mc2hill

I made this up for my sheet rinse.  I hold the hose connection in my hand a let the 'rinse' hose hang over the car.
 

I made this up for my sheet rinse.  I hold the hose connection in my hand a let the 'rinse' hose hang over the car.
 

Soap, warm water, metal polish and then detail spray on one of my rings heh
 

Roll up folks! Scientists have found water on Mars.
 
We are planning a mission to establish the very first detailing base on the red planet. Detailing experience with Adams Polishes is necessary.
 
Forget your Bugatti Veyron's and Pagani's, now is your chance to work on true multi billion dollar vehicles!
 
The USA led mission uses the best technology and needs the best products that are made in the USA to keep that red dust at bay.
 
Launch scheduled October 21st, 2023. 
 

 
 

Thanks Roger, I was just thinking about signing up for a class on Photoshop to learn some new...
 
 
Oh, wait a minute, that's not the kind of help you were referring too.   
 
 
 
 
 

Nothing but love for you, brother, but you might want to consider seeking professional help.

Did a 'tutorial' detail with a new Adam's customer (so new his products have not arrived yet!) on his new MB E400.  We played with lots of stuff, but ended up doing a Rinseless Wash, using H2O G&G while the panels were wet, drying with a WW towel.  Followed that up with BG, because you can never have too much shine on a black car! 
 

 

 
Oh, and he was ready to place his second order before we were done!

Another black car today.  I have polished this car several times, and it has reaallly soft paint!  Just a Wash & Seal, with a full interior cleaning this time.  
 
I started with the wheels & tires.  I tried DWC, but I was not getting any color change, so I switched to GWC.  As this is a DD, I cleaned the lower panels, rear bumper, and front bupmer with 1/2 strength APC and a long handle wheel brush.  
 
Then sprayed down the door jams with Rinseless wash at wash strength (using a 1/2 gal. pump-up sprayer) and wiped with a Edgeless Utility Towel.  Then used a wet/dry vac to remove all the leaves from the trunk rim and engine compartment.  Sprayed the engine compartment with the Rinseless solution and wiped with a work MF towel, and dressed it with VRT 'milk' (1/2 SVRT & 1/2 water).  
 
Mixed up my strip wash - 1 oz. of Car Wash Shampoo & 3 oz. of APC to 2 gallons of water, and cleaned the car.  I left the soap on the car, but it was warm and humid today, so when the whole car was clean, I reloaded my wash mitt and soaped 1/2 the car, then reloaded and did the other half.  I spray rinsed it down, then did a sheet rinse.  Lots of DS with the GWDT to get it dry.  
 
Next up was LPS applied with my PC and a older 7" pad.
 
Dressed the tires with SRVT, then moved on to the interior.  It was not real bad, but it had lots on living in it, including some transfer on the rear leather seats.  Unfortunately it rained as I was starting the inside, so I had scramble to clean up, move my wife's car to the neighbor's house, and move this car in the garage.  That added quite a bit of time to the job, as I had use a small work light to check my work . 
 
Anyway, the customer was very happy!  (pics before the rain shower!)
 

 

 

Another black car today.  I have polished this car several times, and it has reaallly soft paint!  Just a Wash & Seal, with a full interior cleaning this time.  
 
I started with the wheels & tires.  I tried DWC, but I was not getting any color change, so I switched to GWC.  As this is a DD, I cleaned the lower panels, rear bumper, and front bupmer with 1/2 strength APC and a long handle wheel brush.  
 
Then sprayed down the door jams with Rinseless wash at wash strength (using a 1/2 gal. pump-up sprayer) and wiped with a Edgeless Utility Towel.  Then used a wet/dry vac to remove all the leaves from the trunk rim and engine compartment.  Sprayed the engine compartment with the Rinseless solution and wiped with a work MF towel, and dressed it with VRT 'milk' (1/2 SVRT & 1/2 water).  
 
Mixed up my strip wash - 1 oz. of Car Wash Shampoo & 3 oz. of APC to 2 gallons of water, and cleaned the car.  I left the soap on the car, but it was warm and humid today, so when the whole car was clean, I reloaded my wash mitt and soaped 1/2 the car, then reloaded and did the other half.  I spray rinsed it down, then did a sheet rinse.  Lots of DS with the GWDT to get it dry.  
 
Next up was LPS applied with my PC and a older 7" pad.
 
Dressed the tires with SRVT, then moved on to the interior.  It was not real bad, but it had lots on living in it, including some transfer on the rear leather seats.  Unfortunately it rained as I was starting the inside, so I had scramble to clean up, move my wife's car to the neighbor's house, and move this car in the garage.  That added quite a bit of time to the job, as I had use a small work light to check my work . 
 
Anyway, the customer was very happy!  (pics before the rain shower!)
 

 

 

Just in case any of the youngsters don't know who Robert Matthew Van Winkle is:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rog8ou-ZepE

Yes sir. I'm right there with you. It irritated me for a day or two, however I removed myself from the forum and any associates I had with said group. When they said "I'm sorry but we're not going to be referring anyone to you", I said "That's fine, I'd rather not be referred to anyone that is like minded with yourselves."
 
Moving on

My 4dr family cruiser ..2009 Pontiac G8 GT Sport/Premium only 27k on her.  
 
She only seen Adams products from the day I brought her home on the 4th of July 2009. 
 
My daily Driver is not worth showing..lol! 97 civic ..the wife's old car. 

With the PC and MF pads, you can almost get to 'rotary level' correction without the worry of burning the paint.  Waayyy faster than foam pads for heavy corrections.  

Did a 'tutorial' detail with a new Adam's customer (so new his products have not arrived yet!) on his new MB E400.  We played with lots of stuff, but ended up doing a Rinseless Wash, using H2O G&G while the panels were wet, drying with a WW towel.  Followed that up with BG, because you can never have too much shine on a black car! 
 

 

 
Oh, and he was ready to place his second order before we were done!

Did a 'tutorial' detail with a new Adam's customer (so new his products have not arrived yet!) on his new MB E400.  We played with lots of stuff, but ended up doing a Rinseless Wash, using H2O G&G while the panels were wet, drying with a WW towel.  Followed that up with BG, because you can never have too much shine on a black car! 
 

 

 
Oh, and he was ready to place his second order before we were done!

We have chatted in other threads, but a official WELCOME to Kourtney!

Did a 'tutorial' detail with a new Adam's customer (so new his products have not arrived yet!) on his new MB E400.  We played with lots of stuff, but ended up doing a Rinseless Wash, using H2O G&G while the panels were wet, drying with a WW towel.  Followed that up with BG, because you can never have too much shine on a black car! 
 

 

 
Oh, and he was ready to place his second order before we were done!

You have to be careful doing matte or black finishes on wheels. Do one wheel at a time to make sure the product doesn't sit too long. I would recommend 10-15 seconds at most then do the rest the good old fashion way with a little soap and water otherwise you'll end up with more problems then you want.

Booboo van:
 
1. Van has or had a booboo?
 
2.  Used primarily to carry pick-a-nick baskets on trips to Jellystone Park?
 
3. Other?

I just wanted to drop in and share my positive experience with the staff over at Adam's Polishes. Matt has been helping me with product for the last 6 years and was recently able to connect me with Ashley to become Adam's Polishes newest member of the Affiliate Program here in New York. Very happy with the way they stuck by me in order to come up with the best deal possible! So, with that being said... Matt, Ashley, and to the rest of the staff over at Adam's.... THANK YOU!!!! 
 
- Nick @ Synergy

This is a great thread. Here is my 3 year old washing his hot rod. I refuse to let him use any towels that touch my cars. That's why he got the red rags until I detail it up for him.
 

I asked this same question myself a few pages back, as my routine is very similar and I decided to not lay down a base of LPS.
 
I have no scientific rationale  and didn't get a big discussion in response to the question, but I don't think you're losing out on much. If anything, we might just not have the ability to go longer between G&G applications.

Welcome Craig!
 
There are lots folks on here that have had a TBSS, including the gone, but not forgotten Shine Doc Dylan.  For an example of what your TBS can look like, go to post #9 of this thread (have a towel handy to wipe up the drool!!! ) - 
Which of Adams products gives the wet look shine to black paint? 

We have learned proper lighting is important when chasing swirls. I have been using a pair of 500w halogen lamps on a stand for several years. These work great, and are nice to be around in the winter, but they are brutal in the warmer months. I have seen the LED work lights (pic below) with a similar setup. They are much cooler to work around, but the light is not as bright as the halogens and do not show imperfections as well.

 
I have seen a few different DIY LED light stand builds on other forums, and after seeing Sizzle Chest’s setup I decided to give it a try. Most of the parts are fairly inexpensive, using lightweight photography equipment, but the bulbs are pricey!
 
I started with a stand that included a carrying bag - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DYHRH4?
psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 
This stand has a minimum height of 53”, and a maximum of 100”. It works great for hoods, roofs, and trunks, but just OK for sides. For that reason I am looking at 2 other stands:
 
This one that has a minimum of 33”, max of 80” - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEUA30/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=I2S0K4VP91Z62V&psc=1

 
 
Or this one that is much shorter – Min 17”, max 40”
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-Aluminium-Photography-Portrait/dp/B00X5GCG12/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1433004584&sr=1-5

 
 
The second stand includes a ‘stud’ that is attached to the lower leg to allow a second light head to be attached. The downside is the stud must be removed to collapse the stand. There are clamps available to allow you to mount a light head almost anywhere and if I go with the first stand I would add one of these – http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00355GFMO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=IB3IMSHH6UKOR

 
 
The light ‘head’ is the simple part. It is a double mount bracket, with an on/off switch for each lamp, and a short 9’ cord. This just slides over the top of the stand and is tightened down. There are other fiddly bits on the bracket, but as I am not a photographer, I have no idea what they are for.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZUVX8G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=I1UB3VZ74Z4A4V

 
 
So far so good, less than $30 (light head $10.99 + stand $15.99).
 
Now about the light bulbs: There are lots and lots of different types of LED light bulbs out there but to replicate the sun you need a daylight bulb – somewhere around 5000 kelvin on the color temp scale.
 

 
I was able to find my bulb at Lowe’s, but it seems to be an item they are discontinuing –
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150661-75774-LPAR3814005KLEDG5___?productId=50107550&pl=1&Ntt=led+par38+daylight
 

 
It is a size PAR38, 23W (120W equivalent), 5000K, Daylight, Dimmable floodlight bulb. The only store in my area that carried them was the near my house and I picked up 4. Even on ‘closeout’ they were $25.99 EACH! The upside to these bulbs is they have a life of 25,000 hours, so unless you break them, they should last a long, long time.
 
Speaking of breaking them, this setup is very top heavy. The first time I used it I had the stand set at about 6’, bumped into it, and it fell on to the trunk of the A8 I was polishing! After a few choice words, my stomach dropped when I saw white marks on the paint! The heat fins from the bulb had marked the paint. Luckily it was just paint transfer and was quickly removed with the polisher, with no further damage to the car or the lights. After that I decided to look for a simple fix and found it at a local thrift store:
Discarded ankle weights!
 

 
I paid $3 for one at the thrift store, but they are about $17 new (I bought a pair when I got tired of driving around to the Goodwill’s).  This is one I found (they only had one), and it easily fits over the upright part of the stand, and provides just enough weight to offset the bulbs. I removed 2 of the weight packs, so it is probably at 4 pounds. The plus with these is they wrap around the light stand when it is folded. 

 
 
So now we are up to $80
Stand          $15.99
Light head    10.99
2 LED bulbs  50.00
Weights           3.00
Not too bad and much cheaper than a pair of the LED work lights with a stand.
Here is what you get:

 
 
So how well do they work?
A shot of both lights on full: The halogen mounting bracket puts them farther apart than the LED bracket, but that is not really an issue:

 
LED:


 
Halogen:


 
 
Why are they better then Halogens?
Front of lights

 
vs.

 
Now the temp at the back:

 
vs.

 
Other options:
You could add a boom to put the light over a flat surface (hood, roof, etc.)  
 

 
 
Conclusions:
I really enjoy working with the LED lights. They are more comfortable to work around, and I prefer the whiter light they produce.  I think they show more defects too.
They also draw less power, so no more worry about tripping a fuse when using the lights and the polisher.
 
 
Please feel free to ask questions or suggest improvements. I am not a photographer, nor an electrical engineer, so there are probably better ways to do this!