BRZN

I've got a few The first car I bought myself, a 1972 MG Midget Learned a lot of my mechanical skills on this thing LOL! My 1979 Jeep CJ-5 My Ford Torino 429 Cobra Jet, 1972 I think Lastly the Mini Bike my Dad and I built in the winter of 1970 with plans out of the back of Boys Life Magazine, with the horizontal shaft Briggs and Stratton motor off his lawn mower. After I rebuilt the motor in 9th grade Power Mechanics class

Thanks Rich. Most all the work was done inside the garage with the door shut and the heaters on. It was raining all day Monday, the day I applied the second coat of Patriot. I've got my small two car garage set up to hold just one car with plenty of room to get around a small to mid sized vehicle. I can work on cars inside all winter, and in all types of weather.

The gym's closed, so this was my workout! 💪

Winter Mods, well service and repairs done, I now needed to get my 2006 Pontiac GTO ready for the upcoming show season. Stuck at home, with nothing but time was my opportunity. I began Friday morning with a Rinseless Wash. 2oz of Rinseless Wash in the bucket with 2 gallons of water and nine Plush Waffle Microfiber Towels. I liberally spray one panel at a time with a mixture of 1oz Rinseless Wash and 15oz Reverse Osmosis filtered water, then wipe clean with one of the Plush Waffle Microfibers soaking in the bucket. To dry, I use the Mini Plush Drying Towels. This Garage Queen isn't driven much, no inclement weather, and lately only to shows and cruise ins. It is parked outside while I work on clients cars in the garage, and the paint and clear wrap material was feeling a bit rough with the baggie test. Next step Clay The rough feel to the paint and clear bra material wasn't bad, the Fine Grade Clay quickly took care of whatever was on the car's surface. Before I began to run any machines over the paint, I taped off all the trim that might get touched. There was minimal marring to the paint, very few RIDS, just slight straight line marks from the car being wiped down since its last polishing. Anymore I'll usually just polish sections that need it, not doing the entire car all at once, as the entire thing rarely needs it. This time I decided to hit all the paint using the Adam's SK Pro 15mm Machine, a 5.5" White Foam Pad and the new Polish. Where sections got tight, or to cut in panels I used the SK 12mm Mini, or my Rupes Nano with the same pad material and polish combo. Friday ended with just the two doors and the Side Skirts remaining to need polishing. I took care of those areas first thing Saturday morning. I believe the Brazen Orange Metallic GM paint came out looking fantastic! On to protection I had InShane Designs of Lemoyne, PA wrap the entire front clip last June. He also took care of a few other high impact areas; leading edges of the mirrors, and Side Skirts over the Rocker Panels, all four fender lips, and low behind the rear wheels. November of 2018 I had some paint and body work done by Andy Arter, owner of Kesse's Body Shop in Hanover, PA. He took care to the Hood, Side Skirts, and Rear Spoiler. All the Clear Wrap material and re-sprayed areas were wiped down with Surface Prep to remove any remaining Detail Spray from claying, or polish residue. These sections were Ceramic Coated with the 9H Ceramic Paint Coating including the UV Tracer. The tail lights and door handles had been painted years ago, they were Ceramic Coated too. I love how the UV Flashlight helps me find any thin sections, or spots I may have missed, allowing complete coverage! And yes, there were some thinner than I'd like sections and a few spots I'd missed. A second coat was laid down there. Saturday ended... Sunday morning... All the unwrapped areas of the car still wearing its original paint were protected with a layer of Brilliant Glaze topped with two coats of Patriot Paste Wax. I waited roughly 20 hours between coats of Patriot. Second coat applied Monday morning. I pulled the car out into the sun to look her over Sunday late morning. Hmm... High spots on the Clear Wrap material everywhere I'd laid the second coat. There were probably three to four hours between those two coats, and in the garage light everything looked just right. I laid down a coat of Brilliant Glaze to the entire hood and a few other high spots, let it haze over and wiped it off, no more high spots, nice. This was done 24 hours after I'd completed the Ceramic Coating. I'd often wondered if the Brilliant Glaze, used to level the Ceramic Coating, was actually removing the coating. I looked over the car again with the UV Flashlight, and the UV Tracer was still everywhere I'd applied the Brilliant Glaze. Here's the results Sunday afternoon after the first coat of Patriot, enjoy: Oh, in case you were curious, I'd hand polished the wheels last fall, off the car, with Metal Polish #2 and coated them with the Ceramic Spray Coating. Before I pulled the car out to take the above pictures I wiped them down with CS3.

Paint looks wet! Brilliant Glaze topped with Patriot. I think I'll do a more in depth write up of it's own. Done: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/37615-days-4-7-in-quarantine-productive/

As of Friday March 20th, all other Carlisle Events are still planned according to their original schedule with The Import & Performance Nationals on for May 15-17. On April 6th The Import & Performance Nationals was moved to August 14-16.

Brought the wife's car too

Spring Carlisle 2020 has been moved from April 22-26 to May 27-31 to June 17-20 My Carlisle Team and I will be there. There will be a minimum 10% discount off of everything, or I'll match whatever online sale will be going on during the Event! Keep an eye on this thread for updates. Not sure how I'm going to do this yet, may have a tent sale? I have some inventory remaining of all the products that have been updated since last fall. No matter what, they'll be made available at the Event at huge discounts! *These products gotta go! Undercarriage Spray Dressing 16oz and Gallons Interior Detailer (non-Microban) 16oz and Gallons Tire Shine 16oz and Gallons VRT 16oz and Gallons Glass Sealant Paint Sealant Sprayable Compound Heavy Correcting Compound Paint Correcting Polish Paint Finishing Polish Polishing Pads 4", 5.5" & 6.5" Orange, White, Red & Grey Foam Revive Paint Coating Kit (non-UV) Ceramic Infused Paste Wax Trim Coating Kits and 50ml Bottles (non-UV) Wheel Coating 50ml Bottles (non-UV) Wheel Coating Kits and 50ml Bottles (Original) Red Trunk Organizers 1 Porter Cable *I'm not going to hold anything for anyone, or sell from the forum. You've got to be at the event to buy.

The Ceramic Boost is a Sealant for the Ceramic Coatings (it can also be used as a stand alone sealant) and will help with the longevity of the coating. The Ceramic infused Liquid Wax will also help with the longevity of the coating by adding a more substantial product over the coating than Ceramic Boost alone. The Ceramic infused Liquid Wax, and the original Ceramic Paste Wax, were created for those of us that still want to be doing something to our vehicles after we've Ceramic Coated them. All will add hydrophobic properties to the finish, be it on top of a Ceramic Coating, or bare paint.

I tend to use the Meguiar's and 3M papers too. Also the 3M Abrasive Foam Blocks, they go to 5000 grit.

Brand really doesn’t matter much. I’ve found with any brand, from 2000 to 3000 grits they’re pretty much a one time use. They clog up rather quickly. I purchase from a Paint and Body supply store. Just make sure it’s a paper specifically for wet and dry use.

*I'll start off with a disclaimer: the owner of a body shop I had my '06 GTO to fall a year ago, told me he would not even attempt to sand on a late model vehicle's original clear coat, it's too thin, and not worth the risk. I've done it successfully on many vehicles, just lucky to this point? From experience, I'd say wet sanding would be needed to remove the scratch you can catch with a finger nail. Wet sanding is not for the weak of heart for sure. While sanding I'd knock down the other scratches too. Start with 1,500 grit Wet/Dry paper, using it wet and keeping the paint surface wet. Follow up with: 2,000 grit 2,500 grit and finish with 3,000 grit Sand it straight lines and alternate the grits from horizontal to vertical. This way you'll be able to see when you've removed the previous grits marks. Now, without a machine you're going to get a bit of a triceps, wrist and shoulder workout. Use Adam's New Scratch and Swirl Remover with an Orange Hex Grip Applicator Followed up with our New Hand Polish with a Blue Hex Grip Applicator. I played with this combination on a test panel Friday afternoon and appear to have been able to remove most all of the 1,500 grit equivalent scuff pad marks with a bit of effort. The white rectangular thing in the bottom of the first picture below is the white scuff pad I used to put in the marks. Below are the results after working the Scratch & Swirl Remover (by hand) twice and following up with the Hand Polish

Yes you can. Adam's Spray Wax is great being used as a drying agent, and will add more protection than the Detail Spray alone. Like Chis stated above, the Detail Spray is great for taking care of light dust that may settle on the vehicle sitting in the garage over time. I also use Detail Spray as a Clay lube and to keep my polishing pads moist and re-activate the polish within them.

The New Hand Polish may do the trick. If it doesn't, replacing the stripes may be your only option. The spots almost appear to be water marks. If water was on the stripes with certain minerals in it and the sun evaporated the water, the minerals damaged the vinyl. I own a 2012 Camaro that had matte vinyl stripes on it, I pulled them because I couldn't correct them.

I've used the Spray On Wax from Griot's. Not bad stuff, but I found it streaks some on glass. Adam's Spray Wax doesn't seem to streak like the Griot's product, and both can be used as a drying agent. Using the Adam's Detail Spray as a drying agent, then following up with the Griot's Spray On Wax is over kill, adds time to your car wash, and doesn't add much of anything to your cars gloss. Use up the Griot's and give Adam's Spray Wax a try, you won't be disappointed!

If the wheels are in fact cleared, you can treat them just like the paint on the vehicle. Claying them will not marr them using Detail Spray as your clay lube. If the clay doesn't remove the tar use a stronger solvent. Kerosene works well.

Are you sure if these wheels are uncoated/no clear, just raw?

The surface of the metal that makes up the wheel looks rough. The only way to get a mirror, polished surface would be to start by sanding. On raw aluminum I've found the foam of the Mother's Power ball/cone to be too aggressive, leaving scratches; that's what I believe I see in your after pictures. My Raw Billet Aluminum CCW's purchased used (started to polish the lip to see what I had to work with in this pic): Countless hours by me, and a professional working them too: The wheels are coated with Adam's Ceramic Spray Coating, they are wiped down with Ceramic Waterless Wash (once cooled down) after every drive, and hand polished at the end of every show season. Hand polishing is 1.5-2 hours per wheel once off the car. The Ceramic Spray Coating polishes off easily by hand with Adam's Metal Polishes.

I often get the Boost to streak, with no way to get the streaks off, I notice them much more on darker colors. I now dilute my Boost 50/50% with distilled water and lightly mist it onto a towel rather than spraying it onto the paint. I'll still buff the panel immediately after wiping it with the Boost misted towel. I found there was no way to remove the streaks other than polishing them off.

I'd rather used it when it's cold, right out of the refrigerator. When paste's cold and hard, I don't get as much in the applicator. When it's at room temp I'll get so much in the applicator I can squeeze product out of it by the time I've finished. That's quite a waste of product to be washing down the drain.

I use it primarily on leather interior surfaces only, and apply the Leather Dressing to the non leather areas inside the vehicle. Neither on carpet or fabric upholstery of course. You'd be okay to apply it to all no carpeted/upholstered surfaces inside the vehicle though. If it seems too glossy/greasy to you on the plastics, or has high spots after 24 hours or so even everything out with an Edgeless Utility Towel. It sounds like your pot of the Interior Paste had separated some, are you in a warm climate? Warmer temps make it incredibly soft, and tough for me to not put too much on the applicator. I store mine in the refrigerator to keep it from separating, and store the applicator cleaned and dried outside the pot.

Lots of variables. What type of wheels are you thinking of polishing. If it's semi wheels, aluminum? Stock OEM wheels? Painted/Clear Coated? Chrome? Raw Aluminum? Each would take different processes, with some overlap.

MFR is the laundry detergent for your Microfiber towels. There's no need to add anything else to the wash cycle. I'll put 2oz of it in the washer and let it do it's job. By adding anything else you risk not getting the towels completely rinsed of detergent. If there's detergent left in the towel you're more likely to have streaks on your paint. I do not wash my new microfiber towels when they arrive from headquarters. I just give them a couple/few good snaps to get any dust or lint off of them. When we're at Barrett-Jackson, Carlisle, Sema, Hot August Nights, etc we're using new towels on high dollar vehicles without washing them first.

I've found that mixing Ceramic Boost 50/50 with distilled water keeps it from streaking on me. I obviously use too much product. I'll also spray a light mist into the towel and wipe it across the finish, then buff with a clean dry single soft microfiber towel. Perhaps cutting the Ceramic Waterless Wash will work too.

When you rub the vehicle you're creating a static charge. Once the body is charged, it's going to attract dust. Perhaps a grounding strap that contacts the ground?