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Help !!!!!! Can this be saved ?


sshhbequiet
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whats up guys. this is a site i wish i would have found a long time ago! i have been wanting to buff/polish my truck for a while. and i finally found somewhere where there is alot of info, and good products!! this is awesome, cant wait to order the stuff i need, and git er done!!

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im gonna need some input on exactly what products i should use on my truck, and if it will even be what i need to do, otherwise i may have to just get it painted....here they are...i just took the pics about 10 min ago...

 

you guys think this is something Adams can help me with? the bad parts are really just the hood, and over top of the cab. by the way, this truck is a black ford lightning

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Pictures are always a great help Jon, so you are off to a great start !!!!!!

 

Lets break this down into two parts.

 

 

1) The hood

That is some serious swirls/haze and mineral deposits you have there but besides the chips I think it would make for great before and after shots as SHR and an Orange pad can take care of that stuff. It actually looks like someone washed it with Comet from the haze?

 

2) The roof

No swirls is the good news. The bad news is that one spot that is either a bird bomb that has been there for a real long time or early stages of clear coat failure.

 

First question, do you have a PC 7424 ? If you do we are ready to get started with a list of things you will need. If you don't have one put it at the top of the list cause you won't correct this without one. We can get back to the list later.

 

Another thing to remember is even if you spend a few hundred on detailing supplies it will never be wasted money. Even if the clear coat has failed you will have these products to take good care of it after painting. BUT, I don't think we are there yet. I think with a PC and a few Adam's products we can get that thing looking good :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

 

Have you seen Adam's and Junkmans video's ?

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Pictures are always a great help Jon, so you are off to a great start !!!!!!

 

Lets break this down into two parts.

 

 

1) The hood

That is some serious swirls/haze and mineral deposits you have there but besides the chips I think it would make for great before and after shots as SHR and an Orange pad can take care of that stuff. It actually looks like someone washed it with Comet from the haze?

 

2) The roof

No swirls is the good news. The bad news is that one spot that is either a bird bomb that has been there for a real long time or early stages of clear coat failure.

 

First question, do you have a PC 7424 ? If you do we are ready to get started with a list of things you will need. If you don't have one put it at the top of the list cause you won't correct this without one. We can get back to the list later.

 

Another thing to remember is even if you spend a few hundred on detailing supplies it will never be wasted money. Even if the clear coat has failed you will have these products to take good care of it after painting. BUT, I don't think we are there yet. I think with a PC and a few Adam's products we can get that thing looking good :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

 

Have you seen Adam's and Junkmans video's ?

 

oh ya, i was at work today on my blackberry and i watched an hours worth of videos while i should have been working...haha ssshhhh dont tell anyone!! haha the hood and top are the worst parts of the truck, the rest arent really that bad. i live in VA so it gets hot here during the summers. and as far as the clear coat failing, it hasnt started peeling at all, just that white color. is that something that this process will take care of? and i havent bought anything yet, but tomorrow is payday!!!:pc::pc::pc::pc::pc::pc: haha

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oh ya, i was at work today on my blackberry and i watched an hours worth of videos while i should have been working...haha ssshhhh dont tell anyone!! haha the hood and top are the worst parts of the truck, the rest arent really that bad. i live in VA so it gets hot here during the summers. and as far as the clear coat failing, it hasnt started peeling at all, just that white color. is that something that this process will take care of? and i havent bought anything yet, but tomorrow is payday!!!:pc::pc::pc::pc::pc::pc: haha

 

If the clear has failed, and I am not saying that it has, there isn't anything that can be does except repaint but i could be way off and we may be able to get that thing looking great !!!!!!

 

Here is the process I would start with:

 

Wash it real good

Clay with Detail Spray

 

Then take more pictures for us.

 

Do you have a PC ?

 

Is so start with SHR (Swirl and Haze Remover) on an Orange pad.

You will probably need to do several passes.

 

Once we see the results of that we can decide on next steps :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

Watch the Junkman series of videos too, as you will be surprised how much correction can be achieved with a PC :banana::banana::banana:

 

I'm going to move these over to the polishing section to get you more responses :thumbsup:

Edited by Junkman2008
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Man that is one bad off F150!

 

Good luck with it. Expect to spend a couple days correcting it.

 

Over 12 hours for sure!

 

Make sure you do the wiper arms and put some VRT on the plastic.:thumbsup:

 

I have an F150 that's in need of correction too. I've been procrastinating though... lol :willy:

 

Chris

Edited by Chewy
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Man that is one bad off F150!

 

Good luck with it. Expect to spend a couple days correcting it.

 

Over 12 hours for sure!

 

Make sure you do the wiper arms and put some VRT on the plastic.:thumbsup:

 

I have an F150 that's in need of correction too. I've been procrastinating though... lol :willy:

 

Chris

 

ya i know its gonna take some time, but hopefully it will be worth my while. is this something you guys think can be saved?? i will post pics as i do it, but i havent ordered my stuff yet. ill do it this weekend sometime. so it will prolly be a week or 2 before any new pics are posted.

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Wow, you have a job ahead. I cannot wait to see how this plays out. I am fairly new user of Adams products, but I used the system on my 2007 Vette that has been garage kept and regularly waxed. It did wonders to clear up my finish but I am axious to see what will happen with this truck.

 

Good luck and keep us posted on the results. :2thumbs:

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Based on the level of oxidation I might recommend you forgo the claybar and jump right into polishing... I think that if you start with a claybar all you'll do is waste a lot of time and kill a bar without even completing all the panels.

 

The good news is that its totally a salvageable truck... all you're gonna need is the right supplies and to invest some time.

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Based on the level of oxidation I might recommend you forgo the claybar and jump right into polishing... I think that if you start with a claybar all you'll do is waste a lot of time and kill a bar without even completing all the panels.

 

The good news is that its totally a salvageable truck... all you're gonna need is the right supplies and to invest some time.

 

Why wouldn't he still clay it? I've heard before polishing at all you want to get the contaminants you can off so that when you polish it you aren't polishing with the contaminants that were on your paint.

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i may have to agree that clay bar may be a waste of time just because it is so bad its like putting a band aid on on amputation. the best thing i can tell you is clay bar half the hood and then hit it with the orange pad and then just do the other side with the the pad only and see if there is much difference. if you clay and it doesnt do much then just keep hitting it wiith the pad and do it more then once.

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Why wouldn't he still clay it? I've heard before polishing at all you want to get the contaminants you can off so that when you polish it you aren't polishing with the contaminants that were on your paint.

 

That is a good rule of thumb in 99% of cases but this is more of an advanced case and there will be many stages to polishing this one out. And remember, detailing is an art form, everyone has little differences in how they approach a problem :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

 

But that's just my opinion :cheers::cheers::cheers:

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Why wouldn't he still clay it? I've heard before polishing at all you want to get the contaminants you can off so that when you polish it you aren't polishing with the contaminants that were on your paint.

 

In this case the claybar wouldn't even survive the first panel. Oxidation comes off with a claybar when its this severe and the bar would be ruined.

 

Of course he could clay the non-oxidized areas first. As long as he completely washes it before beginning the polish there shouldn't be any problems skipping the clay.

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In this case the claybar wouldn't even survive the first panel. Oxidation comes off with a claybar when its this severe and the bar would be ruined.

 

Of course he could clay the non-oxidized areas first. As long as he completely washes it before beginning the polish there shouldn't be any problems skipping the clay.

 

 

Thanks!

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Jon, where in VA are you. Definitely looks like a big project ahead of you. I have the same issue on the roof of my truck, and IT CAN BE TAKEN CARE OF. If you are not to far, I am offering to help if need be. Good luck.

 

 

Way to go Dan :banana::banana::banana::banana:

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sorry guys, i havent been on in a few days. i still havent gotten around to ordering the kit. either later tonight or tomorrow night it will happen. and the only parts that have oxidation on it are the hood and over top of the cab. the rest of the truck is in pretty decent shape. and dan, thanks for the offer. im in chesapeake, about 15 min from va beach. where are you at?

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Absolutely as you will be doing it in stages anyways. SHR first, FMP second then Revive :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

We need to do a 180 on that: Revive is a chemical paint cleaner - that needs to come first. Use FMP before SHR: With an oxidized finish, it's never a good idea to attack it with the most aggressive polish in your arsenal - you can go from looking at dull paint to shiny sheet metal in no time flat depending on how bad it is.

 

Also be aware that, oftentimes, the oxidation WILL come back - polishing it is not a permanent solution, only a re-spray is. Consider that before investing any serious amount of time in trying to do a correction.

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We need to do a 180 on that: Revive is a chemical paint cleaner - that needs to come first. Use FMP before SHR: With an oxidized finish, it's never a good idea to attack it with the most aggressive polish in your arsenal - you can go from looking at dull paint to shiny sheet metal in no time flat depending on how bad it is.

 

Also be aware that, oftentimes, the oxidation WILL come back - polishing it is not a permanent solution, only a re-spray is. Consider that before investing any serious amount of time in trying to do a correction.

 

Okay that really just made me realize I know almost nothing (truly) about detailing :bow:

 

I think Adam should think about changing the name of Revive to Adam's paint cleaning because I thought it was a really fine polish.

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