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Pulling my hair out!

MSUGTO

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MSUGTO

MSUGTO

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Back in October I had picked up a 2000 Corvette FRC and it was in desparate need of some paint correction. Now that I've got a PC I've been able to get to work on it with some success though I can't say I'm completely satisfied with my work just yet.

 

I started with a wash then claying the car twice, doing so made me think that this poor car had never been clayed in all its life. After that I used the following process with the PC:

 

SSHR w/green pad- Prime the pad with DS, setting of 3, worked until clear, seems to have a fairly long open time compared to SHR. Prime pad with DS then work at a setting of 4

 

SHR w/orange pad- Prime the pad with DS, setting of 3, worked until clear, primed pad DS, setting of 4, worked until clear, primed pad with DS, setting of 4.5, worked until clear

 

FMP w/ white pad- Setting of 4, worked until clear, prime pad, setting of 5, worked until clear then wiped the surface clear.

 

After following this process, I'll find that the large majority of the swirls will be gone but I can still see some very small swirls when I get up close to the paint with a light. Is there anything that you can see from my process that I can change in order to get rid of those swirls that are left? Thanks in advance!

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Chobbs

Chobbs

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Just make sure that you take into account what I have posted in this thread, and read the entire thread that contains those videos.

 

Copy that! I just did my mother's entire car with one pad for each product and did not clog up the pads. But if I ever do I'd like to know how. Thanks junkman!

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MSUGTO

MSUGTO

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JunkMan - Thank you for the feedback, still new with the PC.

 

Mayben - I'll be sure to get some pictures of what the paint looked like before any correction took place and some pictures of what I did today when I get some better lighting. Pretty sure the previous owner washed the car with steel wool it seems like.

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Junkman2008

Junkman2008

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C6Bill- You're right, was trying to replicate the slow cut process.

 

Then you were doing it all wrong, and you were using the wrong technique to begin with. As I have posted many times, the slow cut process is made for paste type compounds when used with a low powered polisher like the PC, OR if you need to flush excess product out of a caked up pad. If you are not using a paste compound and a PC, then you would never utilize the slow cut to fix paint. Adam's products are liquid, not paste. Thus, the only reason you would do the slow cut is to flush out the pad, a sign that your technique is screwed up because you should never use too much product and cake up the pad in the first place.

 

When flushing out a pad, you only do enough slow cut passes to flush the excess product out of the pad and then you go back to either Adam's technique or mine. There is no need for a quick reference chart because Adam and I clearly state the speeds that we work at. Adam's videos are real short so there should be no reason that you can't go back and refresh yourself with his technique.

 

When in doubt, watch Adam's videos. He is very clear and thorough on how this is done with every product he sells.

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MSUGTO

MSUGTO

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I got back at it again today and had much better luck with everyone's help, thank you! There was a big improvement with the changes that everyone has suggested and there are VERY slight swirls left. I'd imagine that at this point it's a combination of fine tuning my process and just more elbow grease. But thanks to everyone!

 

I really don't have access to a light that would light up the paint well enough for pictures but hey, I hope this one will do! :cheers:

 

dsc01310u.jpg

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Guest Jay.

Guest Jay.

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Back in October I had picked up a 2000 Corvette FRC and it was in desparate need of some paint correction. Now that I've got a PC I've been able to get to work on it with some success though I can't say I'm completely satisfied with my work just yet.

 

I started with a wash then claying the car twice, doing so made me think that this poor car had never been clayed in all its life. After that I used the following process with the PC:

 

SSHR w/green pad- Prime the pad with DS, setting of 3, worked until clear, seems to have a fairly long open time compared to SHR. Prime pad with DS then work at a setting of 4

 

SHR w/orange pad- Prime the pad with DS, setting of 3, worked until clear, primed pad DS, setting of 4, worked until clear, primed pad with DS, setting of 4.5, worked until clear

 

FMP w/ white pad- Setting of 4, worked until clear, prime pad, setting of 5, worked until clear then wiped the surface clear.

 

After following this process, I'll find that the large majority of the swirls will be gone but I can still see some very small swirls when I get up close to the paint with a light. Is there anything that you can see from my process that I can change in order to get rid of those swirls that are left? Thanks in advance!

 

I think that you reversed the process here, and should of started at 5 or 6 on your pc and worked your way down to 3................think of it like this if it helps, you have to make heat to remove scratches and swirls so crank it up, but then waxing is only to spread the product around so slow it down.

 

Is there a sheet or something that tells you "recommended" speeds or settings for the PC with the different products/pads, or can someone lmk, I know the videos tell you some times and the junkman videos. But you know just as a quick reference guide until I get hang of it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mistyped from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

SSHR Green pad 5-6

SHR Orange pad 5-6

FMP White pad 4-5

Revive Grey pad 3 (not necessary, but speeds it up)

MSW Grey pad. 3

BW Grey pad 3 (not necessary, but speeds it up)

BG Grey pad 2-3 (not necessary, but speeds it up)

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TX GMC

TX GMC

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Is there a sheet or something that tells you "recommended" speeds or settings for the PC with the different products/pads, or can someone lmk, I know the videos tell you some times and the junkman videos. But you know just as a quick reference guide until I get hang of it!

 

 

Mistyped from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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MSUGTO

MSUGTO

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I sure did, an unfortunately there wasn't a noticeable difference in the finish. My thinking is that since the pain on the car has been neglected all of its life, an afternoon with a PC won't being it back to it's showroom shine but constant work will. Bright side is that I doubt these swirls are bad enough where wet sanding will need to come into play. Not giving up!

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