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You don't need to wash the car after polishing, any remaining water will mess with your LSP. The Surface Prep will remove any oils from the polish that remains on the paint surface. It will leave you perfectly clean paint, ready for your chosen LSP.

By myself in my garage, or on my driveway I charge $25.00/hour. Usually a $75.00 minimum. A scuff would depend on how bad the scuff is and what would be required to meet the customers expectations. Last fall I took care of a minor scuff on a guys Lexus that goes to the same gym as I do. The scuff removal for $25.00 turned into an entire detail job after he saw my results. His wife's car is scheduled for later this spring, and his for a maintenance job.

Me, I prefer the Microfiber Applicator to apply, and an Edgeless Utility Towel to Buff the residue off. There really is no right or wrong towel or applicator. Contrary to Chris above in the first reply, I like to use the Wash & Coat with every wash, and Ceramic Boost every three washes or so. Again, no steadfast right or wrong procedure. I do throw away the applicator and towel, just to be on the safe side.

If what Chris stated above doesn't work, try the Fine Grade Clay Bar. Just realize, any of these options will remove the Buttery Wax you've applied. The quicker you get at it, the easier it'll be to remove.

If you can see an even glow over the entire car with the flashlight, you've got it covered. Wash the car with Wash & Coat, dry using CS3 as a drying aid, I like to keep all my door jambs clean using Ceramic Waterless Wash after I dry the car, and wipe her down with Ceramic Boost every few washes. You should be set for years!

24 hours may be too long. The second coat may not adhere to the first coat and be almost, or completely wiped away. I believe it'd be best to use your flashlight to look over the car to identify thinner spots of the UV Tracer (close all the doors, and turn out the lights) and apply to those sections. My thought is you're closer to the bare paint in those sections, with a better chance for adhesion. One thing I do is lightly wipe the Ceramic Coating with one of the Micro Suede towels to feather it after about two minutes, wait another two minutes and buff off the residue with your towel of choice. I use the Edgeless Utility Towel to do my final removal as it's a very thin towel and doesn't remove too much of the remaining Ceramic Coating.

I'll not use the Interior Detailer for a week or more after the application of Leather Conditioner, Leather & Interior Dressing, or Interior Protection Paste. The Interior Detailer has some mild cleaners in it that will work on removing your Conditioner, Dressing, or Paste. If you're wanting the protection of the Interior Detailer's Microban, use it in place of the others. Interior Detailer also has some mild conditioners in it that will leave a nice satin sheen. I just took care of the wife's daily two weekends ago and finished the hard surfaces down with just the Interior Detailer. For her car I plan to save my Conditioner and Dressing until this pandemic ends. She's still working as a bank teller, and close to other people.

I do feel for you, these can be made to look like new again. What I put on your other post: "First off, Ceramic Coated wheels shouldn't need a product any stronger than Adam's Eco Wheel Cleaner. The Tire & Wheel Cleaner is some really aggressive stuff. Use it with caution! It's awesome for cleaning nasty tires, and does a pretty good job at cleaning wheels. As with all Adam's tire and wheel cleaners; APC, Eco APC, Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Wheel Cleaner, Eco Wheel Cleaner, and Tire & Wheel Cleaner use them on a wheel that's been rinsed of heavy debris with water, out of the sun, on a cool wheel, and DO NOT let the product dry on the tire or wheel. Once you believe you have them rinse thoroughly, rinse them again. Start your wash job with the wheels and tires first. By doing this you can spray them with clear water again as you clean the vehicle. Spray the Tire & Wheel Cleaner on the wet wheel first, and then on the tire. Start by cleaning the wheel, then move on to the wet tire, making sure the wheel is still damp with either water or more product. Once the tire is scrubbed clean, rinse both the wheel and tire. Make sure the lug holes have been rinsed clear of product. If any chemical remains in the lug holes it'll drip out, and down across the wheel and tire, possibly staining both. Metal Polish #'s 1 & 2 should clean up your wheels." * Edit I just thought of something. If those wheels have been Ceramic Coated correctly; cleaned, Surface Prep, Ceramic Wheel Coating, and allowed to cure properly, those stains may very well be on the coating, not on the wheel itself. Brilliant Glaze may get the stains off, or try Adam's new Hand Polish first. The Metal Polishes will most likely remove the Ceramic Coating. You'll know if the coating's gone if your applicator or towel turn black. These raw billet aluminum wheels were cleaned with Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner last fall. The picture is just before I began to give them their yearly polishing. The products work well when the correct amount of care and caution is taken. Remember the original Deep Wheel Cleaner? The red stuff? The blue Wheel Cleaner we have now is not as strong as the red stuff. Please read the label instructs and follow them to the letter, so more chemicals, like the Tire & Wheel Cleaner don't have to be diluted.

First off, on Ceramic Coated wheels you shouldn't need a product any stronger than Eco Wheel Cleaner on them. The Tire & Wheel Cleaner is some really aggressive stuff. Use it with caution! It's awesome for cleaning nasty tires, and does a pretty good job at cleaning wheels. As with all Adam's tire and wheel cleaners; APC, Eco APC, Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Wheel Cleaner, Eco Wheel Cleaner, and Tire & Wheel Cleaner use them on a wheel that's been rinsed of heavy debris with water, out of the sun, on a cool wheel, and DO NOT let the product dry on the tire or wheel. Once you believe you have them rinse thoroughly, rinse them again. Start your wash job with the wheels and tires first. By doing this you can spray them with clear water again as you clean the vehicle. Spray the Tire & Wheel Cleaner on the wet wheel first, and then on the tire. Start by cleaning the wheel, then move on to the wet tire, making sure the wheel is still damp with either water or more product. Once the tire is scrubbed clean, rinse both the wheel and tire. Make sure the lug holes have been rinsed clear of product. If any chemical remains in the lug holes it'll drip out, and down across the wheel and tire, possibly staining both. Metal Polish #'s 1 & 2 should clean up your wheels.

Adam makes Metal Polishes, not a specific chrome polish. We have Metal Polish #1 which is the most aggressive, used to remove light scratches, rust trails and oxidation. Metal Polish #2 used as a final step to give the most pop, depth, and clarity to the metal. By the way, chrome is metal. Adam's metal polishes work on all types of metal, as long as it's smooth: Stainless Steel Raw Aluminum Pot Metal Chrome

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Here's how I think of the two: Ceramic Boost is a Sealant for a Ceramic Coating. It'll help maintain the longevity of the coating and add the hydrophobic properties back to the coating like they were when it was first applied. CS3; Clean, Shine, Protect, Ceramic Spray (says so right on the label). As a drying aid it helps to remove any dirt that was missed during the wash, minimizing the chance of any marring. It adds back to the existing coating to maintain its longevity, also adding the hydrophobic properties back to the surface. The CS3, seems to me, to add more gloss and slickness to the paint than the Ceramic Boost does. Ceramic Boost I use after every few washes. CS3 I'll use after every wash as a drying aid or for a nice touch up.

Yes you can. Lightly mist the CS3, don't go crazy with it or it may streak. A little goes a long way!

Guys, Its the Cyclo Shine Pro Wheel Detailing Stand from Source Garage. It's a nice tool for doing wheels, with both the front and rear being accessible. Lifting of the tire/wheel is minimal if its used on the ground, but can also be set up on a table or bench. A couple things to be aware of with it; the roller brake is useless, and doesn't work at all. Don't waste your time installing it, it just ends up getting in the way. Second; pay attention as the tire/wheel assembly is rotated on the stand. Even though the top is tilted back slightly, it's not enough to keep the tire/wheel from working its way off the from of the lower rollers possibly damaging the face of the wheel it it falls off.

With quite a bit of time on my hands right now I took care of my wife's Daily, a 2012 1LT Camaro in Ashen Gray Metallic. The Tire/Wheel swap is usually done after April 15, and the detail over Memorial Day weekend, but, well, I'm bored and now a bit ahead. Broke out the Quick Jack, and removed the winter tire/wheel set up I used my MTM Undercarriage Cleaning Tool, connected to my Pressure Washer to blast all the winter from under the car. Now, with the wheels off, it gave me a great opportunity to clean the inner fender wells and suspension. I lowered the car a couple years ago with a set of Pfadt Lowering Springs and it's now hard to get in the wheel wells with a brush with the Tires/Wheels on. Tire & Rubber Cleaner in a Foaming IK Sprayer, a couple different brushes and they came out about as good as new. I dried everything with my Master Blaster Revolution, prepped with Surface Prep and applied a nice coat of Ceramic Spray Coating to help keep things clean. Cleaned the engine bay; All Purpose Cleaner, the Pressure Washer, and the Master Blaster Summer Tire/Wheel set up back on Winter Tire/Wheels scrubbed clean, Tire Armor on the Rubber and Ceramic Spray Coating over top the previously applied Ceramic Wheel Coating. 24 hours later Ceramic Boost on the wheels, and they're now stacked in the basement until next winter. The Weather Tech floor mats were scrubbed with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, allowed to dry, then prepped and hit with Ceramic Spray Coating and Ceramic Boost to come back looking like new. On to the car... Summer Tire/Wheel set up on and dropped her off the Quick Jack Mega Foam, Foam Cannon and my Pressure Washer A nice two bucket wash with Car Shampoo using the Gray Microfiber Wash Mitt Blow Dry with my Master Blaster, followed with a wipe down with Waterless Wash. Did a baggie test, she needed Clayed. I had a small spot of rust in the left rear wheel arch taken care of in January, and evidently there was over-spray on the paint. The car has Adam's 9H Ceramic Paint Coating with the UV Tracer on it, but the fine paint dust still had stuck. Fine Grade Clay quickly took care of what was on the paint. A Rinseless Wash mixed as Waterless Wash removed the Detail Spray residue from claying. I polished the left rear quarter panel, A Pillar, and C Pillar where the paint work had been done. I also had to re-polish the trunk lid. It appeared the body guy had sat something on the trunk that left some light scratches. There was also a light scuff on the right rear wheel arch that needed removed. Tools: SK 15mm Pro and SK Mini Microfiber Pads Blue Foam Pads White Foam Pads Compound Polish LSP, I'm trying something different, a bit of various product comparisons. Left Rear Quarter Panel, A Pillar, C Pillar, Trunk Lid, Rear Spoiler, Side Mirrors, spot on the Right Rear Wheel Arch I repaired, and the Flat Horizontal piece of the front bumper below the headlights got the new Ceramic Coating Wax. The Roof, Right Side A Pillar, C Pillar and Flat surface of the Right Rear Quarter Panel got the Liquid Ceramic Wax. The Hood, Tops of the Front Fenders, and Top of the Front Bumper got the original Version 1 of the Ceramic Paste Wax. All the rest of the vehicle was left alone, with just the Ceramic Paint Coating applied last Fall. The car was wiped down with CS3 after I pulled it out of the garage, and the wheels wiped down with Matte Detailer. The Tires have a few coats of Tire Armor on them I'd applied last Fall after I pulled them for winter storage. The Stainless Steel exhaust Tips were taken care of with Metal Polish #2 The Interior was completely Detailed too. I wiped all hard surfaces down with the Eucalyptus Mint Interior Detailer with Microban. The Clean Cotton Odor Neutralizer was sprayed through the HVAC system and the New Fabric Protector was applied to the cloth seats.

You really won't get much, if any benefit using the Spray Wax on top of the Buttery or Americana right after their applications, I'd skip that.

On really hammered paint I'll sometimes start with my rotary, but always finish with a DA. I'll use a Lake Country Yellow pad, or their Purple wool foam blend pad. I also have quite a variety of various companies compounds and polishes to use with those pads, along with those offered by Adam's. Once you use the rotary on a dark colored vehicle pull it out into bright sun, there are swirl marks, and holograms; it's the nature of the machine. If you're really good with a rotary they can be minimal. but they're there. My usual go to anymore for really hammered paint is the FLEX XC-3401, it's a direct drive DA. It's pretty much a rotary that also serves as a DA.

I'd suggest you don't use the HGG on top of the Buttery as you have above, Use Spray Wax instead. The One Step Polish isn't applied, it's worked with a machine. It can be used as a Finishing Polish on lighter colored vehicles, you may need to experiment with different pads to achieve your desired result. Or, you'd use the One Step Polish with the wool/microfiber blend pad then complete your polishing with a second step using the Polish and white foam pad if needed. If using the synthetics I stick to just the synthetics. After polishing I'll apply the Paint Sealant, then maintain with HGG. I see no need to put the HGG on top of the Paint Sealant right away, it needs a bit of time to properly cure anyways. I'll also not use the Brilliant Glaze with the Paint Sealant if I've just polished the paint, there's no real benefit. For maintenance HGG can be used after every few washes. *Just prior to winter I'll make an exception to the above; To add some longevity to the Paint Sealant I'll top it with a layer, or two of Americana. My thought is the Americana has to degrade before the Paint Sealant will begin to degrade, this seems to get me (on my daily's) from November to April with protection still on the paint. With natural Carnaubas, I'll stick to carnaubas; one coat of Brilliant Glaze, then two layers of a natural carnauba (Buttery, Americana, or Patriot), and call it good. For maintenance I'll use Spray Wax as a drying aid. The Surface Prep can still be used after your polish step, prior to the application of Paint Sealant or Brilliant Glaze to remove any polish reside, or oils from the paint allowing those next products to stick better to the paint. Revive, or the new Hand Polish which is Revive's replacement are designed for hand use. Be aware the carnauba waxes will last only a couple/few months at best, while the synthetics should last six + months.

I'll add several more to the On Line Car Show. These are vehicles I've detailed since last fall.

Carlisle Events has informed me that the May 15 - 17 Import & Performance Nationals has been rescheduled to August 14 - 16.

Yes

Don't overlook what you can accomplish with Metal Polish #1 followed up with Metal Polish #2 then simply topped with just Brilliant Glaze! 51 year old bumpers on this 76,000 mile 1969 Z/28 The Metal Polishes were worked with blue foam pads using the SK Mini Before and after on the wheels, same process as above:

The Scratch & Swirl Remover was designed to be used by hand. I scuffed my test panel with a white scuff pad Corrected it by hand with the Scratch & Swirl Remover followed up with the new Hand Polish Not too bad. A machine would have done a better job, and done it quicker, however I was pretty impressed for what I was able to accomplish.

I'll jump in here with my .02, too. Maintain with the CS3, Ceramic Waterless Wash, Ceramic Boost and use the Wash & Coat as your Car Shampoo when washing the vehicle. After a wash I'll clean all the jambs, by misting with Ceramic Waterless Wash and wiping down with either a Waterless Wash, or Edgeless Utility Towel. At about every six month interval do the baggie test after a good wash and dry to feel for embedded contaminants. If they're there, clay is in order. I use Adam's Fine Grade clay on vehicles that are ceramic coated, and properly maintained irregardless of color. Don't skimp on the Detail Spray used as your clay lube. With the right claying interval (not much embedded surface contaminants), the right amount of lubrication, and the Fine Grade clay you shouldn't cause any marring. If there is some marring, it should just be in limited locations, not the entire vehicle. Polish the marred areas and apply the Ceramic Spry Coating to this location.

Is this the one you've received? https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramic-paste-wax/products/adam-s-ceramic-paste-wax If so, this is an upgrade to the Ceramic Paste Wax we'd been selling and was released sometime around Black Friday. This is actually a Ceramic Coating in a Paste Wax form. Gently smell it, and I do mean gently! If it has a very strong odor it's the new version. I'd used the previous version and it lasts incredibly long, this new one, with proper maintenance, will last even longer. Longevity will depend on all sorts of factors; garaged? Maintained properly? Washed regularly? Your geographic location? etc...As stated above, wipe the paint down with Surface Prep prior to application, and there's no need for any other Brilliant Glaze, Wax, Sealant, or Guard & Gloss.