Liquid Paint Sealant with Cyclo

[gbod]

This morning I finally had a chance to use my new Cyclo for the first time for some paint correction and then applying a coat of Liquid Paint Sealant to my daily driver.  As a total noob to machine polishing, I must say the Cyclo used with Adam's paint correction polishes and pads was super easy and worked awesomely!    

 

My question is this: How much pressure, if any, should be used when applying Liquid Paint Sealant with the gray Sealant and Wax pads?  The reason I ask is because when I was all finished and went to clean my pads, there was a ton of LPS that had absorbed into the pads, and it took me a long time with several rounds of Dawn dish soap and All Purpose Cleaner to get it all out. (Actually, I don't know if I did get it all out, I kind of gave up after a while- being waterproof, LPS is hard to wash out!)  When applying, I was just using the weight of the machine to spread out the sealant, but if so much got absorbed into the pads, should I have used more pressure to "squeeze" it out of the pad?  Or, is that just the way it goes? 

 

 

[Ricky Bobby]

Thats just the way it goes, the polymer nature of the liquid makes it tend to be "sticky" and tough to get out of the pads completely.

 

I don't machine wax/seal but I do it by hand and just keep an applicator dedicated to whichever LSP its used with to avoid any cross contamination.

 

You're correct you should only be using the weight of the machine when applying LSP, no pressure, you're just spreading a thin layer at low speed.  Less is more and thin is in so definitely be sure to not over applying so a lot soaks into your pad.

[Dan@Adams]

As Jason said, you don't need to apply any pressure when laying down Liquid Paint Sealant, BG, or Buttery Wax with the Cyclo, Flex, or any other machine polisher because you are only adding protetion to the finish, not correcting it with a polish and a polishing pad

 

The weight of the machine and a slow speed setting are keys to spreading the product thin and even so that you aren't wasting product...plus it will be easier to wipe off the residue. I also agree that it's tricky to get LPS out of the gray foam pads. The next time I clean mine I might try soaking them in a diluted APC mix for few minutes to help break down the product.

[Chris@Adams]

Remember too less is more when it comes to applying LPS......it doesn't take a lot of product.

[gbod]

Thanks to all for the replies! Now that I know how much LPS is getting absorbed into the pads, next time I will use my fingers to squeeze it back to the surface of the pads in between panels, and hopefully less of it will end up down the drain, and cleaning will be easier.

[2Fords]

When I am applying liquid paint sealant here's what I do. Stop the machine and "push" the pads into the surface and out comes  paint sealant. It basically squishes it out . I can usually get enough product out to do say a whole door panel! I have a Cyclo also by the way. This method has worked very good for me in the past.Also, like others have said less is more when using sealant,or any other Adams product actually.

[PaintTech]

I use my old PC for BG, Machine Super Wax/Machine Sealant/Liquid Paint Sealant or whatever it's called this month lol. Unsure about the new sealant, but the prior 2 seemed to break down better with a machine (like PC) application... Speed of 2, no pressure and an overlapping pass pattern in both directions (North South / East West). With older product that I have, 3 pea-sized drops on the pad (spread out) was more than enough to do the whole hood. A light spritz of DS in between sections helped loosen up the product in the pad affected by the friction-heat. With older sealant, less is more. The thinner you can apply it, the better. Then allow 20 min. Cure time (30-40 in colder temps like under 65F)

 

dont have a cyclo, can't comment.