Brews02ws6

I would recommend Waterless Wash and a Lug Nut brush around emblems

Start with the least aggressive method and work your way up. If its just dirt, a simple car wash should take care of it. I try not to use my wool mitt on my ws6 emblem because it always seems to want to get stuck. Try maybe a waffle weave towel and carefully scrub around it. Maybe some diluted all purpose cleaner might help. Kinda hard to say without knowing what it is. 

As Dan had stated earlier plastic toothpick, and I've also seen the tip that if you worry about scratching, use a small and thin microfiber around the toothpick to avoid any scratches

I did a 30th Anniversary white TA a few years ago. The paint is very hard and took a long time to correct properly. Be patient, and keep at it, it'll be worth it in the end.

I would highlight on make sure you are finishing with the correcting polish or finishing polish because the compound is for cutting, not finishing. Remember 3-5 pounds pressure in a cross hatch pattern.  
Try looking at the car with the light at a 45* angle.

You're using a cross hatch pattern, right? Back, forth, side to side.
 
Glad you're getting good results. Post some pictures when you're done!

from the heavy correcting compound did you finish it off with a finishing polish and white foam pad? Usually the microfiber pad and heavy correcting compound is not going to leave a perfect finish, its only going to grind down to even out the already heavy scratches you have. After the heavy scratches seem to disappear, then you need to give it a pass with the regular orange correcting compound and orange foam pad. This will again start minimizing your scratches. The final pass would be the finishing polish and a white foam pad. This should then give you near perfect results, if not perfect. 

No - it would NOT be silly to use H2O as a base layer and then put Americana on top of it. It probably won't last as long as Paint Sealant but there are so many variables that effect longevity it's hard to give an estimate.
 
I would NOT top Americana with Buttery. Americana is a very high quality wax that will give you an incredible shine. Buttery will not improve it. If you want to put Buttery down after a month or two it would be fine but if you have Americana - use Americana.
 
Detail Spray is perfect for wipe downs and will only boost the wax.

Put the Dawn back in the kitchen. 
 
Waterless is great stuff...but I'm unsure it fits into this task.
 
I think you're basically on track by not rushing in with agitation. Rinse well, foam, rinse, foam, a bit heavy with the amount of Adams Shampoo in the soap AND rinse bucket. (Yep, Shampoo in the rinse bucket!) Mix up some shampoo 16:1 in a spray bottle and keep the vehicle surface and wash media well lubed with it.  
 
Additional Note:
 
If you don't want shampoo in the rinse bucket and prefer plain water, just give the wash media an extra squirt of shampoo-water mix after it comes out of the soap buck. ANYTHING you do to rid the wash media of the abrasive dust and lubricate it is good.

I would spend a few good minutes spraying down the car first, then I would foam it down really well, using car shmaooo with some all purpose cleaner, then go after it with the wash pad using the 2 bucket method, I would fill up the soap bucket like normal and then add 2 oz of all purpose cleaner. Once done washing rinse well and rewash if you want, then dry and start polishing!
 
200th post! Woot woot!

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/31065-waterless-wash-has-changed-its-color/page-1

Actually it saves time deconning first, follwed by foaming with a foam gun, followed up with a wash mitt and then a rinse. There's a write up on another forum. I've done it a few times and it's worth it.

^Agreed with Guz, I think I saw the writeup you refer to and one of the conclusions from testing was that the dirt on the surface does not impede the paint decon process and it still allows the chemical to do its job dissolving iron and fallout.  I have since switched to this and it works wonderful, decon first, foaming up after the dwell time to neutralize, rinse and foam again or just go right into your wash mitt/pad and clean and dry as usual.  Add a quick claying while its still wet after you rinse down, and then dry as normal. 

Here is the video Dylan made when I asked the question about this:
 
http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/28466-ask-the-shine-doc-ep-2-removing-rail-dust-with-deep-wheel-cleaner/
 
Episode two of ask the Shine Doc in the detailing library thread.