Horrified and Totally Disheartened - Is Adams Worth It?

[Agbull]

Yea you need to inspect your pads & MF towels. If either one are in question get new. Once you determine that your pads are ok to use do a 2x2 test spot and don't move on until you have it corrected. Then you will know what it takes to make your paint perfect. BTW make sure you are putting enough pressure on your machine and go slow.....

What machine are you using?

Hey Chris.  I have used the pads maybe four times (one complete detail per year).  After using, I soak in bucket with half a spray bottle of All Purpose Cleaner and enough water to cover all the pads then place the grit guard on top until to hold the pads down.  I then wash them in the washing machine with mild detergent and air dry.  I am using the PC and the Adam's pads.  Thanks for all the help guys because this is frustrating.

[Agbull]

One other major question.... Did you drop your clay bar on the ground????

Nope.  Definitely not.  I know that rule.

[Agbull]

Well all, I am an old schooler and not real good with the forum situation.  I should have read through everything before I started my marathon of responses!  Going to the post by Dan, the forum moderator, I again apologize for the delay in response but was called out of town for work and only now have had the time to catch-up.

 

To Dan:

 

Yes, you are correct about the polishes in the photo.  I originally purchased right after I took delivery of the vehicle.  I do shake them up regularly during use and I place most of my Adam's products in a box and store in my home office during the winter (can't say that they never see the cold, but I generally get them inside for the winter).  Suring the summer months, they are on the garage shelf the entire time so they do see some heat.  On the pad side, I do clean them after every use and have used them probably 4 times (one full detail per year, always in the Fall.  They seem to be clean and I soak them with All Purpose and water overnight, then throw them into the washing machine and air dry.  Figured that this should ensure that old polish would be dissolved and removed.

 

My car has NEVER been washed at the dealership.  I actually keep a cardboard sign in the glove box that I place on the dash when it goes to the dealer that states "Please Do Not Wash".  Similarly, I only use touch-less car washes in the winter when needed. This vehicle has never been touched by sources outside of my control.

 

I did machine polish and used a PC.  I also started on the hood doing a small section that did seem to be fine.  Given the lighting conditions presented with daylight savings time, I have not yet had a chance to inspect the from of the vehicle in direct sunlight.  I have a company car, so the Audi typically stays in the garage unless I am out engaging in "spirited" driving or working on it.  Is there an affordable, artificial light that you would recommend that I can use while detailing in the garage?  It looked fine using a standard flashlight/Knucklehead LED flashlight while I was doing the detail.

 

Thanks for the tip on checking the towels.  I will check with some CDs when I am back home this weekend.  I add the Adam's Microfiber Rejuvenator to every wash that I do and they do not visually appear to be dirty, but understand what you are saying.  Any other tips on how to determine if towels or pads look good but may be bad?

 

Thanks for the offer on exchanging the old products and I will give customer service a call tomorrow.  This is very nice of you and greatly appreciated.

 

Also, as a side note, I keep everything (after drying) in sealed Tupperware style boxes so I am still confused on how the pads or towels would become contaminated.  Anything you can offer to help me preserve these items will be greatly appreciated.  Seriously, I am pretty anal about this car (my wife says that I am obsessed) so this crushed me.  Thanks again for your help and to everyone that replied.  I hope to get this back to perfection after the weather turns.

 

 

[Feets31]

Use a PC, orange pad and swirl and haze remover.  Leave the Swirl and haze remover on and then use the white pads with machine polish, then wipe the double softs. 

 

When I read this It occurred to me that maybe you leaving the Swirl and Haze remover on and then switching pads, that maybe some dried polish was then pushed into the paint.  Just a thought.  

[Agbull]

Use a PC, orange pad and swirl and haze remover.  Leave the Swirl and haze remover on and then use the white pads with machine polish, then wipe the double softs. 

 

When I read this It occurred to me that maybe you leaving the Swirl and Haze remover on and then switching pads, that maybe some dried polish was then pushed into the paint.  Just a thought.  

You are correct and that is exactly what I have done, but it is per the instructions provided by Adam's for this system.  Thanks for the reply.

[07stanggt]

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

[marquez93]

Nice before and afters.  I have to detail my dad's 2000 Mustang Cobra in the spring and it's about that bad.  Hopefully I can make it look just like what you did there.

[BluedogGMC]

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                   Eli's Challenger 023.jpgEli's Challenger 016.jpgEli's Challenger 014.jpgGarys 08 001.jpgGarys 08 038.jpgPass. fender before.jpgPass. fender after.jpg04 term door handel before.jpg04 term dor handel after.jpg                                                                                                                                                                                                      

 

Those are some great before and after shots. Nice work.

[Agbull]

 is amazing

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                   Eli's Challenger 023.jpgEli's Challenger 016.jpgEli's Challenger 014.jpgGarys 08 001.jpgGarys 08 038.jpgPass. fender before.jpgPass. fender after.jpg04 term door handel before.jpg04 term dor handel after.jpg                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Now that is what I want mine to look like!  What kind of light are you using to illuminate the blemishes while inside?  As far as the plane ticket, thanks for the offer, but I have too many kids to buy for this Christmas.

[Sicoupe]

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                   Eli's Challenger 023.jpgEli's Challenger 016.jpgEli's Challenger 014.jpgGarys 08 001.jpgGarys 08 038.jpgPass. fender before.jpgPass. fender after.jpg04 term door handel before.jpg04 term dor handel after.jpg

 

That is some awesome work my friend!

[mc2hill]

Now that is what I want mine to look like!  What kind of light are you using to illuminate the blemishes while inside?  

 

Probably a halogen or LED work light.  Something about 500 watts.  If you having trouble seeing the marring, try turning off all the other light sources.  Oh, and flash from a camera can work too.

[Guest washemup]

You can get halogen shop lights on a stand for the sides of the car, you can also get a handheld light, my personal preference, to inspect each section without having to move the stand constantly. I bought the Flex swirl finder light, while It works well, it is way overpriced, it's not even made by Flex. It's a Cree light. They sell these much cheaper on Amazon. You'll want a 3 mode adjustable, somewhere around 140-200 lumens.

 

Here is a good video on how to use one to check your paint. The brinkmann light in this video has been discontinued.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50TY0SbHkd4

 

 

I'd also get some microfiber cutting pads. Audi is notorious for very hard paint. The good thing about it though is it's super easy to finish down after you remove the defects.

Edited December 11, 2015 by washemup

[07stanggt]

Now that is what I want mine to look like!  What kind of light are you using to illuminate the blemishes while inside?  As far as the plane ticket, thanks for the offer, but I have too many kids to buy for this Christmas.

That is what a little time, good products (all was done with Adams) and technique can do for paint correction using a machine.I have 4 sets of florescent lights on the ceiling and 3 sets of 500 watt halogens on the ceiling in various locations as well.I also use a portable set of 500 watt halogens to shine down the length of panels. Rarley are they used at the same time, it is just nice not having to move lights all over the place preventing any chance of a cord etc. knocking the portable light stand over into a vehicle. Offer stands after the Christmas rush is over.

[07stanggt]

That is some awesome work my friend!

Thanks for the complements !! I pride myself in scratch removal for all my detail customers and the looks I get when they see the before and afters of their car  !! Here are a couple more pics of work I've done for customers.

[BluePoncho]

So I thought it was only me. Here's my theory and I'm sure I'll get bashed for it. So I had some swirled paint on my black Impala. Purchased as a demo and saw a lot of dealer machine washing. Did the two step system and after many hours got the finish perfect, not s swirl to be seen with halogen lights LEDs sunlight. A week goes by and a wash is done. And boom same issue as op. I truly believe the paint is not getting corrected but rather covered up by a product. Put a quick coat of gg on it and the swirls almost disappear. Do I do 2 bucket washes, no. But I never did on any vehicle that I have had and they were all black. Only difference is this one needed correction as my others never saw the automatic machine washes. Just my 2 cents.

[mc2hill]

So I thought it was only me. Here's my theory and I'm sure I'll get bashed for it. So I had some swirled paint on my black Impala. Purchased as a demo and saw a lot of dealer machine washing. Did the two step system and after many hours got the finish perfect, not s swirl to be seen with halogen lights LEDs sunlight. A week goes by and a wash is done. And boom same issue as op. I truly believe the paint is not getting corrected but rather covered up by a product. Put a quick coat of gg on it and the swirls almost disappear. Do I do 2 bucket washes, no. But I never did on any vehicle that I have had and they were all black. Only difference is this one needed correction as my others never saw the automatic machine washes. Just my 2 cents.

 

If you are using Adam's polishes, they are not covering up the swirls with fillers, etc.  You can validate this by removing any polishing oils and fillers with IPA.  Mix IPA with distilled water to about 17% IPA to 83% water and spray on the corrected panel and remove with a clean towel (I like WW towels for this).  Now you are left with only the painted surface.

Edited December 12, 2015 by mc2hill

[Guest washemup]

Not trying to "bash" you in any way, but what Mc2hill stated is absolutely fact. You could have oils left over that are disguising swirls, an IPA wipedown will remove them and show the true results under the right lighting.

 

You could be putting them back in with your wash method/media as well. I don't do rinseless washing as I'm scared to death of scratching my paint, and I've been doing the 2 bucket for so long, I'm confident I can do it without causing any marring. This is not to say that the same results cannot be achieved with rinseless. Since you don't do 2 bucket, I'm assuming your doing rinseless?

 

If I were you, I'd consult with Ricky Bobby or someone else on this forum, that has a lot of experience with rinseless.

Just to go over your process, and make sure there aren't any details your missing. Then, just correct one part of your Impala. Do your rinseless wash, and once you can wash this section without causing any marring, then correct the whole car.

Edited December 12, 2015 by washemup

[Chris@Adams]

Hey Chris. I have used the pads maybe four times (one complete detail per year). After using, I soak in bucket with half a spray bottle of All Purpose Cleaner and enough water to cover all the pads then place the grit guard on top until to hold the pads down. I then wash them in the washing machine with mild detergent and air dry. I am using the PC and the Adam's pads. Thanks for all the help guys because this is frustrating.

I personally wouldn't recommend washing pads in the washing machine. I soak mine like you said then I hand wash them...

[BluePoncho]

Thank you all for your input. I still have to disagree. This all is a means to over complicate a simple job of washing a car. Like I said before. I have been washing black vehicles for as long as I have owned a car. And never have I seen the end result just like the op has until a full paint correction.

[Dan@Adams]

It's very easy to re-introduce swirl marks into a black finish - whether it be by a dirty towel, improper washing, or wiping off a bird bomb with a paper towel like I watched an old coworker do at my previous job - especially if the vehicle has a soft clear coat.

 

Our Polishes are absolutely not masking swirl marks. They are carefully smoothing and layering out the clear coat to remove them. Yes, products like our Brilliant Glaze and HGG do have some filler properties in them to enhance shine even more, but our polishes do not.

 

I will agree that washing a black vehicle can be a simple process, as long as you follow the correct steps, but the majority of non-detailers are going to wash improperly or take the vehicle through an automatic car wash and cause all sorts of damage to the clear. There are even some people out there, my parents for instance, that don't even know what a swirl mark is or how that happens and just think that is the way the car looks when you buy it new! Yikes!

[Agbull]

Ok, OP here. 

 

Three day weekend coming up and weather is warm so I should be able to knock this out.  I have washed, clayed and then strip washed.  Next is applying dressing to rubber trim with SVRT.  Once complete, I will start with the RUPES that I bought.  5" backing plate with the 6" pads that Adams sent to me, right?  Thanks big time to Adams for sending me new products.  I will be cutting them out of the bags to start this project so there should not be any contamination, right?

 

Just want to get my car back to perfect so thanks for any assistance that you can provide.

[AvsBest]

I caught up on the old posts, do a 2x2 section with your new gear and don't move on until you have that test section to your satisfaction. Use a good light obviously to reveal all the possible swirls/imperfections.

 

Once you get the whole thing done, inspect after every wash and you'll be able to narrow it down to where the issue is. I personally don't like the washing pads and found they swirled my paint, I used the merino mitt and problem solved but it took me awhile to figure it out.

 

Washing a black car is a science, it will take you a few months if not longer to master it

[Agbull]

OP here. I have put in about 20 hours to make my paint perfect, but I am going to start a new thread about why noobs like me should NOT pay attention to the Adam's paint correction videos. Just an FYI, I just spent another couple hundred bucks on their stuff with the Memorial Day promotion. Not saying the stuff doesn't work, just saying that their videos are not good for Noobs (and over the last couple of years, I am quickly becoming a professional).

[GXPaycheck]

OP here. I have put in about 20 hours to make my paint perfect, but I am going to start a new thread about why noobs like me should NOT pay attention to the Adam's paint correction videos. Just an FYI, I just spent another couple hundred bucks on their stuff with the Memorial Day promotion. Not saying the stuff doesn't work, just saying that their videos are not good for Noobs (and over the last couple of years, I am quickly becoming a professional).

The videos are are a great place TO START. If one isn't willing to use common sense, then maybe one should let someone else do their detailing.

[Werne1nm]

You give me hope for when I do my vehicle in two weeks. I was concerned about the paint but these look 100x worse than mine.

 

Btw how do you remove scratches from door handle pockets!?!?

 

 

You definetly need to remove the first product you applied for swirl removal BEFORE you go onto the next step !! I still use the old green Sever Swirl Remover from Adams for cars that are REALLY bad, then go onto the orange and white correcting polishes to finsh. There is no way those swirls came from just using clean towels etc. Sounds like you take good care of your stuff, had to be something other than good products to make those scratches.Here are a some before and after pics on some black paint I have corrected for customers with a machine. You pay the plane flight, I will pack my bags with my Adams stuff and remove those scratches and detail your car for free !!                                                                   Eli's Challenger 023.jpgEli's Challenger 016.jpgEli's Challenger 014.jpgGarys 08 001.jpgGarys 08 038.jpgPass. fender before.jpgPass. fender after.jpg04 term door handel before.jpg04 term dor handel after.jpg