Uh Oh Spots!

[thatryan]

So it lightly rained the other day, then the sun and wind came out and my car got coated with polllen. Today it was kind of drizzling a bit and I didn't have any time to wash because it is a work day so I figured I would hose it off to at least get the crap off the paint. 

 

Apparently my DI resin is depleted though, gah, and now my car is spotted bad. Will this damage my paint? Will hosing it off with clean DI water work? Do I need to full on wash now?

[LFairbanks]

I bet a Rinseless wash would make short work of that.

[Team Adam's]

Try just wiping down with DS or WW first... Those look superficial.

[thatryan]

I'll give that a shot, thanks guys.

[TheWolf]

You really need to get a TDS meter and check your DI water after each wash. Then if your resin is exhausted, you know that you will have to dry with a towel.

[Chris@Adams]

Anytime you just hose your car off take a few min. to do a DS or WW wipe down on all the flat surfaces like hood, roof and trunk and you won't get those water spots.

[Ricky Bobby]

No dirt I would wipedown with Waterless or diluted Rinseless for sure

[GXPaycheck]

If you are going to towel dry the car, spray it with detail spray while it is still wet then dry with a GWDT. Leaves a great shine and no spots.

[Kingsford]

If DS or WW don't work, personally, my next go to is Revive by hand. If the Revive can't remove it then it's a DA's job.

 

But it looks like its more of a surface contamination right now.

[thatryan]

So I sprayed some diluted rinseless onto a waterless towel and on the truck deck did a full single wipe from side to side. It looks like it removed the stand out part of it, but if I look at an angle can still see the spot areas there.

 

Are you supposed to 'scrub' with the waterless?

[Ricky Bobby]

No, don't scrub.

 

I'd try a second mist and wipe.  Or use more rinseless in the dilution (more concentrated = more cleaning power).  If it still remains after a regular 2 bucket wash, it may need a slight amount of polishing to remove.

 

I know your muscular gets to you but if anything maybe Revive by hand would remove it.

[Kingsford]

Should never Scrub with anything on paint, can cause scratches. 

 

Try some Revive with a hand applicator, throw some wax on after it.

[PT3]

What about a clay bar? Worked for me when I had water spots.

[The Guz]

What about a clay bar? Worked for me when I had water spots.

 

Depends on how far they have etched into the paint. 

[Junior]

Did I see somewhere that people sometimes use diluted vinegar to kill water spots? Although if thats an approved method I assume it will remove LSPs as well so you need to reapply wax etc.

[Junior]

And I would probably dilute it 2:1 water to vinegar at a minimum. Then maybe try one area by dampening a microfiber cloth with the vinegar and allowing it to sit on the spots for a minute. Then wipe the paint with some rinseless wash with a separate mf towel. If that doesnt seem like something you are comfortable with, I agree with claying and/or using Revive. If none of that works, time to break out a machine. Just be mindful to do this on a cool surface and most methods to remove the spots will probably result in the need to reapply wax etc.

Edited March 14, 2015 by Junior

[thatryan]

Finally got to wash yesterday, appears to have come out with a standard wash, though I swear under certain light angle in garage this morning I could still see outlines of some spots..

 

Car has never been clayed, it is 2013, I was planning on having claying and two-step paint correction done by a local detailer and then debating on having a nano coating put on. Though after washing and seeing various small chip marks from 2 years of daily driving im thinking I should have done it right away ha. 

 

So now am considering attempting clay, correction and sealing by myself and buying the cyclo polisher...though not sure if my body could handle all that

[mc2hill]

The claying should be ok, and the cyclo is very smooth, so that plan may work for you Ryan.

Edited March 16, 2015 by mc2hill

[thatryan]

I'd have to read and watch more on the process yeah. Claying is all by hand (arm strength?) and then correction after that is machine over entire car yeah. Then sealing and glaze (or something shiny) after correction can be done with machine or hand only?

 

Time between steps? Does it have to be instant? Or can clay one day, paint correct next day, seal and glaze day after?

 

Also of note, to do wheels, wash and dress trim/glass takes me a solid 4 hours lol.

[LFairbanks]

You could do a little bit every day.  Just wipe down each panel with waterless wash before you begin, as long as it isn't real dirty.  If it is too dirty maybe do a Rinseless Wash before you begin the next step.

[thatryan]

So it won't ruin paint if it is clayed and unprotected?

I would leave it in garage overnight.

[LFairbanks]

So it won't ruin paint if it is clayed and unprotected?

I would leave it in garage overnight.

 

No.  You just don't want to leave it unprotected for long periods of time.  

[The Guz]

You don't need to use a lot of pressure when claying.  As stated you can break it up per panel over a various amount of days.

[thatryan]

Hmm. This is intriguing me more and more. I thought (like a noob) that once clayed the car was "naked and afraid" and it became an oh-crap-hurry-up type job to finish it.

[mc2hill]

I'd have to read and watch more on the process yeah. Claying is all by hand (arm strength?) and then correction after that is machine over entire car yeah. Then sealing and glaze (or something shiny) after correction can be done with machine or hand only?

 

Time between steps? Does it have to be instant? Or can clay one day, paint correct next day, seal and glaze day after?

 

Also of note, to do wheels, wash and dress trim/glass takes me a solid 4 hours lol.

 

For most claying just the moving the clay over the area should be enough to remove the contaminates.  The refolding of the clay over itself to get to a 'clean' part of the clay would a little more difficult.  If you have severe paint overspray you may have to rub hard to remove it.  

 

As Chris said, you decide how fast you want to work and how much to do each time.  If you are doing this  within the space of a couple weeks, driving the car without protection should be fine.  But is also a way to use up the bottle of Buttery Wax you never seem use! 

[thatryan]

Ok, so think I am going to take the plunge and attempt this all myself, ha. You guys will be around though I'm sure

 

So I am thinking the ADAM'S TWO STEP CYCLO MACHINE POLISHING KIT, Liquid Paint Sealant and 4" gray machine pads. This is my daily driver. Now the sealant would go on right after paint correction and polishing right, strong base layer. If I do it all correctly, will that still shine nicely, or  be dullish?

 

Would love input for enhancing, brilliant glaze or buttery wax? Something that can be applied by cyclo would be ideal. And those would go on after sealant right?

 

I suppose some parts of this would have to be hand, nooks and crannies yeah...?

 

My car color is the pic in my sig FYI, I have read that different products are better for different colors.

 

Thanks all