noquarter

Looks great!! 

On a side not your car looks amazing!

i hear you on that one. 
i wanna "move in" to mine. HHA
V

Thanks everyone.  Its my baby.  Planned on being buried in it someday lol

Nothing close up yet but here are some wider shots
 
 

 

Can report back that this worked perfect.
 
Taped off an area larger than the spot and took a finishing polish with a white pad to it.   Reapplied the coating after cleaning and it worked flawlessly.

Recommendation was to do a very light correction in that area.  Then re-prep and coat it.   
 
I will tape of the area and do a small 3x3 section with light correction

Nothing close up yet but here are some wider shots
 
 

 

Can report back that this worked perfect.
 
Taped off an area larger than the spot and took a finishing polish with a white pad to it.   Reapplied the coating after cleaning and it worked flawlessly.

Recommendation was to do a very light correction in that area.  Then re-prep and coat it.   
 
I will tape of the area and do a small 3x3 section with light correction

If you don't get a solid answer from and Adam's rep, then call them

Same here

Master blaster is amazing. Just make sure you have enough juice to power that beast. When I have both switches on I always blow a fuse.

Yes it is.

Thanks man!

Dustin is correct. 
 
Smooth, glossy plastic like piano black door pillars or that Challenger rear valance = Ceramic Paint Coating
Textured plastic like wiper cowls, some side mirrors, Jeep fender flares, etc = Ceramic Trim Coating

The way I understood it, is if it's rubber or textured plastic, use trim coating.
 
If it's smooth, use paint coating.

Got it. Thanks for letting me know.

No, you cannot use Paint Coating on textured plastic trim.
 
The Ceramic Trim Coating is specifically designed to be applied to textured plastic trim.  This material is semi-porous, so it actually soaks up some of the coating product.

The stickiness is the coating curing. Once it's cured and boosted, it won't get sticky. What may happen is it'll start to feel a little less slick as the boost wears off. The hydrophobic properties will remain, but occasionally applying boost will keep the shine on the faces. I wouldn't worry about reapplying boost to the barrels after initial application unless the wheels are off some other reason.

Yes, the clay could remove the sealant.  

After the wash do the 'baggie' test, that will let you if it needs claying again.  
 
Place your hand in thin plastic bag and feel the surface - smooth?  move to the next step - rough?  get busy with the clay!

If you want to clay it again, go for it.  Its all about how much time you have.  If you have time to clay and it makes you feel better, than clay, apply a coat of sealant, wait for it to haze and then top with Americana just like you did 6 weeks ago.

I'm a total rookie at this detailing stuff so take my advice for what it's worth.  My opinion is that this is the perfect opportunity to use the HG&G.  You should get another 2-3 months protection out of the Americana alone so the HG&G would be a nice way to revive the shine and add a little protection.
 
The other question I would have (being a rook) is whether it's even possible to remove the Americana without also taking some or all of the LPS too.
 
All that being said, if you just need some 'detail therapy' then I recommend you put on your favorite music, pop open a cool beverage and go to town with whatever product you want.  It's Friday, after all.

I'm a hand polisher for the most part, but I do use a polisher on occasion.  The only wax I use with the polisher is the Buttery Wax.  You could apply the Americana by hand and buff it with the polisher though.