BRZN

For sure my streaks were from Part B, not A. A and B were applied in opposite directions so it was obvious it was B. I was told the 67% humidity may have been my issue, that may have been too high for application.

I took care of an 81 Mercedes 380SL last fall. The paint was thin single stage paint. The owner had marks on it he though he'd created by letting water dry on it too fast after washing, I'm not sure water could have etched as much as it had, but he said he'd never noticed them before. Best I could get with out going through the red: Wet sanding would have removed the color, color was very thin on the tops of the front fenders to where I could see the primer starting to show through. I was able to bring the gloss back by removing the oxidation, but not fully correct. A re-spray would be required, but why on the 37 year old original paint. Your pictures look very similar. Most of the car was done with foam pads using PCP followed up with PFP. I was able to get the car to an awesome looking 10 footer, but that was it

I applied the Ceramic Glass Coating last Tuesday morning and had the same issues. 70* out, completely overcast with absolutely no sun hitting the glass, paint and glass were cool to the touch, and humidity at 67%. When finished, it looked like I'd applied Glass Sealant and let it on too long before buffing off the residue; grayish/brown streaks everywhere. Here's a few things I've discovered: Part A is the actual Ceramic. I noticed it rainbowing as I applied it. Part B is some sort of Glass Sealant. Part B is needed to keep the wiper blades from chattering across the Ceramic. The grayish/brown streaks are from Part B. I'd applied Parts A and and B in different directions on the windshield and it was obvious the issue was with Part B. Don't use the Green Scrubby Glass Towel included in the Kit to remove Part B, use an Edgeless Utility Towel. The Edgeless Utility Towel has more bite and can more easily remove the Part B residue. I had to drive my car shortly after application and couldn't do much to try and remove what was left on the glass. From inside the car I couldn't see the streaks, and that included driving at night on a two lane road in a small town with oncoming traffic and street lights. The morning after I'd applied the Ceramic Glass Coating I had a bit of time to work on the mess. Aerosol Glass Cleaner with a Green Scrubby Glass Towel (that's all I had at the time) took a bit of it off. I then tried rubbing with a dry Microsilk Glass Towel I keep in the car, and that was taking off the residue. Quite a bit of pressure was needed with the Microsilk Towel, but it worked. Before I would have tried Brilliant Glaze I was going to try an application of Adam's Glass Sealant that comes in the little 4 ounce bottle. My thought was that the Glass Sealant on the Part B Glass Sealant residue may release what was on the glass as streaks. I'd used Brilliant Glaze to remove a high spot I'd left when Ceramic Coating a 2013 Chevy Malibu a couple years ago. It was quite obvious after a couple rains and washes the area where the Brilliant Glaze had been worked no longer had any Ceramic Coating left on the Atlantis Blue paint. For what it's worth, I had applied the 9H Ceramic Wheel Coating to the paint, this was before the release of the 9H Ceramic Paint Coating. I really didn't want to take the chance of removing the Ceramic Glass Coating.

Hand painted/applied pin stripes, that are on top of the clear coat? Tape them off with Detailing Specific (very light bond) Tape. Google to find some. Hand Painted Pin Stripes are easy to remove with mechanical action, i.e. machine polishing. The paint layer the pin stripes are applied to isn't generally prepped the same as if there was a panel re-spray being done. The base layer isn't scuffed, so the pin stripe doesn't have a very strong bond to the base.

15mm Swirl Killer, Blue Foam Pad, Metal Polish #1 Before After Before After

Juan, Adam's Paint Coating will last well past 12 months if applied and maintained properly. It's been on my wife's car for 2 1/2 years now I believe. I just had the car out for some PDR work. The guy had trouble getting his glue to hold his suction cup to a larger crease he was trying to pull. He had to polish the area clean to get it to stick. It was due to the Ceramic Coating, the car sits outside 24/7/365. I agree with Rich above. The product is too new for most of us to have comparisons to other brands.

Can you catch an edge of it with your finger nail? If so, it'll need wet sanded and then perhaps resprayed. All depends on if it's a deep scuff, or a lifted chip. If you can't catch it with a finger nail, machine polishing may remove it, or minimize it to the point it's livable for you. When we drive our pride and joy's damage happens. I'll be getting my GTO's entire front clip Clear Bra'd this spring after a defect on the hood happened last summer; resprayed in the fall, and thoroughly machine polished throughout this winter. But, with the limited funds you mention you may not have that option.

Check these out:

I picked this car up, Friday afternoon, two weeks ago. Perfect time to work on it, as my garage is currently empty. I knew this was going to be a long job. It's a 37 year old, rust free, Mercedes that spent the first 20 years of its life in the south; North Carolina, then into Florida before residing in Pennsylvania becoming a weekend fun car. The car is all original, single stage, paint except for the center section of the driver's side door, between the pin stripes and door belt line trim, that's base coat/clear coat. She's a decent 20 footer The main reason I got my hands on her was that the owner's husband had let something he was washing the car with dry on the paint, in the direct sun. Most of the damage was to the flat surfaces, but some was down the sides too, especially under the belt line trim. These marks ended up being more than water spots, whatever had dried on the paint had actually removed pigment. It left the obvious spots, but also left a haze on the surface. Some of the haze was oxidation of the single stage red paint, and some was from the cleaner. Here's a before and after of some of the paint damage: Before After Got started Saturday morning Rinsed, foamed, washed, and clayed. Clay mitt to the entire car, then back over the glass and flat surfaces with Visco Clay. Rinsed again and dried with my Master Blaster Revolution. No change to the paint damage A thorough inspection showed paint missing on most sharp edges and thin spots on the tops of the front fenders, the top of the passenger's side door, and a spot on the hood I left the engine bay alone on this one, other than cleaning up the radiator core support and cowl. 21 hours were spent just polishing. I cut in most panels with my Rupes iBrid Longneck Nano after taping off the edges of the surrounding panels (I went through 2 full rolls, 55'/roll, of low tack Detailing Tape). After cutting in with the Nano I'd move to the Swirl Killer Mini, and follow that with the 15mm Swirl Killer on the larger panels. Most areas were worked with Paint Correction Polish on an Orange Pad, and then followed up with Paint Finishing Polish on a White Foam Pad. The Trunk lid seemed to have the most paint, and was in the worst shape. There I started with a Blue Foam Pad using Heavy Correction Compound before moving on to the PCP. The scratches seen in the video were deep. It appeared the car had been parked for some time with the sun baking the passenger side of the trunk lid. The driver's side of the deck lid corrected pretty well, and didn't have the same amount of damage. I got most of the spots out of the paint: The above pic was taken from the same location as the other two above showing the spotting. Once done with the hood I realized there was no possibility of perfection, I was going for a decent 5 footer. The single stage paint didn't take long to clog up pads. I went through three sets They cleaned up well with Eco All Purpose Cleaner for a while, but eventually were too full of pigment to use again. The interior was fully detailed too Black Trim Restore was applied to the faded pieces of trim before all the trim was covered with Ceramic Trim Coating. All chrome and stainless trim was worked with Adam's Metal Polishes #'s 1 & 2 and topped with Brilliant Glaze. The paint received Liquid Paint Sealant, wiped down with Detail Spray and then a coat of Patriot 24 hours later. I believe I accomplished the car as a decent 5 footer. Follow me on Instagram to see more pics of the progress @ brzndave.

Those should help!

Not the best pics in the world, but I believe I can see the difference: 102,000 2012 Camaro door sills were beat on this Ashen Grey Metallic! Mostly from folks getting into and out of the back seats. 12mm LT Mini and my Rupes ibird nano took care of all but the very deepest scratches. Heavy Correcting Compound and a Blue Microfiber Pad finish down to this level. I just purchased a set of Brushed Aluminum and Black Gen5 Camaro Door Sill Plates off Amazon to help protect them from this point forward.

Eric, you state you have the telescopic Pole. Do you have Adam's Truck Brush Head? It's made of the same super soft material as Adam's Wheel Brush. It's perfect for the areas you can't easily reach, like the roof of your truck. We've used the Truck Brush to clean the entire exterior of our Ford F550 we leave at the Carlisle Fairground with no marring, scratches or swirls anywhere. I used it just a few weeks ago to wash the complete exterior of our 20' enclosed locker trailer that again sits on the Fairgrounds without leaving a mark. You'll still want to use it in the Two Bucket Wash way, the long bristles rinse clean when worked in the Rinse Water Bucket, and are then ready to go back into the Wash Water Bucket ready to clean the next pass or two.

☺️

Good idea Brian!

There's still, at least, one very small piece stuck in the outside seat track below the spiral rod the seat moves on. I absolutely couldn't get at it, I could hear it grinding every time I moved the seat forward and back. It'll eventually grind its way to dust.

Rubber Mat & Liner Cleaner, basically Tire & Rubber cleaner with a different color and scent. Once dry I'll then wipe them off with the Edgeless Utility Towel I'd used on the interior of the vehicle with Interior Detailer to even out the mats appearance. Don't spray the Interior Detailer directly onto the mats, they'll get slippery and unsafe.

I had the opportunity this past weekend to do a full detail on a previous customers new, to her, 2017 BMW X3 in Alpine White. I'd detailed her 2007 Acura MDX several years ago. Since then she's graduated college with a degree in Athletic Training, I believe, and bought this that need a little love. She'd been looking for one of these for several months and finally located one at a dealership in NJ at a price she was willing to pay. The vehicle had been a rental with 15,000 miles on it, she's now put on another 5,000+ on it before turning it over to me for the weekend. I picked the SUV up Thursday afternoon and brought it back to my place where the work would be done. It was raining Thursday, raining hard. We got over 5" of rain that day. Yup, I started in the rain. Put on a hat, my Bean Boots and a gore tex jacket and sucked it up. Broke out the pressure washer and using Adam's new Pressure Washer Swivel Extension Wand cleaned all the debris from the felt lined inner fenders and took care of the wheels and tires. The 20* bend and shorter length is nice to really get up in where I wanted. Eco All Purpose Cleaner on the fender liners, Wheel Cleaner on the wheels and scrubbed the gunk that was on the tires twice with Tire and Rubber Cleaner to get them thoroughly cleaned. The rain stopped overnight and the rest of the weekend looked like it was going to be great weather. At first light Saturday morning I was outside. Didn't want to bother the neighbors with the pressure washer yet, so I did a few of the more quiet activities first Chrome exhaust tips polished with Metal Polish #1 using a piece of 0000 Steal Wool Before: After: I removed the rubber floor mats and cleaned them I vacuumed the interior, and here's where things started to get weird. I was finding shattered pieced of tempered glass in the carpet, along the gas pedal on the hump side, under the front passenger's seat, between that seats bottom and back, and in the outside seat rail track of that seat. A quick look at all the vehicles glass... All windows have the BMW logo in them except the front passenger's side door glass The B-pillar on that door It appears this vehicle had been broken into at some point. I contacted the owner. She said before she purchased it she saw the vehicle had a clean Car Fax, and that she had noticed all the glass shards sometime after she's gotten it home. She contacted the dealer she'd bought it from and was told they knew nothing about it. Engine and engine bay tidied up Eco All Purpose Cleaner a Fender Brush and Trim & Lug Nut Brush. I dried it with the 4hp setting of my Master Blaster Revolution, shut the hood and let her run for five minutes to dry the rest of the water off. While it was running I sprayed Odor Neutralizer inside the vehicle and into the recirculating intake with the fan on high to take care of any odors. It was now late enough in the morning to get the pressure washer back out again. Adam's Snub Nose Pressure Washer Attachment and my Foam Cannon filled with 2oz of Strip Wash and warm water. I let that dwell for a few minutes then proceeded to give her a two bucket wash with another 2oz of Strip Wash in my wash bucket and used the Red Microfiber mitt. Rinsed her down well and hit everything below the glass, including the C-pillars with Iron Remover to decontaminate. Thoroughly rinsed the Iron Remover off the vehicle and clayed using the Clay Mitt and Detail Spray as the lubricant. Black specks all over the SUV. Worse on the rear panel and right quarter panel, but everywhere on the vehicle. The clay mitt wasn't getting it off. My guess? The window glass was replaced at a Body Shop and the vehicle was sitting uncovered too close to the paint booth and over-spray made its way to the BMW. There were black paint specks even in the jamb of the rear hatch. They must have had the hatch open when the over-spray made its way onto the Alpine White. Adam's Visco Elastic Clay was able to remove the over-spray, but it was a lot of work and about three hours of time I wasn't expecting! One last rinse from my Reverse Osmosis Spot Free system, and a quick blow dry with my Master Blaster Revolution, this time on the full 8hp setting.. Before: After: My right shoulder felt numb when I finished for the day from all the rubbing and pressure I had to exert to remove all of this. Before the day ended, the paint was thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated and I began polishing. I was able to finish the front and rear bumpers, and most everywhere else I had to use my Swirl Killer 12mm mini and Nano ibird. Lots of curves, contours and angles required the smaller machines. Heavy Correcting Compound and a Blue Microfiber Pad, that's it on this one. This vehicle is washed at drive through car washes. Most of the marks in the paint are straight line marks from the car wash brushes. The combo I used got 75% of them out and left the paint with a nice high luster. My GTO was pulled out onto the driveway for the next two nights and the BMW was put in the garage. First thing Sunday morning I put the plugs into the front bumper she'd provided me. NJ runs a front plate while PA doesn't. She didn't like the holes. Can't say I blame her. In & Out Spray to all the black Honey Comb up front too. Completely Polished, including the headlights. Also used my Swirl killer 15mm LT machine on the larger flatter panels, again Heavy Correcting Compound and a Blue Microfiber Pad. Paint protected with H2O Guard & Gloss, wheels protected with Ceramic Boost, tires dressed with Tire Shine, Glass Sealant on the windshield. I even hit the little rubber splash guard in front of the rear tires with VRT. My method for using the Guard & Gloss was one I watched Adam do at Corvettes at Carlisle the previous weekend. I'd never thought of it before. Go one panel at a time, spray the one panel with water from a water bottle, then spray the Guard & Gloss on that wet panel. Use a wet microfiber towel to even it out/level it off and a second to buff the panel dry, then onto the next. In the past I'd been pulling polished vehicles back out onto the driveway and wetting them with the hose again. Adam's method I was able to do while still in the garage. Sunday was done... Monday morning had three hours spent on the interior. Interior Detailer mostly, Leather & Interior cleaner on the soiled Steering Wheel In & Out Spray in the vents, inside of the windshield and back glass got Brilliant Glaze, all other glass was wiped clean with Adam's Glass Cleaner. My McCulloch 1385 Steamer was needed to get the crud from inside the cup holders, the tracks in the floor of the cargo area, and a few spots on the drivers compartment floor. The interior came as nice as the outside, I thought.

Nice! GLWS.. Gotta love the new Gen GTO's!

Nope, sorry, no sticker buckets.

Sorry, no Cars & Coffee Detail Spray I've requested the new 2.0 Version of the Ceramic Boost. We'll have to see what the shipping gang sends!

Thanks Paul, Can't wait to see you and Jennie again! And wow! The awning in your first pic was an earlier 12', we're now working out of a 20'er Go big or go home!

Adam's annual Customer Appreciation Party is set! 5:00pm-whenever Friday August 24th Look for the 20X40" tent set up, just outside the Fairgrounds, in John's front yard on Bryn Mawr Rd, right down from Gate 3. We have limited space, so get there early if you want a seat! There'll be 10 tables under the tent with seating for 80. I've also ordered an additional 20 chairs to minimize folks having to sit on the ground. DJ Matt will be there again this year spinning the tunes, with Pizza and Subs from Marcelo's Ristorante, and we should have plenty of cold beverages. All are welcome!

Hey gang, I'm going to lock this thread since I just started one for the 2018 Corvettes @ Carlisle.

Yep, we'll be there; Thursday August 23rd through Saturday August 25th! I just placed a huge order yesterday to be added to the extensive inventory we already have on hand, on the Fairgrounds! We'll be located on the midway under our 20' Detail Spray inflatable. (I've really got to take the time to get a good pic of our new logo'd inflatable!) and will be working out of our 30X20' awning attached to our 36' trailer filled with Adam's goodies. We'll have all sorts of Show Only Specials, Kits, and deep discounts on select items. Who knows, I may even have a new release product to showcase at this event! Oh, and as always, 10% off everything! Just in case 35X20' isn't enough, I've purchase an extra space on either side of the trailer to place 10X20' Canopies on, Increasing our total footprint to 70X30"! Last year we didn't have enough storage space to hold the required inventory and had to ship a lot of product. Kyle, one of my Carlisle Team Members, and I traveled to Morgantown, WV last Saturday to purchase a used 20' enclosed trailer to keep on the Fairgrounds to go along with the 36' we work out of and our 14' locker trailer. I hope to have enough for everyone! Adam will be joining us Thursday through Saturday and will be hosting the yearly Customer Appreciation Party outside the Fairgrounds Friday evening. One sad item of note; We will not be sponsoring the car wash area again this year. The Carlisle Events Management Team have decided the car wash area is not a place for a vendor and they, alone, will be supplying the area to be available for guests. My guess? There will only be hoses available, you'll have to bring all your own supplies to get your ride all cleaned up. If you'd like give them a call at 717 243-7855 to express your concerns or dissatisfaction please do so, and/or let them know when you arrive. It's awfully tough to bring your luggage and any necessary show supplies in a Vette, yet alone items required to wash your ride upon arrival.

Could what you're thinking is oxidation, actually be the trim itself? The Tire & Rubber Cleaner is going to remove all the dirt that's on the trim. If the trim has been exposed to the elements for a long period of time it may, itself, just be coming off as you scrub. Could there be dried Tire & Rubber Cleaner on the trim? Wipe some of the Coating Prep on the plastic and see what the appearance is then. To clean trim prior to the Trim Coating I'll spray it down with the Tire & Rubber Cleaner while I'm washing the vehicle and scrub with a brush. I'll use different brushes depending on the size of the trim; from a toothbrush to a Tire Scrub brush. Then wipe down with Car Shampoo as I wash the vehicle. After I've dried the vehicle I'll go over the trim with Coating Prep just before applying the Coating. Discoloration of old trim may not come completely back to its original black appearance. For that you'd need to first apply Adam's Black Trim Restorer prior to the Coating.