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moons21

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Posts posted by moons21

  1. 5 minutes ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

    Hey Greg. Have you considered the Ceramic Spray Coating? While it's not as robust protection and doestn't last as long as the paint or trim coatings, it's versatile in that it can be used on pretty much any exterior surface.

     

    Not going to go the route of the spray coating for the exact reason you mention.. not as "robust".  IMO.. a full coating will help better with things like boot scuffs getting on and off the bike and since bikes don't see a lot of rain, or shouldn't, I was going for the longevity of a full coating and ease of getting bugs off it down the road.  But thanks for the input, I just save the spray coating for people on a "tighter" budget in money or time.  :)

  2. Hey Guys,

     

    My neighbor has asked me to spruce up his GSXR600 with a ceramic coat.  Now being a sport bike, it has lots of plastic fairings, so I"m thinking the Ceramic Trim coating vs. the paint coating, but not sure if I should put it on the decals or not.  Anyone coat a sport bike with factory decals on it before?  Pros/cons?

     

    Thanks

    Greg

  3. 9 hours ago, Rich said:

    We've been having snow, then ice, today 8", and now it's freezing rain.  Can't even get a decent day to wash anything.  I was car shopping over the weekend and was considering a black XTS.  Till I saw another black car pull in the lot looking like crap.  Black is just too much work. I'm going to keep looking. 

    Black is not a color.. its a commitment.. especially in winter

     

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  4. As I read this post, and see all the points from the different users, I thought to myself about the differences in the LSP's between coatings and sealants.  One thing that popped into my head was the application costs of different products.  What I'm referring to is the cost of consumables to apply these.  For the average home user, do you really want to spend a lot of money on towels using the CSC to simply do your windows and trim probably monthly vs. the re-usable applicators that you use for the glass sealant or VRT blocks etc.   Sometimes I feel that the cost of the application might come into play for the different products and that could be another reason to not remove some of the other sealants available.

  5. 14 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

     To protect the fabric when it’s all done, we use either GTechniq Leather Guard AB or Cquartz fabric. 303 and RaggTop both also make great products for convertible tops. I usually don’t openly recommend products in the open forum other than Adams but since they don’t make a product for this application yet, it should be allowed. 

     

    The fabric protection really should be reapplied approximately every six months to maintain it. 

     

    Thanks Shane, I use one of those other products on my soft top, so glad I'm on the same page as you guys.. It's inspirational to see you and your teams work and the input you provide here.  Keep up the good work and Thanks!

  6. Hi.. and Welcome.  I have used the One Step on some peoples cars that didn't care or want me to spend the time/money on a two/three step correction seal.  It works pretty good.  On a white car, I used the white pad to give it just a bit more pop and a seal (note that PS gives longer protection) and on another I used an orange pad to get more correcting out of it.  Make sure your surface is clean as others have mentioned, Iron Remover and clay as needed before working.  Put on some tunes and have some fun.  :)

     

    For the glass, not sure if anyone really has a good glass polish as glass is pretty hard to start with.  I usually clay then use the GS on them and boost throughout the winter to help keep it working.

  7. I have the Hydroshot, the quick connect on the end of mine looks like it is "Keyed" not totally round, so without owning a foam cannon, I'm not sure it will fit.  Also, it is only rated at 300psi i think, so might not be strong enough.  I bought a second battery for mine as one battery can barely make two passes of my Avalanche, 2x5gal buckets.

     

    My winter wash with it consists of:

     

    Creating a mixture of soapy water in a spray bottle and after getting it first wet and knocking off the heavy salt in winter, spray it down with the soapy water, let dwell then rinse with multiple buckets of water.  Depending if the weather looks good in the future or if we are going somewhere special, I'll do a rinseless in the garage and HGG top off  of the sealant.

     

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  8. For the Tire Shine, you are somewhat correct in not using it on a bike.  I do use it on my bike, taking super extra care to NOT get any on the tread at all.  The sidewalls of the tire are ok to use products on but any portion of the tire that might or does come into contact with the road is a major no no.   I will spray some TS onto a foam block and very carefully apply to the sidewall only on my bike.  

  9. Quick questions...

    • did you coat over the stripes or around them?
    • have you ever thought to use ceramic trim coating on the wheel wells?
      • curious about longevity in that harsh area being blasted with road debris all the time.. if its worth doing vs. undercarriage spray
  10. 1 hour ago, MikeSoFlo said:

    Adam mentions in his Glass Cleaner video that the alcohol and ammonia in washer fluid will greatly decrease the life of a product like Glass Sealant.  

    So then what to use as washer fluid? Has anyone tried a dilution of Adam's Glass Cleaner and turned that into washer fluid? If not, I'd be willing to try it but not sure what the dilution ratio should be, any suggestions?

     

    Us folks up north of the 49th can't really think of doing that.. aka.. the tundra up here gets pretty cold and freeze comes to mind...

     

    I personally try to make sure to put a fresh coat on before the temps stay consistently below freezing, then on a "warm" day, maybe re-apply a cheap competitors product to get thru the winter.  Come spring, total decontaminate the windshield and get the good stuff back on.

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