BlackCadi14

It should be on a speed just fast enough to keep the pad rotating. I use the swirl killer mini to apply it. Even though its only a 4" pad, since your're applying by machine it goes very quickly and keeps the heat down. I had it on speed 3 and the pad spun just fine and was a breeze to wipe off. 
 
Keep heat low, lay it down thin and work out of direct sunlight if possible. 

Speed four is polishing speed on the Rupes machines we use. Similar to the Adams ones. I can’t think of a time when you’d want to go that fast for a sealant. 
 
Sealants generally don’t play well with heat. They also don’t need to be “worked in.” Once the paint is bare after polishing, it will bond to the surface and you’re wiping off the excess product. Thin to win is key here. We lay sealant and glaze at speed one, maybe two. But that’s rare. Waxes are put down by hand...always. Just our way of doing things. 

Still looks like a job well done Jeremy! Just take a little practice to get use to the way everything works together! 

A few things come to mind. 
 
First...for glazes and sealants, you apply by machine as slow as possible. Basically just enough to keep the pad moving. 
 
Second...we don’t do a wash or wipe after polishing. The selant/glaze/wax have plenty of solvents in them to aid in the removal. Coatings are a different creature. 
 
Third...it’s a black car. It doesn’t take a high ambient temperature to heat up the panels and make removal difficult. We will wash outside, but product is commonly applied indoors so there’s no direct heat. 
 
Paint sealant should come off easily. Heat is the biggest culprit. Either heat built up during application, or on the vehicle. That heat and leftover residue can cause the haze you describe. 
 
My last thought is that the area didn’t get polished out enough. Incomplete polishing can leave a haze. Particularly if you use compounds which I don’t think you did. Black can still be notoriously difficult. We don’t do black without two steps of polishing. It’s just the way it is. 
 
Buttery wax has a notoriously short lifespan, so be ready for frequent application. 

How did you apply the paint sealant? From what you wrote it appears you use a swirl killer with a grey pad, correct? 
 
I just applied paint sealant to a big truck yesterday and it wiped off like butter. Granted it is non Adam's brand, but I own and have used Adam's paint sealant before and the wipe off is extremely similar. If you apply it nice and thin the wipe off couldn't be more simple/easy. 

Thank you guys, I did the first job in my garage Saturday night but the door was open so...  
 
Sunday I worked out side where I had room, the sun was behind my house and not directly on my car.  I was in the shade until it got dark on me.  I am working on cleaning my garage out where I could have more room but doubt I will have all the room I need.  future goals, bigger Man Cave!!  
 
The PS seemed very stubborn to get off with the rag as well.  I thought it should be a simple wipe off, not rubb the paint off I feel like
 
I applied Buttery Wax last night to car, gave up on the PS at the moment.  
 
I'm learning, i will get it, just need a little help as I get there.  

I've been using Adams Paint Sealant for years and it always leaves a haze.  The current Paint Sealant is much better than the last version at least.  I always follow up with brilliant glaze to remove it.  And if there's a few really stubborn ones, they usually come off with the first wash.
 
Also, I would recommend coating prep between polishing and sealing.  And last, I don't bother drying the car before claying but I work in a garage.

Ryan has you covered. From your outline, looks like you didn't remove all the polish residue before you applied the wax (paint sealant?). Unfortunately, another strip wash may be in order to remove everything, then reapply the LSP (Last Step Product).
 
Next time you polish, I recommend you use either a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol mix or Coating Prep and some Waterless Wash towels to remove the polish oils/residue. 
 
And keep in mind since the car is black, a little more "love" is needed to get it just right! It does look good...you're well on your way! And thanks for the warning on the reflection ?.

Not everyone here does it, but I am a fan of washing after polishing to get any polish residue off the surface. The residue could be the source of the haze, not that I see it in the pics, looks pretty good. Also if you are going to clay drying after washing isn't necessary.

After applying PS if you still see haze try Brilliant Glaze. That should remove the haze left behind from Paint Sealant . This happened to me when I did it the first time. Hope it works for you.

DS has carnuba and so adds another layer vs removing anything. The FP may remove some, but it's not all that strong and may still leave sealant behind. I still recommend you strip wash it completely, then reapply the PS. Are you applying indoors or out?

Great answers and that article was awesome. I'm moving onto a GM dealership (YAY!) and making a list of extras... all 100% Adam's Products.
Thrilled!
 
V

Like mentioned Yellow or Red, It's best applying by hand.

I have done it with a grey pad....not worth the efforts really, goes on so smooth and fast by hand that youll waste more time pulling all the equipment out and cleaning it up. 

I use the yellow hex for it.  Check out the video.  https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-buttery-wax.html

It goes on super easy by hand, but if you want to apply by machine use the black or red pads.

The Yellow hex grip works great for hand application of Buttery wax. I have heard some on here using a machine, but I have never found it necessary. The newest formulations layout smooth and will come off easy even from pretty hot panels.

As you pointed out above, most things are color-coded to help keep it simple, so if you apply by hand, the Yellow applicator was designed for Buttery Wax. 

Paint Sealant will last up to 6 months (depending on a lot of factors).  Buttery Wax will last a couple of months.  Recommended layering is to put the Sealant down first and the Wax over top.  That way you get the protection and longevity of the sealant as well as the deep look of the wax.
 
 

The paint sealant will last longer and would go down first if layering. Topping with Buttery could be considered overkill, but I have done it and it works great.

I think your process is sound, although I don't rinse and re-foam on my vehicles, old paint needs corrected this summer, maybe after they are done.
 
I start with my towels dry, though they do push the water more until they have begin to get damp.

You'll want to pre-rinse a dirty car to help blast away as much crud / salt / mud / pollen / grime as possible.  It's a simple step to help reduce the possibility of introducing scratches during the wash process.  The foam will encapsulate and emulsify road grime and surface dirt either way, wet or dry. I always pre-rinse, foam, rinse, and then either foam again and hand wash, or just hand wash depending on how dirty the car was to begin with. 

Go with the 15mm. I have the 15mm and 12mm and on my vehicles the 15mm is large enough to correct the paint quickly. As you go to an even larger diameter it makes it tougher to get in tight spots. The 12mm is really nice for the tighter spots.

Very Nice Write up.  that helps out a lot.

@shane@detailedreflections wrote an awesome article that should answer most, it not all, your questions about which polisher would be best for you.