42 AM, iono11200 said:
I have used Adam's Visco Clay Bar Kit for the last 2 years with good results. This year I've noticed Adam's Fine Grade Clay Bar. It is obviously cheaper and you get more product. I detail a 2016 White Tacoma and a 2016 RAV 4 every spring. Any one have any thoughts or ideas as to which is the better product for me? Thank You.
The difference you'll notice between the two grades of clay is how quickly you can remove contaminates. The trade off with clay is always a chance of leaving light marring behind. That being said the fine grade clay is less likely to leave marring behind but will not remove a large amount of contaminates quickly.
So on a vehicle that doesn't get much build up of contaminates the fine is a great option. There's nothing wrong with the Visco kit you're using as long as you're using proper lubrication with it. It's just another choice as so many people have many different situations. Hope this helps!
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On 3/10/2019 at 4:07 PM, CoonHound693 said:
I did a full paint correction and used coating prep before applying, my question is Why was there so much static charge while buffing off? I used new prewashed single soft towels and after awhile I even tried new unopened single soft towels. It was leaving towels fibers all over paint.
Sorry to hear you had some issues in removing the Ceramic Spray Coating. I've had some issues before just due to something as simple as the amount of moisture in the air or lack there of. I've not had issues with the towels leaving stuff behind, generally I just give them a good snap to make sure there are no loose fibers. Did the coating still work properly? Meaning is the surface super slick? Did you apply the coating inside a garage?
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16 hours ago, tlbullet said:
Broke 50* so was able to get the cars washed....noticed this on my MDX..
half way down the side of entire car the water was no longer beading. (I tried making an arrow..not sure if u can see it).
I CC the car last June. Since then its had at least 2 coats of Cpw, numerous CB and DS.
Im assuming the waters reaction is a lack of paint protection????? I plan on spring Paint correction and re-coating anyway. Can anybody tell why it may look like that ?
Did you happen to feel the surface in that area? Sometimes contaminates can stick to the surface even being coated, especially in an area that gets spray from the road. I still have to use Iron Remover and clay every so often in areas like that. If the rest of the car is still beading pretty good I would check that first.
- tlbullet and Captain Slow
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40 minutes ago, Parad0x said:
I started a little too early this morning as my fingers were literally getting numb when finishing the Escalade but it warmed up enough by the time I started the Volvo... I've got to leave soon so time was of the essence.
But I'm with you, a warm up soon will be appreciated. Though shortly after it comes, comes all that wonderful green pollen! 🌳
When I do wash outside when it's cold I like to wear runners gloves and cover them with longer nitrile gloves. Little bit of insulation and hand don't get wet, still have plenty of dexterity!
- Parad0x and IAcamoprincess01
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Unfortunately I only know of two Goodguys events this year, PPG nationals in Columbus, Ohio and Colorado nationals. There's a ton of events going on this year and they try to keep the big truck and trailer rolling in one loop as opposed to bouncing all over.
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Ceramic Spray works well on wheels for sure. I've done both the actual wheel coating and spray. The standard coating holds on way longer, best thing I've done as far as making maintenance washes easier. For reference, I drive in Ohio/Indiana/Michigan Winters and it's held up phenomenally.
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Definitely feel you on this one! This time of year it's an uphill battle for sure. My black Silverado shows everything and then I had to go and put wheels with some offset and bigger more aggressive tires on it 🤦🏻♂️ Looks great after I wash it and then I hit a puddle and there's a spray down the side of it 😂. Oh well, there's always a give and take!
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9 hours ago, Bscott94 said:
I'm in Indy but if the Adams truck will be in Chicago, I'll be there.
Could also go to Columbus, Ohio in July!
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I'm a guy and have a sewing machine...used to make Cornhole (bag toss) sets in college for extra income. The aprons were nice but honestly I liked the detailers helper belts better, just my opinion.
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Not a mobile detailing cart but I use the Milwaukee packout tool storage system to move all of my stuff when going mobile. Works amazing!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-22-in-Packout-Modular-Tool-Box-Storage-System-233663/303038736
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Hat rack
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Great idea for a thread! Honestly surprised it hasn't come up until now.
I've been playing golf since I was 4, only slowed down a few years ago when I hurt my back. I really need to get back into playing more. I'm lucky enough to have grown up with a dad that plays every week and a great uncle who is still a Southern Ohio Senior Pro.
Played 3-4 times a week through middle school and high school. I was also a caddy for 5 years at Clovernook Country Club in Cincinnati. Had a hole in one my freshman year, hole #11 147 yds at Clovernook.
Favorite course in Ohio I've played is probably Maketewah Country Club. Out of state is Nags Head Golf Links in the Outer Banks mostly for good memories of playing with my dad on vacation every year. Always looked forward to that when I was younger.
One of my goals for 2019 is definitely to get out and play more especially with my dad and great uncle....he's 74 and still shoots his age. Lots of good memories caddying for him and several other local pro's.
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You can use any of those products but you'll get the water beading/sheet characteristics of that product and not as much the ceramic. None of the listed price it will harm the coating and may temporarily add some gloss or depth but honestly not much more than you will after having corrected and coating your truck.
If you like how ceramic beads/sheets water then I would stick with Boost or Ceramic paste wax. If you'd like to wipe it down with Detail Spray that's fine as well, you'll just have reduced hydrophobic properties in my experience.
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Thanks Chris! Not as bad as many places here in Cincinnati but as a heavy truck tech I spent a lot of time outside today in the 0 degree before wind chill weather getting trucks running. Not my idea of a good time. My only solace is we have a drain inside the building so I try to wash my truck at least every couple weeks.
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17 hours ago, kiwijeff said:
Thanks for the welcome.
Blcksilv08, yes you are correct I am that person that was after the 230V swirl killer. Colton at Adams help me out and we shipped it back to NZ in some of the cars we bought.
Really enjoyed the Goodguys show and finding Adams products which we had not heard of before. We got told about it by some of the guys with show cars that said they would not use anything but Adams.
Hi falcaineer the shed here is pretty full at the moment. We have 1966 and 1967 AMC MARLINS, 68 Pontiac Firebird, 85 El Camino LT1, 89 560SEC Mercedes Coupe, 84 500SEC Mercedes Coupe, 2005 E55 AMG Mercedes, Ford, Landrover and Kia. Also 3 vehicles under restoration are 1946 Hudson Pickup and 2 Holden utes
I'm glad they were able to get you sorted out with the polisher you needed! That's quite the collection you have, I'm partial to the 68 Firebird but the E55 AMG cars are a ton of fun to drive.
And you're right about the polar blast, I live 1.5 hours from Columbus and it was -25 F with the wind chill today.
Adam's Rinseless wash for a coated car?
in General Detailing Discussion and Questions
Posted
It will not as long as you dilute it properly. The only issue I've seen people have with rinseless is not diluting it properly and leaving a small amount of residue behind.