Ricky Bobby

Ask any small business owner in this country what it takes to remain debt free as a business, you won't find many that are.  Great job Adam on running your company in an amazing and all-too-rare fashion nowadays, I'm sure you sleep better at night because of it.
 
Too many companies grow too fast and outspend their sales, pretty soon that nice and comfortable life you live is turned upside down.  I know that won't happen here but it's just an example, Adam is a SMART head honcho and this company is only moving in a positive direction, you have my loyalty as a customer for years to come.

For what it's worth guys you can spray deep wheel cleaner on the tips as well and agitate a bit with a sponge after sitting for a few mins, it will take a ton of junk off the exhaust tips and be a bit easier than claying.

For Liquid Sealant the Yellow and Americana hex have the same foam on the face of the pad, just different color.  So either of those hexes are good for Sealant/Waxing.
 
Only difference is the black-handled hexes are of a stiffer foam themselves than the Blue foam of the Americana hex (per Mook in an earlier post which I read), so the black-handled hexes might be easier on the hands (I think they were made softer as to be able to be compressed into the Americana container!)
 
I personally use the MF applicators for Glass Sealant/Rain-X application, as well as Leather Conditioner application and occasionally for VRT application on trim.  I used to use them for sealant but I have a Hex grip, a red UFO applicator and the Americana mini applicator as well which makes me all full of applicators lol!

I prefer the Garry Dean method now after using Dylan's method when I first bought Rinseless, its quicker to use more towels and quite a bit safer in my opinion.  If you have about 6-8 plush towels its much faster than using one, and you won't be driving yourself crazy trying to get every speck of dirt off the towel because you use your 8 sides and toss it in the rinse bucket to be cleaned out later.
 
I also pre-soak the panel with Rinseless 1:16 in a spray bottle, wiping it dry like the above video is risky in my opinion, you always want some lubrication on the surface first, even if your towel is saturated.

The reel is called rapid reel by eley corp.   No it hasn't on me .You can get the 4 wheel setup if needed. Well worth the price paid .I got tired of replacing those cheap ones from HD and Wally world.

Ask any small business owner in this country what it takes to remain debt free as a business, you won't find many that are.  Great job Adam on running your company in an amazing and all-too-rare fashion nowadays, I'm sure you sleep better at night because of it.
 
Too many companies grow too fast and outspend their sales, pretty soon that nice and comfortable life you live is turned upside down.  I know that won't happen here but it's just an example, Adam is a SMART head honcho and this company is only moving in a positive direction, you have my loyalty as a customer for years to come.

TBH I start to see less and less of a use for Detail Spray in my regimen.  Rinseless diluted to waterless ratio is great to spritz down grimy areas before a mitt touches it when doing your normal 2 bucket wash.
 
I use Waterless as a cleaner when drying the car for cleaning up the door jambs, I find just spritzing the jambs with Waterless (Rinseless diluted 1:16) and wiping dry helps lift the contaminants off and leaves a slick, cleaned surface.
 
I have also tested Waterless as a spritzing drying agent like Detail Spray is recommended, and to be honest I thought it worked just as good, definitely dried just as well as when I use my (current, on last bottle) V1 Detail Spray as drying agent, no streaks, and I like the lubricity factor in case there is a stray particle on the surface it will get absorbed into the Waterless, then sucked up into my drying towel. 
 
I definitely have used Waterless (which is now Rinseless 1:16 dilution with water) as a clay lube before, actually got the idea from an Adam's seminar from THE MAN himself, back at Detailers Domain in NJ 2 years ago.
 
I also use a 1/2 oz. or so of Rinseless in my wash bucket just to keep the water nice and slick and to aid when washing.
 
I'm sure I'll still buy my refill gallons of Detail Spray, but to be honest the Rinseless/Waterless product really makes 3 or 4 product uses in just one bottle, pretty amazing.

I would use Americana on top of the glaze for a nice depth to the paint. Should look nice!

I've had Goodyear hoses at my hose since I moved in back in 2004.  None of them have failed yet, and I keep all of them but one, outside 365.

Ask any small business owner in this country what it takes to remain debt free as a business, you won't find many that are.  Great job Adam on running your company in an amazing and all-too-rare fashion nowadays, I'm sure you sleep better at night because of it.
 
Too many companies grow too fast and outspend their sales, pretty soon that nice and comfortable life you live is turned upside down.  I know that won't happen here but it's just an example, Adam is a SMART head honcho and this company is only moving in a positive direction, you have my loyalty as a customer for years to come.

Thanks friends, and trust me, the long winter hurt us, but Thank God we are debt free, and have an AMAZING group of people on our Team.  We made it through, and are stronger than ever.  Trust me, these products will be replaced with better options. 
 
You have my word.

I have been using that combo since I recieved the Adam's nozzle. Love it.
 

Just picked up one of these last night in anticipation for my Dramm (the one Adam's used to sell, I ordered from Amazon) brass shut off valve, and my incoming USA made fire hose nozzle, still waiting on a message back from Nick on the ETA of the new version from Adam's, or I might just pick one of the old style LDM nozzles from one of the Adam's distributors, have not decided yet.
 
$28.97, Made in USA by Goodyear and believe it or not available at your local Home Depot (which has been stocking a decent amount of American made products in the past couple years I've noticed, you just have to look)
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Goodyear-Engineered-Products-5-8-in-x-50-ft-Premium-Commercial-Grade-Black-Rubber-Water-Hose-20258074/100676339
 

 
I have a 50 foot gray "commercial duty" hose from Costco which served me ok for 2 years but will be relegated to the shed as a spare, it does like to kink up and isn't as flexible as this Goodyear hose, looking forward to using it as it should be a breeze to roll up in my hose caddy I keep outside.
 
Thought I'd throw up a link in case anyone was in the market for a new hose as spring is here! 

I would do a 50/50 IPA wipedown after polishing to inspect the surface, Waterless wash is good but I'd wipe down with IPA after polishing.
 
I would also spend a hefty amount of time on the decon step, your polishing and sealing abilities are nothing if you have contaminants on the surface.
 
 
Have any of you actually tried to remove Liquid Paint Sealant or Quick Sealant with a strip wash of APC?  You'd be fairly surprised to know that its not as easy as just a couple oz. of APC in the wash bucket, that stuff chemically bonds to the paint lol!  I usually don't strip wash just because my decon and polishing takes care of the "prior layers" so to speak of product, but then again I also don't load the paint up with 2 different waxes, 3 layers of glaze etc.
 
Product buildup shouldn't occur with a bi-yearly application of sealant and a quarterly application of Buttery, Americana. or Patriot as a topper wax.

TBH I start to see less and less of a use for Detail Spray in my regimen.  Rinseless diluted to waterless ratio is great to spritz down grimy areas before a mitt touches it when doing your normal 2 bucket wash.
 
I use Waterless as a cleaner when drying the car for cleaning up the door jambs, I find just spritzing the jambs with Waterless (Rinseless diluted 1:16) and wiping dry helps lift the contaminants off and leaves a slick, cleaned surface.
 
I have also tested Waterless as a spritzing drying agent like Detail Spray is recommended, and to be honest I thought it worked just as good, definitely dried just as well as when I use my (current, on last bottle) V1 Detail Spray as drying agent, no streaks, and I like the lubricity factor in case there is a stray particle on the surface it will get absorbed into the Waterless, then sucked up into my drying towel. 
 
I definitely have used Waterless (which is now Rinseless 1:16 dilution with water) as a clay lube before, actually got the idea from an Adam's seminar from THE MAN himself, back at Detailers Domain in NJ 2 years ago.
 
I also use a 1/2 oz. or so of Rinseless in my wash bucket just to keep the water nice and slick and to aid when washing.
 
I'm sure I'll still buy my refill gallons of Detail Spray, but to be honest the Rinseless/Waterless product really makes 3 or 4 product uses in just one bottle, pretty amazing.

I apply it straight to the seat or surface itself and then work it in.  Just "pour" it right on.  Now, my seats in the pics on page one in the BMW were never truly treated properly (protection or cleaning wise).  I had to have 3 sessions of 3 coats each (just caked on the surface to absorb).  I finally brought the chairs back to 85-90% original luster.  Still working on getting that extra 10%.
 
 
 
 
I agree.  Now that they are closer to where I want them, the seats will be treated every month or two.  New Mexico is HARSH on any interior surface, heat, more radiation as we are over a mile high and massive dirty/dust in the air all the time.
 
Personally I like the satin (sheen) finish the Adam's product provides.  Just ups the "class" of the leather (for my sport seats at least).  If I were to use this (which I will) on my old jeep's tan leather, I may prefer a more matte finish.  Either way, they will be protected as well.
 
Thanks Ricky Bobby (Jason) for the write up and follow up.  Glad everything went smoothly and you were able to do a "complete" trial of the product in your X5.  
 
Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.  

You have to really clean the trim off well with APC first.
 
Take an all purpose MF and literally spray the whole trim with APC like you are spraying the tire, then wipe it off with the MF towel as you "scrub it" off.
 
Give a couple mins to dry and apply a SMALL amount of VRT, work it in with an MF applicator or foam block or similar applicator.  It's not applying leather conditioner or wax here, you're applying just enough to let it get into the pores of the plastic, there should be none left on the surface when done.

With that rinse bucket, would it be ok to add a few ounces of microfiber revitalizer to let the towels pre-soak before the washer?

The Rupes is a good machine, and if it provided better results than the Cyclo, and was made in the USA, we would consider it!  However, we have been achieving equal results with the Cyclo.   I'm Italian, and love Italy!  However, Italy is not where I was born and raised, so whenever possible, I like to support the United States of America.

Gary Dean method is definitely safest way.
 
Pre-soak with 1:16 Waterless so you aren't touching a dry panel, and a ton of towels.  I fill up a rinse bucket half way as well with clean water and when the towel is spent i just put it in the clean water bucket to soak it while I'm finishing, loosens up the grit for easier rinsing out afterwards.
 
Obviously this goes without saying but regardless if you rinse the towels out afterwards or not, machine wash your towels.
 
Borderless blues or a long nap plush towel 600-700 gsm is going to work the best for rinseless washing, for my X5 I use about 8-10 to do my whole car including a wipedown of the wheels.
 
 
I've found the Gary Dean method is quicker, as well as safer than using a 2 bucket method with 1-2 towels being rinsed in a rinse bucket, too much risk.

OK well I used the Leather Conditioner this weekend, thanks mtnbiker326 (Chris) for the sample!  I also am stumped we can't upload pics to the forum from the iPhone?  I usually upload my pics on other forums using Tapatalk, no bother, Chris, if you want some photos of the side by side just shoot me a PM and I'll email some to you.
 
The long and short is, I do like the Leather Conditioner, not sure if I like it more than Lederpledge, but I do like it.  I wouldn't use it on the door panels/dash though (personal opinion), as the satin finish it leaves is not for me on anything but the seats, leather boots, etc.  The black leather in my X5 looks great though, very nice finish.  I cleaned my seats with a Deep Plastic Cleaner first to be sure of a clean application surface, and applied with an MF applicator.  Initially, it felt like it might dry a bit greasy, but I'm pleased to report it is a dry finish! 
 
The smell?  It smells like new leather, I like it!  My wife is not the biggest fan for some reason though, I had her smell it yesterday, she prefers the fresh lavender scent of Lederpledge.
 
A little bit goes a long way as well, mtnbiker326 sent me about 2-3 oz of a sample in a Trial size Wal-Mart bottle, and I did the 5 seats in my X5 twice to be sure of even coverage after deep cleaning, the shift boot and the E-brake boot, as well as the leather pieces on the door panels, and still had about .5 oz left when done!
 
 
When I did one seat with Lederpledge and the other seat with Adam's, the ONLY honest noticeable differences to me are the scents used in the product, and the slight satin finish (a bit deeper black) that the Adam's gives, the Lederpledge is more of a matte finish without shine.  However, both seats dried to a non-greasy feel, and both seats were supple and felt protected to the touch.
 
All in all, Adam's Leather Conditioner works as well or better than any conditioner in the market in my opinion, if you do like a complete matte finished seat and/or can't stand the leather smell, then the Lederpledge would be your choice.
 
Would I buy a bottle of Adam's Conditioner for myself after using the sample!  Absolutely!  However, I'm waiting on the wife's verdict when she rides in my car this week, if she likes the finish and the scent after it has dried, since I use my current leather product on both our vehicles.
 
 
VERDICT:  It all comes down to the scent you like, and whether you want a touch of satin finish, or a matte, no-gloss finish.  A great offering from Adam's, even if you are like me and would prefer to use something like this only on your leather seats/surfaces.  I use the equivalent of a Total Interior Detailer for all my interior plastic surfaces for upkeep and protection.

Gary Dean method is definitely safest way.
 
Pre-soak with 1:16 Waterless so you aren't touching a dry panel, and a ton of towels.  I fill up a rinse bucket half way as well with clean water and when the towel is spent i just put it in the clean water bucket to soak it while I'm finishing, loosens up the grit for easier rinsing out afterwards.
 
Obviously this goes without saying but regardless if you rinse the towels out afterwards or not, machine wash your towels.
 
Borderless blues or a long nap plush towel 600-700 gsm is going to work the best for rinseless washing, for my X5 I use about 8-10 to do my whole car including a wipedown of the wheels.
 
 
I've found the Gary Dean method is quicker, as well as safer than using a 2 bucket method with 1-2 towels being rinsed in a rinse bucket, too much risk.

Gary Dean method is definitely safest way.
 
Pre-soak with 1:16 Waterless so you aren't touching a dry panel, and a ton of towels.  I fill up a rinse bucket half way as well with clean water and when the towel is spent i just put it in the clean water bucket to soak it while I'm finishing, loosens up the grit for easier rinsing out afterwards.
 
Obviously this goes without saying but regardless if you rinse the towels out afterwards or not, machine wash your towels.
 
Borderless blues or a long nap plush towel 600-700 gsm is going to work the best for rinseless washing, for my X5 I use about 8-10 to do my whole car including a wipedown of the wheels.
 
 
I've found the Gary Dean method is quicker, as well as safer than using a 2 bucket method with 1-2 towels being rinsed in a rinse bucket, too much risk.

An Ozone Generator will help fix that smell!  When I used to detail cars, our customer Sly Stallone would smoke cigars with the windows closed, and the A/C on full blast in his S500 MBZ.   I had to use the Ozone Generator every week!  Guy was a bit worried about being seen, so the car had tinted windows, windshield, even sunroof.
 
So, that's the ticket, and besides renting one, there are some cost effective units online, and here are a few links:
 
http://www.amazon.com/New-Comfort-Commercial-Generator-HE-500/dp/B00CF4OMP8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396397354&sr=8-3&keywords=ozone+generator
 
Then there is this guy, maybe a use once and toss type.... http://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-Beach-TrueAir-Room-Eliminator/dp/B002SHCEVG/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1396397480&sr=8-25&keywords=ozone+generator

I think the Professional wash pads at the price point you guys sell them at are
 
A)  A great value (both sizes can be had for 20 bucks as opposed to 1 merino wool mitt for $30, plus I'd still need a second wash media for the lower half of the car)
 
  Low enough price point to buy a "fresh set" once a year, or to have extras to rotate.
 
If its not broke don't fix it and if the wash pads do a good job and still sell well I'd just stick to them going forward.