1911A1

U.S. Army, Retired after 22 years.

First off, hello all - new here but have lurked for some time trying to learn how to best take care of my vehicle. Thought I would share some of my experience/knowledge in an area that I'm quite experienced.  Please do not take my comments as challenges to what others have shared - that's not the intent, as there are all kinds of things that can cause wheels to look bad and not all are the same thing.
 
Like b_pappy, I was also a wheel designer for an OEM supplier (different company) and prior to that I worked in that company's test lab.  Like he says, the coatings are tested but it's only for like 1000 or 2000 hours with the tests that simulate corrosion. There are other outdoor tests that take much longer, but that is more for testing the UV damage and fading of color and/or clear.
 
True bubbles in or on clearcoat will be colorless or appear slightly darker - it's just a defect of the coating process that wasn't caught by visual inspection. Normally, these defects are attempted to be found by the manufacturer by way of visual inspection, segregation and then if deemed repairable, finessed out of the clear by light wet sanding and/or buffing (similar to body paint correction but in a smaller area).
 
I'm sure one of the issues others have brought up is filiform corrosion, which grows on the aluminum and under the clear. It will often be gray-ish green or yellow and look like a moldy or bubbling patch or even like it's "worming" on the aluminum surface.  It can appear under painted areas, but it's most commonly found on areas that are only cleared over bare aluminum (machined or polished).  If you're familiar with Airstream trailers/campers, they are notorious for having filiform issues as well.
 
A Google image search for "filiform corrosion on aluminum" will give plenty of examples on both wheels and the Airstreams.  If you happen to see the X scribe, that's how the wheels are tested - they're scribed down through the clear layer and into the aluminum, exposed to a corrosive and then heat & humidity.  Techs note the growth rates and the customers will pass or fail the test pieces.
 
Areas where filiform most often starts or appears will vary but it most often appears first where the clearcoat has lost its seal or areas where there was thin coating coverage.  The causes of this corrosion can be attributed to the breaks in the clearcoat combined with corrosives and/or humidity. The clearcoat breaks can occur starting with the manufacturing of the wheel (burrs, sharp edges, metallic components that are assembled together and rub like screws or bolts) or the breaks can happen through normal wear and tear (rocks or debris forcefully contacting wheels, clumsy techs dropping tools, tire installation/removal machines, pry off center caps or traditional clip-on wheel weights).  As most have already figured out, the corrosives are what we throw on the roads or are already in our environment and then the moisture and corrosives are exposed to heat and humidity which tends to grow this type of corrosion between clearcoat and aluminum.  Where you are located in the US does impact the length of time it takes for this type of corrosion to appear, but more often than not, it will eventually appear no matter where you live.
 
Once it starts, it's not going to stop. There aren't any proven methods out there for filiform correction, as filiform can pit the aluminum and damage it. About the only way to correct it is to have the wheels remachined and recoated - but even then, it's going to return at some point through normal use.  It might be slowed by way of washing, waxing, babying but that I am aware, there hasn't been any sure fire prevention or cure for this type of corrosion yet.
 
Anyway, I hope this sheds some light on a couple of wheel related issues for a few people.

So I finally got home yesterday!

Spent yesterday at the Glenn helping out as crew for my brother.He races a 66 Triumph Spitfire in the vintage class.Got a few pictures of some cool cars.

A lot does suck out here like water restrictions, taxes, etc but man when you can go to the beach year round and never have to use more than a light sweater, who cares?

I know what you mean,I lived in Carlsbad for a few years.Love the San Diego area.

Thanks to my good friend Adam for the great time I had today visiting Adam's HQ!  
 
After taking delivery of a topper for my "other" vehicle (2013 Toyota Tacoma) in Denver this morning, I continued northwest for a visit to Adam's HQ.  Adam's Team member Ryan greeted me on arrival and took good care of me, helping me with great deals on several products I needed.
 
It had been a while since I visited the "mothership," so Adam indulged me with a tour of ongoing bottling operations while mentioning some plans has for future expansion.  I look forward to more frequent visits when they come to fruition...
 
Got a chance to observe and try several upcoming products (chemicals and tools) Adam is developing - some GREAT stuff on the horizon! Enjoyed lunch with Adam in Louisville, while talking about a host of topics that spanned cars, business, family, and even a little politics. Got back from lunch in time to meet some other loyal Adam's customers.  Left with some new products (in non-descript packages) to try.
 
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Adam... THANK YOU! You've earned my trust and my business. I recommend Adam’s Polishes to anyone in the market for car detailing products and advice. I look forward to the next time we get together, my friend!

Spent yesterday at the Glenn helping out as crew for my brother.He races a 66 Triumph Spitfire in the vintage class.Got a few pictures of some cool cars.

Cool. Some nice cars, that's for sure!

Welcome to the forums and welcome to the black truck club!

Welcome to the forums Kade!

Don't feel bad,I drove over and crushed my hose slides because I was in a hurry.

And the finished product yea. Long overdo
 

Welcome Keith!

Paid off my mortgage

Winter is coming and detailing season is coming to a close.  Was up at 0330 and out the door at 0400 to make my every third year trip to pick up a load of pellets.  Picked up 3 tons, which should last me 3 winters.  Was home at 1215 and 390 miles.  
 
Got them all put into the basement too.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

I kinda wish we had clear answers to questions when it comes to this product. How often to use in comparison to regular shampoo, on average how much time of protection is expected from a single application, does it replace guard gloss as it seems like similar product, etc? I see these questions all the time on the forum but it would be great to get some answers from the Adams team.

You won't hurt anything.Keep the pad flat with about 5 lb of pressure the pad should rotate slowly.Take 15 to 20 seconds to move 2 ft.
Others with more experience might have better advice but this works for me with my porter cable,I think the griots is very similar. check out the videos on polishing with the porter cable they  might help.The microfiber pad does take more product than the foam pad,try the foam first though moving slower.Good luck 

Paid off my mortgage

Welcome to the forums Trent!

Welcome Ryan!

well they say, "You cant polish a Turd". Im trying to prove them wrong. I will try to add a detail write up when I get this finished over the next week or so.

WOW!!  
 
Thank you everyone for the wonderful ideas and assistance!  What a helpful community that I am now part of!
Thank you! Thank you!

Laura 

Welcome Laura!
You came to the right place.Another vote for goo-gone(test an inconspicuous area first if possible though)