2 Step Question - Removing before next product

[2011FJ]

Hey guys,

 

Sorry if this has been asked before, I moved through this thread and also did a search and didn't find anything.   Just wanted your input on something.  When doing a 2 step correction is it ok to leave the finished first step product on and go right over it with the finishing polish or is it best to completely remove the correcting polish residue and start with a totally clean panel.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[marquez93]

Remove the residue first.  Otherwise, you have dried polish that you are working into the paint. 

[2011FJ]

Remove the residue first.  Otherwise, you have dried polish that you are working into the paint. 

Thanks Matt,  Makes sense

[Chris@Adams]

Once I do my test spot and know what it's going to take to correct my paint, I never wipe off last product reside, I go over top of it...

One more thing that I always do is when I am ready to wipe off I apply a coat of BG then I wipe off, it's easier to wipe both products off at the same time and you get the benefit of the extra shine of the BG.

[marquez93]

And the dried residue doesn't act as an abrasive in the later steps when you don't really want an abrasive? I guess if you do it right, the abrasives are completely broken down?

[Thorsager]

I do a lot of one-step correction with just the Paint Correcting Product. When I do a two-step correction I always wipe the residue away before moving on to the Finishing Polish. I do that to see if I got all the major defects out before moving on to the finishing process.

[pirahnah3]

I dont wipe down between, even Dylan doesnt in his demo vids, he says just go right over it. 

 

Here is a vid in question, short one only about 7min long, but if you skip up to 4:50 and watch he even says to go right over it. 

[Guest washemup]

I usually wipe off the compound, then spray with IPA 10% solution, or Carpro Eraser, to remove all the oils from the paint that could be potentially hiding defects, then check section for results. While the paint can be hazed, or have some very light defects left, you want to make sure all the swirls are removed. It's also possible that the section may require a second session with compound if defects remain after the first go round. Check each section with good lighting to ensure your getting the desired results.

 

Clean your pad every section with a brush, clean cotton towel, or compressed air (for microfiber pads). As your moving across the car to different sections, the pad is getting spent polish residue, and paint residue, in the pores.

Once the pad gets too loaded up with these, your results will diminish. This lets you know it's time to change to a fresh pad.

 

The abrasives in finishing polish are much lighter then the one's in compounds, so you don't want compound residue left on the car, some compound residues are particularly hard to remove if left to dry.

[Ricky Bobby]

It's very simple - if you want to check your work to see if another pass is needed - remove the haze with a towel and inspect with your swirl finder.

 

If I'm detailing for a customer or it's a car I don't know well I always check my work after each section pass. If it's my car and I am being lazy I guess I could not remove the residue but it's not much extra for me.

[vobro]

If I'm doing a two step I always remove product as I go. A lot of cars I do are a swirled out mess, as you remove small to medium swirls deeper scratches will stand out that you didn't see at first. It's just more efficient to correct each section and move on and the only way to do that is to check your work as you go. Doing a test spot in one or two areas is fine but we all know there are areas on the car that will need more attention like bottom 1/3 of vertical panels, back bumper that people tend to rest packages while they open the trunk, front end with dried bug splatter and around door handles.