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11 years of neglect


Memphis Senior

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I just purchased a 1999 Chevy S-10. It's to be my DD/work truck when I'm in TN.

Being an Adam's guy though, I still want the truck to look good.

I don't think the poor truck was ever waxed and probably rarely washed.

All the locks and hinges are rusted to the point they all squeaked when used.

So far I've used over 1/2 a can of WD-40 to get most things unstuck.

Needless to say, the paint is in pretty sad shape.

 

Now to my problem. I clayed the hood SEVERAL (4-5-6) times.

I did the bag test and while the hood is noticeable smoother, I can still feel bumps.

Also there are numerous, what appear to be, "blisters" all over the truck.

Not sure what's causing those.

 

My question is, should I continue to clay, or maybe get some "white polishing compound."

Compound the truck first and then use the clay bar again.

:help::confused:

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Sorry Bill. I did take pics for a before and after tread I had planned to do.

Unfortunately, I left the wire that connects my camera to the computer back in Calif.

(I'm 71, so I claim "senior moment.") :lolsmack: You'll have to wait until Oct when I get back to Calif.

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I just purchased a 1999 Chevy S-10. It's to be my DD/work truck when I'm in TN.

Being an Adam's guy though, I still want the truck to look good.

I don't think the poor truck was ever waxed and probably rarely washed.

All the locks and hinges are rusted to the point they all squeaked when used.

So far I've used over 1/2 a can of WD-40 to get most things unstuck.

Needless to say, the paint is in pretty sad shape.

 

Now to my problem. I clayed the hood SEVERAL (4-5-6) times.

I did the bag test and while the hood is noticeable smoother, I can still feel bumps.

Also there are numerous, what appear to be, "blisters" all over the truck.

Not sure what's causing those.

 

My question is, should I continue to clay, or maybe get some "white polishing compound."

Compound the truck first and then use the clay bar again.

 

Be careful with claying to much....Is the paint dull or faded?

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Originally Said by Memphis Senior

Be careful with claying to much....Is the paint dull or faded?

 

 

No the paint seems ok. Just lots of imbedded dirt/grit and those "blisters" I mentioned in my original post.

I tried the swirl & haze remover with the orange pad followed by fine machine car polish, white pad

and finally super wax, gray pad on half of the hood.

The unwaxed 1/2 is dark (forgot to mention the truck is black) with some reflection but no real "pop" to the color.

The 1/2 that's been waxed looks good in the shade. When taken into the sun you can see all the imperfections.

It does however have a nice shine with some reflective quality.

 

 

Sounds like it is time for a repaint w/o even seeing pictures.

 

FASN8N... This is a truck I got from a neighbor for $3000 just to run around in and haul "stuff" while I'm in TN.

About 4-6 months out of the year. I really don't want to spend any more money on it than I have to.

It doesn't have to be a show truck. I just want it to look "nice."

 

My Calif truck, a Ranger is my "pimped" ride. Here's a link if you're interested.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3387

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I understand what you are saying about not wanting to put a bunch of money in the truck, but if there are blisters in the paint, it is either rust forming under the paint or the clear coat might be ready to start separating from the base coat.

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I understand what you are saying about not wanting to put a bunch of money in the truck, but if there are blisters in the paint, it is either rust forming under the paint or the clear coat might be ready to start separating from the base coat.

 

Yep... "blisters" are never a good sign b/c it means there is serious failure somewhere. If its just the clear seperating then thats one thing, but if it is rust you've got much bigger problems.

 

At this point I'd say in order to slow down the inevitable lay a couple light coats of wax on it to keep whats left protected. Don't polish!! that could break the blisters loose then you'll just have a area for it to start peeling.

 

I had a friend pickup a 'beater' truck with a similar problem. Eventually he just sanded the truck down and rattle canned it flat black, so theres always that route :D

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Considering all the comments and descriptions of the truck, I'd just say keep at it until you get some decent results or simply stop enjoying the challenge. It sounds like the truck is just going to be what it is -- we have to realize that not all cars are going to shine up to that super-gloss standard. :thumbsup:

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Rust under the paint. That's what I'm afraid of. Mostly because of all the other rusted parts I've found on the truck,

as mentioned in my first post. So I guess it's back to PLAN A. LOL.

 

Plan A was I would get a 2-3 year old lease return, full size Ford F-150 or Chevy Silverado 1500.

Vehicles usually take the biggest hit on resale value in the first 2 years, hence my decision to get one 2-3 years old.

Also most leased vehicles don't get as beat up, when people know they will be charged for excessive ware & tare & mileage.

I figured I could get a truck that sold for $25-30K new for maybe $15-17K.

I saw a VERY nice 07 Lariat that had about 25K on the odometer and the asking price was in the $18K range.

 

Plan A went out the window when the stock market took a dump last year.

Since I don't borrow money, if I can't write a check for the full amount, I figure I can't afford whatever it is.

When the market comes back, I'll start shopping again.

While I'm waiting for that to happen, I'll just keep the S-10 as clean/shiny as possible and give up on the idea of making it "POP."

I have the Ranger for that.

 

Thanks everyone for all the help.

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I just purchased a 1999 Chevy S-10. It's to be my DD/work truck when I'm in TN.

Being an Adam's guy though, I still want the truck to look good.

I don't think the poor truck was ever waxed and probably rarely washed.

All the locks and hinges are rusted to the point they all squeaked when used.

So far I've used over 1/2 a can of WD-40 to get most things unstuck.

Needless to say, the paint is in pretty sad shape.

 

Now to my problem. I clayed the hood SEVERAL (4-5-6) times.

I did the bag test and while the hood is noticeable smoother, I can still feel bumps.

Also there are numerous, what appear to be, "blisters" all over the truck.

Not sure what's causing those.

 

My question is, should I continue to clay, or maybe get some "white polishing compound."

Compound the truck first and then use the clay bar again.

:help::confused:

Hey nick

 

I know this is an old thread but why not work on it to try and get the paint as good as can be expected.Also you can consider this a learning experience/curve so when you get another DD you will know just what and how to accomplish it for a great detail, not to mention a better detailer!

 

The first thing I do on something I'm unsure of is use my craftsman twin tripod halogen worklight to get the most light on the surface and check as good as possible ( I even use my brinkmann dual xenon light and my carson 10X lumiloupe to check on an area I may have questions about)

 

Next after a complete wash or two I will then use a cleaner (swirl & haze remover with the orange pad) also in your post you never said how many applications you did with the SHR ( sometimes 1 application isn't enough it offten times takes 2 to 3 applications)also the most important step to any detail is the cleaning step, the more time you spend in this step will reflect your outcome IE:deepth of shine-clarity-reflectivity(on a darker paints)and something were all after that swirl free soaking wet look!

 

Anyways after you've done your cleaning step, then go to your claying because if you just clayed first on such a neclected surface your going to be loading-up that piece of clay pretty fast and before you get half way through your piece of clay will be trash(no matter how many times you kneed it into itself and pick out all the trash out off it) And for this reason it's so important for this step in a neglected paint.

 

Now you've removed all the above surface bonded contaminants you need to go after the contaminants thats in your paint so go back to your SHR and do another 2 or 3 applications, when you get this far you will see what I'm talking about.(Don't know if this is a Single stage paint on your S-10 but if it is you will be smiling pretty good now)

 

Now let's bring some life back to that paint by applying some polish, (adams fine machine polish using the white pad) because overtime direct sunlight and the exposure to outdoor environments has takin away the resins (oils) from your paint and need to be replenished back into the pores of your paint to bring out the glossy and great reflectivity, More or less it's like lotion for your skin but it's polish for your paint just work it in and a healthier paint will appear!

 

Now after all the hard work comes the time I look forward too! applying and locking in all that beauty, each person is different and what they like but to me there's nothing like applying 2 thin coats of a paste wax, sometimes when I feel energized I will apply a thin coat of a sealant and try to wait atleast 30 minutes or if I don't have to drive it or need it I will wait until the next day for the sealant to cure and then apply a thin coat of the paste wax and then wait at least an hour or so and apply another thin coat of paste wax. I know it's sometimes is a heated topic about layering but in MY OPINION more then 3 applications of any wax liquid or paste is it I see no change in the shine or gloss, but it all comes down to what looks good in your eyes because it's your paint and you know what looks good to your eyes.

 

Anyway getting long winded sorry! but talk about a deep wet looking shine that will blow your mind, My mustang has/had the same problem with the bubbling on the back driver-side quarter for the last 10 years (garaged kept for at least 6-kids took over my garage! LOL) anyway I would use painters tape to tape off around that area since I tape off all trim and moldings anyway so my pc wouldn't hit it and I would do that area by hand very lightly.

 

Hope I've been of some help:thumbsup:

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Thanks for reminding me about this tread Dan. I had forgotten about it. Here are a few pics of the truck.

Don't know what I did with the before photos. Probably deleted them by accident. (another senior moment.):lolsmack:

 

This is the S-10 after a through washing and claying. Doesn't look to bad from a distance.

DSCN1335.jpgDSCN1332.jpg

 

 

Here are just a few of the numerous scratches on the sides of the truck. I'm sure someone took this truck off road on a regular basis where it was abused by tree branches and such.

Someone tried to clean it up some by covering the scratches with a brushed on paint and then a coat of wax to make is blend in. No doubt to try to bring up the resale value. It didn't work.

Scratch3.jpgScratchDriversidebed.jpg

 

 

The front bumper on the right has many pot marks like this. Not sure if they are stone chips or it's blistering.

Scratch2.jpgFrontbumper.jpg

 

 

On the left is after the first pass with SHR and a coat of MSW. On the right is after the 2nd pass with SHR. Note the trim below the hood. The paint is completely worn off in spots because I don't think this truck was ever waxed in the 11 years the previous owner had it.

Hood.jpgHood3.jpg

 

 

This final shot is after 3 passes with SHR, 2 coats of MSW and 2 coats of BW. Not what you guys are use to on a black car, but for my first try and considering what I had to start with, not to shabby IMO.

You can't see it in these photos, but the baggie test reveals thousands of "bumps" in the surface. At this point I no longer think it's dirt that can be removed by further claying. I think because of the neglect, it's rusting from the inside out. This summer I plan to practice wet sanding and spray painting on some of the scratches. Since I'll probably be keeping this truck for a few years (Unless the stock market come roaring back) so I'll have plenty of chances to perfect my detailing skills.

Hood2.jpg

Edited by Memphis Senior
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