stalebreadjr

When doing a complete detailing on a very large vehicle, do it over two days. Your body will thank you and trust me it will look better when finished.
when you get tired you will get sloppy and start to cut corners just so you can finish. If you know you are going to take two days it turns out much better.
 
For goodness sakes watch the video's. He made them for all of us that think we know how to detail😁

Nice job on the SS., However, I don't understand this October and getting ready for that thing called winter?  Thankfully Adam's gave us two products for those type of events, Rinseless Wash and Waterless Wash.  
 
Being from upstate NY originally, near buffalo, I sure know how the cold and snow can hit.  I still remember taking the kids out for Halloween and we got 6 inches of snow that evening. I do not miss being up north at all.  I also have no doubt that it is painful for you to have to put such a beautiful car into hibernation for a few months.

So what does one do detail wise on an October Friday you have off with warm temperatures but it’s pouring rain outside?  
 
I know!  
 
You get your car ready for winter with an Adam’s winter prep detail.
 
 
I started with a rinseless wash using Adams rinseless wash. I then followed up with Visco clay bar using Adams Pumpkin Spice Detail Spray as a clay lube. It’s a couple years old and I figured I’d use it before it went bad on me plus my wife loved the smell of the garage while grabbing fire wood and checking on my progress.
 
After clay bar I used the Swirl Killer 21 and Adam‘s Finishing Polish making the SS paint clean and swirl free.  I did however find a couple of spots where I had to use the PC with a 3 inch MF compounding pad followed by a 3 inch MF finishing pad to remove some junk left behind careless passers by to the SS.  I love that PC and will probably never get rid of it.
 
I then used Adams Surface Prep to get the paint squeaky clean and ready for coating.  The paint was then coated using Adams Paint Coating and allowed to sit overnight before i applied Adam’s Ceramic Boost to the paint coating today.   I found the coating very easy to use.  My garage was in the low to mid 60’s. Flashing was easy to see as my garage is well lit and wipe down was a breeze.  The Surface Prep  while easy to use does not have a pleasant smell.  Additionally,  I applied Paint Coating to the exhaust tips. I did this when I first got the car two years ago. It makes clean up a breeze, as in wipe down with rinseless wash or car shampoo and I’m back to CLEAN.
 
Today,  the tires got Adams Tire Shine and all glass, inside and out,  was cleaned with Adams glass cleaner. Interior got a quick wipe down with Adam’s Interior Detailer. The trunk was emptied of my fishing gear (6 rods, tackle box, tackle backpack, fanny pack plus assorted odds and ends.) I gave it a quick vacuum then three good sprays of Adam’s Pineapple Orchid Odor Neutralizer. All four mud flaps got Adam’s Tire Shine as well then out in the sun for some pics.

 
Like a mirror...but squiggly.
 
 



 

I use three different applicators with Brilliant Glaze according to what I'm doing with it.
For the inside of the windshield, I prefer the Interior Dressing Applicator: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-premium-interior-dressing-applicators
For the body of the vehicle, I like the Patriots Wax applicator, it is so much easier to grip: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-blue-red-patriot-applicator
For the odd places, somewhat rough surfaces, the microfiber applicator: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-microfiber-applicator-pads-2-pack
 
The Interior Dressing Applicator works nice for getting along the edge of the windshield and I do that last by putting the BG on the edge and going around the windshield.  It also washes easily to keep it clean and reusable.  Also, I've found it easier to use a spray nozzle in the BG and spray it on the applicator, this seems to get it more even compared to using the squirt nozzle.  That last bit of info was originally passed to me by @Rich

You could lay a towel over the HUD while you wipe on the BG, but it is probably not necessary.  I put BG on the applicator and wipe the glass, then buff it off - you just smear it around, but in a technical, detailery kind of way. 
BG is a thin liquid, between DS and VRT, and needs to be shaken up often.

Thanks Ray!  I enjoyed documenting it and hope that it was a good read.  Looking forward to the exterior now!
 thanks....who knows....there may be an Adam's Brand Floor Mat Rack spawn out of this LOL!

Thanks Ray!  I enjoyed documenting it and hope that it was a good read.  Looking forward to the exterior now!
 thanks....who knows....there may be an Adam's Brand Floor Mat Rack spawn out of this LOL!

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

@Nickfire20  You were right!!!
 
I used a whole bottle of Iron Remover on the car and there was more than I imagined.
 
This is the Roof:
 
 
This is the Hood:

 
This is the Trunk:

 
I had a piece of a bottle of Wheel Cleaner and just enough for all four wheels.
Then I rinsed and dried the entire car.
I then used the Adam's White Fine Grade Clay Bar with DS and clayed the complete car. Crap, I just remembered I forgot to clay the wheels. Maybe next time.
I put maybe 3 ounces of Car Shampoo and 3 ounces of Eco All Purpose Cleaner in the Foam Cannon and the Wash Bucket. 
I foamed the entire car, there was a lot of foam. And I used the mit and washed the entire car and then rinsed with the power washer.
I used the leaf blower I purchased for the sole purpose of drying the car and dried the car. There wasn't enough left to towel dry but I drug it over everything anyway. 
It is now parked in the garage while this old man rests and it cools down as the sun was hitting the trunk and back window.
 
Still left to do:
Apply the Surface Prep spray.
Apply the Ceramic Spray Coating. and let it cure overnight.
Get up in the morning and apply the Ceramic Boost and Tire Shine. 
 
I have to say, it looks pretty good so far.
 
Here is a picture of the hood during the rinse after washing. Not much beading of water on the hood:

 

Ray S,  my white looks pretty darn good too!  

Hi All,
I purchased a new Toyota Avalon Hybrid over the weekend. It is unfortunately another white car. I can't seem to get away from having a white car.
 
Anyway, I want to use the Ceramic Spray Coating on the car but figured I better decontaminate first. Do I need to use Iron Remover if I'm going to Clay Bar the car? I can't see any brown spots but that doesn't mean they aren't there. I watched Adam's video for the Iron Remover and he mentioned it is not a replacement for Clay Bar. But I'm not sure if I need to use both.
 
Next question is what type of Clay Bar should I use? Being a new 2020 I figure the "Fine Grade" clay will suffice. I am also looking at the "Visco Clay Bar" but I don't really understand the difference. Which should I use? Since I am going to use Ceramic Spray, what should I use to lubricate the Clay Bar? I have Detail Spray but since I'll be applying Ceramic I was thinking not to use Detail Spray. But then I'm thinking since I'll be using the Ceramic Surface Prep, that should take care of the residue from the Detail Spray, right?
 
Then the process would be to wash, dry, apply Surface Prep, apply Ceramic Spray Coating. Should I use Ceramic Boost after applying the Ceramic Spray or is that not necessary at this point? I already have a bunch of the Ceramic Waterless I'll be using routinely with the Boost every 4-6 weeks.
 
So, do I need to use Iron Remover? Which Clay Bar should I use? Am I correct about the Detail Spray residue being removed by Surface Prep?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
 

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

Thanks Donald!  I got the dilution ratio from that embedded video.  I have seen some different ratios used throughout the forum so I'm sure you get different results based on what you like.  Glad my post can help someone!

So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now.  Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials.  I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion.  Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive.  @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating.  Thanks all!
 
For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail.  I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through)
 
I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan.
 
Here is what I used:
Engine Bay:
Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier  )  
As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology.  I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray.  So why not start here and work outward.  Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating.
 
I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay.  I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components.  I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing.  I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off.  I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC.  Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff.  Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC.  I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could.  It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay.  From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood.  I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below).  Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted.  In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there.  Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay.
 


 
So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle.  Below are the materials that I used:
Interior:
Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck.  I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean.  I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable.  I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages.
 
So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay.  In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC.  Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down.  So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that.  A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush.  Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. 
Video:
I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck.  I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down.  So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle.  I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best.  I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray.  Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck.  I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great.  I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck.  It also worked very well.  I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface.  After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck.  This is where having the headrest removed also helped.  I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces.  I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle.  Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats.  I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry.  It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk".  Here are some pics!
BEFORE


 
 
All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself.  I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon.  Thanks again y'all!

Here is a pic showing the advantage of using a foam cannon to get the shampoo on the truck and save time. I started with a good pressure washer rinse and then foamed it with the MTM Foam Cannon using three ounces of Adam's Car Wash Shampoo and a half ounce of Rinseless Wash. I still use a bucket of clean water to rinse out the wash pad between panels.

I am still experimenting with the best foaming solution concentration to get the thickest foam with better hang-time with my pressure washer. For this pic, I was using DI water through the foam cannon. One downside to the quality of the sealant and wax on the truck is that the foam just slips right off!
 


Also a few pics during a recent rain storm showing the excellent beading.
 

 

Beautiful Cadillac.  I did my black Equinox with the Ceramic Spray Coating and it looks so deep and wet.  I'm no pro, and I'm 73 years old, so if this old man can do it, so can you. Welcome to the forum David!  
 
 

I gotcha, Adam’s Ceramic Spray coating is really awesome and easy, lasts 6-8 months.  He also has  boost and a paste wax which are phenomenal products adding gloss and longevity.
 
This picture is my old Tahoe after a wash and a layer of Brilliant Glaze,  BG doesn’t offer any protection but I use to use it all the time to make it look like wet paint.  (This was NOT coated)

2014 Cadillac CTS4 2.0T Luxury edition - black. 18" factory rims. Massachusetts. I have what I guess I would call hobby level + experience with detailing  - although if you asked my wife she would say I spend too much time cleaning my car. I took a body shop class after work number of years ago to refinish my 1987 Chevy Caprice - which I sold. I always have questions when I am looking at how to clean this or tha t and I decided this might be a great resource.

Better late than never... (pic was before I applied products to it 😅)
 
 

She’s no pavement princess which makes it very hard to keep shiny but I’m trying my best. It’s a hard internal struggle to not want to hit every mud pit I see 😂

Welcome Mitch.   I'm regularly in the Ridge Manor, Dade City area.   The Sierra looks great and based on the color,  I am tagging one of the forum moderators, @falcaineer who absolutely rocks when it comes to white vehicles and taught me a whole lot about Adam's products over the last couple of years.

Dropping in to say Hi!  Recently bought a new vehicle and with the cost, gained a renewed interest in detailing to take care of it.  Happy with the products I’ve used so far, with more on the way!