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3PedalMINI

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After a crazy 4 days at work.....finally have a day off today. Slept till 1pm and it was awesome!!!!!:rockon: Latest I've slept in in a long time. Going to clean up my truck tomorrow if the rain stops.

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Ryan, what are you using on your floors to polish? I have Brazilian cherry and I can't get the shine back for the life of me.

 

Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner and their High Gloss Polish. i let it dry overnight and it wasn't as shiny as when i first applied it in those pics, but we could definitely tell the difference.

 

you can get the cleaning kit, bottle of polish, and microfiber applicator pads at Bed Bath and Beyond or maybe even the grocery store, or of course online. i prefer the regular floor mop over the one with the replaceable cleaner cartridge.

 

they have a separate line for hardwood (blue bottles) and wood laminate (green bottles). we also have an iRobot that keeps the floors clean during the week, and i usually go over it with the hardwood cleaner every friday. this was the first time i polished the wood since we moved in 9 months ago, but Bona recommends polishing 2-4 times per year, so i'm going to start making that a routine every quarter. it was super easy to apply too.

 

if that doesn't work, you may need to have it professionally deep cleaned and polished

Edited by 2010TexasEdition
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Forgot to post this last night, but im making huge strides in my Kitchen. Did the firs layer of Drywall mud

 

facebook_1321620081jpg_zps4ac5c08c.jpg

 

Did you use any tape on those joints? Also when you are putting on the mud use your tapering knife to smooth it down a little more. I think you are going to have a lot of sanding.

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Did you use any tape on those joints? Also when you are putting on the mud use your tapering knife to smooth it down a little more. I think you are going to have a lot of sanding.

 

 

I was thinking the same thing. Doesn't look like tape was used.

If not the seams will show up later on. He might need to sand and tape and compound all over again.

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Daniel. Correct me if I'am wrong. But is that your first coat? If so take a putty knife and gently knock down those humps. Like Bluedog mentioned your going to have a lot of sanding. The trick to drywall mudding is "thin to win". Run your knife parallel to your seams. Not perpendicular, unless it is an inside corner. Where the ceiling meets the wall for example. Then just carefully feather it out a little further with each application of mud, on an inside corner. Don't waste your money on those inside corner trowels.

 

Here is how I do it. Use paper tape for all seams and the mesh tape where you have corner bead. I start with a 4 inch taping knife and spread mud on the seam and then press the tape in with the 4 inch knife. Press hard. Hold your pan under the knife as you run the knife over the tape. You will get a lot back in your pan that you applied to the wall. You should have just enough mud behind the tape for it to adhere without bubbles. Not lumpy. Should be smooth. Let it dry overnight. Then hit again with mud and a 8 inch taping knife. Let it dry overnight. Then sand gently. Then hit it again with a 10 inch knife. Let dry overnight. Then again sand gently. Then hit it a final time with a 12 inch taping knife. Let dry overnight then sand gently. Then when it is dark outside, take a flash light and hold it right up parallel to the wall and it will show all your imperfections. Have a pencil in hand and sanding block to mark and fix any imperfections. I know this sounds crazy, but mix some "Palmolive" dish soap in with your mud. I usually buy the buckets and just squirt a little on top in a zig zag motion and mix down a little bit with a drill. You will notice when you have used up the stuff mixed with dish soap and just repeat. I know it sounds weird, but it works. I promise. :2thumbs:

 

Don't waste your money on those inside corner trowels or plastic taping knives. Buy the steel ones. When I bought mine I thought I was going to use them, just this one time. But have used them numerous times. Just my opinion.

 

Like others have mentioned if tape wasn't used, sand as much as you can back down to the wall board, and follow my instructions. Not all is lost. If you don't tape, your seams will crack and it will all show up.

 

Forgot to mention the mesh tape is self adhering. But like I said use it only for corner bead and not other seams. Nail up your corner bead, throw some mesh tape on it and follow the instructions I posted above for the paper tape.

Edited by LFairbanks
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Agree with Chris, but I use the mesh tape everywhere. It folds nice in the corners also. I just do three coats. Tape coat with 6", mid coat with 10" and then top coat with 12" knife.

 

Check out the web or YouTube for videos on tapeing drywall.

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Did you use any tape on those joints? Also when you are putting on the mud use your tapering knife to smooth it down a little more. I think you are going to have a lot of sanding.

 

Daniel. Correct me if I'am wrong. But is that your first coat? If so take a putty knife and gently knock down those humps. Like Bluedog mentioned your going to have a lot of sanding. The trick to drywall mudding is "thin to win". Run your knife parallel to your seams. Not perpendicular, unless it is an inside corner. Where the ceiling meets the wall for example. Then just carefully feather it out a little further with each application of mud, on an inside corner. Don't waste your money on those inside corner trowels.

 

Here is how I do it. Use paper tape for all seams and the mesh tape where you have corner bead. I start with a 4 inch taping knife and spread mud on the seam and then press the tape in with the 4 inch knife. Press hard. Hold your pan under the knife as you run the knife over the tape. You will get a lot back in your pan that you applied to the wall. You should have just enough mud behind the tape for it to adhere without bubbles. Not lumpy. Should be smooth. Let it dry overnight. Then hit again with mud and a 8 inch taping knife. Let it dry overnight. Then sand gently. Then hit it again with a 10 inch knife. Let dry overnight. Then again sand gently. Then hit it a final time with a 12 inch taping knife. Let dry overnight then sand gently. Then when it is dark outside, take a flash light and hold it right up parallel to the wall and it will show all your imperfections. Have a pencil in hand and sanding block to mark and fix any imperfections. I know this sounds crazy, but mix some "Palmolive" dish soap in with your mud. I usually buy the buckets and just squirt a little on top in a zig zag motion and mix down a little bit with a drill. You will notice when you have used up the stuff mixed with dish soap and just repeat. I know it sounds weird, but it works. I promise. :2thumbs:

 

Don't waste your money on those inside corner trowels or plastic taping knives. Buy the steel ones. When I bought mine I thought I was going to use them, just this one time. But have used them numerous times. Just my opinion.

 

Like others have mentioned if tape wasn't used, sand as much as you can back down to the wall board, and follow my instructions. Not all is lost. If you don't tape, your seams will crack and it will all show up.

 

Forgot to mention the mesh tape is self adhering. But like I said use it only for corner bead and not other seams. Nail up your corner bead, throw some mesh tape on it and follow the instructions I posted above for the paper tape.

 

Agree with Chris, but I use the mesh tape everywhere. It folds nice in the corners also. I just do three coats. Tape coat with 6", mid coat with 10" and then top coat with 12" knife.

 

Check out the web or YouTube for videos on tapeing drywall.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. Yes all of the joints are tapped with mesh tape, which should be just fine, I have seen it done lots of times. There are a couple places where my wife put it on a little thick but we will be able to fix that no problem. My father-in-law said everything looked fine for the first layer (he has done lots of drywall). Should be able to have it all done this weekend, then its time to prime and paint.

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Thanks for the advice everyone. Yes all of the joints are tapped with mesh tape, which should be just fine, I have seen it done lots of times. There are a couple places where my wife put it on a little thick but we will be able to fix that no problem. My father-in-law said everything looked fine for the first layer (he has done lots of drywall). Should be able to have it all done this weekend, then its time to prime and paint.

 

I usually mud out quite a bit further so you can't/don't see the area mudded. It just blends better for me. I've done enough of the work to know I don't like doing it. I'm a perfectionist, and that's NOT a good combo.

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I usually mud out quite a bit further so you can't/don't see the area mudded. It just blends better for me. I've done enough of the work to know I don't like doing it. I'm a perfectionist, and that's NOT a good combo.

 

Yeah I know what you mean. I am a perfectionist too, and its going to be such a pain for me to do this. We are going to end up using a lot of mud in order to get the new walls to match up with the old walls with texturing and a million and a half layers of paint. Luckily my father-in-law is helping out quite a bit. If im doing the work I get really really picky, but if it someone else doing the work I am usually not as picky.

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Thanks for the advice everyone. Yes all of the joints are tapped with mesh tape, which should be just fine, I have seen it done lots of times. There are a couple places where my wife put it on a little thick but we will be able to fix that no problem. My father-in-law said everything looked fine for the first layer (he has done lots of drywall). Should be able to have it all done this weekend, then its time to prime and paint.

 

When I mentioned the mesh tape I was talking about the mesh paper tape. Did you use the fiberglass stuff? That stuff is basically for cement board. Also you have a lot of work ahead of you to get that smooth. I do this kind of stuff for a living and believe me less is more in this case. I would sand down all that you can then give everything another "thin" coat tapered out to around 10" wide then follow up with a wider coat. Good luck with everything.

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I by no means am an expert when it comes to drywall and don't do it for a living. Thank goodness. Most people hate it, because it is dusty and they usually don't get the results that they had anticipated. It is definitely an art. Am I fast? No. But I do get desired results. None of it is hard. Patience and the right tools are key. The way I learned was asking 10 (not number specific) different people the same question and comparing answers. People that I would ask where doing homes that are fairy tale to you and me. So I figured if they were hired to do a job like that they must know their stuff. I also spent some time watching the guys I hired do my upstairs during my construction phase on my home. Basement I did it all except lay carpet. I had no timelines and could just roll up the stairs into bed. Anybody can do drywall. Just takes patience.

 

Seriously Daniel. Check your work with the flashlight like I mentioned in my previous post. It may look good in the daylight, but night time and the flashlight everything comes to life. IMO even if your texturing your walls, get them as close to perfect as you can. And then make sure when your done you seal it all good with a "primer/sealer". Sealer is key with new drywall. Primer and Sealer are two different things. I usually do 2 coats of primer/sealer, then 2 coats of a good quality paint.

 

Drywall Sealer Vs. Primer | eHow.com

 

On another note, if your wife is helping you make sure she sands her mudding. That will fix her real quick. :lolsmack: While I was doing finish woodwork during the initial building phase the wife wanted to putty my nail holes. I kept telling her to go easy with it. "It will sand off easy" was her comment. Needless to say she made me buy a contour sander and she told me later in the day that that tool was a lifesaver. :lolsmack:

Edited by LFairbanks
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