HFX Detailing

So after nearly 10 months of applying Glass Sealant, it is still going decently strong. Barely any wiper movement needed. Here is a quick video showing the Glass Sealant being a trooper:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_GxA5hKOB4
 
 
Technique was pretty basic.
After a wash, I clayed the window. Put the Glass Sealant on as per instructions on the bottle. 
 
 
I fear I will never get to empty the bottle. I did not even use a noticeable amount... for $20...it is probably about $0.25 per application!

So after nearly 10 months of applying Glass Sealant, it is still going decently strong. Barely any wiper movement needed. Here is a quick video showing the Glass Sealant being a trooper:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_GxA5hKOB4
 
 
Technique was pretty basic.
After a wash, I clayed the window. Put the Glass Sealant on as per instructions on the bottle. 
 
 
I fear I will never get to empty the bottle. I did not even use a noticeable amount... for $20...it is probably about $0.25 per application!

Under the care section for the wash pads, the Adams website mentions using a brush or comb to get rid of deadlocks. I was a little nervous at first to do this, so I called up the product help line to be sure I was using proper techniques; turns out, these pads are pretty good for brushing whatever way you want.
 
I chose to use a hair brush with a handle.Something similar to this one: 
 
After little effort and some time later, my pad was as good as new! 
 

 
 
That is a noticable difference. The test wash that followed proved to be satisfactory. There was a huge difference in using the pad before/after. Shame on me for letting the pad get so bad.
 
So there it is, don't be afraid guys to get out that hair brush and restore your wash pads!

my understanding so far from what I read is most of the gallons are pretty good. the brilliant glaze seems to be the shortest. 
 
brilliant glaze last me a long time. you need so little to go so far. I would probably not buy a gallon of that I suppose. But my shampoo, APC, detail spray...gallon me up!

You need more buckets.
 
While washing my car, I separate my towels into buckets with cleaning solution to help clean them later.
 
You can never have too many buckets!

Under the care section for the wash pads, the Adams website mentions using a brush or comb to get rid of deadlocks. I was a little nervous at first to do this, so I called up the product help line to be sure I was using proper techniques; turns out, these pads are pretty good for brushing whatever way you want.
 
I chose to use a hair brush with a handle.Something similar to this one: 
 
After little effort and some time later, my pad was as good as new! 
 

 
 
That is a noticable difference. The test wash that followed proved to be satisfactory. There was a huge difference in using the pad before/after. Shame on me for letting the pad get so bad.
 
So there it is, don't be afraid guys to get out that hair brush and restore your wash pads!

If it is road paint, you could try to contact the construction company / whoever hired them to put a claim in. They might pay to remove it.

So...how long do the products last? I have a sealed bottle of Glaze from nearly a year ago...

alright. Here are my test:
 
Cleaned my tires good. Used some APC and GWC. They were not perfect, I could have cleaned them more.
 
Applied the Tire shine. Looked amazing. After a week, same shine as the first day.
 
After about 2 weeks and a few days the shine was gone from the outer wheel, but towards the rim was still there. This was about 1200 KM of driving, in rain and shine, going through some dirt trails, and driving . . . not so grandma-ish. 
 
All-in-all the V.R.T last longer, but I did like the Tire Shine. 
 
I have some pictures ill see if I can upload later. I took one every couple of days.

Never tried the light ones. I have keystone and keystone ice. I enjoy them. They are made by the same brewery as coors. as far as I am aware. The box works PERFECT. When I first saw the inserts, I thought to myself, there is NO way those will fit my bottles. Little did I know... 
 
I have to drive pretty far to get keystone, so I only get it when I am already driving through the area. A 24 here is about $42-$50 and a 24 of keystone is $30. So I paid $30 for 24 beer AND an amazing container for my bottles (car cleaning supplies, not beer )
 
    That is what I like to hear! thanks

This!!
 
My buddies thought all towels were the same. I handed them the double-soft from Adams and it blew their mind. 

Awesome job Jerome, I learned alot from this. Thanks for the detailed write up

Summary
 
Hey folks. I have done a few write-ups now and I try to emphasize a certain technique or portion of a detail with each post. Today's winner is the scary and avoided interior detail. I enjoy the interior as you can get intimate with the vehicle and release dirt that has been hidden in crevices for years.
 
This post will be a bit different than the rest of mine. Instead of having money shots at the end, I will have a picture intensive how-to so you get a better idea for what I did. I will warn you, just because this is my technique does not make it correct or safe . . . please do your research and ask questions if there is something that sticks out to you. 
 
Enough chit-chat, lets get down and dirty!
 
 
The Products
 
Total Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx Adams Detailing Swabs: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-925-adams-interior-detailing-swabs-10-pack.aspx Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx Utility Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx Carpet and Upholstry Brush: URL Not found (older product) Single Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-588-adams-single-soft-towel-is-back.aspx Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx Hex Applicator (Yellow): URL Not Found (older product) Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1071-new-adams-waterless-wash-towel-combo.aspx    
Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac An empty 24 (see pics below)   The Process   To kick things off, here is how I transport my cleaning supplies. It is an empty 24 case of beer that has sockets for each beer. It just so happens that they fit my adams bottles perfectly, as you will see below:  
This makes carrying the products very easy. I use to just throw them in my wash bucket, or a big bin. This way they do not move around, and I can still manage them easily.     I started with the Door Jambs. They have not been done in awhile, but were not too bad. I used Waterless Wash and a Waterless Wash Towel to clean this portion.      I sprayed a bit of product on the dirt and gently wiped the dirt away.     As you can see, the towel got very dirty. This meant I had to flip the towel often to get a clean spot. You do not want to scratch the door jambs, polishing them would be a pain!     Next, I used Buttery Wax to give the door jambs some extra protection and to make cleaning easier next time.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Along with going from this:     To this:     The shine achieved was satisfactory:     Once the door jambs were all done, I vacuumed the car. I took the mats out to make sure the dirt underneath them was done. I used my Ridgid Vacuum which has a mat option as you can see below:     While using a brush, be careful around embroidery and edges, the thread can pull easily.   Here is a 50-50 (close enough) shot of the mat after a quick vacuum.     To make sure I got out the dirt, I used the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner and Brush. I sprayed a bit on the carpet and scrubbed.     After, I used a Utility Towel to blot the mat to get rid of the dirt and excess cleaner.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Once all the mats were taking care of, I moved onto the interior floor. I used a smaller hose piece to get all of the corners and sides of the car.     The same attachment I used for the crevices of the seats. This vacuum has enough power to handle this no problem.     I also used a softer brush for the seats themselves. You want to be careful because you do not want to pull up the threads. I use little to no force and let the vacuum do its job.    There was a nice salt stain on the rear floor that I tackled.     I sprayed some Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner on the spot and agitated it with my finger.     I then used a Utility Towel to pick up any dirt and excess cleaner.     Here is a shot of the left stain being removed, while the right stain was untouched.     For the right stain, I used the Carpet Brush to agitate it (you can choose either, or)     Finally, we have a stain free rug!     Next I get into the nitty-gritty. Using a Detailing Swap I get into crevices. Some people argue to use cotton swabs as they are cheaper. Personally, after trying a Detailing Swab, I will not go back. They don't leave cotton behind, they are durable, and re-usable. I typically use two swabs. One with some Total Interior Detailer on it, the other to pick up excess Detailer.    You will notice one swab is dirtier than the other. The first one goes in first, the second makes sure all the dirt was taken care of.     This lets me easily get to areas not reachable before. Taken my cup holder from this:     To this:     I like to hunt for crevices not usually cleaned. Such as this hood release latch. Here is the before:     And after:     I also find the swabs useful for controls. Make sure you do not have a lot of product when you clean these areas, you do not want liquid in the buttons!   This looks easier:     Than this:     When using the Total Interior Detailer on the dash and plastics, I spray some on a Utility Towel and then wipe away. Here is a before and after of the plastic around the door area:   From this:     To this:     If you cannot tell, the Total Interior Detailer not only provides UV protection, but brings a nice deep color back to the interior.   Here is a 50-50 area where there was Interior Detailer, and no Interior Detailer:     And, the same spot fully wiped down:     Some spots, just Total Interior Detailer is not enough. You will need to use Leather and Interior Cleaner, followed by the Total Interior Detailer.   Here is a spot where salt splashed up (from cleaning the carpet) and dried on the plastic:     After spraying the area with some Leather and Interior Cleaner, and a fresh Utility Towel, the Interior Detailer was used (with a separate towel). Here was the end result:     Using the same method, I cleaned this badly scuffed and dirty side step. Here is the before:     And After:     That is all for now! Here are some (few) after shots:   The rear door:     Shifter:     Driver Console:     Dash:     Like I said earlier, this was not perfect. You can still see some dirt here, but it cleaned up well for the most part (this is a decision you must make, how clean to go. You can spend 1 hour, or 10...but what benefit does it have to you, and the customer).     Passenger Side:     Passenger Seat:     Passenger Looking In:         Bonus: Pro Tip #1   Always point the blower of the vacuum away from the vehicle           Bonus: Pro Tip #2   Turn dome lights off when the doors are open (I have drained batteries before by not doing this)       Bonus: Pro Tip #3   When doing windows, if you are having issues reaching tights areas, wrap the Window Microfiber around your hand like so:       This allows for you to have stability, and get tight areas. I use my finger tips (or finger nails) to get into tight areas along the edge, and corners.My thumb keeps the clothe wrapped up tightly.   Bonus: Pro Tip #4   Always clean your vacuum after. This helps prevent build-up, reduce risk of blowing dirt, and keeps maintenance down. If you ever waited to wash a towel and regretting not doing it right away...this is the same thing.   Here is the inside of my vacuum after one session (it was FULLY cleaned before hand):     Here is what a BRAND NEW filter looked like, after one session:     That's it for now! Questions? Comments?      

Summary
 
Hey folks. I have done a few write-ups now and I try to emphasize a certain technique or portion of a detail with each post. Today's winner is the scary and avoided interior detail. I enjoy the interior as you can get intimate with the vehicle and release dirt that has been hidden in crevices for years.
 
This post will be a bit different than the rest of mine. Instead of having money shots at the end, I will have a picture intensive how-to so you get a better idea for what I did. I will warn you, just because this is my technique does not make it correct or safe . . . please do your research and ask questions if there is something that sticks out to you. 
 
Enough chit-chat, lets get down and dirty!
 
 
The Products
 
Total Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx Adams Detailing Swabs: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-925-adams-interior-detailing-swabs-10-pack.aspx Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx Utility Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx Carpet and Upholstry Brush: URL Not found (older product) Single Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-588-adams-single-soft-towel-is-back.aspx Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx Hex Applicator (Yellow): URL Not Found (older product) Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1071-new-adams-waterless-wash-towel-combo.aspx    
Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac An empty 24 (see pics below)   The Process   To kick things off, here is how I transport my cleaning supplies. It is an empty 24 case of beer that has sockets for each beer. It just so happens that they fit my adams bottles perfectly, as you will see below:  
This makes carrying the products very easy. I use to just throw them in my wash bucket, or a big bin. This way they do not move around, and I can still manage them easily.     I started with the Door Jambs. They have not been done in awhile, but were not too bad. I used Waterless Wash and a Waterless Wash Towel to clean this portion.      I sprayed a bit of product on the dirt and gently wiped the dirt away.     As you can see, the towel got very dirty. This meant I had to flip the towel often to get a clean spot. You do not want to scratch the door jambs, polishing them would be a pain!     Next, I used Buttery Wax to give the door jambs some extra protection and to make cleaning easier next time.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Along with going from this:     To this:     The shine achieved was satisfactory:     Once the door jambs were all done, I vacuumed the car. I took the mats out to make sure the dirt underneath them was done. I used my Ridgid Vacuum which has a mat option as you can see below:     While using a brush, be careful around embroidery and edges, the thread can pull easily.   Here is a 50-50 (close enough) shot of the mat after a quick vacuum.     To make sure I got out the dirt, I used the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner and Brush. I sprayed a bit on the carpet and scrubbed.     After, I used a Utility Towel to blot the mat to get rid of the dirt and excess cleaner.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Once all the mats were taking care of, I moved onto the interior floor. I used a smaller hose piece to get all of the corners and sides of the car.     The same attachment I used for the crevices of the seats. This vacuum has enough power to handle this no problem.     I also used a softer brush for the seats themselves. You want to be careful because you do not want to pull up the threads. I use little to no force and let the vacuum do its job.    There was a nice salt stain on the rear floor that I tackled.     I sprayed some Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner on the spot and agitated it with my finger.     I then used a Utility Towel to pick up any dirt and excess cleaner.     Here is a shot of the left stain being removed, while the right stain was untouched.     For the right stain, I used the Carpet Brush to agitate it (you can choose either, or)     Finally, we have a stain free rug!     Next I get into the nitty-gritty. Using a Detailing Swap I get into crevices. Some people argue to use cotton swabs as they are cheaper. Personally, after trying a Detailing Swab, I will not go back. They don't leave cotton behind, they are durable, and re-usable. I typically use two swabs. One with some Total Interior Detailer on it, the other to pick up excess Detailer.    You will notice one swab is dirtier than the other. The first one goes in first, the second makes sure all the dirt was taken care of.     This lets me easily get to areas not reachable before. Taken my cup holder from this:     To this:     I like to hunt for crevices not usually cleaned. Such as this hood release latch. Here is the before:     And after:     I also find the swabs useful for controls. Make sure you do not have a lot of product when you clean these areas, you do not want liquid in the buttons!   This looks easier:     Than this:     When using the Total Interior Detailer on the dash and plastics, I spray some on a Utility Towel and then wipe away. Here is a before and after of the plastic around the door area:   From this:     To this:     If you cannot tell, the Total Interior Detailer not only provides UV protection, but brings a nice deep color back to the interior.   Here is a 50-50 area where there was Interior Detailer, and no Interior Detailer:     And, the same spot fully wiped down:     Some spots, just Total Interior Detailer is not enough. You will need to use Leather and Interior Cleaner, followed by the Total Interior Detailer.   Here is a spot where salt splashed up (from cleaning the carpet) and dried on the plastic:     After spraying the area with some Leather and Interior Cleaner, and a fresh Utility Towel, the Interior Detailer was used (with a separate towel). Here was the end result:     Using the same method, I cleaned this badly scuffed and dirty side step. Here is the before:     And After:     That is all for now! Here are some (few) after shots:   The rear door:     Shifter:     Driver Console:     Dash:     Like I said earlier, this was not perfect. You can still see some dirt here, but it cleaned up well for the most part (this is a decision you must make, how clean to go. You can spend 1 hour, or 10...but what benefit does it have to you, and the customer).     Passenger Side:     Passenger Seat:     Passenger Looking In:         Bonus: Pro Tip #1   Always point the blower of the vacuum away from the vehicle           Bonus: Pro Tip #2   Turn dome lights off when the doors are open (I have drained batteries before by not doing this)       Bonus: Pro Tip #3   When doing windows, if you are having issues reaching tights areas, wrap the Window Microfiber around your hand like so:       This allows for you to have stability, and get tight areas. I use my finger tips (or finger nails) to get into tight areas along the edge, and corners.My thumb keeps the clothe wrapped up tightly.   Bonus: Pro Tip #4   Always clean your vacuum after. This helps prevent build-up, reduce risk of blowing dirt, and keeps maintenance down. If you ever waited to wash a towel and regretting not doing it right away...this is the same thing.   Here is the inside of my vacuum after one session (it was FULLY cleaned before hand):     Here is what a BRAND NEW filter looked like, after one session:     That's it for now! Questions? Comments?      

Nice job in the interior. Those swabs are life savers.

Never have I ever read such an excellent write-up on the interior detailing. Good job!
 
How many times can you wash one of the swabs before it wears out?

Great write-up!

Summary
 
Hey folks. I have done a few write-ups now and I try to emphasize a certain technique or portion of a detail with each post. Today's winner is the scary and avoided interior detail. I enjoy the interior as you can get intimate with the vehicle and release dirt that has been hidden in crevices for years.
 
This post will be a bit different than the rest of mine. Instead of having money shots at the end, I will have a picture intensive how-to so you get a better idea for what I did. I will warn you, just because this is my technique does not make it correct or safe . . . please do your research and ask questions if there is something that sticks out to you. 
 
Enough chit-chat, lets get down and dirty!
 
 
The Products
 
Total Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx Adams Detailing Swabs: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-925-adams-interior-detailing-swabs-10-pack.aspx Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx Utility Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx Carpet and Upholstry Brush: URL Not found (older product) Single Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-588-adams-single-soft-towel-is-back.aspx Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx Hex Applicator (Yellow): URL Not Found (older product) Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1071-new-adams-waterless-wash-towel-combo.aspx    
Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac An empty 24 (see pics below)   The Process   To kick things off, here is how I transport my cleaning supplies. It is an empty 24 case of beer that has sockets for each beer. It just so happens that they fit my adams bottles perfectly, as you will see below:  
This makes carrying the products very easy. I use to just throw them in my wash bucket, or a big bin. This way they do not move around, and I can still manage them easily.     I started with the Door Jambs. They have not been done in awhile, but were not too bad. I used Waterless Wash and a Waterless Wash Towel to clean this portion.      I sprayed a bit of product on the dirt and gently wiped the dirt away.     As you can see, the towel got very dirty. This meant I had to flip the towel often to get a clean spot. You do not want to scratch the door jambs, polishing them would be a pain!     Next, I used Buttery Wax to give the door jambs some extra protection and to make cleaning easier next time.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Along with going from this:     To this:     The shine achieved was satisfactory:     Once the door jambs were all done, I vacuumed the car. I took the mats out to make sure the dirt underneath them was done. I used my Ridgid Vacuum which has a mat option as you can see below:     While using a brush, be careful around embroidery and edges, the thread can pull easily.   Here is a 50-50 (close enough) shot of the mat after a quick vacuum.     To make sure I got out the dirt, I used the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner and Brush. I sprayed a bit on the carpet and scrubbed.     After, I used a Utility Towel to blot the mat to get rid of the dirt and excess cleaner.     The result was going from this:     To this:     Once all the mats were taking care of, I moved onto the interior floor. I used a smaller hose piece to get all of the corners and sides of the car.     The same attachment I used for the crevices of the seats. This vacuum has enough power to handle this no problem.     I also used a softer brush for the seats themselves. You want to be careful because you do not want to pull up the threads. I use little to no force and let the vacuum do its job.    There was a nice salt stain on the rear floor that I tackled.     I sprayed some Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner on the spot and agitated it with my finger.     I then used a Utility Towel to pick up any dirt and excess cleaner.     Here is a shot of the left stain being removed, while the right stain was untouched.     For the right stain, I used the Carpet Brush to agitate it (you can choose either, or)     Finally, we have a stain free rug!     Next I get into the nitty-gritty. Using a Detailing Swap I get into crevices. Some people argue to use cotton swabs as they are cheaper. Personally, after trying a Detailing Swab, I will not go back. They don't leave cotton behind, they are durable, and re-usable. I typically use two swabs. One with some Total Interior Detailer on it, the other to pick up excess Detailer.    You will notice one swab is dirtier than the other. The first one goes in first, the second makes sure all the dirt was taken care of.     This lets me easily get to areas not reachable before. Taken my cup holder from this:     To this:     I like to hunt for crevices not usually cleaned. Such as this hood release latch. Here is the before:     And after:     I also find the swabs useful for controls. Make sure you do not have a lot of product when you clean these areas, you do not want liquid in the buttons!   This looks easier:     Than this:     When using the Total Interior Detailer on the dash and plastics, I spray some on a Utility Towel and then wipe away. Here is a before and after of the plastic around the door area:   From this:     To this:     If you cannot tell, the Total Interior Detailer not only provides UV protection, but brings a nice deep color back to the interior.   Here is a 50-50 area where there was Interior Detailer, and no Interior Detailer:     And, the same spot fully wiped down:     Some spots, just Total Interior Detailer is not enough. You will need to use Leather and Interior Cleaner, followed by the Total Interior Detailer.   Here is a spot where salt splashed up (from cleaning the carpet) and dried on the plastic:     After spraying the area with some Leather and Interior Cleaner, and a fresh Utility Towel, the Interior Detailer was used (with a separate towel). Here was the end result:     Using the same method, I cleaned this badly scuffed and dirty side step. Here is the before:     And After:     That is all for now! Here are some (few) after shots:   The rear door:     Shifter:     Driver Console:     Dash:     Like I said earlier, this was not perfect. You can still see some dirt here, but it cleaned up well for the most part (this is a decision you must make, how clean to go. You can spend 1 hour, or 10...but what benefit does it have to you, and the customer).     Passenger Side:     Passenger Seat:     Passenger Looking In:         Bonus: Pro Tip #1   Always point the blower of the vacuum away from the vehicle           Bonus: Pro Tip #2   Turn dome lights off when the doors are open (I have drained batteries before by not doing this)       Bonus: Pro Tip #3   When doing windows, if you are having issues reaching tights areas, wrap the Window Microfiber around your hand like so:       This allows for you to have stability, and get tight areas. I use my finger tips (or finger nails) to get into tight areas along the edge, and corners.My thumb keeps the clothe wrapped up tightly.   Bonus: Pro Tip #4   Always clean your vacuum after. This helps prevent build-up, reduce risk of blowing dirt, and keeps maintenance down. If you ever waited to wash a towel and regretting not doing it right away...this is the same thing.   Here is the inside of my vacuum after one session (it was FULLY cleaned before hand):     Here is what a BRAND NEW filter looked like, after one session:     That's it for now! Questions? Comments?      

Hey Folks!
 
Since people seemed to like my last write-up I am doing another! This time I learned from my shots last time and tried to get a bit more creative this time to help people follow the timeline. As before, I will give a brief description, list the products, explain the process in detail with pictures, then post the money shots. 
 
 
Description
 
I was tasked to detail this Honda car which has very deceptive paint. The paint color you will see in the photos hides dirt very well. Sometimes, when you wash the vehicle you will barely notice. However, I made this puppy shine. I did a exterior wash, clay, and wax followed by an interior vacuum, and detail of the dash. 
 
The Products
 
The following products were used. Note: Last time I posted the canadian site, this time I will use the American as it seems the forums is mostly American.
 
Green-Wheel Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-436-adams-green-wheel-cleaner.aspx
All Purpose Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx
*Fender Brush: http://www.adamspolishes.ca/p-411-adams-20-fender-brush.aspx
Wheel Woolie: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1091-adams-new-wheel-woolie.aspx
Lug and Nut Brush: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-885-adams-trim-lug-nut-brush.aspx
Car Wash Shampoo: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-31-adams-car-wash-shampoo.aspx
2 Grit Guards: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-56-adams-grit-guard-insert.aspx
Adams Tire Brush: Could not find on either .com or .ca site
Clay Bar: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1004-new-adams-made-in-the-usa-detailing-clay-bar.aspx
Detail Spray: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-870-adams-detail-spray.aspx
Waterless Wash: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-440-adams-waterless-car-wash.aspx
Drying Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-106-adams-great-white-microfiber-drying-towel.aspx
Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx
Carpet and Upholstry Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx
Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx
Leather and Interior Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-131-adams-leather-interior-cleaner.aspx
Utility Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx
2 wash pads (9x9 and 11x11): http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-83-adams-professional-car-wash-pad.aspx
Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx
Glass Cleaning Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-422-adams-microfiber-glass-cleaning-towels-2.aspx
Double Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-494-adams-double-soft-microfiber-towel.aspx
 
*Note: Items marked with a *, I could not find one .com so used .ca
 
 
Timeline and How-tos
 
The first thing I like to do is go around the whole car and take pictures. This way I know what I am dealing with and I know the trouble areas. Here are a few shots of the vehicle.
 
The car does not look too bad. Lets get a bit closer.

 
The front was bad, had plenty of caked on bugs. No good. This will take some time to get rid of. You can pre treat the bugs with a shot of detail spray or APC, but wait until a few minutes before your wash.

 
That is a lot of bird poop! Luckily it looks like most if not all of it can be rinsed off. You do not want to drag bird poop across paint as it can easily damage it. Bird poop has lots of contaminants in it.

 
Oh my! Look at that lovely salt. We have some work to do here for sure. 

 
Some interior stains, but not too bad.

 
Thankfully, I am allergic to dust. Wait, no....that is a bad thing!

 
Now that we have taken a look at what we must do, I like to start with the wheels. This way, when you wash the car no gunk from the wheels goes on the paint. It also guarantees you will not mix the wheel water with the paint water. 
 
The wheel:

 
I started with spraying some green wheel cleaner and used the tire brush to hit the wheels. Unfortunately, I was not happy with the results. Some dirt was lifting up, but I knew there was more to get. I knew I needed to use something stronger.
 

 
Since Green Wheel Cleaner did not cut it, I used All Purpose cleaner then agitated the wheel with my wheel brush. See the difference?
 

It is so satisfying seeing that dirt come off.

 
I used Green Wheel cleaner again and now the wheel is all clean (notice all the white suds).

 
After rinsing away all of the cleaner I used my lug brush. I sprayed some Green Wheel Cleaner and stuck the brush over the bolts and twisted them.

 
You can see from the picture the bottom bolt is clean while the bolt on the left is visibly dirty.

 
To get inbehind the rims I used the amazing Wheel Woolie. Spray some Green Wheel Cleaner on it and rub-a-dub-dub. You can see the dirty melt off.

 
For the rest of the rim I just sprayed it with the Green Wheel Cleaner and then agitated it with a microfiber, and the lug brush. I would have used my turbo stick, if my drill did not decide to die (always have a backup method!).
 
The finished Tire:

 
And this is why you do not mix tire water, with water for your paint. All that extra dirt, raises the chance of harming your precious paint.


 
Now to rinse the car (pre-wash). I like to use the jet setting if you have it. I work away in a continuous line until I hit the whole car. I start from top and work my way to the bottom. Then I go around again with a wider spray to make sure I got everything. Tough areas I like to spray for longer to loosen up that dirt. Make sure you spray crevices to release hidden treasures (nasty dirt you don't want during the final rinse).
 
Here, you will see I am spraying the bird poop away. Always pick a spray that works. A wide spray was useless, but a jet spray worked well.
This would take all day with this spray:

 
With this spray, we are zooming along! (Find the spray that works for you and the vehicle)

 
Remember to always spray crevices! Look at this dirt. If you forgot to do the crevice, this would have came out after your wash during your dry.


 
Here is how I do my top down spray (I move left, to right, slowly moving downwards):

 
After, I do a final pre-wash soak by using a wider spray. The prep work is the most important step! Now to wash, I have 2 buckets. One is labeled wash, and the other is rinse. You do not want to mix these up, and both have grit guards you can rub your wash pad with each time you use it. 
 

 
I do not have many pictures from here on as I really wanted to focus the pictures on the above tire process. I took my wash pad and washed the top half of the vehicle. Since this vehicle was pretty dirty I took advantage of the grit guard often (rinsing twice for one panel if I felt I had too). I would check my pad often to make sure no dirt was on it. On the lower half, I used my smaller pad. Having two pads saves you from cross-contaminating them. The bottom half usually is where most of the gritty dirt hides and you do not want to transfer that to the top half.
 
Pro-tip: Always check the side skirts on the bottom for tar/oils. I have pretty much ruined a pad after getting tar stuck in it. After that I usually check with my hand or a microfibre used for my wheels. If you get tar stuck in your pad early on, you can't use it during your wash. It will not wash out easily or fully from my experience. This car, had tar. It embedded itself well within my check-microfibre I used.
 
After everything was rinsed, I clayed the vehicle. It was not that bad. The worst was the front with all the caked in bugs. For the clay, I simply spray an area with some detail spray (I did this while the vehicle was still wet to save on detail spray) and then rub the clay until satisfied. Since this vehicle had a lot of dirt that lifted from the clay, I simply washed the car again after with fresh water.
 
Once I washed it, I sprayed a bit of detail spray and dried it with the Great White towel. The detail spray helps absorb water and gives a nice shine.
 
Now I moved onto my buttery wax. I applied it one panel at a time and did a finger swipe test to see if it was done. If you swipe a spot and it smudges, it is not ready to come off. If you see clear paint underneath, it is time to take the wax off. I find buttery goes on nicely and comes off easy. The wicked smell is to die for.
 
Now the exterior was done, I moved onto the interior.
Always remember to roll down the windows a bit to get the top piece of dirt that is always forgotten. After, roll them back up and finish cleaning them. I like to spray Glass Cleaner on a glass cleaning towel and rub side-to-side then up-and-down. Then I buff away with a clean utility towel.
 
The windshield can be a pain sometimes. I wrap my hand in the towel and use my backhand to clean the hard to reach spots.
 
Since the car was bad, I pulled out the rugs and mats. I vacuumed them all and the carpet. I hit the salt on the carpet mats with the Carpet and Upholstry Cleaner and used the Upholstry brush to agitate. I used a clean towel to absorb the extra cleaner and dirt. 
 
The mats where bad (plastic ones) so I used a stream of water and a clean towel to clean them. I don't like using much on these as you don't want peoples feet slipping. They were not coming clean so a bit of car shampoo worked wonders. After a super good rinse, I dried them a little with another towel. The sun did the rest.
 
Once I had the interior fully vacuumed I worked on cleaning and dressing the interior. I used the Leather and Interior cleaner first. I sprayed a little bit on a Utility towel and got rid of the dirt. I finished with another towel which I had sprayed with interior detailer. I used the detailing swabs to get the tight spots and the vents. 
 
After putting everything back into the vehicle, it was time to take some final photos and call it a day. This is what you have all been waiting for, right?
 
 
Money-Shots!
 
50/50 of tire (used photoshop to put together the before and after)

 
That console!

 
From old, to new. The front end (look at that bug deflector!)

 
I love this shot. 

 
You can see some of my adams gear in the back here

 
The whole interior got this clean

 
That is all for now! Questions, comments, love, hate?

Hey guys. This here is a 2012 Red Lancer, GT model. It has seen roughly 70,000 KM's and was improperly washed via Dish Soap, bad techniques, and Dealer Washes. The swirl marks were pretty bad and the customer wanted the car looking new again. I used a big range of products to achieve great results. You will see the list of products below, followed by a detailed step-by-step guide on what I did. Lastly I will post some money-shots.
 
 
The Products*
 
Flex Polisher - Could not locate on website
2 step polishing system - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-738-adams-basic-7-foam-pad-machine-polishing-kit.aspx
Double Soft MF - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-494-adams-double-soft-microfiber-towel.aspx
2 Bucket kit - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-523-adams-complete-2-bucket-wash-kit.aspx
Glaze and Americana Wax - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-566-adams-premium-shine-kit.aspx
Super V.R.T - Could not locate on website
Machine Super Sealant - Could not locate on website
All Purpose Cleaner (APC) - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx
Wheel Brush - Could not locate on website
Clay and Detail Spray - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1005-new-adams-made-in-the-usa-detailing-clay-combo.aspx
 
*note: to make things simpler, if products I used are available in a bundle, I bundled them
 
The Process
 
Inspection
I always inspect a vehicle before starting. I like to take lots of pictures so there is:
1) Proof of pre existing damage
2) I know what I need to clean and fix
 
The car was not too bad from far as you can see below. However, once you get close you notice all the defects. In the light you can see some serious swirls built up too.
 
The car pre-wash looks decent here:

  Once you get closer, you see the dirt:   At the right angles and light, you can see the damage (swirls):   The wash - Wheels I always start with the wheels. You do not want to wash them with the rest of the car as mixing dirty wheel water is a no-no. Take a look below as this was the water after one tire.   These tires were pretty dull looking:   I sprayed the tires down with water to loosen up the dirt. I then sprayed All Purpose Cleaner on the tires, using the foam setting. I find the foam setting clings to the tires better and you can literally see the dirt lifting up and drip off. Below, you will see what the All Purpose Cleaner is lifting up after agitating with a Wheel Brush   After agitating the wheel I spray the dirt off. I spray it good and aim the spray along the rim where it meets the tire as the dirt and APC can really get stuck in there good. I usually repeat this process until you no longer get dirt lifting up but the cleaner is whitish.   Next I used a Micro Fiber towel with some soapy water (Adams Shampoo) to clean the rims. The rims cleaned easily, so not much effort was required.    The wash - Two-bucket method I always use a two bucket method when washing a vehicle. This involves having two buckets, both with grit guards. You take one bucket and fill it with soap and water, this is your wash bucket. The next one you fill with just water, this is your rinse bucket.  While washing the vehicle you would dip your wash pad in the wash bucket and scrub on the grit guard. This will release dirt from the pad and trap it at the bottom of the bucket. Once you use the pad on the vehicle, you dip it in the rinse bucket, scrubbing again. This will make sure most of the contaminants and dirt you picked up will be in a separate bucket. This will reduce the chances of damaging the paint and causing swirls.   You want to wash from top down. Stop at the bottom 1/3 and do this last. Use your second pad for it. The reason for this is the bottom 1/3 is the dirtiest and you really want to prevent cross-contamination as much as possible. Depending on the dirt, you may need to change your water or go rinse your pad multiple times per panel. On a decent car, such as this one, I usually go to the bucket once per panel.   The wash - drying and sheeting To rinse the soap off, I simply hose it down. I like to spray it good to get rid of all the water. After, I take the spray off of the hose and slowly work the hose from side-to-side while moving down the vehicle. This allows the water to sheet off and take a lot of the water with it. Then, you can blot-dry or dry the whole vehicle.   I typically just dry the whole vehicle if it is not clean enough to sheet properly. In order to sheet good, the vehicle needs to have little embedded dirt (claying removes this) and/or a good wax.   To get rid of the rest of the water (we don't want water spots!) I spray crevices with compressed air. Otherwise, you might have water drip down later on a dry spot you are about to work on.    Lastly, I spray a bit of Detail Spray and gently wipe with a Great White Drying Towel. I check the towel frequently to make sure no dirt was missed during the was and ended up on the towel. I fold as needed (due to dirt, or being too wet). One towel is enough for me to dry a whole truck with lots more to give. I never have needed to wring out the towel.   The Wash - clay   Once the vehicle is washed, rinsed, and dried I clay it. Depending on the conditions, I sometimes clay while washing...but that is something for another write-up. Since this car did not have too bad of a contamination on the paint, the clay process was simple and fast.    Working in small sections, I take about 1/3 of a piece of clay and knead it until it is a good size for me. If you drop the clay on the ground, throw it out (this is why we break the clay up instead of using one big chunk). You want to spray a small section with detail spray and gently rub with the clay up-down, side-to-side and I even do circles. I find tough spots that won't come off in one direction, will in another. Some spots can be stubborn and just need more rubbing. I never use a lot of pressure. If you think you need more pressure, try rubbing more first. If that does not work, re-work the clay and rub some more.    Once I am done my section, I clean it up with a microfiber towel. If the car was pretty bad, some people wash the car after . . . but this vehicle did not need it.   Swirl Huntin' - A tale of the flex I use a flex polisher. For this vehicle I used mostly the white pad with fine finishing polisher. You need to try a small spot to test and see what the vehicle needs. You do not want to go aggressive at first, so try the fine polish and if you need more, move up to the Paint Correcting Polish. I used a White Pad with the Finishing Polish, and Orange Pad with the Paint Correcting Polish. You also need to get a feel for what speed to use.    Below is the test spot I had on the hood, marked off with tape. For the hood, I needed to use the full 2 step process (Orange Pad with Paint Correcting Polish, then White pad with Finishing Polish. However, I found the rest of the car only needed the single step (White pad with Finishing Polish). The Mitsubishi has some pretty soft paint, but it seemed the hood was harder.    To start, I prime the pad with a product making an X. Once the product is worked into the pad, you only need a few drops of product or even just a shot of Detail Spray to keep it going. You will also want to use the Pad Cleaning Brush every panel, or even in-between the same panel. Anytime I would see dust build up I would give a quick shot of  Detail Spray and the problem was usually solved. If it was not, I used the cleaning brush over a garbage can on the lowest speed to clean it. You will see a ton of dust release when you do this.   While working the Flex Polisher I move slowly and in a smooth motion. If it is your first time, the polisher likes to run away on you if you do not hold it right. It takes some getting use to. You will also want to mark on your pad with marker a line. This line you should see spinning. If it is not spinning, you are using too much pressure.   After polishing a section, I wipe the residue away with my Double Soft Microfiber.    You can see below the side skirt. It was seriously scratched, probably due to rocks kicking up from the tires.   After a quick polish, the skirt came out looking extremely wet and smooth:   You can see some nice swirls on the trunk here:   And after a quick polish, again, only using the White Pad with Paint Finishing Polish:   I was pretty happy with how the car turned out after polishing it fully. Below you can see one of many scratched 95+% removed:   Post-Polish finishing touches   Once the car was fully polished it was time to do some finishing touches. Firstly, I applied Machine Super Sealant which takes 12+ hours to cure. So once I applied it, I applied Super V.R.T to the tires and headed home to finish up the next day. Below are the tires, remember how dull they looked before?   Post-Polish Sealant and Waxing   Once the Sealant cured, I removed it with a Microfiber. I then took my Americana Wax for added protection and got to work. Using small amounts I gently waxed the vehicle. It cures quick and usually by the time I waxed the next panel, it was time to remove the previous panel. After my wax I applied a layer of Glaze using the same method as the Americana. Lastly, I put another coat of wax to seal in the glaze for that ultimate shine and protection (note: Glaze offers no protection, just the OMG look).   V.R.T is for more than tires   What some people are not aware of is V.R.T can be used on plastics and trim. Here is a 50/50 shot of the front grill with V.R.T applied to it. It looks a LOT better with the V.R.T and it brings the plastic back to life. No more dullness here!
 
Money-Shots
It is the time!! Here is what you have all been waiting for. The end result:
 
Amazing shine, depth, and clarity:

Can you spot the Adams products in the reflection?

 
I love this shot. It looks like the road goes on forever through the car.

 
Look at those clouds in the hood!

 
That's one hot ride

 
No more dull front-end.

 
Chrome-like finish: Achieved!

 
Most of the swirls are gone. I did not get 100% (you almost never can). But, this was a huge difference.

 
You can see my car in this reflection

 
She's all done! Time to pack up and go home:

 
Bonus shot: My Arsenal

 
 
Questions? Comments? Don't be shy, I won't bite!

Looks awesome. Great job

Hey guys. This here is a 2012 Red Lancer, GT model. It has seen roughly 70,000 KM's and was improperly washed via Dish Soap, bad techniques, and Dealer Washes. The swirl marks were pretty bad and the customer wanted the car looking new again. I used a big range of products to achieve great results. You will see the list of products below, followed by a detailed step-by-step guide on what I did. Lastly I will post some money-shots.
 
 
The Products*
 
Flex Polisher - Could not locate on website
2 step polishing system - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-738-adams-basic-7-foam-pad-machine-polishing-kit.aspx
Double Soft MF - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-494-adams-double-soft-microfiber-towel.aspx
2 Bucket kit - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-523-adams-complete-2-bucket-wash-kit.aspx
Glaze and Americana Wax - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-566-adams-premium-shine-kit.aspx
Super V.R.T - Could not locate on website
Machine Super Sealant - Could not locate on website
All Purpose Cleaner (APC) - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx
Wheel Brush - Could not locate on website
Clay and Detail Spray - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1005-new-adams-made-in-the-usa-detailing-clay-combo.aspx
 
*note: to make things simpler, if products I used are available in a bundle, I bundled them
 
The Process
 
Inspection
I always inspect a vehicle before starting. I like to take lots of pictures so there is:
1) Proof of pre existing damage
2) I know what I need to clean and fix
 
The car was not too bad from far as you can see below. However, once you get close you notice all the defects. In the light you can see some serious swirls built up too.
 
The car pre-wash looks decent here:

  Once you get closer, you see the dirt:   At the right angles and light, you can see the damage (swirls):   The wash - Wheels I always start with the wheels. You do not want to wash them with the rest of the car as mixing dirty wheel water is a no-no. Take a look below as this was the water after one tire.   These tires were pretty dull looking:   I sprayed the tires down with water to loosen up the dirt. I then sprayed All Purpose Cleaner on the tires, using the foam setting. I find the foam setting clings to the tires better and you can literally see the dirt lifting up and drip off. Below, you will see what the All Purpose Cleaner is lifting up after agitating with a Wheel Brush   After agitating the wheel I spray the dirt off. I spray it good and aim the spray along the rim where it meets the tire as the dirt and APC can really get stuck in there good. I usually repeat this process until you no longer get dirt lifting up but the cleaner is whitish.   Next I used a Micro Fiber towel with some soapy water (Adams Shampoo) to clean the rims. The rims cleaned easily, so not much effort was required.    The wash - Two-bucket method I always use a two bucket method when washing a vehicle. This involves having two buckets, both with grit guards. You take one bucket and fill it with soap and water, this is your wash bucket. The next one you fill with just water, this is your rinse bucket.  While washing the vehicle you would dip your wash pad in the wash bucket and scrub on the grit guard. This will release dirt from the pad and trap it at the bottom of the bucket. Once you use the pad on the vehicle, you dip it in the rinse bucket, scrubbing again. This will make sure most of the contaminants and dirt you picked up will be in a separate bucket. This will reduce the chances of damaging the paint and causing swirls.   You want to wash from top down. Stop at the bottom 1/3 and do this last. Use your second pad for it. The reason for this is the bottom 1/3 is the dirtiest and you really want to prevent cross-contamination as much as possible. Depending on the dirt, you may need to change your water or go rinse your pad multiple times per panel. On a decent car, such as this one, I usually go to the bucket once per panel.   The wash - drying and sheeting To rinse the soap off, I simply hose it down. I like to spray it good to get rid of all the water. After, I take the spray off of the hose and slowly work the hose from side-to-side while moving down the vehicle. This allows the water to sheet off and take a lot of the water with it. Then, you can blot-dry or dry the whole vehicle.   I typically just dry the whole vehicle if it is not clean enough to sheet properly. In order to sheet good, the vehicle needs to have little embedded dirt (claying removes this) and/or a good wax.   To get rid of the rest of the water (we don't want water spots!) I spray crevices with compressed air. Otherwise, you might have water drip down later on a dry spot you are about to work on.    Lastly, I spray a bit of Detail Spray and gently wipe with a Great White Drying Towel. I check the towel frequently to make sure no dirt was missed during the was and ended up on the towel. I fold as needed (due to dirt, or being too wet). One towel is enough for me to dry a whole truck with lots more to give. I never have needed to wring out the towel.   The Wash - clay   Once the vehicle is washed, rinsed, and dried I clay it. Depending on the conditions, I sometimes clay while washing...but that is something for another write-up. Since this car did not have too bad of a contamination on the paint, the clay process was simple and fast.    Working in small sections, I take about 1/3 of a piece of clay and knead it until it is a good size for me. If you drop the clay on the ground, throw it out (this is why we break the clay up instead of using one big chunk). You want to spray a small section with detail spray and gently rub with the clay up-down, side-to-side and I even do circles. I find tough spots that won't come off in one direction, will in another. Some spots can be stubborn and just need more rubbing. I never use a lot of pressure. If you think you need more pressure, try rubbing more first. If that does not work, re-work the clay and rub some more.    Once I am done my section, I clean it up with a microfiber towel. If the car was pretty bad, some people wash the car after . . . but this vehicle did not need it.   Swirl Huntin' - A tale of the flex I use a flex polisher. For this vehicle I used mostly the white pad with fine finishing polisher. You need to try a small spot to test and see what the vehicle needs. You do not want to go aggressive at first, so try the fine polish and if you need more, move up to the Paint Correcting Polish. I used a White Pad with the Finishing Polish, and Orange Pad with the Paint Correcting Polish. You also need to get a feel for what speed to use.    Below is the test spot I had on the hood, marked off with tape. For the hood, I needed to use the full 2 step process (Orange Pad with Paint Correcting Polish, then White pad with Finishing Polish. However, I found the rest of the car only needed the single step (White pad with Finishing Polish). The Mitsubishi has some pretty soft paint, but it seemed the hood was harder.    To start, I prime the pad with a product making an X. Once the product is worked into the pad, you only need a few drops of product or even just a shot of Detail Spray to keep it going. You will also want to use the Pad Cleaning Brush every panel, or even in-between the same panel. Anytime I would see dust build up I would give a quick shot of  Detail Spray and the problem was usually solved. If it was not, I used the cleaning brush over a garbage can on the lowest speed to clean it. You will see a ton of dust release when you do this.   While working the Flex Polisher I move slowly and in a smooth motion. If it is your first time, the polisher likes to run away on you if you do not hold it right. It takes some getting use to. You will also want to mark on your pad with marker a line. This line you should see spinning. If it is not spinning, you are using too much pressure.   After polishing a section, I wipe the residue away with my Double Soft Microfiber.    You can see below the side skirt. It was seriously scratched, probably due to rocks kicking up from the tires.   After a quick polish, the skirt came out looking extremely wet and smooth:   You can see some nice swirls on the trunk here:   And after a quick polish, again, only using the White Pad with Paint Finishing Polish:   I was pretty happy with how the car turned out after polishing it fully. Below you can see one of many scratched 95+% removed:   Post-Polish finishing touches   Once the car was fully polished it was time to do some finishing touches. Firstly, I applied Machine Super Sealant which takes 12+ hours to cure. So once I applied it, I applied Super V.R.T to the tires and headed home to finish up the next day. Below are the tires, remember how dull they looked before?   Post-Polish Sealant and Waxing   Once the Sealant cured, I removed it with a Microfiber. I then took my Americana Wax for added protection and got to work. Using small amounts I gently waxed the vehicle. It cures quick and usually by the time I waxed the next panel, it was time to remove the previous panel. After my wax I applied a layer of Glaze using the same method as the Americana. Lastly, I put another coat of wax to seal in the glaze for that ultimate shine and protection (note: Glaze offers no protection, just the OMG look).   V.R.T is for more than tires   What some people are not aware of is V.R.T can be used on plastics and trim. Here is a 50/50 shot of the front grill with V.R.T applied to it. It looks a LOT better with the V.R.T and it brings the plastic back to life. No more dullness here!
 
Money-Shots
It is the time!! Here is what you have all been waiting for. The end result:
 
Amazing shine, depth, and clarity:

Can you spot the Adams products in the reflection?

 
I love this shot. It looks like the road goes on forever through the car.

 
Look at those clouds in the hood!

 
That's one hot ride

 
No more dull front-end.

 
Chrome-like finish: Achieved!

 
Most of the swirls are gone. I did not get 100% (you almost never can). But, this was a huge difference.

 
You can see my car in this reflection

 
She's all done! Time to pack up and go home:

 
Bonus shot: My Arsenal

 
 
Questions? Comments? Don't be shy, I won't bite!

Looks good...nice job!

Excellent write-up and very nice results Jerome.
 
Why do you use a MF towel for cleaning the wheels rather than a dedicated wheel brush?  I have always used a brush but I may just try a towel next time.  Your results shows that it does work well.

Ditto